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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/^^otes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


n 
n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


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Bound  with  other  matt^rial/ 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  fiimdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


The 
to  th 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
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modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolorees,  tachet6es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


The 
post 
oiti 
fitml 


Orig 
begi 
the  I 
sion 
othe 
first 
sion 
or  ill 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Qualit6  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


The 
shall 
TINl 
whic 

Map 
diffe 
entir 
begi 
righl 
requ 
metl 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellembnt 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ire 

ddtails 
es  du 
modifier 
ler  une 
filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  hss  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
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conformity  avec  ies  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


6es 


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first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  fiimds  en  cummen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
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premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaTtra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN' . 


re 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  3tre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciichd,  il  est  fiim6  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


/  errata 
id  to 

nt 

ie  pelure, 

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1 

2 

3 

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THE 


TRAVELLER'S    GUIDE 


THROUGH    THE 


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MIDDLE  AND  NORTHERN  STATES, 


AND    THE 


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1 


PROVINCES  OF  CANADA. 


*««■ 


t 


BY   O.    M.    DAVISON. 


EIGHTH   IlDITIOir. 


Rtfjean 
Otiviar 

Ex-UM 


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Sariitoga  Sprlngat 


1PUBLI8HED  BY  G.  M.  DAVISON  ;    AND  BY  S.  S.  &  W,  WOOD^ 

NE W. Y  ORK. 


18  40. 


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^^rrt^<- ia:^4> -^r^-^ 


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Entered  according  to  the  act  of  Congress,  in  tho  year 
1840,  bv  G.  M.  Davison,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the 
District  Court  of  the  Northern  District  of  New-York. 


'  # 


y 


-#   4' 


INDEX. 


% 


Introduction, , 


Page^ 
..     15 


From  All  frusta^  Gen.  to  Chnrhstoriy  S.  C* 

AM;;iista — Hamburirh, 19 

From  Savannah  to  Charleston. 

.Sfivannali, 20 

Stcainhoat  rout"-; — lablc  of  diHlanccB, 21 

Land  route — table  of  distances, id 

Charleston 22 

Sullivan's  Island, , 23 

From  Charleston  to  New-York. 

Route  by  water — table  of  distances, ,  25 

Frojn  Charleston  to  WeUlon,  N.  C. 

Steamboat  and  rail  road  route, 25 

Wilmington,  N.  C. id 

From  Wcldon,  via  Norfolk^  to  Washington  City, 

Railroad  and  steamboat  route, 26 

Portsmouth — Norfolk — Jamestown, id 

Mount  Vernon, 28 

Alexandria, 29 

From  Wcldon,  via  Richmond^  to  Washington  City. 

Fctersbur^h, « .  30 

Richmond — Manchester — Fredericksburgh, • .  31 

Washington  City, 32 

Georgetown — Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal, 38 


i 


INDEX. 


« 


From  Washington  to  the  Virginia  Springs. 

Tabic  of  distances, , 40 

Monticcl'r) — Warm  S;)rinnra, 41 

White  Sulphur  Sprinjrs, 42 

From  Washington  to  Baltimore. 

Rail  road, 42 

Baltiiuorc, id 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  road 45 

Baltimore  and  Susquchaniiah  rail  road, 46 

From  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia. 

Route  by  way  of  Frenchtown   and  New-Castle — 

North  Point, 4S 

Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal, 49 

Frenchtown  and  Ncw-Castlc  rail  road, *  id 

Ncw-Castlc,    50 

Route  by  way  of  Havre  dc  Grace  and  Wilmington,  id 

Havre  de  Grace, id 

Elkton — Wilmington, 51 

Philadelphia, 52 

Intcrnul  Improvements  in  Pennsylvania, 51) 

From  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg. 

Rail  road  and  canal  route, 62 

Columbia  rail  road, 63 

Lancaster — Harrisburgh, 64 

Pennsylvania  canal, 65 

Lcwiston — passage  across  the  Alleghany  Mountains  r»6 

Thence  to  Pittsburg, 67 

Rail  road  and  stage  route  to  Pittsburg, 68 

Pitt  sburg, id 

Coal  mines, •..«..«  69 

From  Philadelphia  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal  Mines. 

Gcrmantown,  Norristown  and  Reading  rail  road,. . ,  72 

Germantown — Norristown — Pottetowri — Hamburgh  73 

Mount  Carbon, 74 

Rail  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines, id 


P 


ft  t 


40 
41 
42 


42 

id 
45 
46 


4S 
49 
id 
50 
id 
id 
51 
52 
51) 


62 
63 
64 
65 

ne 

67 
68 
id 
69 


72 
73 

74 
id 


i 


* : 


INDF.X.  .V 

Rdiitc  to  (he  Lfihiffh  Coal  Mine*. 

Maiich  Chunk 76 

Maucli  Chunk  rail  road, 77 

lichiirii  river, id 

The  Landinir — Ti'^ihij^rhton, 78 

lit'hi^h  Water  C>  ip, id 

lictlilclieni, 79 

Easton, id 

Morris    Canal — Delaware     Wind    Gaj> — Delaware 

Waterl^ap 80 

jFVom  Easton  to  Srhnoh/a  Mountain,  and  thence  to 

New-York. 

Tabic  of  distances — Schooly's  Mountain, 81 

From  Philadelphia  to  New-YorJc. 

Route  b}'  the  Camden  ai»J  Anihoy  rail  road, 81 

Burliufrton — Bristol — Bordentown, 82 

Camden  and  Ainboy  rail  road, id 

Route  by  way  of  Trenton  and  Newark, 83 

Diiladelphia  and  Trenton  rail  road, id 

Bristol— Trenton, 84 

New-Brunswick — Raliwa) — Eli/abethtown — New- 
ark,   85 

Jersey  City — New- York, 86 

Excursions, , 9G 

Governor's,  Bcdlow's  and  Staten  Island, 97 

Patcrson — Hoboken — Lonjf  Branch, id 

Haricm  rail  road — Croton  Aqueduct — Hurl  Gate,.,  98 

Brooklyn, 99 

Brooklyn,  Jamaica  and  Long  Island  rail  road, 100 

Rockaway, id 

From  New.York  to  Albany. 

Table  of  distances, 101 

Wecbawken — Lunatic    Asylum — Palisadocs — Fort 

Lee 1 102 

Fort  Washington — Fhilipsburgh — Tappan,  Bay- — 

Tarrytown, V 103 

a2 


m^'- 


i 


'I 

VI  IMDKX. 

SIcopy  Hollow — HarvrrHtraw  Hay — The  Higlilands,  104 

Cfildwoll'B  liindinjr — Ilorso  Race, 105 

Woat  Point, I  (XJ 

Pollopol  iHland— New. Windsor, 108 

Nowl)tirjrh, 109 

Milton — roiJirlik'M'psic, 110 

Hydo  TuiK  Lanf'injr— Cafskill, Ill 

1>olawar(>  and  lludHoit  Cunal, id 

F,nc  ( )rchard, 112 

Athens — Hudson, 114 

(^ix'sackic  Landinjr 1 1  f) 

Albany, 1 10 

Exriirsinn  to  S(irn1o<rn  Springs. 

Route  by  wav  of  Sclu'ncctady, Ill) 

M.)liawk  and  Hudson  nil  road, id 

Uui'l's   Farm — Schrnoctady 120 

Saratoga  and  Schcn;T-tady  rail  road, , 121 

Ballslon  liake, id 

Jlallsfon  ^  ,.a, 122 

Router  by  way  of  Troy  to  Saratoga  Springs, 125 

Gen.  Van  Renssflacr's  Mansion, id 

Macadanv/cd  road, id 

U.  S.  Arsenal— West  Troy, 126 

Troy 127 

Rentisclarr  and  Saratoga  rail  road, 129 

Van  Sfhaick's  Island — Lansingburgb — Waterford,.  130 

Cohoes  i'alls — The  J  unction, 131 

Mcchanicsvillc — Saratoga  Springs, 132 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  the  Battle  Ground. 

Saratoga  Lake, 144 

Bemus' Heiohts, 145 

Freeman's  Farm, 1 46 

Smith  Houuc — Schuylerville,  147 

Fort  Edward, 148 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George. 

Sandy  Hill— Glen's  Falls, 149 

Jessup's  Falls— Hadley  Falls, ISO 


J 


^ 


INDEX.  VII 

Blood V  Pond — Caldwell — Lake  <  icorgc, J  51 

Ftjrt  U'llliuiii  Henry, .,  153 

Pay^a^o  ot  Lake  Geor^re, 1 55 

Ticundcro^ra, 157 

EXCUUSION    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 
BY   RAIL  ROAI)  ANH  ,-;TAGK. 

From  Saratoga  Springn  to  Buffalo. 

Remarks L5a 

Table  of  diHtances, 11)1 

U rica  and  Schenectady  rad  road, ?.i 

Ainstirdani, I ''.I 

Fondi — Johnstown \i\\ 

Palatine!  Hridj^e — Fort  Plain — Li:tle  Falls, H)5 

Hctk  inicr, 168 

TJticn, 160 

Trentoniall- 170 

IJtica  and  Syracuse  rail  r.ad, 174 

Whitcsbn-o' — Oriskany — Rome, id 

Fort  Stanwix, , 175 

Syracuse — Salina, 176 

Auburn  and  Syracuse  railroad — Aiiburn, 178 

Cayujra — Seneca  Falls, 181 

Waterloo — Geneva — G  ncva   Lake, 1^3 

Canandaitrua, 184 

E.  &   \V.    Bloonifield — Luna — East   Avon — Avon 

Spring, 185 

Calfcdonia — Lcroy, 186 

Batavia — Batavia  to  Buffalo, ^ 187 

ERIE    CANAL. 

Description  of, 188 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Buffalo^  by  raiLraad  and 

canal. 

Table  of  distances, 190 

Gtddes — Nine  Mile  Creek — Canton — Jordan, 191 

Weed's  Port — Centre  Port — Port  Byron, id 

Lake  Port—Clyde— Palmyra, 192 


M    « 


"m 


i 

1  ■  ^ 


I 


VIII  INDEX. 

Fullom's  Basin — Pittsford — Rochester, 193 

Toncwanda  rail  road — Ridge  Road, 196 

Carthage 197 

Brockport — Hollcy — Albion, 198 

Medina — Gasport — Lockport, , 199 

Fro7n  Saratoga  Springs  to  Buffalo^  by  rail  road,  canal 

and  steamboat. 

Tabic  of  distances — Fulton — Oswego, 201 

Lake  Ontario 203 

Great  Sodus  Bay — Charlotte — Fort  Niagara, 204 

Fort  George — Youngstown — Lewiston — Queenston,  205 

Battle  of  Queenston, id 

Brock's  Monument, 206 

Ridge  Road, 207 

Devirh  Hole— Whirlpool— Sulphur  Spring, 208 

Niagara  Falls, 209 

Welland  Canal — Burning  Spring, 216 

Bridgcwatcr,  or  Lundy's  Lane, 217 

Chippewa — Chippewa  Battle  Ground, 218 

Navy  Island — Black  Rock — Waterloo — Fort  Erie,.  220 

Buffalo, 221 

From  Bvjalo  to  Detroit. 

Tabic  of  distances — Dunkirk — Van  Burcn — Eric, .  225 

Ashtabula— Cleveland, 226 

Ohio  and  Erie  Canal, 227 

Sandusky — Amhcrstburgh, 223 

Detroit,  '. 229 

St.  Joseph, 230 

From  Detroit  to  Chicago. 

Table  of  distances— Toledo, 230 

Adrien — Tecumseh — Nilcs — Michigan  City,. ......  231 

Chicago, 23*2 

From  Chicago  to  Milwaukee, 233 

Do.          to  Galena, id 

Do,          to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,  ....  id 


% 


193 
196 
197 
198 
199 


I 


INDEX.                                 *^^  IX 

From  Buffalo  to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Ontario,  on  the 

British  side. 

Tabic  of  distances—Toronto, 234 

Port  Hope, 235 

Coburff, 236 

Ki  gston 237 

Bay  of  Quinte, 238 

Ridcau  and  Ottawa  Canal, 2:-J9 

Caledonia  Springs, 246 

From  Buffalo  to  Montreal,  on  the  American  side. 

Table  of  distances, 248 

Sackct's  Harboi — Cape  Vincent, 249 

Morristown — Ogdcnsburgh, id 

Rap  ds  of  tlie  St.  Lawrence, 259 

Lacliinc — Montreal, 251 

From  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

Description  of  the  route, 253 

Varennes, 254 

William  Henry,     2.55 

Lake  Si:.  Peter — Three  Rivers, 256 

Richelieu  Rapids — Sillcry  river — VVollc's  Cove,....  257 

Point  Levi, id 

Quebec, 253 

Plains  of  Abraham, 2(i7 

Martello|To\vers,    268 

Falls  of  Montmorenci 2C9 

Lorcttc, 27 1 

Chaudiere  Falls 272 

St.  Lawrence  river  below  Quebec, 274 

Saguenay  river, 275 

Mouth  of  the  St.  Lav;rence, 277 

From  Quebec  to  Montreal, id 

From  Montreal  to  Whitehall, 

Table  of  distances — Laprarie, 278 

St.  Johns — Lake  Chaniplain, 279 

Isle  au  Noix — Rouse's  Point — Piattsburgh, 280 


;'1 


'^■ 


X  INDEX. 

Downie's  Monument,. 282 

Port  Kent— Adgate's  Falls,      283 

High  Bridge — Burlington, 284 

Split  Rock—Crown  Point, 285 

Ticonderoga — Mount  Independence,... id 

South  and  East  Bays— Whitehall, 286 

CHAMPLAIN    CANAL. 

Description  of, 287 

Canal  route  f^om  Whitehall  to  Albany. 
Tableof  distances, 287 

From  Whitehall  to  Troy  and  Albany y  by  stage  and 

rail  road. 

Table  of  distances, , 288 

Fort  Ann — Burgoyne's  road, , 289 

Sandy  Hill— Fortville, id 

Saratoga  Springs  to  Troy  and  Albany, id 

ROUTES    TO    BOSTON. 

Remarks  relating  to, 290 

From  Albany  to  Boston^  via  New-Lebanon. 

Table  of  distances — New-Lebanon, 290 

Plttsficld, 291 

Noatliampton — Farmington  and  Hampshire  Canal,.  292 

Mount  Holyoke,   id 

Hadley— Tlegicid*;s,  Wlialley  and  Goffe, 293 

Belchertown — Ware  Factory  Village — Brookfield,  .  295 

Leicester — Worcester, 296 

Boston  and  Worcester  rail  road, 297 

Worcester  to  Boston, 298 

From  Albany  to  Boston,  via  Springfield,  Mass, 

Tableof  distances — Canaan — West  Stockbridge, . ,  298 

Springfield, 299 

Springfield  to  Boston, 301 


..  282 

..  283 

..  284 

..  285 

id 

..  286 


289 
id 
id 


.  290 


290 

291 
292 
id 
293 
295 
296 
297 
298 


*• 

INDEX.  ZI 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Boston. 

Table  of  distances — Sclmylcrville, 301 

Union  Village — Cambridgrc — Arlington, id 

Manchester — Chester — Bellows  Falls, 302 

Walpolc, 303 

Keene — Groton — Concord — Lexington, 304 

Cambridge, 306 

From  Whitehall  to  Boston. 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 307 

Rutland— Chester, 308 

From  Burlington  to  Boston,  through  Windsor^  Vt. 

Tabic  of  distances — Montpelier,  309 

Randolph — Royalton — VV^oodstock — Windsor,  .....   310 
Windsor  to  Boston , 311 

From  Burlington  to  Boston,  hy  way  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains and  Concord,  N.  H. 

Table  of  distances — Hanover,  (see  note) 311 

White  Mountains, 312 

Conway — Fryeburgh, , •  • . . .  319 

From  Conway  to  Concord.  » 

Centre  Harbor — Red  Mountain — Squam  Lake,..,,»  *^20 
Concord, , 321 

From  Concord  to  Boston. 

Nashua — Lowell, 322 

Boston  and  Lowell  rail  road, 324 

Boston, 325 

East  Boston — Mount  Auburn, 332 

Quincy — Dorchester, 333 

Brighton — Watertown — Cambridge — Charlestown, .   334 

Breed's  Hill, 335 

Bunker  Hill  Monument — Chelsea, , 339 

Fort  Independence — Nahant, 340 

Forts  around  Boston  erected  during  the  re  volution,.  ^341 


I  r 


1 1 


! 
i 


k 


xn  INDEX. 

from  Boston  to  Portland. 

Tabic  of  distances — Lynn, **.*..  349 

Salem — Newbury  port,, 350 

Exeter — Portsmouth, ..*...  351 

Portland, » 352 

From  Portland  to  Easfport. 

Table  of  distances — North  Yarmouth, 353 

Frecport — Brunswick — Rnth.-Wincasset-Waldoboro  354 
Warren — Thomaston — Camden — Dejfast — Castinc,  355 
Machias — Eastport — Robinstown, 356 

From  Portland  to  Quebec. 

Table  of  distances — Hallowell — Augusta, 357 

Sidney — Waterviile — Norridgework, 358 

Remainder  of  the  route  to  Quebec, id 

From  Boston  to  Providence, 

Boston  and  Providence  rail  road, 359 

Dedhani,  (see  note,) id 

Providence, ^  ^ ........  • >t  ••«..•••.. .  3GD 

Blackstonc  Canal, 362 

Stoningtoii  and  Providence  rail  road,.  * id 

From  Providence  to  New-York,  by  steamboat. 

Table  of  distances,  . , 363 

Pawtuxot — Mount  Hop*; — Bristol, id 

Newport, « d64 

Point  Judith, 365 

Thence  to  New- York,   366 

From  Providence  to  New-York,  by  rail  road  and 

steamboat. 

Table  of  distances — Stonington, 366 

Thence  to  Nov;- York, 368 

From  Slonington  to  New-London. 
NeW'London« , • . . 368 


I 


I 


i( 


#■ 


...  349 

, . .     350 

...  351 

>  .  .  •    O0<e 


...  on«j 
t)oro  354 
inc,  355 
. . .  356 


...  357 

.  .  .     OoO 

.  •  •      id 


.  359 
id 
.  3G0 
..  362 
id 

It. 

..  363 

id 
..  ^64 
.  .  365 
. .  366 

ind 

. .  366 
..  368 


,.  368 


M 


INDEX.  XII] 

From  New-London  to  Norwich^  by  steamboat. 

Thames  Rivrr — Mohcgan, 370 

Tradinjr  Cove — Norwich, 371 

Norwich  and  Worcester  rail  road, 372 

From  Norwich  to  Hartford. 

Table  of  distances, 372 

East  Hartford — Hartford, 373 

Steamboats  and  stages  from  Hartford, 375 

From  Hartford  to  Middletown. 

Wcthersficld— Rocky  Hill— Middletown, 377 

Haddam — Say  brook,  {see  note,) 378 

From  Hartford  to  New-Haven. 

Table  of  distances, 378 

New-Havcn — Yale  College, 379 

West  Jlock — East  Rock — Fannington  Canal, 381 

Steamboats  from  New-Haven  to  New- York, ......  382 

Stages  from  New-Haven, id 

Route  from  New-Haren  to  New-Yorl. 

Table  of  distances — Sketch  of  the  route,  -{sec  note,)  382 

Bridgeport — Rail-road — f'airfield, id 

Norvvalk — Westchester  co. — Horseneck — Harla3m, .  383 

From  New-Haven  to  Litchfield.  f 

Stages— Waterbury— West  Rock 383 

Watertown— Litchfield— Mount  Tom, 384 

Great  Pond — Mount  Prospect, id 

From  Litchfield  to  Albany, 
Stages  and  intervening  places, 384 

From  Litchfield  to  Hartford. 

Harwnnton — Burlington, 385 

Farmington — Hartford, id 

a3 


XIV  INDEX. 

Route  up  the  Valley  of  the  Connecticut  river. 

East  Windsor—Enfield— Sufficld, 3S6 

Sontli  Hadlcy  Falls 3b7 

Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, id 

Muddy  Rrook,   388 

Decrfield, 389 

Greenfield— Turner's  Falls, 391 

Vernon — Guilford — IBrattleborouah, 3d3 

Dummerston — Pulnny — Wcslnninster, id 

Walpolc — Bellows  Falls — Cliarlostown, id 

Springfield,  Weathcrsficld — Windsor, 395 

Ilartland — Hartford — Hanover, id 


"I    ' 


3S6 
367 

id 
388 
389 
391 
3d3 

id 

id 
395 

id 


INTRODUCTION. 


This  work  is  designed  as  a  pocket  minual  and  guide  to 
travellers  visitintr  the  Middle  and  Northern  States  and 
tlie  CatiaJas.  lis  limits  forbid  elaborate  descriptions  or 
minute  geographical  details.  It  is  therefore  confincid  to 
subjects  of  more  immediate  interest  to  the  tourist ;  di- 
recting liim  in  his  course,  and  pointing  out,  as  he  pisses, 
objects  which  most  deserve  his  notice  and  regard. 

The  Guide,  it  will  be  perceived,  commences  at  Augus. 
ta,  in  Georgia,  tho'^gh  a  rapid  glance  of  the  country 
merely  is  taken  until  reaching  Washington  city.  It  b:ing 
the  object  of  tourists  from  the  south,  as  the  warm  season 
approaches,  to  accelerate  their  journey  to  the  more  salu- 
brious climate  of  the  north,  a  description  of  the  southern 
states  would  be  foreign  to  the  design  of  this  work,  and 
probably  uninteresting  to  most  of  its  readers.  We  there- 
fore briefly  notice  some  of  the  prominent  cities  and  towns 
at  the  south,  and  pass  on  to  those  sections  embraced  with- 
in what  has  been  usually  denominated  the  Northern 
Tour. 


f         I 

I  - 


8> 


i 


1 1 


4 


f 


f 


^m^ 


ERRATA. 

In  p.  20, 13th  line  from  top,  instead  of  *'  northeasterly,''* 
read  northwesterly ;  and  in  the  15th  line,  for  "  easterly^** 
read  westerly. 

In  the  21st  pafje,  14th  line  from  top,  for  "  northeast- 
'srly,"  read  northwesterly. 


k 


i  !  ^^ 


!     '.  1 


THE  TRAVELLER'S  GUIDE. 


heasterly^'^* 
'  easterly^* 

northeast' 


FROM  AUGUSTA,  GEO.,  TO  CHARLESTON,  S.  C 

136  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  by  rail  road  are  as  fol- 
lows: 


Miles. 
Augusta  to 

Aiken,.. •     16 

Blakcsville, 30 

Midway, 18 


Miles. 

Branchville, 10 

Summersville, 40 

Woodstock, 7 

Charleston, 15 


Augusta  is  an  incorpoiated  city,  and  the  capital  of 
Richmond  county,  Geo.  It  is  located  on  the  Savannah 
river,  340  miles  by  water  above  Savannah,  between  which 
places  it  is  navigable  for  boats  of  only  100  tons  burthen. 
The  city  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  and  several  churches, 
barks  and  other  public  buildings,  many  of  which  are 
creditable  to  the  taste  and  munificence  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  population  is  about  8000. 

From  Hamburgh,  a  village  of  some  magnitude  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  Charleston  and  Hamburgh 
rail  road  commences,  connecting  the  two  places  by  a 
steam  communication  136  miles  long.  It  was  com- 
menced in  1830  and  completed  in  1633.  Instead  of  be- 
ing graded,  it  originally  consisted  mostly  of  trestle  work — 

B 


1 


\ " 


J  • 


f 


^ 


30 


SAVANNAH  TO  CHARLESTON. 


the  rails,  in  many  instances,  being  from  12  to  15  feet 
above  the  surface  of  tlic  ground.  But  the  importance  of 
rendering  the  work  more  permanent,  soon  became  obvious, 
and  the  "-ompany  have  since  g-raded  the  entire  hne,  and 
rendered  the  foundation  soUd. 

From  the  bridge  at  Hamburgh,  the  road  rises  in  a  dis- 
tance of  16  miles,  360  feet,  and  from  thence  to  Charles- 
ton it  descends  510  feet.  It  has  one  inchned  plain  3800 
feet  long,  with  an  ascent  ot  180  feet,  which  is  overcome 
by  means  of  stationary  engines.  The  route  from  Ham- 
burgh to  Chdrleston  is  performed  in  about  12  hours. 

From  Augusta  a  rail  road  is  nearly  completed  to 
Athens,  114  miles  distant  in  a  northeasterly  direction ; 
and  a  rail  road  is  also  finished  to  Greensborough,  100 
miles  distant,  in  an  easterly  direction.  The  latter  is  a 
part  only  of  a  route  in  progress  to  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Georgia  and  Tennessee,  a  distance  of  285  miles  ; 
from  whence  a  road  is  constructing  to  Knoxville,  Tenn. 
97  miles  farther.  When  completed,  it  will  afford  an  un- 
interrupted line  of  510  miles  from  Charleston  to  the  in- 
terior. 

PROM    SAVANNAH    TO  CHARLESTON, 

110  miles. 
Savannah,  the  principal  city  in  the  state  of  Georgia,  is 
located  on  the  southwest  bank  of  the  Savannah  river, 
about  17  miles  from  the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  city  is 
built  on  elevated  ground,  and  exhibits  a  beautiful  appear, 
ance  from  the  water;  its  tall  spires  and  other  public 
buildings,  with  the  groves  of  trees  planted  along  its 
streets,  giving  it  an  air  of  peculiar  fascination.     The 


*l 


1: 


I 


m 


..y 


SAVANNAH  TO  CHARLESTON. 


Si 


to  15  feet 
ortance  of 
.(3  obvious, 
;  line,  and 

s  in  a  (lis. 
3  Charlca- 
)lain  3800 
overcome 
om  Ham. 
ours. 

iplcted  to 
direction  ; 
ough,  100 
latter  is  a 
ry  line  be- 
85  miles ; 
lie,  Tenn. 
rd  an  un. 
o  the  in- 


eorgia,  is 
ah  river, 
le  city  is 
il  appear, 
jr  public 
ilong  its 
1.      The 


i 


■h 


"4 
•^1 


\:^ji 
^ 


streets  are  wide  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  buildings, 
togctlier  with  the  public  squares,  of  which  there  arc  ten, 
exhibit  mucii  taste  and  elegance.  Of  the  public  build- 
ings, the  city  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  hospital,  theatre, 
exchange,  a  public  library,  3  banks,  and  10  churches. 
The  Presbyterian  church  is  an  elegant  and  spacious 
edifice  of  stone.  The  Exchange  is  a  large  building,  5 
stories  high.  The  academy,  partly  of  brick,  and  partly 
of  stone,  is  ISO  feet  front,  60  feet  wide,  and  3  stories 
high.  Savannah  is  by  far  the  most  important  commer- 
cial town  in  Georgia,  and  is  the  great  mart  of  the  cotton 
planters  for  an  extensive  and  well  settled  region  of  coun- 
try. A  rail  road  between  the  city  and  Macon,  210  miles 
in  a  northeasterly  direction,  is  partly  finished,  and  the 
residue  in  a  state  of  progress. 

Steamboats    ply  regularly    between    Savannah    and 
Charleston,  distance  111  miles,  as  follows: 


Miles. 

Bloodv  Point, 17 

Hilton  Head, 18 

Truncard's  Inlet, 4 

St.  Helena  Sound,....     21 
South  Ecisto  Inlet,..,       3 


Miles. 

Stoney  Inlet, 27 

Coffin  Land, 11 

Fort  Moultire, 6 

Charleston, 4 


By  land,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities  is  118 
miles,  as  follows : 


Miles. 
From     Savannah     to 
Beck's  Ferry,  on  the 

Savannah  river, ....  25 

Fitch's  Echan  road,..  19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, ,  6 

Saltketcher  Church, . .  7 


Milss. 

Thompson's  Tavern, . ,  9 

Pompon  P.  Office, ....  U 

.Tackson  Borough, ....  3 

Hick's  Tavern, 10 

Green's  Tavern, 10 

Ashley  River, 8 

Charleston,'. 6 


li; 


Hi?  ■ 

I       I 


JU 


CHARLEgTON. 


On  this  route,  the  tourist  crosses  the  Savannah  river j 
which  is  navi{jjahlc  for  stcainboais  to  Augusta,  123  miles, 
by  land,  above  Savannah,  having  its  rise  15U  miles  north- 
west of  the  former  place  ; 

The  Coosauhatchie  river^  which  rises  47  miles  north- 
west of  the  village  of  that  name,  and  falls  into  tlio  Coo- 
saw  river,  6  miles  southeast ; 

The  Cambahee  river^  which  rises  75  miles  northwest 
of  Saltketchcr,  and  falls  into  St.  Helena  Sound,  18  miles 
southeast  from  that  ])lace  ; 

The  Ediato  river,  which  rises  90  miles  northwest  of 
Jacksonboro,'  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  ocean  20  miles 
southeast ;  and 

The  Ashley  river^  which  rises  about  40  miles  northwest 
of  Charleston. 

This  route  is  interspersed  with  rice  and  cotton  planta- 
tions, and  several  handsome  country  seats  of  the  opulent 
owners  of  the  soil.  In  the  spring,  the  whole  face  of  the 
coui.try  asGumes  a  richness  of  verdure  highly  picturesque 
and  romantic  ;  which,  however,  becomes  dried  and  with- 
ered during  the  burning  heat  of  a  summer's  sun. 


I 


m 


/i 


CHARLESTON, 

The  metropolis  of  South  Carolina,  is  alike  distinguished 
for  the  opulence  and  hospitality  of  its  inhabitants.  On 
entering  the  city  from  the  bay,  an  interesting  prospect  is 
presented.  The  glittering  spires  of  its  public  edifices  are 
well  calculated  to  give  animation  to  the  scene.  Some  of 
its  streets  are  extremely  beautiful,  and  many  of  the 
houses  are  truly  elegant-  Orange  tiees,  in  the  early  part 
of  the  season,  laden  with  fruit,  and  peach  trees  clothed 


♦* 


vs 


*  'M 


SULLIVAN'S    ISLAND. 


23 


lah  river f 
123  rnilcs, 
lies  north- 
lea  north- 
»  t]ic  Coo. 

northwest 
I,  18  miles 

thwest  of 
1  20  miles 

northwest 

c>n  planta- 
ic  opulent 
ace  of  the 
cturesqne 
and  with- 


inguished 
nts.  On 
•ospect  is 
ifices  are 
Some  of 
of  the 
arly  part 
clothed 


M 


I 


with  blossoms,  meet  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  and  united 
with  the  climate  of  the  country  at  that  timo,  render 
Charleston  one  of  tho  most  attractive  cities  in  the  union. 
The  society  is  refined,  intcllifjont,  frank  and  afTahlc. 

The  city  was  founded  and  made  the  scat  of  govern- 
mcnt  (if  the  state  in  IGSO.  It  stands  on  a  dead  level  with 
the  sea,  two  nohlc  rivers,  the  Ashley  and  tho  Cooper,  en- 
closing it  on  p.  wide  peninsula,  called  the  Neck.  Mott 
of  the  houses  contain  a  pia/za,  extending  from  the  ground 
to  the  top,  giving  to  the  rooms  in  each  story  a  ^hady 
open  walk.  Except  in  the  commercial  parts  of  the  town, 
the  houj-c;-:,  which  are  njostly  painted  white,  are  generally 
surrounded  with  gardens,  trees  and  shrubbery,  giving  to 
them  a  peculiarly  romantic  and  rich  appearance. 

Tlic  most  celebrated  edifices  of  this  city,  arc  10  or  12 
in  number,  exclusive  of  20  churches  ;  many  of  which  ex- 
hibit much  irchitectural  tasto  and  beauty.  The  city 
library  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  union,  and  contains  near- 
ly 14,000  volumes. 

Though  this  city  has  been  occasionally  visited  with  yel- 
low fever,  it  is  considered  more  healthy  for  acclimated  in- 
habitants than  the  surrounding  country.  The  planters 
from  the  low  country,  and  many  opulent  strangers  from  the 
West  Indies,  come  here  to  spend  the  sickly  months,  and 
to  enjoy  the  elegant  and  enlightened  society  with  which 
the  city  abounds. 

The  rail  road  from  this  place  to  Hamburgh,  &c.  has 
already  been  noticed  at  p.  19. 

Sullivan's  Island,  which  lays  at  the  distance  of  7 
Tnile^>  from  the  city,  at  tha  entrance  of  tho  harbor,  is  a 

B-2 


>*>f . 


'H> 


¥. 


^w 


24 


SULLIVAN'S  ISLAND. 


^11 


^ 
if 


m 


H 


ii 


M 


spot  consecrated  ng  the  theatre  of  important  events  dur- 
ing the  revolution.  On  this  island  is  Fort  Moultrie, 
rendered  glorious  by  the  unyielding  desperation  with 
which  it  sustained  the  attack  of  the  British  fleet  in  the 
war  of  in<lepcndence.  The  fleet  consisted  of  about  fifty 
sail ;  and  on  the  first  annunciation  of  its  approach,  lay 
within  six  leagues  of  the  island. 

About  this  period,  a  proclamation  reached  the  shore, 
under  the  sanction  of  a  flag,  in  which  the  British  com- 
mander,  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  held  out  the  promise  of  par- 
don to  all  who  would  resign  their  arms,  and  co-operate  in 
the  re-establishment  of  loyalty.  But  the  proposition  met 
with  the  rejection  which  it  deserved.  The  militia  of  the 
adjacent  country  crowded  the  streets  of  Charleston  ;  the 
citizens  threw  down  their  implements  of  industry,  and 
grasped  their  arms  in  defence  of  their  native  city.  On 
the  28th  June,  1776,  Fort  Moultrie  was  attacked  by  about 
ten  ships,  frigates  and  sloops,  and  was  defended  in  a  man- 
ner that  would  have  honored  the  heroic  veterans  of  Greece 
or  Rome.  So  manfully  did  the  garrison  withstand  the 
conflict,  that  the  fleet  was  compelled  to  withdraw,  leav- 
ing the  inhabitants  in  the  unmolested  enjoyment  of  their 
rights. 

From  Charleston  to  New-Orlcans,  a  very  common 
route  is  by  rail  road  to  Greensboro',  (already  noticed)  and 
from  thence  by  stage,  twice  a  day,  via  Indian  Springs, 
(Geo.)  Columbus,  Montgomery,  (Alab.)  and  Mobile;  and 
another  by  steamboat  to  Brunswick,  (Geo.)  160  miles,  by 
stage  to  Tallahassee,  (Florida)  210  milet-,  by  rail  road  to 
St.  Marks,  21  miles,  by  steamboat  to  Lake  Wimico,  (in- 
ner passage)  85  miles,  by  steamboat  from  St.  Josephs  to 


^■j$ 


^^ 


i 


i,t^' 


CHARLESTON  TO  WELDON. 


35. 


vents  dur- 

MOULTRIE, 

ition  with 
icet  in  the 
about  fifty 
)roach,  lay 

the  shore, 
■itish  com- 
lise  of  par- 
t-operate in 
asition  met 
Utia  of  the 
eston  ;  the 
lustry,  and 

city.  On 
d  by  about 
1  in  a  man- 

of  Greece 
istand  the 
raw,  leav- 
it  of  their 

common 
Liced)  and 

Springs, 
obile ;  and 
miles,  by 
lil  road  to 
imico,  (in- 
osephs  to 


i 


m 


m 


:'-^' 


Mobile,  215  miles,  and  from  thence  to  New-Orleans,  114 
miles. 

The  communication  between  Charleston  and  New- 
York,  until  recently,  was  mostly  by  steamboat ;  but  since 
the  construction  of  the  North  Carolina  and  Virginia  rail 
roads,  the  inland  route  is  generally  preferred. 

The  distance  bv  water,  is  670  miles,  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Off  Cape  Fear, 120 

Cape  Look  Out,.,  75 
Cape  Hatteras,.. .  78 
Capes  of  Virginia,  140 
Cape  May, 120 


Miles. 
Off  Bamcgat  Inlet, . .     70 

The  Bar, 45 

Sandy  Hook,   3 

The  Narrows, 11 

New-York, 8 


FR03I    CHARLESTON    TO    WELDON,    N.    C. 

315  miles. 

The  route  is  by  steamboat  and  rail  road,  as  follows  : 
By  steamboat. 


Miles. 
From  Charleston  to 
the  mouth  of  Cape 
Fear  River, 120 


Wilmington, 


35 


By  rail  road. 

Miles. 
From  Wilmington  to 
Wcldon, 160 


A  steamboat  leaves  Charleston  daily,  and  reaches  Wil. 
mington  in  about  14  hours :  from  whence  a  rail  road, 
passing  through  Waynesboro'  and  Enfield,  to  Weldon,  on 
the  Roanoke  river,  is  taken,  occupying  about  10  hours 
more.     Steamboat  and  rail  road  fare,  ^15. 

Wilmington,  N.  C,  is  the  capilal  of  New-Hanover 
county.  It  is  situated  on  the  northeast  side  of  Cape  Fear 
river,  just  below  a  union  of  its  branches,  to  which  place 
the  river  is  navigable  for  vessels.     The  town  contains 


is 


m 


;  h 


26 


WELDON   TO   WABIILNGTON    CITY. 


about  3000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  greatest  shipping  port 
in  the  state.  It  was  visited  by  a  conflagration  in  1819* 
by  which  200  buildings,  vahied  at  $1,000,000,  were  de- 
stroycd  ;  by  another  in  1828,  in  which  50  buildings  were 
burned,  valued  at  $130,000 ;  and  by  another  in  the  month 
of  January,  the  present  year,  (1840)  in  which  150  build- 
ings were  destroyed. 

The  rail  road  to  the  Roanoke  crosses,  in  its  course,  a 
rail  road  leading  to  Raleigh,  the  capital  of  the  state,  and 
also  the  Neusc  and  Tar  rivers. 


FROM    WELDON    TO    WASHINGTON    CITY. 

There  are  two  routes  ;  one  by  the  way  of  Norfolk,  the 
other  by  the  way  of  Richiaaond.    A  sketch  of  each  is 


given 


By  the  way  of  Norfolk 

Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
From  Weldon  to  Ports- 
mouth,  

By  steamboat. 
Mouth   of     Elizabeth 

river 

Mouth  of  James  river. 
Mouth  of  York  river. 
Old  Point  Comfort, 


9 
6 

20 


277  miles. 

Miles. 
New  Point  Comfort,  10 
Rappahannock  river,  15 
Off   Outlet  St.  Mary's 

river,*.*. 42 

Off  Port  Tobacco 38 

Mouth  of  Potomac  creek,  15 

Mount  Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, * .     9 

Washington, 6 


PoRTSMOT"^ii,  the  terminating  point  of  the  rail  road 
from  the  Roanoke  river,  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  south- 
west side  of  Elizabeth  river.  It  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  4  or  5  churches,  and  about  3000  inhabitants.  The 
river  is  here  crossed  to 

Norfolk,  which  is  directly  opposite,  and  1  mile  distant. 
It  is  the  commercial  capital  of  Virginia,  and  is  situated 


I    m 


NORFOLK. 


27 


iping  port 
[lin  1819» 
,  were  de- 
lings  were 
the  month 
150  build. 

course,  a 
state,  and 


CITY. 

3rfolk,  the 
jf  each  is 


Miles. 
)rt,  10 
'^er,  15 
lary's 

42 

),••••   oij 
creek,  15 
...  30 
...    9 
...     6 

rail  road 

le  south- 

irt  house, 

ts.    The 

distant, 
situated 


v% 


I 


immediately  bf^low  the  two  branches  of  the  Elizabeth, 
and  8  miles  above  Hampton  Hoads.  Its  population  is 
about  12,000.  Tiic  town  lies  low,  and  is  in  some  places 
marshy,  though  the  principal  streets  are  well  paved. 
Among  the  public  buildings  arc  a  theatre,  3  banks,  an 
academy,  marine  h^^pital,  atheneum,  and  6  churches. 
The  harbor,  which  is  capacious  and  safe,  is  defended  by 
several  forts.  One  is  on  Craney  Island,  near  the  mouth 
of  Elizabeth  river.  There  arc  also  fortifications  at  Hamp- 
ton Roads,  the  principal  of  which  is  F<»rt  Calhoun. 

The  Navy  Yard  at  Gosporf,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eliza- 
beth river,  nearly  opposite  Norfolk,  is  deserving  the  atten- 
tion of  strangers.  A  superb  dock  has  been  constructed 
at  this  place,  similar  to  that  at  Charlestown,  near  Boston. 
The  length  of  the  bottom,  from  tho  inner  or  foremost 
block,  to  that  which  is  nearest  the  gates,  is  206  feet,  be- 
sides 50  feet  of  spare  room — sufficient  to  hold  a  small 
vessel.  The  width  of  the  dock,  at  the  top,  is  86  feet. 
As  the  tide  rises  and  falls  but  3  or  4  feet,  the  water 
is  pumped  out,  when  necessary,  by  steam  engines. 

Boats  ply  continually  between  Norfolk  and  Baltimore, 
a  distance  of  197  miles ;  and  also  between  Norfolk  and 
Richmond,  the  capital  of  Virginia,  117  miles  * 


*  On  the  latter  route,  Jamestown^  24  miles  from  Nor- 
folk, is  passed,  on  the  James  river.  It  was  founded  in 
1608,  and  was  the  first  English  settlement  in  the  United 
States.  The  site  is  very  beautiful,  and  the  settlement 
itself  must  have  been  but  o  few  steps  from  the  river. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  delighti'ul  and  variegated  succes- 
sion of  woodlands,  meadows,  pastures,  and  green  fields  ; 
in  front  appears  the  broad  expanse  of  James  river,  with 
its  multitude  of  white,  gliding  sails.     The  opposite  hills 


f^     V    upr 


H 


/:■ 


28 


MOUNT   VEftNON. 


From  Norfolk  to  Washington  City,  the  route  is  down 
the  Elizabeth  river  till  it  enters  the  Chesapeake  Bay — 
thence  up  the  bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac,  which  is 
entered,  the  boat  proceeding  up  the  river,  and  passing 
Mount  Vernon  and  Alexandria. 

Mount  Vernon  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  30  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac  creek.  To  this  sacred 
spot  the  nimd  of  every  American  recurs  with  the  most 
enthusiastic  devotion.  He  looks  upon  it  as  consecrated 
ground.  Here  the  immortal  Washington,  after  having 
conducted  the  Am  irican  armies  forth  to  victory  and  in- 
dependence, retired  to  enjoy  the  rich  reward  of  his  ser- 
vices in  the  warm  hearted  gratitude  of  his  countrymen, 
and  in  the  peaceful  seclusion  f  private  life. 


Mi 


are  picturesque  :  some  are  entirely  covered  with  woods  ; 
others,  partly  cleared,  presenting,  in  the  proper  season, 
patches  of  white  wavy  corn.  To  increase  the  richness  of 
this  scenery,  here  and  there  are  distinguished  the  old  and 
elegant  mansions  of  the  Virginia  planters,  like  points  of 
beauty  in  a  fine  picture. 

No  vestige  of  Jamestown  is  now  to  be  seen,  except 
the  ruins  of  a  church  steeple,  about  30  feet  high,  and 
fringed  to  its  summit  with  running  ivy.  Near  by  is  a 
burying  ground  with  its  venerable  tombstones,  and  spot- 
ted with  dark  green  shrubbery  and  melancholy  flowers. 
It  looks  like  a  lonely,  unfrequented  place,  and  there  is 
something  deeply  interesting  in  contemplating  these  ves- 
tiges of  an  age  gone  by. 

The  celebrated  Pocahontas  (daughter  of  the  Indian 
chief  Powhatan)  was  the  tutelary  guardian  of  this  settle- 
ment ;  and  some  of  her  descendants  are  now  living  in 
Virginia.  The  late  John  Randolph  used  to  claim  to  be 
of  the  number. 


"\ 


^': 


ALEXANDRIA. 


29 


ite  is  down 
jake  Bay — 
3.C,  which  is 
ind  passing 

rer,  30  miles 
)  tliis  sacred 
th  the  most 
consecrated 
ifter  having 
tory  and  in- 
i  of  his  ser- 
jountrymen, 


mth  woods ; 

^per  season, 
richness  of 
he  old  and 

i.e  points  of 

een,  except 
high,  and 
ar  by  is  a 
,  and  spot- 
y  flowers, 
nd  there  is 
these  ves- 

he  Indian 
this  settlc- 
w  living  in 
laim  to  be 


■n 


i^ 


This  place,  till  within  a  few  years,  was  the  residence 
of  Judge  Washington,  the  nephew  of  the  General ;  but 
after  his  decease  in  1829,  the  estate  descended  to  a  ne- 
phew  of  the  Judge,  John  Adams  Washington,  who  died 
in  1832  ;  since  which  the  estate  has  remained  in  the  pos- 
session  of  the  widow  and  children  of  the  latter.  The 
road  to  it  is  almost  uninhabited,  and  difficult  tc  trace. 
The  house  stands  on  an  eminence,  embracing  a  delightful 
view  of  the  Potor  ac,  with  a  rich  and  beautiful  lawn  ex- 
tending  in  front  to  the  river. 

The  Tomb  of  Washington  is  visited  as  an  mteresting 
object  of  contemplation.  The  Old  Totnb,  so  called,  in 
which  the  remains  were  originally  interred,  is  fast  going 
to  decay  ;  but  the  new  tomb,  more  remote  from  the  riv- 
er, the  construction  of  which  was  commenced  by  the 
General  previous  to  his  decease,  and  into  which  his  re- 
mains were  removed  in  1830,  and  subsequently  placed 
within  a  marble  sarcophagus,  is  of  solid  and  enduring  ma- 
terials. Here  slumber  in  peaceful  silence  the  ashes  of 
the  great  and  patriotic  Father  of  Liberty.  No  monument 
has  yet  been  erected  to  his  memory;  and  the  only  in- 
scription on  the  tomb  is  the  following  :  "  I  am  the  resur- 
rection and  the  life." 

Alexandria,  an  incorporated  city,  9  miles  farther,  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  place  of  extensive  business 
and  of  fashionable  resort  during  the  sittings  of  congress. 
It  contains  a  court  house,  6  churches  aud  a  theological 
seminary. 

The  Museum  at  this  place,  among  other  things,  con- 
tains an  elegant  satin  robe,  scarlet  on  one  side  and  white 


so 


RICHMOND   ROUtE* 


•V  *\ 


I:        V 


!     ;!i'h  ': 


on  the  other,  in  which  Gen.  Washington  was  baptized ; 
a  penknifcj  with  a  pearl  handle,  given  to  him  by  his  moth, 
cr  when  he  was  in  his  twelfth  year,  and  which  he  kept 
fifty-six  years;  a  7)earl  hutton,  from  the  coat  he  wore  at 
his  first  inauguration  as  Prcrident  of  the  United  States  in 
the  old  City  Hall,  New^-Yoik;  a  black  glove,  worn  by 
him  while  in  mourning  for  his  mother ;  part  of  tke  last 
stick  of  scaling  wax  which  he  used  ;  the  original  of  the 
last  letter  written  hy  Jiim,  being  a  polite  apology,  in  be- 
half of  himself  and  Mrs.  Washington,  for  dcchning  an 
invitation  to  a  ball  at  Alexandria ;  it  is  penned  with  sin- 
gular  neatness,  accuracy  and  precision,  and  contains  this 
expression  :  "  Alas  I  our  dancing  days  are  over  ;"  a  beau, 
tiful  masonic  apron,  with  the  belt  of  scarlet  satin  antl  the 
white  kid  gloves  worn  by  him  the  last  time  he  shared  in 
the  social  ceremonies  of  the  "m^'stic  tie." 

The  country  between  this  city  and  the  capitol  is  but 
thinly  inhabited,  and  the  soil  poor  and  unproductive ; 
but  the  road  is  good,  and  a  ride  to  Alexandria  constitutes 
one  of  the  amusements  of  a  winter  at  Washington. 

FROM  WELDON,  N.  C  TO  WASHINGTON  CITY, 

By  way  of  Richmond,  Va. — 194  miles. 
The  route  is  by  rail  road  and  steamboat  as  follows : 


Miles. 
hy  rail  road. 
From  Weldon  to  Peters- 
burgh,  60 

Richmond, .    23 

Frederickriburgh,  .....   64 
Belleplain, 11 


Miles. 
By  steamboat. 
From  Belleplain  on  Po- 
tomac creek  to  Mount 

Vernon, 32 

Alexandria, 9 


Washington  City, 6 

Petersburgh,  Va.  is  located  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Appomatox,  just  below  the  Falls,  12  miles  above  its  junc 


RICHMOND. 


31 


!  baptized; 

y  his  moth- 
ich  he  kept 
he  wore  at 
ed  States  in 
e,  worn  by 
of  the  last 
rinal  of  the 
logy,  in  be- 
icclining  an 
ed  with  sin- 
contains  this 
»r ;"  0  beau- 
atin  anil  the 
le  shared  in 

ipitol  is  but 
I  productive ; 
H  constitutes 
gton. 

ON  CITY, 

les. 
follows : 

Miles, 
iboat. 
[  on  Po- 
0  Mount 

32 

.....     9 

y 6 

bank  of  the 
>ve  its  June 


^1 


tion  with  the  James  river.  It  is  one  of  the  most  hand- 
some and  flourishing  towns  in  the  state,  and  enjoys  im- 
portant commercial  and  manufacturing  advantages.  Its 
population  is  from  10  to  12,000. 

Richmond,  the  capital  of  Virginia,  (^22  miles  farther,) 
is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  James  river,  directly  at 
its  lower  falls,  at  the  head  of  tide  water,  and  150  miles 
from  its  moutli.  The  town  rises  in  an  acclivity  from  the 
water,  and  presents  a  beautiful  and  highly  picturesque 
appearance.  A  part  of  the  town,  on  what  is  called  Shoc- 
koe  hill,  overlooks  liie  lower  part ;  and  from  the  capitol, 
which  is  on  the  greatest  eminence,  a  most  delightful  pros- 
pect is  had  of  the  river  and  adjacent  country.  Besides 
the  capitol,  which  is  a  handsome  edifice,  the  c'ty  con- 
tains an  elegant  court  house,  a  penitentiary,  (which  cost 
^135,000,)  an  alms  house,  9  markets,  an  academy  of 
fine  arts,  a  female  orphan  asylum,  2  banks,  and  12  church- 
es ;  one  of  which,  built  on  the  ruins  of  the  theatre,  in  the 
conflagration  of  which  90  citizens  perished,  is  very  beau- 
tiful.    TJie  population  of  the  city  is  about  18,000. 

Manchester,  directly  opposite,  is  connected  with  Rich- 
mond by  two  substantial  bridges,  and  is  a  flourishing- 
place. 

Fredericksburgh  (64  miles  from  Richiriond)  is  situa- 
ated  on  the  sout^  side  of  the  Rappahannock  river,  110 
miles  from  its  outlet  into  the  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  con- 
tains  a  court  iiouse,  jail,  academy,  2  banks,  5  churches, 
and  about  600  dwelling  houses ;  and  being  near  the  head 
of  navigation,  and  surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  it  en- 
joys an  extensive  and  advantageous  trade. 


■•-#* 


-y* 


•   ■ 


il    ■ 


n 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


Mount  Vernon  and  Alexandria,  on  this  route,  have 
already  been  noticed  at  pp.  28,  29. 

WASHINGTON  CITY 

Is  6  miles  from  Alexandria.  As  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  the  Union,  it  is  a  place  of  much  resort  during 
the  session  of  congress  in  the  winter  ;  but  is  mostly  de- 
serted by  strangers  in  the  summer.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Maryland  side  of  the  Potomac,  and  on  the  point  of  land 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Eastern  Branch.  The  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia  in  which  the  city  is  located,  was  ceded 
lo  the  United  States  by  Maryland  and  Virginia  in  1790, 
and  in  1800  it  became  the  seat  of  the  general  govern- 
ment. This  District  is  about  10  miles  square,  lying  on 
both  sides  of  the  Potomac,  and  is  under  the  immediate 
direction  of  congress. 

The  Capitol  stands  on  a  high  and  lofty  eminence, 
and  commands  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Avenue,  the  President's  House,  Georgetown  and  the  Po- 
tomac, the  Public  Offices,  the  Navy  Yard,  Greenleaf 's 
Point,  the  bridge  over  the  river,  and  the  road  to  Alexan- 
dria and  Mount  Vernon.  The  capitol  is  built  of  white 
free  stone,  has  two  wings,  and  is  a  very  magnificent  edi- 
fice. 

The  exterior  exhibits  a  rusticated  basement,  of  the 
height  of  the  first  story ;  the  two  other  stories  are  com- 
prised in  a  Corinthian  elevation  of  pilasters  and  columns — 
the  columns  30  feet  in  height,  form  a  noble  advancing 
portico  on  the  east,  150  feet  in  extent — the  centre  cf 
which  is  crowned  with  a  pedimert  of  80  feet  span  :  a  re- 


ir 


M 


|^ 


route,  have 


WASHINGTON   CITY. 


39 


t  of  govern- 
•esort  during 
is  mostly  de- 
uated  on  the 
point  of  land 
h.    ThcDis. 
id,  was  ceded 
inia  in  1790, 
neral  govern- 
lare,  lying  on 
16  immediate 

■ty  eminence, 

Pennsylvania 

n  and  the  Po- 

,  Greenleaf  s 

ad  to  Alexan- 

)uilt  of  white 

gnificent  edi- 

ment,  of  the 
)ries  are  com- 
nd  columns — 
)le  advancing 
he  centre  cf 
t  span  :  a  re- 


-1 


t 


ceding  loggia  of  1 00  feet  extent,  distinguishee  the  centre 
of  the  west  .*'ront. 

The  buildi.ig  is  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  cf  stone, 
and  covered  with  a  lofty  dome  in  the  centre,  and  a  flat 
dome  on  each  wing. 

The  Chamber  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  in  the 
second  story  of  the  south  wing,  and  is  semicircular,  in  the 
form  of  the  ancient  Grecian  tlieatre ;  the  chord  oi  the 
longest  dimension  is  96  feet,  and  the  height  to  the  high- 
est point  of  the  domical  ccihng  is  60  feet.  This  room  is 
surrounded  by  24  columns  of  variegated  native  marble, 
or  breccia^  from  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  with  capitals 
of  white  Italian  marble,  carved  after  a  specimen  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  still  remaining  among  the  ruins  of 
Athens,  which  stand  on  a  base  of  free  stone,  and  supper', 
a  magnificent  dome  painted  in  a  very  rich  and  splcnduf 
style  to  represent  that  of  the  Pantheon  of  Rome,  and  ex- 
ecuted by  an  interesting  young  Italian  artist,  named  Bo. 
nani,  who  died  a  few  years  ago.  In  the  centre  of  this 
dome  is  erected,  to  admit  the  light  from  above,  a  hand- 
some cupola,  from  which  is  suspended  a  massy  bronze 
gilt  ciiandelier  of  immense  v/eight,  wh'ch  reaches  within 
10  feet  of  the  floor  of  the  chamber.  The  speaker's  chair 
is  elevated  and  canopied,  and  on  a  level  with  the  loggia 
or  promenade  for  the  members,  consisting  of  columns  and 
pilasters  of  marble  and  stone.  Above  this,  and  under  a 
sweeping  arch  near  the  dome,  is  placed  the  model  of  a 
colossal  figure  of  Liberty^  and  on  the  entablature  beneath 
is  sculptured  an  American  Eagle.  In  front  of  the  chair, 
and  immediately  over  the  entrance,  stands  a  beautiful 
statue   in  marble,  representing  History  recording  the 


I 


34 


5VASBINQT0N  CITT. 


■>-i 


events  of  the  nation.  Between  tho  columns  is  suspended 
fringed  drapery  of  crimsoned  moreens,  festooned  near  the 
gallery,  to  limit  the  sound  an<l  assist  the  hearing.  A  mag- 
nificient  portrait  of  La  Fayette,  at  full  length,  painted  by 
a  French  artist,  decorates  a  panel  on  one  side  the  loggia. 

The  Senate  Chamber  in  the  north  winpr,  is  of  the  same 
semicircular  form,  75  feet  in  its  greatest  length,  and  45 
feet  high  ;  a  screen  of  Ionic  columns,  with  capitals  after 
those  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  Polias,  support  a  gallery 
to  the  east,  and  form  a  loggia  below,  and  a  new  gallery 
of  iron  pillars  and  railings  of  light  and  elegant  structure 
projects  from  the  circular  walls  :  the  dome  ceiling  is  en- 
Tiched  with  square  caissons  of  stucco. 

The  walls  are  covered  with  straw  colored  drapery,  be- 
tween small  pilasters  of  marble  in  the  wall.  Columns  of 
breccia,  or  Potomac  marble,  support  the  pastern  gallery. 

The  Rotunda  comprehends  the  spacious  area  between 
the  two  wings  of  the  structure,  and  is  of  a  circular  form. 
It  is  entirely  of  marble,  (and  so  indeed  is  every  perma- 
nent part  of  the  capitol,)  except  the  light  doors  covered 
with  green  baize  that  lead  out  of  it,  and  the  frame  of  the 
sky  light  above.  The  height  of  the  dome  soars  beyond 
the  roof,  and  it  may  well  be  imagined,  is  most  imposing 
and  sublime.  The  floor  is  beautifully  paved,  and  the 
sound  of  a  single  voice,  uttering  words  in  an  ordinary 
tone,  reverberates  aloft  like  the  faint  rumbling  of  distant 
thunder. 

In  the  niches  designedly  left  about  fifteen  feet  from  the 
floor,  are  four  sculptured  pieces  as  large  as  life,  designed 
to  commemorate  the  aboriginal  character,  and  some  of 
the  prominent  events  in  the  early  history  of  the  country. 


WASHINGTON    CITV. 


9S 


I  suspended 
cd  near  the 
y.  A  mag- 
paintcd  by 
the  loj^gia. 
)f  the  same 
thf  and  45 
ipitals  after 
•t  a  gallery 
lew  gallery 
it  structure 
filing  is  en. 

Irapery,  be- 
Columns  of 
rn  gallery. 
;a  between 
cular  form, 
ry  per  ma- 
rs covered 
me  of  the 
rs  beyond 
imposing 
and  the 
ordinary 
f  distant 

from  the 
designed 
some  of 
country. 


The  scent'  of  tiie  first  device  is  laid  in  1773,  and  is  do. 
signed  to  rrprcs^rnt  a  fearful  contest  between  Daniel  Bonn, 
an  early  r.rttlcr  in  one  of  the  western  states,  and  an  In- 
dian cliief.  The  second  represents  the  landinjr  of  the 
pilf^rims  at  Plymouth  in  16^').  The  third  is  a  represen- 
tation of  William  Penn  and  two  In^lian  chiefs  in  a  treaty 
in  1682,  under  Ihe  meinorahlc  elm  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Delaware,  near  Philadelphia.  An>!  the  fourth  repre- 
sents the  narrow  escape  in  160('>,  of  Capt.  John  Smith, 
Uic  first  successful  adventurer  in  Vir;rinia,  from  the  up- 
lifted  war-club  of  King  Powhatan.  The  fijrurc  of  Poca- 
hontas, in  the  attitude  of  supplicating  the  mercy  of  her 
father  in  behalf  of  the  intended  victim,  is  beautifully 
wrought,  and  the  wlrole  exhibits  much  elegance  of  design 
and  workmanship.  In  the  remaining  niches,  which  arc 
designed  to  be  filled  with  paintings,  are  already  placed 
the  following,  executed  by  the  late  Col.  Trumbull,  one  of 
the  aids  of  Gen.  Washington :  The  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence ;  Surrender  oi'  Gen.  Burgoyne ;  Surrender  of 
Cornwallis  at  Yorktown  ;  and  the  Resignation  of  General 
Washington  at  Annapolis,  December  23,  1783  The  fig- 
ures  in  these  paintings  are  full  length,  and  are  said  to  be 
excellent  likenesses.  The  designs  and  execution  are  ad- 
mirable, and  exhibit  the  great  and  almost  unrivalled  tal- 
ent  of  the  artist. 

The  Library. — Passing  froia  the  Rotunda,  westerly, 
along  the  gallery  of  the  principal  stairs,  the  library  room 
door  presents  itself.  This  room  is  92  feet  long,  34  wide, 
and  36  high.  It  is  divided  into  tv:clve  arched  alcoves, 
o.-namented  with  fluted  pilasters,  copied  from  the  pillars 

in  the  celebrated  octaoou  tower  at  Athens. 

c2 


n  !' 


3ti 


WA811JKOTON   CITY. 


This  extensive  collection  of  books  embraces  at  present 
about  sixteen  thousand  volumes,  in  various  languages. 
The  library  is  well  eliosen.  The  clast^ical  department, 
in  particular,  cuniprisco  many  rare  books.  Mr.  Jefler. 
son's  arrangement  of  them  is  still  preserved,  foujided, 
it  is  presumed,  on  Bacon's  classification  of  science  ;  and 
they  are  divided  into  clinpters,  according  to  the  subjects 
to  which  they  relate. 

Besides  the  principal  rooms  above  mentioned,  two  others 
deserve  notice,  from  the  peculiarity  of  their  architecture — 
the  round  apartment  under  the  Rotunda,  enclosing  lorly 
columns  ojpportiug  ground  arches,  which  form  the  fljor 
of  the  Rotunda.  This  room  is  similar  to  the  substruclioiis 
of  the  European  cathedrals,  and  may  take  the  name  of 
Crypt  from  them.  The  other  room  is  used  by  the  Su- 
preme  Court  of  the  United  States,  and  is  of  the  same 
style  of  architeclure,  \v  h  a  b^ld  and  curious  arched  fd. 
ing — ihc  columns  of  these  rooms  are  of  marsy  !J.)rick, 
imitate^  froui  the  temples  of  Ffcstum  Twenty. five  o'her 
rooms,  of  various  «  /(  r  are  appropriated  t«»  the  officers  of 
the  two  houses  of  con;^ic;i.}  and  oi  the  Supreme  lourt,  and 
45  to  the  use  cf  committees  ;  they  are  all  vaulied  and  fl.)c;r- 
ed  with  brick  and  stone.  The  three  principal  stair  cases 
are  spacious  and  varied  in  their  form  ;  these,  with  the 
vestibules  and  numerous  corridors  or  passages,  it  would 
bo  difficult  to  describe  intelligibly.  VVe  will  only  say, 
that  they  are  in  conformity  to  the  dignity  of  the  building 
and  iilyle  of  the  jjarts  already  named. 

The  East  Front  presents  three  marble  figures,  repre- 
senting the  Genius  of  America,  Hope  and  Justice.    They 


.*;      t,     ," 


%• 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


37 


at  present 
languages, 
epartnunt, 
Mr.  JofTcr. 
1,  founded, 
icncc  ;  and 
he  subjects 

,  two  others 

hitccture — 

losing  lorty 

m  llie  fl  )or 

ibstruciioiis 

the  naniL*  of 

by  the  Su- 

f  ih'j  same 

arched    eil. 

sy  D  trick, 

-five  o'hcr 

ofBcers  of 

i'Osirt,and 

d  and  fl.)c'r- 

stair  cases 

with  the 

s,  it  would 

only  say, 

he  building 

ires,  repre- 
ce.    They 


■m 


arc  executed  with  much  taste  and  judguunt,  and  [)rcscnt 
an  imposini,'  appcaranc. 

Froniing  thf  capitol,  t')vvards  tiie  i'on:isylvania  Avenue, 
and  within  an  oblong  marble  vase,  is  a  naval  mji'iuncnt, 
originally  erected  at  the  navy  yard,  in  mt  mory  of  the 
American  officers  who  fell  in  the  Tilpolitaii  war.  It  is 
a  simple  c.'>lumn,  wrought  in  Italy  at  the  e.vpjnsc  of  the 
survivors. 

The  Pra^idcnV!^  llousr^  which  i^  also  constructed  of 
white  tree  stone,  two  stones  high,  with  tlic  spacious  huild. 
ings  near  it  for  the  acci>nmir)dation  of  the  heads  oi"  .'^o- 
partmcnts,  make  together  an  interesting  spectacle  lor  the 
visitant. 

Am  )ng  other  places  of  interest  at  and  tirar  W^ishin^r-. 
ton,  and  wh  eh  deserve  the  attention  of  visitants  are  the 
Navy  Yaid;  the  Columbian  College,  situate  on  a  high 
range  of  ground  north  of  the  ci<y  and  about  a  mile  from 
the  President's  House,  and  the  National  Burying  Ground 
about  a  mile  foutheist  of  the  eapitol. 

The  ground  on  which  Washington  is  built  is  airy  and 
salubrious  ;  and  the  city,  from  the  extent  of  its  territory, 
presents  the  appearance  of  sc*cral  distinct  villages.  It 
contains  a  population  cf  about  20,000. 

Its  principal  public  houses  are  the  National  Hotel,  the 
Indian  Queen  Hotel,  and  the  Mansion  Hotel.  They  are 
all  located  on  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 

There  is  a  bridge  across  the  Potomac,  opposite  Wash- 
ington,  which  was  completed  in  1835.  It  is  one  mile  in 
length,  including  tiie  abutments.  It  has  drnw^  for  the 
pas.-^age  of  vessels,  b(J  feet  m  width  i  so  that  its  construe 


n 


'  8  i' 

i 

f 

ifilf 

'H 

i 

1  ,' 

« 

\ 

.   Ml. 


I'i'iii 


' 


38 


CHESAPEAKE   AND  OHIO  CANAL. 


tion  does  not  materially  interfere  with  the  navigation  of 
the  river.     Its  cost  was  about  ^130,000. 

Georgetown  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  Potomac  with 
Washington,  at  the  distance  of  3  miles  west  of  the  capi- 
tol.  If  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  and  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable trade.  The  country  around  it  is  richly  diversi- 
fied, and  the  location  of  the  Catholic  Monastery  is  vtry 
delightful.  It  stands  on  the  borders  of  "  the  heights," 
in  the  nojthwest  part  of  the  town,  and  overlooks  the 
body  of  the  town  below.  The  enclosure  embraces  about 
one  a; re. 

The  Academy,  or  High  School  for  Ladios,  i^  the  most 
interesting  appendage  of  the  convent.  It  contains  a 
boarding  school  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  pupils,  and  a 
free  or  charity  school  of  a  much  larger  number  of  day 
scholars. 

The  seminary  is  divided  into  four  classes.  The  hall  of 
the  first  class  contains  an  extensive  cabinet  of  minerals, 
to  which  many  rare  and  valuable  specimens  have  been 
presented  by  the  officers  of  our  navy,  and  by  catholics  of 
the  eastern  world.  It  also  claims  to  have  many  sacred 
relics,  such  as  shreds  or  scraps  from  the  garments  of  nu- 
merous saints — fragments  from  the  church  and  tomb  of 
St.  Peter,  and  of  other  saints — pieces  of  the  wood  of  the 
cross,  &LC.  &c. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  was  commenced  in 
1828,  but  has  not  l:cn  prosecuted  with  the  vigor  at 
first  contemplated.  It  wus  originally  designed  to  extend 
from  Georgetown,  D.  C,  to  near  Pittsburgh,  Penn.,  where 
it  was  to  unite  with  the  Pennsylvania  canal  and  the  Ohio 


CHC8AFFAKK   AltD  OfllCT  CAlfAb. 


vigation  of 

iomac  with 
of  the  capi- 
ace  of  con- 
hly  diversi- 
I'ERY  is  very 
ic  heights," 
erlooks  the 
iraces  about 

11  the  most 

coiitains  a 

)upils,  and  a 

uber  of  day 

The  hall  of 

of  minerals, 

have  been 

catholics  of 

any  sacred 

lents  of  nu- 

and  tomb  of 

|wood  of  Uie 

imenced  in 
llio  vigor  at 
3d  to  extend 
'enn.,  where 
Ind  the  Ohio 


river,  360  miles  in  extent.  It  has,  however,  been  comw 
pleted  only  to  Cumberland,  185  miles.  The  rugged 
country  through  which  it  passes — the  solid  and  beautiful 
masonry  of  the  locks  and  aqueducts — all  conspire  to  im- 
press upon  the  traveller  a  liigh  sense  of  the  skill  of  the 
engineers  and  of  the  enterprize  of  the  company,  which 
has  persevered  in  the  work  under  so  mauy  appalling  diffi- 
culties. The  aqueducts  over  the  Seneca  and  Monocacy 
creeks  are  perhaps  not  exceeded  hy  any  thing  in  this 
country,  for  beauty  and  lightness  of  design  and  solidity  of 
construction.  The  wildness  of  the  scenery  around  sets 
off  to  greater  advantage  these  triumphs  of  art  over  nature. 
It  is,  however,  from  the  Point  of  Rocks  to  Harper's 
Ferry,  12  miles,  that  tlic  greatest  difficaltiss  have  been 
encountered.  For  this  (^stance  llic  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
rail  road  runs  parallel  to,  and  in  contact  with  the  canal— 
the  bank  of  the  latter  forming  the  bed  of  the  former. 
Both  works  arc  carried  for  miles  under  the  precipitous 
crags,  many  hundred  feet  high,  and  whose  very  founda- 
tions have  been  cut  awav  to  form  a  shell  for  the  road, 
while  the  canal  is  made  to  encroach  on  the  bed  of  the 
river.  The  scenery  itself  is  grand  and  imposing,  and 
when  viewed  in  connection  with  the  monuments  of  hu- 
man genius  and  perseverance  which  are  seen  at  the  base 
ol  the  clitfs,  It  assumes  ihe  character  of  sublimity. 


ROUTE    TO   VmOINlA   SPRINGS. 


FROM    "WASHINGTON    TO    THE 

SPRINGS. 


VIRGINIA 


The  route  is  by  post  coaches,  which  leave  daily,  and 
the  distances  as  follow : 


Miles. 


To  Alexandria,., 

9 

Fairfax  C.  House, 

15 

21 

■Centrcville, 

8 

32 

Bull  Run, 

3 

35 

Buckland  Mills,.. 

11 

46 

New  Baltimore,.. 

4 

50 

Warren  ton, 

6 

56 

Lee's  Sulphur  Sp. 

6 

62 

Jefferson, 

3 

65 

Fairfax, 

12 

77 

Cedar  Mt 

6 

83 

Rapidan, 

6 

89 

Orange  C.  H 

7 

96 

Gordon's  Ville,. , . 

8 

]04 

Miles, 

Monticello, 16  120 

Charlottsville,....  3  123 

York, 19  143 

Waynesboro', 6  148 

Staunton,. 12  160 

Jennin^rsN.Mt..  17  177 

Cloverdale, 12  189 

Green  Valley,....  11  200 

Warm  Springs,..  l3  213 

Hot  Springs,....  5  218 

Jackson  River,...  9  227 

White  Sul.  Spgs.  29  256 

Sweet   do.      do..  28  284 

Salt      do.      do..  1  285 


By  diverging  5  miles  from  this  route  at  Orange  Court 
House,  the  traveller  can  visit  the  former  residence 
of  Mr.  Madison  at  Montpelier;  and  by  diverging  still 
farther,  he  can  visit  the  Natural  Bridge,  on  his  way  to 
the  Warm  Springs.  This  bridge  is  over  Cedar  creek,  in 
Rockbridge  county,  12  miles  south  west  of  Lexington, 
and  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curi- 
osities in  the  world.  The  river  at  this  place  runs  through 
a  chasm  in  a  hill.  The  chasm  is  90  feet  wide  at  the  top, 
200  feet  deep,  and  the  sides  almost  perpendicular.  The 
bridge  is  formed  by  a  huge  rock  thrown  completely 
across  the  chasm  at  the  top.  The  rock  forming  the 
bridge  is  60  feet  broad  in  the  middle,  and  is  covered  with 


I 


il 


MONTICELLO. 


41 


RGTNIA 


3  daily,  and 


Miles. 
16    120 


t.. 


»•  • 


)gS. 
0.. 

u.. 


3 

19 
6 

12 

17 

12 

11 

13 

5 

9 

29 

28 

1 


123 

142 

148 

160 

177 

189 

200 

213 

218 

227 

256 

284 

285 


range  Court 
3r  residence 
verging  still 
n  his  way  to 
Jar  creek,  in 

Lexington, 
natural  curi- 
runs  through 
e  at  the  top, 
icular.    The 

completely 
forming  the 
covered  with 


earth  and  trees.    It  forms  a  sublime  spcctacfe  when  ex- 
amined from  the  margin  of  the  river  beneath. 

MoNTicELLo,  on  the  regular  route  to  the  Springs,  is 
distinguished  as  the  former  residence  of  Mr.  Jefferson. 
The  mansion  is  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  reached  by  a 
circuitous  road  of  about  2  miles  in  extent  from  Charlottes, 
ville,  the  seat  of  the  University  founded  by  Mr.  J.  From 
the  peak  on  which  the  house  stands,  a  grand  and  nearly 
illuminated  view  opens,  of  the  thickly  wooded  hills  and 
fertile  vallies,  which  stretch  out  on  either  side.  The 
University,  with  its  dome,  porticoes  and  colonnades,  looks 
like  a  fairy  city  in  the  plain ;  Charlottesville  seems  to  be 
directly  beneath.  No  spot  can  bo  imagined  as  combin- 
ing greater  advantages  of  grandeur,  healthfulness  and  se- 
elusion.  The  house  is  noble  in  its  appearance  ;  two  large 
columns  support  a  portico,  which  extends  from  the  wings. 
The  apartments  are  neatly  furnished  and  embellished  with 
statues,  busts,  portraits  and  natural  curiosities.  At  a  short 
distance  bchird  the  mansion,  in  a  quiet,  shaded  spot,  the 
visitor  sees  a  square  enclosure,  surrounded  by  a  low  un- 
raortared  stone  wall,  which  he  enters  by  a  gate.  This  is 
the  family  burial  ground,  containing  10  or  15  graves,  none 
of  them  marked  by  epitaphs,  and  only  a  few  distinguished 
by  any  memorial.  On  one  side  of  this  simple  cemetery, 
is  the  resting  place  of  the  Patriot  and  Philosopher. 

The  Warm  Springs  which  afford  a  very  copious  sup- 
ply of  water,  are  used  for  bathing,  and  are  at  a  tempera- 
ture  of  97°.  Trie  Ho-^  Springs,  which  are  5  miles  dis- 
tant, furnish  only  a  small  stream ;  but  their  temperature 


.*-,. 


if 

n 

fli 

1 

n 

I. 

m  > 

I   m 

•"  ''a 

:l 

i 

1       ■        -■ 

n'-' 

■  [ir-i 

if 

t 

( 

i 

I'l 

:;      i'«>l 

u          ,,     ll    ' 

1    -■!'  *?H*  , 

'  i[i    '!S* 

j  i 

>i> 

1        ' 
'i      '1'. 

'  ;      : 

*i 

■Mi' 

i  \;f 

l~ 

■  (i 

i 

.  1    Ji 

■V    1 

1     ?;! 

If      ' 

fi 

;f  • 

1* 

|jii 

;,i 

1 

1: 

:     1 

.'    f; 

:m^\ 

■      'i 

( 

1'       1 

^      t    ' 

) 

1- 

'  1         '■ 

•  M 

, 

■:     S 

H  1 

1 

i  ! 

49 


BALTinofta. 


ifl  much  greater,  being  112°.    They  all  flow  into  the 
Jackson,  a  source  of  the  James  river. 

The  White  Sulphur  Springs,  29  miles  farther,  owing 
to  their  medicinal  qualities  and  the  salubrious  air  which 
is  enjoyed  within  their  locality,  have  become  much  cele- 
brated, and  are  annually  visited  by  many  for  pleasure  as 
well  as  for  health  during  the  summer  months. 

FROM    WASHINGTOJSr    TO    BALTIMORE, 

40  miles. 
The  route  is  by  the  Washington  rail  road,  which  com- 
mences  at  the  north-east  part  of  the  city,  and  in  its  course 
to  Baltimore,  approaches  within  sight  of  Bladcnsburgh,  4 
miles  from  Washington ;  crosses  the  Patuxcnt  river  13 
miles  farther ;  crosses  the  Patapsco  river,  on  a  noble  and 
lofty  viaduct,  15  miles  farther,  and  unites  with  the  Balti. 
more  and  Ohio  rail  road  at  Elkridge  Landing,  which  lat- 
ter road  is  taken  for  a  distance  of  8  miles  to  Baltimore. 
The  road  is  made  in  a  very  permanent  and  enduring 
manner ;  and  though  over  a  rough  and  undulating  coun- 
try, its  acclivities  do  not  average  more  than  20  feet  per 
mile.    Its  cost  was  about  $1,500,000. 

IsALTIMORB 

Is  on  the  north  side,  and  at  the  head  of  tide  water  on 
the  Patapsco  river,  14  miles  above  its  entrance  into  the 
Chesapeake  Bay.  It  has  a  population  of  about  100,000, 
and  may  be  considered  the  third  city  in  the  union  ;  whilst 
for  its  various  manufactories  and  public  buildings,  orna- 
mental to  the  city  and  remarkable  for  their  costliness,  tasto 
and  commodiousness,  it  stands  undoubtedly  iu  the  first 


';i»> 


■m 


BALTIMORE. 


43 


)w  into  tho 

•Iher,  owing 

s  air  which 

much  cele- 

pleasurc  as 

tfORE, 

which  com- 
in  its  course 
knsburgh,  4 
ent  river  13 
a  noble  and 
th  the  Balti. 
r,  which  lat- 
)  Baltimore. 

d  enduring 
ating  coun- 

20  feet  per 


ie  water  on 
ce  into  the 
Hi  100,000, 
ion ;  whilst 
ings,  oma- 
iness,  tasto 
the  first 


rank  for  enterprise  and  public  spirit.  Within  20  miles 
around,  the  water  power  iji  almost  incalculable.  It  drives 
at  present  more  than  70  flour  mills  and  several  manufac- 
tories  of  cotton,  cloth,  powder,  paper,  iron,  glass,  steam 
engines,  extensive  chemical  works,  &-c.  Many  of  these 
may  c<»nvenicntly  be  visited  by  sojourners  in  the  city,  on 
foot  or  by  short  rides  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

The  city  embraces  within  its  limits,  a  court  house,  jail, 
penitentiary,  lunatic  asylum,  2  theatres,  an  exchange, 
an  obscrvat«>ry,  2  mu  )(!"rr(s,  5  market  houses,  10  banks, 
gas  works,  (the  flrsf  in  this  country  for  lighting  streets 
and  houses,)  a  public  library,  a  medical  college,  and  47 
houses  of  public  worship. 

Most  of  these  establishments  are  worthy  of  the  atten- 
tion of  tourists,  but  more  especially  the  cathedral,  the  ex- 
change, the  public  fountains,  of  which  there  are  four 
tastefully  ornamented  and  giving  a  copious  supply  of  pure 
spring  water  ;  the  museums,  the  monuments,  and  the  rail 
roads. 

The  Cathedral  is  built  after  the  Grecian  Ionic  order. 
Its  outward  length  is  190  feet,  its  width  177,  audits 
height  to  the  summit  of  the  cross  that  surmounts  the 
dome  is  127  feet.  It  contains  the  largest  organ  in  the 
United  States,  and  two  very  splendid  paintingp — one  the 
descent  from  the  cross,  by  Paulin  Guerin,  a  present  from 
Louis  XVI. — another,  presented  by  Louis  XVII.,  repre- 
senting St.  Louis,  attended  by  his  chaplain  and  armor- 
bearer,  burying  one  of  his  officers  slain  before  Tunis,  as  an 
encouragement  to  his  officers  and  soldiers,  who,  for  fear 


*  (i 


:■; 


^i 


■  i  1 


l( 


44 


^■' 


BALTIMORE. 


|. 


of  contagion,  would  have  left  their  comrades  to  be  de- 
voured by  beasts  and  birds  of  prey.* 

The  Merchants*  Exchange,  built  by  private  subscrip- 
tion, is  another  monument  to  the  public  spirit  of  the  citi- 
zens. Til's  edifice,  from  Water  to  Second,  fronting  on 
Gay-street,  is  255  by  a  depth  on  the  two  first  of  141  feet, 
and  is  three  stories  high  exclusive  of  the  basement.  In 
the  centre  is  the  great  hall,  86  feet  by  53,  lighted  from 
the  dome,  which  is  90  feet  from  the  floor.  In  this  hall, 
to  which  they  have  access  by  three  entrances  from  the 
streets,  the  merchants  convene  daily  from  1  to  2  o'clock. 

The  Battle  Monument,  an  elegant  marble  structure 
about  55  feet  high,  was  commenced  on  the  site  of  the 
old  court  house  in  Washington  Square,  in  1815,  in  mem- 
ory of  those  who,  on  the  12th  and  13th  of  September  in 
the  preceding  year,  had  fallen  gallantly  in  defence  of  the 
city. 

The  Washington  Monument,  built  of  white  marble, 
ornamental  to  the  city  and  honorable  to  its  inhabitants, 
stands  on  an  elevation  a  little  north  of  the  compact  part 
of  the  city.  The  base  is  50  feet  square  and  23  high,  on 
which  is  placed  another  square  of  about  half  the  extent 
and  elevation.  On  this  is  a  column  20  feet  in  diameter 
at  the  base,  ard  14  at  the  top.     The  colossal  statue  of 


*  It  was  in  this  Cathedral  that  the  funeral  honors  were 
paid  to  Charles  Carroll,  of  CarroUton,  the  last  surviving 
signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  He  died  in 
the  city  on  the  I3th  Nov.  1832,  and  his  remains  were 
conveyed  for  interment  to  the  vault  on  the  premises  of 
the  family  mansion,  about  16  miles  distant. 


1 


BALTIMORK. 


45 


les  to  be  de- 
rate subscrip- 
rit  of  the  citi- 
l,  fronting  on 
jt  of  141  feet, 
asement.     In 
lighted  from 
In  this  hall, 
ices  from  the 
L  to  2  o'clock, 
irble  structure 
lie  site  of  the 
815,  in  mem- 
September  in 
iefence  of  the 

white  marble, 
s  inhabitants, 
compact  part 
d  23  high,  on 
alf  the  extent 
et  in  diameter 
)ssal  statue  of 


a.1  honors  were 
last  surviving 
,  He  died  in 
remains  were 

he  premises  of 


Washington,  the  largest  one  in  modern  ages,  is  placed  on 
the  summit,  163  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail  Road  commences  a 
short  distance  from  the  Washington  turnpike  road  on 
West  Pfatt  street,  where  the  company  have  established 
a  depot.  Under  the  authority  given  by  the  City  Council, 
a  line  of  mihvay  has  also  been  laid  from  the  termination 
of  the  main  stem  of  the  road,  at  the  Depot,  down  Pratt 
street  to  the  Basin,  whence  it  is  constructed  to  the  City 
Block;  and  runs  parallel  with  the  entire  water  front  of 
the  city,  communicating  with  the  wharves,  and  intersect- 
ing all  the  principal  streets  which  extend  northwesterly 
and  southerly,  as  far  down  as  the  public  property  south 
of  Jones'  Falls,  at  which  place  there  have  been  conveyed 
to  the  company,  by  the  Corporation  of  Baltimore,  two 
squares  of  ground,  favorably  situated  for  the  convenient 
and  economical  transaction  of  an  extensive  commerce. 
An  uninterrupted  communieation  is  thus  opened  along 
the  whole  extent  of  the  road,  between  the  Port  of  Balti- 
more and  the  Potomac  river  at  Harper's  Ferry,  a  distance 
of  67  miles  ;  which  is  extended,  by  means  of  the  Win- 
chester and  Potomac  rail  road,  30  miles  farther  in  a 
southwesterly  direction  to  Winchester,  Virginia.  There 
is  also  a  lateral  road,  2  or  3  miles  long,  from  Harper's 
Ferry  to  the  city  of  Frederick. 

A  double  track  .las  been  laid  most  of  the  way  to  Fred- 
erick, and  the  travelling  and  transportation  have  thus  far 
fully  equalled  the  anticipations  of  the  stockholders. 

A  ride  as  far  at  least  as  Ellicott's  Mills,  13  miles  from 
Baltimore,  is  considered  almost  a  matter  of  course  by 
strangers  visiting  the  city.     The  scenery  on  the  route. 


■V*, 


46 


BALTIMORE. 


h 


II 


!l 


'•■  1 


i 


being  mostly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Patapsco  river,  is  pic 
turcsque  and  interesting.  Among  the  woriin  connected 
with  the  road,  the  Carrollton  Viaduct^  over  Gwynn's 
Falls,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  city,  is  one  of  the 
most  ma^niilcent  pieces  of  architecture  in  America. 
This  bridge,  built  of  granite,  contains  one  arch  of  about 
80  feet  span  and  40  feet  in  height,  and  ic  312  feet  in 
length  from  end  to  end  uf  the  parapets. 

The  Jackson  Bridge^  is  a  single  arch  109  feet  long. 
The  Deep  Cut  tlirough  a  high  and  broad  ridge  of  land,  is 
about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest  depth 
70  feet,  and  its  width,  at  the  summ't  of  the  ridge.  184 
feet.  The  Great  Embankment  at  Gidsby^s  Run,  5  miles 
from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest 
elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest  width  191  feet.  Gads- 
by^s  Run  Viaduct  affords  a  passage  to  the  aters  of  the 
run  through  the  embankment.  The  arch,  composed  of 
dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extraordinary  width  of 
120  feet  from  opening  to  opening.  The  Patterson  Via- 
duct  is  an  immense  structure  by  which  the  road  is 
carried  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Patapsco.  It  is  built 
of  granite  blocks,  from  I  to  7  tons  in  weight,  and  its  entire 
length  is  375  feet.  It  has  4  beautiful  arches,  the  two 
centre  ones  each  a  span  of  55  feet,  with  extensive  wings 
and  water  walls,  abutments,  &/C.  Tlie  height  from  the 
water  to  the  crown  of  the  arches  is  30  feet.  Besides 
these  are  the  embankments  at  Stilihouse  Run,  two  granite 
viaducts,  the  rock-side  cutting  at  Buzzard's  Rock,  &c. 

The  Baltim  RE  and  Susquehannah  Rail  Road,  ex- 
tending from  Baltimore  to  York  Haven,  on  the  Susque- 
hannah river,  a  distance  of  60  miles,  is  also  a  work  of 


f    i 


-^ 


BALTIMORK. 


47 


ver,  is  pic- 
conncctcd 
r  Gwynn's 
one  of  the 
America, 
ch  of  about 
312  feet  in 

I  feet  long. 
3  of  land,  is 
!atest  depth 
3  ridge,  184 
lun,  5  miles 
its  greatest 
feet.     Gads. 
aters  of  the 
composed  of 
ry  width  of 
tier  son  Via- 
the  road  is 
It  is  built 
nd  its  entire 
,cs,  the  two 
msive  wings 
ht  from  the 
it.      Besides 
two  granite 
Rock,  &c. 
L  Road,  ex- 
the  Susque- 
a  work  of 


much  utility  to  the  city,  and  worthy  the  attention  of 
tourists.  ' 

PciJLic  HoisEs.  The  City  Hotel  is  one  of  the  most 
splendid  edifices  of  its  kind  in  the  union.  It  is  centrally 
and  most  conveniently  situated,  presenting  a  front  on 
Calvcrt-strcct  of  117  feet,  and  running  back  183.  It  con- 
tains 172  apartments,  and  was  built  expressly  for  a  hotel, 
under  the  direction  of  its  experienced  proprietor,  Mr. 
Karnum.  In  the  basement  of  the  building  on  Calvert, 
street  is  situated  the  Post  Office,  into  which  tiic  traveller 
may  deposit  his  letters  by  a  conduit  from  the  large  Read, 
ing  Room  above.  To  all  other  conveniences  combined 
in  this  cstablislmicnt  which  travellers  can  desire,  is  added 
an  observatory  on  the  top  of  it,  affording  to  its  guests 
views  of  the  Harbor  and  Fort  M'Henry,  the  town,  and 
the  country  seats  that  surround  it. 

The  Indian  Queen,  the  next  largest  establishment,  is 
well  and  liberally  kept  by  Mr.  Beltzhover,  its  obliging 
and  popular  tenant. 

The  environs  of  Baltimore  are  generally  much  admired 
by  visitants.  A  succession  of  elevated  sites  rising  one 
above  another,  encircle  it  from  the  Philadelphia  road  on 
the  east  to  the  Washington  turnpike  on  the  west.  From 
these  eminences  the  stranger  obtains,  at  a  single  coup 
d^asil,  a  view  of  the  town  and  its  numerous  approaches 
by  land  and  water. 

Some  oi  these  heights  are  c::\vncd  with  private  resi- 
dences, displaying  all  the  taste  and  magnificence  that 
characterize  the  seats  of  European  opulence  and  refine- 
ment.    Of  these,  the  most  expensively  embellished  and 

conspicuous  is  "  Green  Mount,"  the  elegant  summer  re- 

d2 


'  III: 


'tl       (i! 


48 


BALTIMORE   TO    rH'T  \DELPHIA, 


treat  of  a  gentleman  whose  taste  and  hospitality  happily 
correspond  with  his  ample  possessions. 

FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

There  are  two  routes — one  via  Frunclitown  and  New- 
Castle  ;  and  the  other  via  Havre.de-Grace  and  Wilming- 
ton.     We  subjoin  a  sketch  of  both. 

By  way  of  Frenchtown  and  New-Castle — 115  miles. 
The  route  is  by  steamboat  and  rail  road,  as  follows ; 


Miles 
By  steamboat. 
From  Baltimore  to  Fort 

M'Henry, 3 

Sparrow's  Point, G 

North  Point, 4 

Miller's  Island, 8 

Pool's  Island, 8 

Grove  Point, 16 

Turkey  Point, 6 

Frenchlown, 13 


Miles. 
By  rail  road 
From  Frenchtovvn,  Md. 

to  New-Castle,  Del..  16 
By  steamboat. 

Christiana  Creek,  Del..  5 

Marcus  Hook,  Penn...  8 

Chester, •  4 

Lazaretto, 5 

Fort  Mifflin, 5 

Philadelphia, 8 


m        ( 


The  course  of  the  steamboat  is  down  the  Patapsco  river 
to  its  entrance  into  the  Chesapeake  Biy.  This  Bay  is 
180  miles  long,  and  varies  from  IC  to  25  miles  in  breadth, 
dividing  the  states  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  into  two 
parts,  called  the  eastern  and  western  shores.  It  has  nu- 
merous commodious  harbors,  and  affords  a  safe  navigation. 
Among  llic  waters  which  flow  into  it,  besides  the  Potaps- 
CO,  arc  the  Susquehannah,  Potomac,  Rappahannock,  York 
and  James  rivers. 

North  Point,  13  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  the  spot 
where  the  British  troops  landed  in  September,  1814,  and 
where  a  battle  was  fought,  simultaneous  with  a  naval  at- 
tack on  Fort  M'Henry.    The  engagement  resulted  in 


m; 


Sf 


**-. 


•f  i 


VIA    NF.W-CASTLK. 


49 


lity  happily 

LiPHIA. 

1  and  New- 
id  Wilming- 

115  miles, 

s  follows : 

Miles. 

road 

)wn,  Md. 

tie,  Del..  16 

mboat. 

!ek,  Del..  5 
Pcnn...  8 
4 

,••••••••        i* 

5 

8 

•^atapsco  river 

This  Bay  is 

cs  in  breadth, 

,nd  into  two 

It  has  nu- 

e  navigation. 

s  the  Potaps- 

nnock,  York 

is  the  spot 

?r,  1814,  and 

a  naval  at- 

[t  resulted  in 


the  defeat  of  the  British,  and  the  death  of  their  comman. 
der,  (ien.  Russ. 

From  this  point  until  reaching  Turk<*y  Point,  at  the 
mjulh  of  Elk  river,  the  Ches-apcake  presents  a  broad  ex- 
pause  and  beautiful  siieet  of  water,  interspersed  with  an 
oceasional  island ;  of  which  Pool's  is  the  largest  and  the 
most  picturesque.  On  approaching  the  mouth  of  Elk 
river,  the  broad  entrance  of  the  Susquehannah  is  seen  at 
he  left ;  near  which  is  discerned  the  village  of  Havre-dc- 
Grace,  which  was  burnt  during  the  last  war.  Eight 
miles  from  Turkey  Point,  up  the  Elk  river,  the  entrance 
of  Back  creek,  connected  with  the  Chesapeake  and  Del- 
aware Canal,  a  very  expensive  and  magnificent  work,  is 
seen  at  the  right. 

At  Frcnchtown,  passengers  leave  the  steamboat  (their 
baggage  having  been  previously  placed  in  baggage  wag- 
gone)  and  take  the  carriag-^js  of  the  Rail  Road,  which  ex- 
tends to  Ncw-Castle,  on  the  Delaware,  a  distance  of  16 
miles,  being  but  853  yards  n\orc  than  would  bo.  a  perfect- 
ly straight  line  drawn  from  one  to  the  other.  At  two 
points  the  excavation  was  attended  with  great  difficul- 
ty and  expense,  especially  at  the  western  termination  of 
the  road,  where  the  cutting  was  37  feet  deep,  through  a 
solid  mass  of  tough  red  and  black  clay  for  a  considerable 
distance. 

The  total  cost  of  the  New  Castle  and  French  Town 
rail  road,  including  the  land  for  its  location,  wharves, 
land  for  depots  at  both  ends,  locomotive  engines,  passen- 
ger and  burthen  cars  sufficient  to  put  it  in  compiote  ope- 
ration, with  a  single  track  and  the  requisite  number  of 


V 


r* 


s»^ 


BALTIMORK    TO  PIIIJ.ADKLPIIIA. 


turn  oTits,  has  been  estimated  at  abont  /o7«r  hnndi 
aand  dollars. 

The  ancient  town  of  Nkw  Castlf,  at  which 
terminates,  still  retains  one  of  its  original  buildi 
date  of  which,  in  figures  of  iron  on  the  gable  em 
that  it  was  erected  in  1G87.  The  town  was  nc 
the  Swedes,  many  of  whoso  descendants  still  cor 
reside  there,  and  retain  the  plain  frank  maimers  ar 
ing  habits  of  their  ancestors. 

At  New  Castle,  a  steamboat  is  again  taken,  wl 
ceeds  up  the  Delaware  35  miles,  passing  the  citj 
mington,  which  is  seen  at  a  distance  on  the  left, 
villages  of  Chester,  Lazaretto,  Fort  Mifflin  on  an  i 
the  Delaware,  and  Gloucester,  to  Philadelphia. 

From   Baltimore  to   Philadelphia^  via  Havre  d 

and  Wilmington — 94  miles. 

The  route  is  by  rail  road,  as  follows  : 

Miles. 
From   Baltimore   to 

Havre  De  Grace, 32 

Port  Deposit, 5 

Gunpowder  river,  emptying  into  the  Chesapea 
is  crossed  on  a  bridge  1  mile  long,  11  miles  froi 
more ;  and  Bush  river,  8  miles  further,  is  cross 
similar  manner. 

Havre  De  Grace,  (Md.)  32  miles  from  Balti 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Susquchannah  river,  at  lU 
cnce  with  the  Chesapeake.     It  contains  a  bank, 
place  of  some  trade. 

Between  Havre  De  Grace  and  Port  Deposit, 
at  the  lowest  falls  of  the  Susquchannah,  the  river 


Elkton, 

Wilmington, . 
Philadelphia, 


i  t:\ 


)  PIIII.ADELPIHA. 

id »t  aboot  four  hundred  thwi- 

w  Captlk,  at  which  the  road 
2  of  its  original  buildings,  the 
[  iron  on  the  gable  cud,  hIiows 
7.  The  town  was  settled  by 
e  descendants  still  continue  to 
plain  frank  maimers  and  think- 

8. 

boat  is  again  taken,  which  pro- 
miles,  passing  the  city  of  Wil- 
a  distance  on  the  left,  and  the 
tto,  Fort  Mifflin  on  an  island  in 
stcr,  to  Philadelphia. 

adclphia,  via  Havre  de  Grace 
ngton — 94  miles. 

1,  as  follows  : 

Miles. 

Elkton, 11 

Wilminjrton 1» 

.     Philadelphia, ^^ 

/ing  into  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 

mile  long,  U  miles  from  Balti- 

miles  further,  is  crossed  in  a 

1.)  32  miles  from  Baltimore,  is 
fsquchannah  river,  at  its  conHu- 
It  contains  a  bank,  and  is  a 

lace  and  Port  Deposit,  localed 
lusquchannah,  the  river  is  cross. 


s. 

>2 

15 


VIA    WlLMINaXOK. 

ed  in  a  steamboat,  in  which  time  ant 
given  to  passengers  for  rcfreslnnent. 

Elkton,  tlie  capital  of  Cecil  count/, 
the  forks  of  the  Elk  river,  13  miies  abovi 
the  Chesapeake  Bay.     The  tide  flows 
affordinor  a  navigable  intercourse  with 
folk,  &c. 

TnK  CiTV  OF  Wilmington,  18  miles 
of  entry,  and  the  largest  town  in  tlic  stl 
It  is  situated  between  Christiana  and  Bra 
one  mile  above  their  confluence,  and  tw 
the  Delaware  river.     Its  pooition  is  higli 
tnt,  and  its  streets  are  laid  out  with  niuc. 
taste.     The  facilities  afforded  here  make 
manufacturing  town  ;  it  having  some  of 
ing  mills  and  cotton  factories  in  the  uni( 
from  10  to  12,000  inhabitants,  a  spacioui 
banks,  a  United  States  arsenal,  and  9  chi 
cient  building,  called  tlie  old  Swedish  ch 
1698,  stands  near  the  Christiana  creek  in 
posite  to  which  is  an  ancient  church  y; 
first  settlers  of  the  place.     It  contains  a  f 
the  inscriptions  of  which  are  nearly  dcfat 
of  time. 

Within  five  miles  of   the  city,  in  a  ] 
and  rural  country,  are  the  Brandywine 
Springs.     It  is  a  place  of  very  conside 
health  and  pleasure  during  the  warm  seai 


I 


Ill 


52 


PHILADELPHIA. 


6    ■,' 


I  ; 


♦^rf 


I' 


! 


It 


PHILADELPHIA, 

The  capital  of  Pennsylvania,  is  28  miles  from  Wil- 
mington.  It  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Delaware  riv- 
er, five  miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  Schuylkill,  which 
forms  its  western  boundary.  The  city  was  founded  in 
1682,  and  incorporated  in  1701.  The  charter  being  ab- 
rogated  at  the  revolution,  it  remained  under  a  provincial 
government  till  1789,  when  it  was  incorporated  a  second 
time.  Its  population  in  1830,  including  its  suburbs,  was 
167,811.  It  is  now  about  220,000.  The  city  is  built  on 
streets  from  50  to  100  feet  in  width,  running  parallel  and 
at  right  angles  to  each  other.  They  are  handsomely 
paved  and  are  kept  remarkably  clean.  The  houses  ex- 
hibit an  appearance  of  neatness,  uniformity  and  commo- 
diousness,  and  many  of  them  are  ornamented  with  white 
marble.  Opposite  the  city,  the  Delaware,  which  is  90 
miles  distant  from  the  sea,  is  about  a  mile  wide,  and  is 
navigable  for  ships  of  a  large  size.  The  most  conspicu- 
ous buildings  are  the  churches,  the  state  house,  the  United 
States  and  Pennsylvania  Banks,  the  Girard  Bank,  and 
the  Institution  for  the  Deai  and  Dumb.  The  Bank  of  the 
United  States  was  established  in  the  year  1816,  with  a 
capital  of  $35,000,000 ;  but  its  charter  not  having  bech 
renewed  at  its  expiration  in  1836,  it  was  incorporated  by 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania  in  the  early  part  of  that  year. 
The  banking  house  is  a  splendid  structure,  built  on  the 
plan  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  and  is  situated  on  a 
north  and  south  direction,  fronting  on  Chcsnut  and  Li- 
brary streets,  having  8  gigantic  fluted  columns,  embrac- 
ing the  whole  front.     From  e»".h  of  the  fronts  are  spa- 


,^- 


m 


M 


^:- 


PHILADELPHIA. 


53 


!s  from  Wil- 
Delaware  riv- 
uylkill,  which 
Ls  founded  in 
•ter  being  ab- 
r  a  provincial 
ated  a  second 
;  suburbs,  was 
•ity  is  built  on 
ig  parallel  and 
e  handsomely 
he  houses  ex- 
y  and  commo- 
ted with  white 
;,  which  is  90 
e  wide,  and  is 
ost  conspicu- 
ise,  the  United 
ird  Bank,  and 
Ihe  Bank  of  the 
Ir  1816,  with  a 
,t  having  been 
corporated  by 
of  that  year, 
■e,  built  on  the 
situated  on  a 
icsnut  and  Li- 
mns, embrac- 
'ronts  are  spa- 


cious porticos.  The  whole  length  of  the  edifice  is  161 
feci,  and  its  breadth  in  front  87  feet.  The  main  entrance 
is  from  Chrsnut  street,  by  a  flight  of  marble  steps. 

There  are  in  this  city  80  houses  for  pubUc  worship  ;  16 
banks,  a  custom  house,  an  exchange,  and  a  chamber  of 
commerce. 

The  New  Bank  of  Pennsylvania,  in  Chesnut  street, 
is  an  extensive  and  elegant  edifice  of  marble,  of  the  Ionic 
order,  and  constructed  after  the  model  of  the  ancient 
temple  of  the  muses,  on  the  Ilyssus. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  in  Pine  street,  is  one  of 
the  oldest  and  most  respectable  institutions  of  that  de- 
ficription  in  the  union. 

Independence  Hall,  in  which  the  continental  congress 
sat,  and  from  whence  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
issued,  is  still  standing.     It  is  located  in  Chesnut  street, 
is  built  of  brick,  comprising  a  centre  and  two  wings,  and 
has  undergone  no  material  alteration  since  its  first  erec- 
tion.    It  is  surmounted  by  a  dome,  having  a  clock,  the 
dial  of  which  being   glass,  is  illuminated  at  night  until 
10  or  11  o'clock,  showing  the  hour  and  minutes  until  that 
'time.     Tlic  front  receding  some  distance  from  the  street, 
affords  ti  space  for  an  ample  walk,  which  is  shaded  by  two 
elegant  rows  of  trees.     East  of  the  main  entrance,  in  the 
front  room,  the  sessions  of  congress  were  held,  and  the 
question  of  independence  decided.     The  declaration  was 
first  publicly  read  from  the  balcony  fronting  the  spacious 
park  in  tho  rear. 

The  Arcade  contains  Peale's  Museum,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  United  States,  comprising  the  most  complete  skel- 


sy 


M 


PHILADELPHIA. 


'       ,    is- 


K:  r 


II-  "' 


eton  of  the  Mammolh  perhaps  in  the  world.    It  was 

found  in  Ulster  county,  New- York.       -     ° 

The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  in  Chesnut-street,  con- 
tains a  large  number  of  paintings,  several  of  which  are 
the  property  of  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Among  these  is  one, 
executed  by  David,  representing  Napoleon  crossing  the 
Alps.  Another  is  a  full  length  portrait  of  Joseph  himself, 
as  king  of  Spain. 

The  U.  S.  Mint,  established  here,  is  anew  and  hand- 
some edifice  recently  constructed  for  that  purpose. 

The  City  Library  was  first  established  through  the 
enterprise  and  influence  of  Franklin  in  1731.  It  is 
located  in  a  neat  and  ornamontal  edifice  on  the  east  side 
of  Fifth  street,  opposite  the  State  House  Square,  and 
contains  about  24,000  volumes,  besides  the  Loganian 
library  of  ancient  classics  of  about  J  1,000  volumes,  under 
the  ^ame  roof. 

The  Atheneum,  on  the  second  floor  of  the  Philosophical 
Hall  in  Fifth-street,  contains  5300  volumes  and  a  variety 
of  newspapers  from  various  parts  of  the  union.  There 
are  also  deposited  here  a  series  of  rare  and  valuable 
pamphlets,  forming  lOO  volumes,  which  belonged  to 
Doct.  Franklin ;  many  of  which  are  enriched  with  his 
MS.  notes.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  this  institution, 
on  oeing  introduced  by  a  subscriber,  and  a  register  of 
their  names  is  kept. 

The  American  Philosophical  Society  was  founded  in 
1743,  principally  by  the  exertions  of  Doct.  Franklin. 
The  members  have  a  large  and  commodious  building 
on  a  part  of  the  State  House  Square,  in  which  they  have 
deposited  about  6000  volumes  of  Suable  books,  and  a 


I  ,' 


PHILADELPHIA. 


55 


1.    It  was 

freet,  con- 
which  are 
lese  is  one, 
ossing  the 
ph  himself, 

and  hand- 
»ose. 

irough  the 
31.     It  is 

ic  east  side 


^uare, 


and 


Loganian 
mes,  under 

lilosophical 
d  a  variety 
)n.     There 

valuable 
longed    to 

with  his 
institution, 
register  of 

founded  in 
Franklin, 
building 
L  they  have 
oks,  and  a 


collection  of  objects  of  natural  history,  consisting  princi- 
pally of  minerals  and  fossil  remains. 

The  University  of  Pennsylvania  in  situated  in  Ninth- 
street,  between  Chcrr.iit  and  Market  streets.  It  was 
founded  in  1750,  and  is  in  a  highly  prosperous  and  flour 
ishing  condition. 

GiRARD  College.  This  splendid  edifice  is  situated  on 
the  Ridge  Road,  on  a  site  owned  by  the  late  Sirsphen 
Girard,  and  devised  by  him  for  that  purpose.  To  his 
munificence,  indeed,  arc  the  public  indebted  for  the  struc- 
ture and  for  a  fund  for  its  maintenance.  The  building 
is  111  by  1()9  feet,  3  stories  high,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
portico  21  feet  wide,  gi. iiig  to  the  whole  a  neatness  and 
elegance  highly  creditable  to  tin;  taste  of  those  who 
had  tilt  management  of  its  construction. 

Wills'  Hosri  i'al,  erected  pursuant  to  the  will  of  tho 
late  James  Wills,  for  the  reception  of  the  lame  and  blind, 
is  located  on  Race  street,  between  Schuylkill  Fourth  and 
Fifth  streets,  and  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice,  80  feet 
in  front. 

The  United  States'  Naval  Asylum  is  situated  on  the 
river  Schuylkill,  a  short  distance  below  the  junction  of 
South  street  with  Gray's  ferry  road.  It  is  385  feet  in 
front,  including  a  central  building,  and  is  an  imposing 
and  chaste  edifice.  It  is  designed  as  a  place  of  permanent 
abode  for  such  of  the  ofHcers,  seamen  and  marines  of  the 
navy  as  may  need  a  home  in  their  retirement  from  its  ser- 
vice.     It  is  sufficiently  capacious  to  accommodate  400. 

The  New  Alms  House  consists  of  four  distinct  edifices 
disposed  at  right  angles  with  one  another,  enclosing  an 
interior  space  of  700   by   500   feet.    The    location  of 


II 


(■(■Ji     ,.\i' 


»ii". 


f    1 


r  iii 


ih      ^'* 


'    ii'M.lH 


iji       '.'i 


^  f  t 


56 


PHILADELPHIA. 


these  buildings  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Schuylkill 
river.  The  grounds  appended  to  the  establishment  are 
spacious,  and  the  arrangements  such  as  might  be  antici- 
pated from  the  hospitality  and  benevolence  for  which  the 
inhabitants  of  this  cuy  have  become  so  proverbial. 

The  Philadelphia  Exchange  is  situated  on  a  triangular 
piece  of  ground,  bounded  by  Third,  Walnut  and  Dock 
streets,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of 
Grecian  architecture  ever  executed  in  America,  repre- 
senting in  its  appearance  the  celebrated  Lantern  of 
Demosthenes  at  Athens.  The  basement  contains  the 
post  office  and  several  insurance  and  other  offices.  The 
exchange  room.,  which  is  bold  and  effective,  occupies  the 
eastern  end  of  the  principal  story,  and  is  approached  by 
steps  on  each  side  of  the  semicircular  basement,  and 
from  the  hall  in  thf  basement  story.  The  eastern  portico 
forms  an  interesting  promenade  for  those  who  visit  the 
Exchange.  From  it  may  be  seen  the  shipping  at  Wal- 
nut street  wharf,  the  cuntom  house,  the  Girard  bank, 
and  the  Pennsylvania  l^ank.  Omnibuses  can  be  taken 
from  this  poii  it  at  all  times  for  various  parts  of  the  city. 

Besides  the  public  buildings  already  noticed,  are  the 
Orphan  Asylum,  in  Cherry  street ;  the  Pennsylvania  In- 
stitution for  the  Blind,  Race]  street ;  Orphan  Asyium  of 
St.  Joseph's,  Spruce  street ;  Pennsylvania  Institution  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  on  Broad  and  Pine  streets ;  Hall 
of  the  Franklin  Institute,  Seventh  street ;  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences,  Twelfth  street ;  Jefferson  College, 
Tenth  street ;  Musical  Fund  Hall,  Locust  street ;  The- 
atre, Walnut  street;  Theatre,  Arch  street;  Museum, 
Eighth  and  Sanaom  streets,  &-c, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


57 


3  Schuylkill 
ishment  are 
ht  be  antici- 
)r  which  the 
vcrhial. 
a  triangular 
t  and  Dock 
pecirnens  of 
erica,  reprc- 
Lantern  of 
jontains  the 
ffices.  The 
occupies  the 
jroached  by 
lament,  and 
3tcrn  portico 
tio  visit  the 
>ing  at  Wal- 
irard  bank, 
n  be  taken 
;he  city, 
ed,  arc  the 
sylvania  In- 
Asyiiim  of 
ititution  for 
:eets ;  Hall 
Icademy  of 
n  College, 
reet ;  The- 
Museum, 


Of  the  public  works  of  Philadelphia,  there  are  none  of 
which  its  inhabitants  arc  more  justly  proud  than  those  at 
Fair  Mount,  by  which  the  city  is  supplied  with  water  of 
the  best  quality  in  the  greatest  plenty.  Fair  Mount  is  in 
the  rear  of  the  city,  upon  the  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  the 
neighborho'^d  of  which  affords  a  variety  of  romantic 
scenery.  The  situation  is  such  as  peculiarly  tvdapts  it  for 
the  purpose  to  wiiich  it  has  been  devoted.  The  reservoirs 
arc  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill  rising  from  the  river,  a 
part  of  it  perpendicular  rock,  upv/ards  of  one  hundred 
feet.  Tiie  ascent  from  the  rivei  to  the  reserv^oir  is  by  a 
flight  of  substantial  steps,  with  resting  places.  The  res. 
crvoirs,  wbicii  are  surrounded  with  a  fence,  outside  of 
which  is  a  gravelled  walk,  contain  upwards  of  twelve  mil- 
lions of  gallons,  supplying  tiie  city  through  between  15 
and  20  miles  of  pipes.  The  water  is  raised  by  machinery 
propelled  by  the  Schuylkill.  The  speed  of  the  wheels  may 
be  graduated  to  any  required  number  of  revolutions  per  mi- 
nute ;  and  if  all  are  in  motion,  they  will  raise  7,000,000 
gallons  in  24  hours.  The  whole  expense  of  these  works, 
including  estimated  cost  of  works  abandoned,  was  $1,- 
783,000.  That  required  to  keep  them  in  operation  is 
comparatively  tr  ling.  The  quantity  of  water  thus  dis- 
seminated tlirough  the  city,  is  not  only  sufficient  for  every 
family,  but  is  used  +o  wash  tlie  streets.  It  is  of  immense 
service  in  case  of  iire,  as  it  is  only  necessay  to  screv/  the 
hose  to  hydrants,  which  are  placed  at  convenient  dis- 
tances, to  secure  a  constant  stream  of  Bufficiont  force  to 
reach  an  ordinary  height. 


'^'1 


1*5 


h      ;  U 


i! 


5    il:  m 


h     ■■!'    »i! 


£8 


FIIILADELPIIIA. 


The  New  Penitentiary,  located  on  elevated  ground 
near  the  city,  is  designed  to  carry  the  principle  of  solitary 
confinement  completely  into  effect.  Ten  acres  of  land 
are  occupied  for  the  purpose,  forming  a  square  of  650  feet 
each  way,  and  enclosed  by  massy  walls  of  granite  35  feet 
high,  with  towers  and  battlements.  The  j)rison  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  square,  and  is  admirably  calculated  for  the 
purpose  for  which  it  was  designed.  The  expense  incurred 
in  its  erection  was  upwards  of  ^300,000. 

The  principal  Hotels  in  the  city  are  ihe  United  States 
Hotel,  opposite  the  U.  S.  Bank  in  Chesnut  street ;  Con- 
gress  Hall,  Chesnut  street,  near  Third  ;  Tremont  House, 
between  Third  and  Fourth  streets ;  City  Hotel,  Third 
street,  between  Market  and  Arch ;  North  American  Ho- 
tel, Chesnut  street,  between  Sixth  and  Seventh ;  Mansion 
House  Hotel,  Third  street,  between  Walnut  and  Spruce ; 
Commercial  Hotel,  Chesnut  street;  Indian  Queen  Ho- 
tel, Fourth  street ;  Washington  Hotel,  do. ;  Philadelphia 
Hotel,  Second  street ;  Third  Street  House,  Third  street ; 
Broad  Street  House,  Broad  street ;  Philadelphia  House, 
Chesnut  street. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  near  Philadelphia,  contain 
numerous  elegant  country  seats,  and  several  public  build- 
ings. Amf:  ig  the  private  residences,  none  are  perhaps 
more  justly  admired  than  that  of  Henry  Pratt,  Esq.  on 
Lemon  Hill.  The  Mansion  House  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  directly  above  the  Fair 
Mount  Water  Works,  about  a  mile  from  the  city.  Con- 
nected with  the  mansion  arc  gardens  of  the  most  exten- 
sive kind,  laid  out  in  a  stylo  of  much  elegance  and  taste. 
To  these  gardens  respectable  citizens  and  strangers  have 


It 


ited  ground 
Ic  of  solitary 
cres  of  land 
e  of  650  feet 
anite  35  feet 
son  is  in  the 
lated  for  the 
nse  incurred 

■nited  States 
street;  Con- 
nont  House, 
iotel,  Third 
merican  Ho- 
th;  Mansion 
and  Spruce ; 

Queen  Ho- 
Philadelphia 

hird  street ; 
phia  House, 

)hia,  contain 
3ublic  build- 
are  perhaps 
itt,  Esq.  on 
ted  on  the 
vc  the  Fair 
city.  Con- 
nost  cxten- 
e  and  taste, 
ngcrs  have 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS. 


59 


free  access ;  and  a  ride  to  them  is  among  the  various 
pleasant  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city. 

The  Shot  Tower  of  Mr.  Beck  is  also  an  object  of 
much  curiosity  to  strangers  visiting  Philadelphia.  It 
stands  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  rear  of 
the  city,  and  is  a  lofty  edifice,  from  the  top  of  which  a 
very  extensive  view  can  be  had  of  the  surrounding 
country.  ^ 

The  Penn'  Monument,  commemorative  of  the  spot 
wlicrc  William  Pcnn,  the  founder  of  the  colony  of  Penn- 
sylvania, made  a  treaty  with  *hc  aborigines,  is  near  the 
intersection  of  Beach  and  Hanover  streets. 

Si 

INTERNAL   IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  Union  Canal  commences  near  Reading,  on  the 
Schuylkill  river,  51  miles  northwest  of  Philadelphia,  and 
extends  thence  in  a  westerly  direction  to  Lebanon,  and 
thence  along  the  Switara  creek  to  Middletown,  on  the 
Susquchannah  river,  nine  miles  below  Harrisburgh,  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  state-  The  length  of  the  ca- 
nal is  79  miies  ;  and  by  the  extension  of  a  branch  of  about 
7  miles,  and  the  construction  of  a  rail  road  of  4  miles,  a 
communication  is  had  to  the  "  Coal  Region." 

By  means  of  the  Union  Canal  and  the  Schuylkill  slack 
water  navigation,  there  is  also  a  communication  from  Phil- 
adelpliia  to  the  Susquehannah  river ;  and  this  communi- 
caliun  is  greatly  extended  by  the 

Pennsylvania  Canal,  which  commences  at  Columbia, 
82  miles  northwest  of  Philadelphia,  the  terminating  point 
of  the  Columbia  rail  road  from  that  city,  and  unites  with 
the  Union  Canal  at  Middletown,  18  miles  farther.    From 

e2 


^ 


60 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS. 


t'li 


■J-  -.i 


thence  it  proceeds  in  a  westerly  direction  to  the  Juniata — 
thence  Tip  that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  moun- 
tains, which  are  crossed  by  a  rail  road,  37  miles  long ;  at 
the  end  of  which  the  canal  re-comir.onces,  imiHng  with 
the  Alleghany  and  Ohio  rivers  at  Pittsburg.  The  whole 
length  of  this  canal,  including  the  Columbia  rail  road  and 
th  "ail  r  \  across  the  mountains,  is  395  miles.  After 
rea  .•  fi  f  t>"^  Juniata,  a  singularly  romantic  and  beautiful 
streai,  t -Xi  ^anal  winds  along  a  gentle  and  practicable 
acclivity,  folio  «nig  the  bed  of  the  river  for  nearly  a  hun- 
dred miles.  Two  mighty  ranges  of  mountains  rise  from 
the  limpid  Juniata,  like  two  green  leaves  of  an  immense 
opening  volume.  These  mountains,  apparently  arranged 
to  the  course  of  this  stream,  seem  to  lie  almost  at  right 
angles  to  the  great  parallel  ridges.  The  Juniata  finds  a 
passage  by  a  very  equable  and  gentle  declivity  through 
all  the  mountains  except  the  last  ridge  that  parts  its  waters 
from  those  of  the  Ohio.  More  beautiful  forms  of  moun- 
tains than  those  which  skirt  this  river  can  no  where  be 
seen.  Sometimes,  for  many  miles  together,  they  rise, 
smooth,  verdant  and  unbroken,  by  equable  slopes,  from  the 
very  verge  of  the  stream  to  the  height  of  twelve  hundred 
feet ;  and  here,  apparently,  when  the  fountains  of  the 
great  deep  were  broken  up,  the  rocky  summits  of  the 
mountains  were  dismembered  at  the  same  time.  For 
miles  together,  and  in  many  places  the  whole  sides  of  the 
grand  slope,  from  summit  to  base,  are  sLrown  with  large 
fragments  of  smooth  building  stone  ;  and  it  is  inconceiva- 
ble how  smoothly  and  completely  they  line  the  sides  of 
these  mighty  hills.  Layers  of  these  rocks  cover  thousands 
of  acres,  for  a  depth  apparently  cf  40  or  50  feet ;  and  for 


..■-/»•• 


% 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS. 


61 


3  Juniata — 
my  moun- 
es  long ;  at 
niting  with 
The  whole 
lil  road  and 
iles.    After 
id  beautiful 
practicable 
sarly  a  hun- 
is  rise  from 
n  immense 
ly  arranged 
3st  at  right 
lata  finds  a 
^ity  through 
ts  its  waters 
is  of  moun- 
0  where  be 
,  they  rise, 
Bs,  from  the 
ve  hundred 
ains  of  the 
nits  of  the 
time.     For 
sides  of  the 
with  large 
inconceiva- 
le  sides  of 
thousands 
it ;  and  for 


\ 


a  considerable  distance  the  road  is  formed  by  the  removal 
of  these  layers  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  the  car- 
riage winding  its  way  many  hundred  feet  above  the  canal, 
which  is  perpendicularly  below. 

In  other  places,  more  recent  i/Jdcs  of  the  earth  and 
rocks  from  the  summits  of  the  mountains  have  cut  away 
a  visible  and  uniform  path,  sweeping  trees  and  every  ob- 
stacle before  it,  until  tlic  spoils  are  accumulated  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.  Indeed  every  foot  of  tliis  route  of 
a  hundred  miles  is  enriched  with  scenery  of  u:  xa  'pled 
sublimity;  and  we  can  imagine  no  higher  tr  it  <  the 
tourist  than  a  passage  along  its  banks,  cor-  ^c  ed  with 
tlie  f;rossing  of  the  AllcghanieB,  and  a  trip  to  l    tsNurg. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  state  hr  ^o."ipletud  a 
canal  from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  up  the  Susquohan- 
nah  to  the  forks  at  Northumberland,  39  miles ;  from 
Northumberland  to  Dunnstown,  6G  miles ;  from  North- 
umberland to  Nanticoke  falls,  Gl  miles,  and  a  furtner  ex- 
tension of  the  latter  15  miles.  Also  a  canal  from  Bristol 
to  Easton  on  the  Delaware  river,  60  miles  ;  and  about  74 
miles  of  a  canal  which  is  to  extend  from  Pittsburg  on  the 
Ohio  river  to  Erie,  on  the  lake  of  that  name. 

The  following  canals  belong  to  private  incorporations; 
The  Union  canal,  already  noticed  at  p.  59  ;  the  Schuylkill 
canal,  from  Philadelphia  up  the  Schuylkill  river,  mter- 
secting  the  Union  canal  at  Reading,  to  the  Schuylkill 
coal  mines  at  Mount  Carbon — length,  including  46  miles 
of  slack  water  in  ll)e  river,  108  miles  ;  the  Lehigh  canal, 
from  Easton  on  the  Delaware,  up  the  Lehigh  river  to  the 
coal  mines  at  Mauch  Chunk,  and  from  thence  to  Stod- 
dartsville — length  46  miles ;  a  part  of  the  Hudson  and 


/.-■i-'^^Hi 


■V'*.' 


% 


G2 


PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


i'  I 


>i    '1 


:'  I, 


';'! 


Delaware  canal,  from  Honcsdale  on  the  Lackawaxcn  to 
the  mouth  of  that  stream — about  20  miles ;  Co/.astoga 
Navigation,  an  improvement  of  the  Conestoga  creek  by 
locks  and  dams,  from  its  mouth  to  the  city  of  Lancaster, 
18  miles;  and  the  Codorus  Navigation,  an  improvement 
of  the  Codorus  creek  from  its  mouth  to  the  borough  of 
York,  11  miles.  Making  the  total  distance  of  canal  nav- 
igation now  in  use  in  the  state  about  800  miles. 

The  state  has  also  constructed  the  Columbia,  Allegha- 
ny Portage,  and  Norristown  rail  roads,  which  are  noticed 
in  subsequent  pages  of  this  work. 


ii .  ) 


■  hi,  i: 


ll   '■■■  ■'  '.'   ■ 


•■ft- 


FROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO    PITTSBURG, 

By  rail  road  and  canal. — 391  miles. 
The  intermudiatu  distances  are  an  follow : 


PA. 


Miles.  1 

Miles. 

By  rail  road. 

Port  Dauphin,... 

3 

113 

Fair  Mount, 

1 

Duncan's  Icjland, 

9 

122 

Viaduct  over 

Newport, 

10 

132 

Schuylkill,  .... 

2 

3 

Thompsontown,. . 

11 

143 

Buck  Trv-.  r.i...  .. 

8 
5 

11 
16 

Mexico 

7 
4 

150 

Spread  Kagle, . , . 

MijfHmtown, 

154 

Paoli, 

5 

21 

Lewistown, 

14 

168 

Warren, 

1 

22 

Waynesburgh, . , , 

14 

182 

Valley  Creek 

7 

29 

Aughwick  F's,... 

12 

194 

Downingtown,. . , 

3 

32 

Huntmgdon, 

17 

211 

Coatesville, , 

8 

40 

Peiersburg, 

7 

218 

Gap  Tavern,.... 

11 

51 

Alexandria, 

7 

225 

Mine  Ridge, 

1 

52 

Williamsburgh, , . 

12 

237 

Mill  Creek, 

5 

57 

Frankstown, 

10 

247 

Soudersburgh, . . . 

3 

60 

HoHidaysburg, . . . 

3 

250 

Lancaster, 

9 

69 

By  rail  road. 

Mountjoy, 

12 

81 

Across  Alleghany 

Middletown, 

15 

96 

Mountains  to 

Harrisburgh, 

9 

lOJ 

Johnstown,. . . . 

37 

287 

By  canal. 

By  canal. 

Blue  Mt,  Gap,... 

5 

110 

Laurel  Hill, .... 

7 

294 

^- 


^V¥ 


PHILADELrillA  TO  PITTaDURG. 


68 


iwaxcn  to 
Ccastoga 
I  creek  by 
Lancaster, 
pro  vcmcnt 
borough  of 
canal  nav- 

3. 

a,  AUegha- 
are  noticed 


RG,    PA. 


Miles. 

..  3 
d,  9 

113 

122 

..  10 

132 

..  11 

143 

,.  7 

150 

.  4 

134 

.  14 

168 

..  14 

182 

,.  12 

194 

,.  17 

211 

.  7 

218 

.  7 

225 

.  12 

237 

..  10 

247 

.  3 

250 

oad. 

'y 

,.  37 

287 

il. 

7 

294 

I 


% 


Lockport 10    304 


Chesmit  Hill, 


5     309 


Blainsville, 8     317 

Sall/burff, 16     333 

Warrcntown, . , . .   12     3U 


Mil 


f8. 


Lecchbiirpf, 10    355 

Allr<rhany  Aijuc- 

"  358 
373 
391 


duct, 3 

Loj»an's  Ferry,.,.   15 
Pittsburg, 18 


Tlic  CoLUMiuA  Rail  Road,  which  composes  a  part  of 
this  route,  commcincs  at  the  depot  at  the  intersection  of 
Vint;  and  Broad  streets,  and  extends  up  tlie  valley  of  the 
Schuylkill  througli  Pratt's  Garden  to  the  river,  which  is 
crossed  3  miles  from  the  city,  on  a  handsome  viaduct 
1045  feet  long,  41  feet  wide,  and  30  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  water.  Immediately  succeeding  the  viaduct 
is  an  inclined  plane  2305  feet  long,  rising  1  foot  in  15, 
which  is  surmounted  by  means  of  a  stationary  steam  en- 
gine, placed  at  the  head.  The  line  of  the  'oad  passes 
from  thence  over  an  undulating  surface,  requiring  heavy 
excavations  and  embankments,  through  portions  of  Phila- 
delphia, Montgomery  and  Delaware  counties,  till  it  reach- 
es  the  viaduct  of  Valley  creek,  which  is  a  wooden  struc- 
ture about  600  feet  long,  supported  on  piers  from  35  to 
55  feet  high.  Immediately  beyond  the  viaduct  the  trav- 
eller catches  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Great  Chester  Val- 
ley, long  esteemed  to  be  one  of  tlie  most  beautiful  and 
fertile  sections  of  the  state.  At  the  distance  of  21  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  the  line  is  intersected  by  a  branch 
road  leading  to  Westchester,  the  cost  of  which  was  about 
^85,000.  At  30  miles,  a  little  to  the  south  of  Downing- 
town,  the  road  crosses  the  East  Brandywine  by  a  viaduct 
465  feet  long  and  25  feet  high.  Some  distance  farther, 
the  line  crosses  the  West  Brandywine  by  a  viaduct  835 
feet  long  and  72  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 


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C4 


rillLADELrillA   TO    PITTSBURG. 


Still  ascending  the  main  vall»iy  of  ChcBtcr,  the  line  reach- 
es the  summit,  wliich  tlivitles  it  from  that  of  Lancaster. 
This  place  isknovvn  as  the  Deep  Cut  throujjh  Mine  Hill. 
Thence  descending  the  Lancaster  valley,  the  road  crosses 
the  Pequa,  hy  a  viaduct  150  feet  long  and  24  feet  high 
and  soon  after,  Mill  creek,  by  a  similar  construction  550 
feet  long  and  40  feet  high.  Thence  it  follows  the  gener. 
al  features  of  the  country  till  it  reaches  the  immense  via- 
duct over  Conestoga  river.  The  piers  are  60  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  water,  and  the  whole  length  of  the 
platform  1412  feet.  Not  long  after,  the  road  enters  Lan- 
caster hy  a  high  embankment,  the  materials  of  which 
were  obtained  from  the  deep  rock  cutting  in  the  town. 

Lancaster,  69  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  an  incorpor- 
ated city  and  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  state.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill  one  and  ii  half 
miles  west  of  Conestoga  creek,  which  falls  into  tlie  Sus- 
quehannah  9  miles  below.  Tlie  city  contains  several 
handsome  public  buildings  and  numerous  manufactories, 
4  and  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated 
country.     Its  population  is  between  7  and  8000. 

The  Columbia  rail  road  is  continued  13  miles  from  this 
♦  4^  place  to  the  village  of  Columbia,  on  the  feusquehannah 
river,  where  by  means  of  an  inclined  plane  1800  feet  long, 
it  communicates  with  the  eastern  division  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania canal. 

The  Lancaster  and  Harrisburgh  rail  road,  however,  is 
usually  taken  by  passengers  for  Pittsburgh.     It  reaches 

Harrisburgh  in  a  distance  of  36  miles.  This  village, 
which  contains  the  capitol  of  the  state,  is  regularly  laid 
out  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehannah,  over  which  a 


nilLADEU'lUA   TO    PITTSDURO. 


65 


line  reach- 
Lancaster. 

Mino  Hill, 
road  crosses 
24  feet  high 
truction  550 
rs  the  gener- 
inmcnBC  via- 

0  feet  above 
3ngth  of  the 

1  enters  Lan- 
als  of  which 
in  the  town. 

}  an  intjorpor- 
!  state.  It  is 
ic  and  ii.  half 
into  tlie  Sus- 
tains several 
lanu  factories, 
'y  cultivated 
000. 

[iles  from  this 
usquehannah 
300  feet  long, 
of  the  Penn- 

l,  however,  is 
It  leaches 

|This  village, 
regularly  laid 
over  which  a 


bridge  is  erected,  one  mile  long.  The  village  contains  7 
or  8  public  buildings,  as  many  chiirches,  and  about  4500 
inhabitnnts.  Tbe  capitol  is  Imrdsorncly  situated  on  an 
ominencr,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  town,  river  and 
surrounding  country.  To  the  north  the  mountain  scene- 
ry is  imjmsing,  and  the  opening  or  gaj)  through  which  the 
river  passes  presents  a  beautiful  apj)earance.  'I  he  build- 
ing in  which  tlie  legislature  mv^ets  is  an  extensive  struc- 
ture of  brick,  in  the  centre  of  wliich  is  a  semicircular 
portico  or  entr^'ice,  which  is  approached  by  a  flight  of 
steps.  The  roof  of  the  portico  is  suppoitvd  l.y  six  mass- 
ive columns,  rising  to  the  height  of  the  main  building. 
Trom  tile  portico  there  is  an  entrance  into  the  rotunda  or 
hall  of  the  building  which  separates  the  chambers  of  the 
two  houses.  To  the  right  is  the  hall  of  re|)resentative8 — 
to  the  left  that  of  the  senate.  Immediately  in  front,  as 
you  enter  the  first  hall,  is  the  speaker's  chair,  elevated 
ujjon  a  rostrum  above  those  of  the  clerks,  which  derives 
an  interest  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  same  cliair  in 
which  John  Hancock  first  sat  when  he  was  chosen  Presi- 
dent of  the  continental  congress. 

The  Pennsylvania  Canal,  which  is  here  taken,  has 
already  been  noticed  at  p.  59.  It  passes  along  the  bank 
of  the  Susquchannah  to  its  junction  with  the  Juniata ; 
and  for  rr'les  the  traveller  is  floated  between  the  river 
and  its  lofty  shore,  separated  from  the  former  only  by  the 
breadth  of  th'  tow  path,  which,  on  the  side  towards  the 
river,  is  solid  and  massive  masonry.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  canal  runs  the  turnpike,  and  so  scant  is  the  inter- 
val between  the  river  and  the  shore,  that  for  the  pass:  re 
of  these  thoroughfares  of  trade  and  travel,  the  founda^ 


t 


4 


f 


";    .'lii 


1 

<  < 

•  i '  ^ 

1    ,r     i 

m 

||';m 

1' 

i'il 

11 

i 

ip 

■# 


66 


PHILADELPHIA   TO   PITTSBURG. 


tions  of  the  hills  have  been  cut  away,  and  the  traveller 
sails  alongf  their  bases,  with  the  precipitous  crafrs  impend, 
ing  many  hundred  feet  above  him.  The  whole  number 
of  locks  on  this  canal  are  111 — dams,  18 — aqueducts,  33. 

Lewistown,  53  miles  from  Harrisburjrh,  is  the  capital 
of  Mifflin  county,  and  is  the  most  important  village  pass, 
cd  on  the  route.  It  contains  a  population  of  1500  or  2000 
inhabitants. 

On  reaching  HoUidaysburgh,  the  termination  of  the 
canal  at  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  mountains,  the  trav- 
eller prepares  to  cross  the  mighty  division  of  the  east  and 
V  est — not  in  a  lumbering  coach  drawn  by  wearied  hors- 
es — but  in  a  rail  road  carriage  drawn  by  steam.  The 
change  from  the  sluggish  motion  of  the  boat  to  the  speed 
of  the  car  is  very  acceptable,  and  the  rail  road  over  the 
mountains  proves  an  agreeable  interlude  to  the  monotony 
of  a  canal  passage. 

The  aggregate  of  ascent  and  descent  at  this  point  is 
2570  feet— 1398  of  which  is  on  the  eastern  and  1172  is 
on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain.  The  ascent  is  by  5 
inclined  planes,  of  nearly  a  mile  each  in  length.  On  the 
summit,  in  a  solitude  like  that  of  St.  Bernard  upon  the 
Alps,  stands  a  fine  mansion,  whose  spacious  accommoda- 
tions and  welcome  cheer  invite  an  hour's  delay.  Before 
commencing  the  descent  of  the  mountain,  the  traveller 
comes  to  the  celebrated  tunnel,  hewn  through  the  solid 
rock,  870  feet  long  by  20  feet  in  height,  the  rumbhng 
of  the  cars  through  which  is  like  the  reverberation  of 
distant  thunder.  The  descent  is  then  effected  like  the 
ascent,  by  means  of  5  inclined  planes  of  about  a  mile 
each.   After  leaving  the  fourth,  the  road  crosses  a  stream 


i 


w 


the  traveller 
rags  impend, 
hole  number 
jueducts,  33. 

s  the  capital 

village  pass- 

1500  or  2000 

lation  of  the 
tins,  the  trav- 
the  east  and 
wearied  hors- 
steam.  The 
I  to  the  speed 
road  over  the 
the  monotony 

this  point  is 

and  1172  is 

scent  is  by  5 

|gth.     On  the 

lard  upon  the 

accommoda- 

l^lay.     Before 

the  traveller 

gh  the  solid 

;he  rumbling 

irberation  of 

ted  like  the 

,bout  a  mile 

ises  a  Btream 


I 


\ 


^ 


PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


67 


Upon  a  magnificent  specimen  of  pontic  architecture,  70 
feet  above  the  walcr,  which  it  spans  with  a  single  arch 
of  80  feet.     It  is  beautifully  constructed  of  hewn  stone, 
and   curiously  contrasts  with    tlie  wildnc.^s  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery.     The  last  plane  being  descended,  the 
tourist  soon  tinds  liimself  at  the  termination  of  the  rai! 
road  in  the  village  of  Johnstown,  37  miles  from  its  com- 
mencement.    Hero  a  packet  is  again  taken,  which  enters 
the  western  division  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal ;  which 
follows  tlie  Conemaugh  river  for  a  distance  of  78  miles, 
until  it  intersects  with  the  Alleghany,  which  ternruates 
at  Pittsburg.      It  is  104  miles  long,  has  64  locks,  10 
dams,  2  tunnels,  IG  aqueducts,    94    culverts,   and  152 
bridges.     After   leaving   Jolmsfown,    the    canal   passes 
through  a  tunnel  more  extensive  than  the  one  on  the 
Portage  rail  road.     Tlic  height  of  the  hill  which  it  per- 
forates is  250,  and  the  length  of  tlie  tunnel  917  feet. 
The  traveller,  indeed,  passes  under  'u  improved  farm, 
the  well  attached  to  which  is  directly  over  the  tunnel! 

The  time  employed  in  reaching  Pittsburg  from  Hoi- 
lidaysburgh  is  about  30  hours;  and  from  Philadel])hia 
about  4  1-2  days.  Fare  for  the  whole  distance,  including 
meals,  about  815. 


*. 


w 


C8 


I'HlLADLLPlilA    TO    PITTSBURG. 


i^lil^'i   1 


iiH 


u  • 


FROM   PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG, 

By  rail  road  and  stage — 305  miles. 

INTERMEDIATE  DISTANCES. 

Mihf^. 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
To  Harrisburjr'i,  as  no- 

t.iccd  at,  |).  ()2,..  105 

Chanibersburgli,.    51     156 

By  stages. 
M'ConnclRtown,..  19     175 


Boflford,. . . . . . .,  31 

ShcHsbiirfr, 0 

Slovsto\v:i, 19 

liaufxhlintown,. . ,  16 

(vrceiisbnrf, 23 

Fittsburff, •  32 


2Ufi 
215 
234 
25U 
273 
305 


Tliis  route  is  jx-rformcd  in  about.  3  1-2  days. 

Pitts Buii«,  an  incorporated  city,  is  situated  on  a  beau- 
iiful  plain,  on  a  broad  point  of  land,  where  the  CGnnLicr.CG 
ol  the  AUcfrJiany  and  Monong'ahela  forms  the  Ohio  river. 
The  population  of  the  city  proper  is  about  1 8,000,  and, 
including  the  suburbs,  about  28,000.  It  is  compactly, 
and  in  some  places  handsomely  built ;  though  the  uni- 
versal  use  of  pit  coal  for  manufacturing  and  culinary 
purposes,  has  so  far  blackened  the  exterior  of  every  build- 
ing-.  as  to  give  the  town  a  gloomy  appearance.  Its  posi- 
tion imd  advantages,  however,  will  continue  to  rcnc'or  it 
a  place  of  attraction  for  builders  and  capitalists;  and  it 
has  already  been  very  apprcpriately  tcnned  tlie  Birming- 
ham of  America,  there  being  not  less  that  300  manufac- 
turing establishments,  many  of  which  a  -o  very  extensive. 
Independently  of  the  immcusc  amount  of  iron  wrought  at 
this  place,  boai.  and  steamboat  bailding  have  been  pursued 
on  a  greater  scale  thon  in  any  other  town  in  tho  western 
country.  Small  boats  arc  continually  departing  d-jwii 
the  river  at  all  season^:,  when  the  waters  will  achiiit.  In 
moderate  stages,  great  numbers  of  steamboats  arrive  and 


I 


THE  COAL  M!.\ES. 


GO 


•  n 


BURG, 


Milen. 

31  200 
0  215 

19  234 

16  25U 

23  273 

32  305 


on  a  beau- 

corifiLicncc 

Ohio  river. 

S,000,  and, 

compactly, 

^h  the  uni- 

d  culinary 

ivcry  huild- 

Its  poni- 

1  YCiiCcv  it 

?ts;  and  it 

Birming- 

manufac- 

oxtenpive. 

rouglit  at 

n  piirsiir  d 

"*  western 

wr  d'jwa 

(Iniit.     In 

irrive  and 


depart.  The  city  has  also  immense  advantages  of  artifi- 
cial as  well  as  natural  water  communlcaf  ion^;.  Besides 
the  Pennsylvania  canal,  already  described,  which  termin- 
ates here,  another  c,in?\  is  in  y)rogn;ss  to  connect  it  with 
liake  Erie  tliroutrh  Mcadville,  and  another  proposed  to 
tlu^  mouth  of  tlie  Mohoninjr,  where  it  will  connect  with  a 
branch  of  the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal  from  its  summit  head. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  Pittsburg  are  13  church- 
es, a  university,  higli  school,  exchange,  bank  and  museum. 

From  Pittsburg,  steamboiits  maj>^  be  taken  for  Cincin- 
naJi,  Ohio,  4(55  miles;  to  Louisville.  Ky.,  175  miles  far- 
ther; or  to  New-Orleans,  1400  miles  farther.  The  time 
cm,;)oy('d  '"  reaching  the  latter  place  is  about  12  days, 
and  the  usual  expenses  from  S'lO  to  5^0, 

TIIF.   COAL   MINES. 

Since  the  discovery  and  op*,  liing  of  the  extensive  coal 
mine;-"  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  gren^  internal  imi-rove- 
niputs  wh.v.li  have  been  made  in  the  state,  providing  an 
easy  communicatiirri  to  them,  it  has  become  almost  a 
matter  of  course  to  embrace  tbem  within  the  tonr  of  the 
middle  and  n')rthern  states.  The  Lehigh  and  Schuylkill, 
the  prirfinal  mines  already  explored,  are  located  from  100 
to  12v)  nines  in  a  northeaste-ly  direction  from  Philadel- 
phia, between  a  chain  of  mountains  denominated  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  the  .Susquchannah  river.  The  antiiracito 
district  is  principally  occupied  by  mountains  running  par- 
allel to  the  Blue  Ridge,  often  broad  with  tal4e  land  sum- 
mits, and  rising  generally  about  1500  feet  above  the 
ocean,  Tbeae  summits,  by  repeated  fires,  have  been 
principally  divested  of  timber,  and  art;  generally  too  stony 


Ml 


70 


THE   COAL   MINES. 


If       I  *^ 

■■  A* 

m 


t  ■• 


WW  1^' 


tor  tillage.  The  beds  and  veins  of  aT:ithracite  :ang'^  from 
northeast  to  southwest,  and  may  often  be  traced  for  a 
considerable  distance  by  the  compass ;  but  they  have 
been  found  in  the  greatest  quantity  in  sections  iiost 
:accessible  by  water.  Extensive  beds  and  veins  range 
from  the  Lehigh  to  the  Susquehannah,  crossing  the  head 
waters  of  the  Schylkill  and  S  /atara  about  10  miles  north- 
west of  the  Blue  Ridge.  They  are  also  found  contiguous 
to  the  Susquehannah  and  Laekawana.  But  in  no  part 
<jf  the  district  does  the  anthracite  exist  in  such  appa- 
rently inexhaustible  beds  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Mauch 
Chunk,  a  village  situated  on  the  Lehigh,  35  miles  from 
Easton,  and  108  by  canal  from  Philadelphia.  The  coal 
is  there  excavated  on  the  flat  summit  of  a  mou.!>J,ain  that 
rises  near  1500  f'^et  above  the  ocean.  It  is  disclosed  for 
several  miles  on  the  summit  wherever  eAcavations  have 
been  made,  and  is  iiKticated  in  many  places  by  coal  slate 
in  a  pulverulent  state,  on  the  surface,  I'lic  mountain 
rises  with  steep  acclivity,  particularly  on  the  northwest 
side,  and  when  pcnetrat'-il  at  various  altitudes,  discloses 
coal  at  about  the  SiJ-n-- *l.  tan cc  from  the  surface.  In 
the  deep  excavations  made  on  the  summit,  no  termination 
of  the  coal  has  been  found,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that 
anthracite  forms  the  nucleus  of  the  mountain  for  a  consid- 
erable distance. 

Next  to  Mauch  Chunk,  Mount  Carbon,  or  Pottsville, 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill  canal,  has  been 
the  principal  source  of  the  supply  of  anthracite.  Many 
large  veins  are  worked  within  three  miles  of  the  land- 
ing; and  some  have  been  opened  seven  miles  to  the 
northeast,  in  the  direction  of  the  Leliigh  beds.    On  al- 


m 
of 

Clij 

anl 
or 
anl 
taij 

So) 

wit 
sill 


•iL:___— 


m 


THE    C^AL   Wr\'ES. 


71 


DP'?  from 
d  for  a 
jy  have 
18   i.iost 
3  range 
ic  head 
s  north- 
iticruous 
no  part 
li  appa- 
Mauch 
es  from 
rhc  coal 
ain  that 
iosed  for 
ns  have 
oal  slate 
mountain 
irthwest 
iscloses 
ice.     In 
ination 
le  that 
consid- 

ttsville, 
IS  been 
Many 
land- 
Ito  the 
On  al- 


nriist  every  eminence  adjacent  to  Pottsville,  indications 
of  coal  arc  disclosed.  The  veins  generally  run  in  a  north- 
oust  direction,  witli  an  inclination  of  about  45  degrees, 
and  arc  from  3  to  9  feet  in  tliicKncss.  Commencin2  at 
or  near  the  surface,  they  penetrate  to  an  unknov.  .i  depth, 
and  can  often  be  traced  on  hills  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance  by  sounding  in  a  northeast  or  southwest  direction. 
Some  veins  have  been  wrouglit  to  a  depth  of  200  feet 
without  a  necessity  for  draining,  tlie  inchned  slate  roof 
shielding  them  from  water. 

On  the  extensive  tract  occupied  by  the  New- York 
corupany,  ^"c  miles  from  Pottsville,  there  are  also  inex^ 
haustible  coal  beds,  in  tliu  excavating  of  which  from  300 
to  400  hands  are  employed. 

Southwest  of  Pottsville  llio  coal  becomes  more  easily 
ignited,  and  that  at  Peter's  mountain,  a  few  miles  east  of 
Dansvillc,  is  f.aid  to  contain  bitumen.  It  is  probable  that 
the  coal  in  thai  vicinity  embraces,  like  the  Wilkesbarre. 
rauch  more  inflamable  gas  than  the  Lehigh,  which  may 
have  led  to  Ihu  supposition  that  it  was  bituminous. 

Anthracite  is  found  on  several  of  the  streams  that  dis- 
charge into  the  Susquehannab,  on  its  eastern  r'  ,e.  A 
large  bed  exists  a  few  miles  easterly  from  Berw  iv,  n.;id 
numerous  veins  occur  from  an  elevated  part  of  the  Wilkes- 
barre mountain,  to  the  Kingston  and  Shawiicse  moun- 
tains, that  form  the  western  border  of  the  ba  in  of  Wyo- 
ming.   Veins  of  coal  in  the  vale  of  the  latter,^  about  125 


^  *  The  valley  of  Wyoming  is  rendered  memorable  in 
history  from  the  bloody  massacre  of  the  white  settlers  by 

ho  Indians  commanLcd  by  Col.  i.^i'lrr  during  ♦he  revo- 
tution,  and  immortalized  in  song  by  the  beautifu  joem  of 

f8 


mt 


72 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SCHUYLKILL  COAL  MLNES. 


miles  northwest  of  Philadelphia,  are  not  only  very  numer- 
ous, occurring  on  almost  every  farm,  but  many  are  of  un- 
common thicknesy.* 

Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  also  found  adjoining  the 
head  waters  of  Lycoming  creek,  which  Jie  in  horizontal 
veins,  elevated  considerably  above  the  ordinary  level  of 
the  adjacent  country,  and  are,  of  course,  mined  wlLh 
much  less  difficulty  than  in  many  other  districts.  These 
mines  are  advantageously  located  for  supplying  the  city 
of  New-York  and  the  soutliweslern  part  of  the  state,  and 
will  doubtless  prove  o^''  great  value  to  a  company  which 
has  been  chartered  to  explore  them. 


m 


S'     M'l,' 


:i';-:;!l 


BOUTE  TO  THE    SCHUYLKILL  COAL  MINES. 

96  miles. 
The  Germantown,  Norristown  and  Reading  rail  roads, 
extend  from  Philad^lpii  i  to  Reading,  59  miles ;  from 
w  hence  to  Pottsville,  by  stage  or  canal,  is  about  37  miles. 
The  lattir  portion  of  the  route,  indeed,  will  soon  be  oc- 
cupied by  the  Reading  rail  road,  which  is  to  connect,  at 
various  points,  with  the  Mount  Carbon,  the  Dansville  and 
Pottsville,  the  Mill  Creek  and  Schuylkill  Valley,  the  Mine 


Campbell.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre,  on  the  Susque- 
hannah  river,  has  been  built  near  the  place  of  this  mas- 
sacr.  Solomon's  creek,  a  tributary  stream,  and  which 
imiteR  with  the  Susqiichannah  in  this  valley,  contains 
two  verv  romantic  falls,  a  very  short  distance  from 
the  'ilk.oc. 

+  I?  or  tiic  preceding  sketch  of  the  coal  region,  the  edi- 
tor 's  mostly  indebted  to  the  Journal  of  Science  and  Arts, 
an  ii  valuable  work,  published  at  New-Haven,  Conn.,  by 
Professor  Silliman. 


f 


"i\ 


GERMAN-TOWN — HAMBURGH. 


73 


ry  numer- 
are  of  iin- 

oining  the 
horizontal 
ry  level  of 
lined  with 
;s.  These 
g  the  city 
state,  and 
any  which 


rail  roads, 
iies ;  from 
t  37  miles, 
oon  be  oc- 
)nnect,  at 
isville  and 
,  the  Mine 

Susque- 
this  mas- 
nd  which 
contains 
ince  from 

,  the  edi- 
Eind  Arts, 
onn.,  by 


Hill  and  Schuylkill  Haven,  and  the  Little  Schuylkill  rail 
roads — thus  uniting  with  all  the  rail  ways  in  the  Schuyl- 
kill coal  region-  By  means  of  a  branch,  it  also  connects 
witli  the  Columbia  rail  road,  within  five  or  six  miles  of  its 
termination. 

Gf.rma.ntown,  7  miles  from  Philadelphia  on  this  route, 
is  distinguished  as  the  spot  of  a  sanguinary  contest  dur- 
inn-  the  revolution. 

NoRRisTowN,  10  miles  farther,  is  handsomely  located 
on  the  north  l)ank  of  the  Schuylkill.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Montgomery  cotmty,  and  contains  a  number  of  elegant 
dwellings.  It  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  cele- 
brated Doct.  Rittcnhouse. 

PoTTsTOWN,  or  PoTTSGROvE,  19  milcs  above  Norris- 
town,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river# 

Reading,  23  miles  farther,  located  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  is  the  capital  of  Berk's  county.  It  is  a  flour- 
ishing town,  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  inhabited  princi- 
pally by  Germans.  Its  population  is  about  7000.  Near 
this  place  the  Union  Canal,  noticed  at  page  59,  com- 
mences. 

Hamburgh  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  23 
mileb  ah:>ve  Reading,  near  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  a  pleas- 
ant and  thriving  village,  near  which  is  what  is  called  tho 
Mountain  Dam,  27  feet  high.  The  passage  of  the  Schuyl- 
kill and  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is  interesting  and 
romantic.  The  mountains  bordering  the  ravine  are  lofty 
and  precipitous,  presenting  ledges  of  old  and  rod  sand 
stone,  with  coarse  and  fine  i  siiicious  gray  wacke.  The 
turnpike  win  da  on  the  mountain  side  at  a  great  elevation 


74 


MOUNT  CARDON. 


il   ' 


'  1  ! 


^% 


above  the  stream,  giving  to  tho  traveller  a  Biibliino  and 
varied  scenery.  The  navigation  tliroi:;;h  llio  pass,  or 
what  is  called  tho  Schuylkill  Water  Gap,  is  ctFected  by 
Btonc  dams  of  magnitude  and  permanent  construction  ; 
and  groops  of  locks,  water  falls  and  broad  sheets  of  water 
are  frequent. 

After  passing  the  Water  Gap,  the  next  object  of  at, 
traction  is  the  Tunnel,  which  has  been  bored  through  a 
hill  375  yards  for  tho  canal.  The  village  of  Orv.isburgh 
is  3  miles  farther  ;  from  which  to 

Mount  Carbon  or  Pottsville  is  8  miles.  This  place, 
centrally  located  in  the  coal  region,  has  attained  an  as- 
tonishing growth  within  a  few  years.  In  1824  it  wdt^  a 
wilderness ;  in  1 836,  it  contained  about  600  dwellings 
and  7000  inhabitants  ;  several  churches,  a  bank,  3  print. 
ing  offices,  and  a  large  number  of  stores,  shops  and  pub- 
lic houses,  some  of  which  are  very  elegant.  The  town  is 
laid  Out  in  regular  squares,  and  the  main  street,  about  a 
mile  in  length,  presents  on  each  side  a  compact  row  of 
b.rgc  and  substantial  buildings.  The  principal  streets 
are  M'Adamized  in  the  centre,  with  brick  side  walks,  siv- 
ing  a  neat  and  durable  appearance  to  the  promenades. 

Tl>e  coal  in  this  region  has  been  described  in  the  pre- 
ceding pages  of  this  work.  Btsides  the  numerous  facili- 
ties atrorded  for  its  transportation  by  water,  several  rail 
roads  have  been  constructed  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount 
Carbon.  Amon;j  those,  are  the  ?iIount  Carbon  rail  road, 
from  Mount  Carbon  to  Norwegian  Valley,  7  miles  ;  the 
Schuylkill  Valley  rail  road,  from  Port  Carbon  to  Tusca. 
rora,  10  miles,  and  branches  15  miles  more  ;  the  Schuyl- 
kill rail  road,  13  miles ;  the  Mill  Creek  rail  road,  from 


M|ean 


I 


KATt  ROADS. 


75 


►liino  and 

pass,  or 

'ected  by 

truction  ; 

of  water 


set  of  at. 
ihrouj^h  a 
'wisburgH 

his  place, 

cd  an  as. 

:  it  wDTi  a 

dwellings 

i,  3  print. 

and  pub- 

le  town  is 

,  about  a 

ct  row  of 

1  streets 

alks,  giv. 

ladcs. 

the  pre* 

us  facili* 

eral  rail 

f  Mount 

ail  road, 

cs  ;    th© 

Tusca- 

Schuyl- 

d,  from 


Port  Carboii  to  tiic  coal  mine*:  near  Mill  Crcok,  7  miles, 
inclii Jinjir  branches  ;  the  Mine  flill  and  Schuylkill  Haven 
rail  road,  from  Schuylkill  Ilaven  to  th^  coal  mines  at 
Mine  Hill,  including  branches,  2U  miles;  the  Pine  Grove 
rail  road,  4  miles ;  the  Little  Schuylkill  rail  road,  from 
Port  Clinton  to  Tamaqua,  23  miles  ;  and  the  Lackawaxen 
rail  road,  from  Honcsdalc  to  Carbon  dale,  17  miles. 

Of  the  numerous  villajjcs  which  have  s])rung  up  ir\  the  *  * 
vicinity  of  these  mines  is  Port  Carbon,  a  short  distance 
from  Pottsville,  containing  from  250  to  300  buildings. 

Pursuing  up  the  route  of  the  Valley  rail  road,  ttie  u«iv-. .  ' 
eller   next  comes  to  Tuscarora,  Middlcport,  Patterson/-, 
New  Philadelphia,  and  Tuscarora  again.     The  three  for^f^* 
mcr  places  are  at  the  intersection  of  the  large  lateral  road 
which  leads  up  the  creek  tributary  to  the  river. 

TJp  the  Mill  Creek  rail  road,  about  2  miles,  is  St.  Clairs- 
ville,  and  at  its  head  New  Castle,  where  the  road  from 
Port  Carbon  intersects  the  Centi'j  Turnpike.     Both  these 
places  have  extensive  water  powers,  and  are  admirably ' 
located  for  mills,  &-c. 

At  the  junction  of  the  West  Branch  of  the  Schuylkill i* 
with  the  main  river,  Schuylkill  Haven  is  a  beautifully  sit-j 
uated  place,  which  will  be  a  mart  for  all  the  immense  coal 
region  of  the  West  and  west  West  Branches ;  this  loca- 
tion is  destined  to  be  the  focn.i  of  an  extensive  business. 
MinersYille  is  another  site  on  the  same  branch,  nearly 
west  of  Potlaville.  This,  from  its  situation  among  ex- 
tensive colleries,  has  already  become  a  populous  place,  as 
the  residence  of  those  engaged  in  the  coal  business  Fur- 
ther up  on  the  Broad  Mountain,  is  Carbondale,  which  also 
promises  to  be  a  place  of  some  importance. 


> 


76 


MAUcn  cnuNK. 


,1    'i 


ROUTK  TO  THE  LEIIICII  COAL  MINES. 

From  Pottsvillc,  a  stage  can  be  lakoii  to  Mancli  Chunk, 
P.t  tho  Loliigh  coal  mines,  a  distance  of  3J2  niilos  in  a 
northeasttTly  dire(;tioii.  This  route  is  recommended  to 
travellers  from  the  south,  designing  a  general  visit  to  tho 
coal  regions.  From  tho  ncrth,  the  most  dirc't  route  is, 
to  pursue  the  line  of  the  Morris  canal  from  Newark, 
New  Jersey,  to  Easton,  or  the  route  from  New-York  to 
Sclioolc  j's  Mountain,  and  from  thence  to  Easlon,  pro- 
ceeding up  the  Leiiigh  to  Maiieh  Cl.unk.  A  very  com- 
mon  route  from  Philadelphia  to  the  Lehigh  is  by  steam- 
boat to  Bristol,  20  ny}cii  up  the  Delaware,  and  from 
thence  by  stage  llnough  Newton  and  New  Hope  to 
Easton,  50  miles  farther.  This  route  is  mostly  on  the 
bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  passes  through  a  pleasant 
section  of  the  country,  aiiordiiig  a  rieli  and  diver;  ihed 
^cenery. 

.  MAUCII  CHUNK. 

^  The  village  o .  Mauch  Chunk  is  situated  on  the  west- 
ern bank  of  the  Lehigh,  in  a  deep  romantic  ravine,  be- 
tween  rocky  mountains  that  rise  in  some  parts  precipi- 
tously to  800  or  1000  feet  above  the  stream.  Space  was 
procured  for  dwellings  by  breaking  down  the  adjacent 
rocks,  and  by  filling  a  part  of  the  ravine  of  the  Mauch 
Chunk  creek.  A  portion  of  this  stream  has  been  trans- 
ferred to  an  elevated  rail  way,  and  is  used  to  propel  a  grist 
mill.  The  village  contai-  s  about  250  dwellings,  belong- 
ing principally  to  the  Lehigh  Company,  who  have  be- 
tween 800  and  1 000  men  in  their  employ.     Mauch  Chunk 


m 


WV' 


LEHIQH  illVER. 


77 


VES. 

;li  Cliunk, 
lilos  in  a 
icndcd  to 
isit,  to  the 
t  route  is, 

Newark, 
/-York  to 
slon,  pro- 
lury  com- 
by  st  carn- 
al id  from 

Hope  to 
!y  on  tlie 
.  pleasant 
iivcT:  iiifd 


the  west- 

ivine,  be- 

^  precij)i- 

pace  was 

adiaccnt 

2  Mauch 

en  trans!- 

t'l  a  j[Trist 

,  belong- 

have  be- 

1  Chunk 


I 


seems  by  nature  designed  for  a  i)lace  of  business,  but  an 
there  is  not  sufncient  room,  owinjf  io  the  approaeh  of  the 
mountains  to  the  Lehitijb,  for  a  town  of  mueh  size,  the 
business  of  the  place  will  most  likely  be  confined  princi- 
pally to  tlie  sliipment  of  coal. 

The  Mai  cii  Chunk  Rail  Road  leads  from  near  the 
coal  mines  on  the  moimtain  down  an  inclined  plane  to 
the  Leliijjii  river.  It  is  S  miles  lonnr,  and  lias  been  in  op. 
cration  9  or  10  years.  The  road  generally  passes  along 
a  nario'.v  nhelf,  with  precipices  on  its  side  not  unfrequently 
of  from  300  to  600  feet.  \t  the  end  of  the  rail  road,  the , 
cars  arc  let  down  to  the  river  on  an  inclined  piano  of  700 
leet,  equal  to  a  prrpendicuiai-  descent  of  200. 

The  same  company  have  also  consirncted  a  rail  road 
51  miles  in  extent  from  Mauch  Chunk  up  the  Lehigh  to 
a  coal  mine. 

The  Leukjii  Canal  was  noticed  at  page  61.  The  Le* 
HIGH  RivKR  is  a  copiourf  rapid  stream,  and  rise's  by  various 
mountain  brandies  40  miles  nnrihwest  of  Mauch  Cliunk, 
which  unite  below  Stoddartsville,  25  miles  above  tiie  for 
mer  place.  The  fall  of  the  river  bctw(  e;i  these  two  places 
i*5  b  1.')  feet.  Eleven  miles  below  Man  oh  Chunk,  it  passes 
through  tiic  Kittalinny  mountains,  and  in  the  intermedi- 
ate space  falls  24.5  feet.  From  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap, 
or  passage  through  the  Kiltatinny,  to  its  junction  with 
the  Delaware  at  Easton,  35  miles,  it  falls  205  feet ; 
making  the  entire  fall  from  Stoddartsville  1210  feet.  To 
overcome  the  descent  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  Easton,  21 
dams  and  52  locks  have  been  found  necessary.  They 
arc  located  at  the  head  of  the  rapids,  enabling  the  navi- 
gator  to  command  an  artificial  freshet,  when  the  stream 


,1 


if: 


i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


.<i 


78 


LEHIGH  WATER  GAP. 


i 


from  its  dispersicn  would  not  otherwise  admit  of  tlic  pas. 
vsagc  of  boats.  Water  frjiri  t}ic  dam  is  co^^iously  admitted 
into  a  rail  way  that  extciuds  to  tho  foot  of  the  rapid.  The 
gates  are  attached  by  hinges  to  the  bottom  of  tho  lock, 
and  rise  by  the  force  of  water  admitted  from  a  floom, 
constructed  parallel  with  the  lock,  and  remain  suf^pended, 
forming  a  section  of  the  dam.  Jf  the  gate  of  the  fl(X)m  is 
closed,  tho  water  between  the  gates  passes  off,  and  they 
fall  by  their  own  weight  and  the  pressure  of  the  water 
from  the  dam. 

Tho  Landivg,  or  Lausanne,  above  Maucli  Chunk,  from 
its  location  at  tlie  head  of  the  navigation,  and  at  the  com- 
mencemcnt  of  the  road  leading  to  the  Susquehannah,  is  a 
place  O;'  deposit  for  merchandize  and  produce  destintd  to 
and  from  the  upi)er  country.  Eight  miles  below  Mauch 
Chunk  is  tho  pleasant  village  of 

Leighton.  The  village  commands  a  prospect  of  tho 
river  and  canal ;  the  valley  in  which  the  town  of  V.'eiss 
Port  is  located ;  the  Blue  Mountain  in  the  distance,  and 
a  ncaror  view  of  tlie  Malioning  mountain  and  the  Lehigh 
hills.  The  Mahoning  creek  flows  at  the  foot  uf  the  Ma- 
honing mouitain,  and  empties  into  tho  Lehigh  within 
half  a  mile  of  the  village,  where  has  been  discovered  a 
mineral  spring,  the  waters  of  whicli  have  proved  highly 
beneficial  in  many  cases  of  disease  and  debility. 

The  Lehigh  Water  Gap  is  3  miles  farther.  The  river 
is  here  confined  within  very  narrow  limits,  being  bounded 
on  either  side  with  the  bold  and  precipitous  Kittatinny 
mountains.  T'le  scenery  is  in  a  high  degree  wild,  pic- 
turcsque,  and  frequently  sublime.  Below  the  mountains, 
the  features  of  nature  arc  less  magnificent,  but  still  fol- 


qr 


BETHLEHEM — KASTON. 


79 


of  tlic  pas- 
]y  admitted 
rapid.  The 
f  tbo  lock, 
Ti  a  floom, 
suspended, 
[ho  fl(X)in  is 
r,  and  tlicy 

the  water 

hunk,  from 
it  the  com- 
annah,  is  a 
destined  to 
o\v  Mauch 

lect  of  the 
1  of  Vreigs 
tancc,  and 
the  Lcl<i;«;li 
/f  the  Ma- 
^h  witliin 
icovered  a 
k'ed  highly 

The  river 
y  bounded 
vittatinny 

wild,  pic- 
lountains, 
t  Btill  fol- 


\ 


m 


low  in  a  romantic  succession  of  stronj^ly  contrasted  and 
elegant  landscapes. 

Betulvaiem  is  11  miles  from  the  Water  Gap.  It  is  a 
settlement  of  the  Moravians,  or  United  Brethren.  Tiic 
situation  is  healthful  and  pleasant,  and  it  is  a  place  much 
resorted  to  in  the  summer  nionths.  The  church  bclong- 
injT  to  the  society  is  one  of  the  larjrest  in  tlie  state,  though 
exhibitiner  in  its  structure  much  j)]ainness.  From  its 
steeple  a  very  beautiful,  pictures(}ue  .  nd  extended  view 
can  be  obtained.  In  one  direction  the  scene  stretches 
for  u{  I  wards  of  20  miles  along  the  course  of  the  Lehigh 
and  the  Water  Gap,  the  wanderinij  explorations  of  the 
eye  terminating  at  the  Blue  Mountain  range. 

The  house  where  Gen.  Lafayette  lay  during  hi-^  recov- 
ery from  the  wound  he  received  at  the;  battle  of  Brandy- 
wine,  is  pointed  out  here.  His  nurse  on  that  occasion, 
who  had  continued  to  reside  in  the  place,  received  a  visit 
from  him  when  he  was  last  in  this  country. 

Easton  is  12  miles  from  Bethlehem,  and  is  the  capital 
of  Northampton  county,  Penn.  It  is  located  on  the  Del- 
aware river,  immediately  above  the  entrance  of  the  Le- 
high, in  a  valley  between  the  Musonetcunck  mountains. 
Several  rude  and  isolated  hills  stand  in  the  valley,  com- 
manding extensive  views  and  giving  to  the  place  a  pic- 
turesquc  appearance.  The  town  is  tastefully  laid  out, 
with  an  open  square  in  the  centre,  and  contains  several 
handsome  dwellings.  Its  publi(!  buildings  are  a  college, 
courthouse,  jail,  4  churches,  a  bank  and  an  academy.  A 
bridge  extending  across  the  Delaware  at  thi.s  place  cost 
.^60,000.    There  is  al&o  a  chain  bridge  acros^^  Can  Lehigh. 


o 


pi ' 


'I ' 
I 


1)1 


i  ♦ 


ill 


h 


I!. 


I 


'It  P 


1!lV  i 


I   s 


N 


iiii  ■ 

¥  r 

lit  • 


f 


<  •« 


* 


80 


MORRIS    CANAt. 


The  location  of  Easton  is  highly  favorable  for  iri'.de. 
Besides  the  great  advantages  hero  possessed  for  manu- 
facturing pur|>ose3,  and  the  contiguity  of  the  place  to  the 
Delawtire  and  Lehigh  river^  it  is  tiie  point  at  which  three 
important  canals,  the  Delaware,  the  Lehigh  and  the  Mor- 
ris,  concentrate. 

The  Morris  Canal  extends  from  Easton  to  Newark, 
New  Jersey,  a  distance  of  86  miles,  and  from  thence  to 
Powles'  Hook,  opposite  New-York,  8  miles  further,  lock- 
age loOO  feet,  whicli  is  surmounted  by  inclined  planes. 
From  Newark  to  Patcrson,  the  country  througli  which 
the  canal  passes  is  beautiful.  At  the  latter  place  a  view 
of  the  extensive  manufactories  is  had,  located  on  the 
north.  On  the  south,  the  canal  for  some  distance  is 
bounded  by  mountainous  rugged  cliffs,  the  rocky  excava- 
tions through  wliicli  were  attended  with  great  labor  and 
expense.  Four  miles  above  Faterson  is  what  is  called 
the  Grand  Aqueduct  across  the  Passaic  river  at  the  Little 
Falls.  Half  a  mile  furtht  r  is  an  aqueduct  across  the 
Pompton  river,  a  work  of  considerable  magnitude. 

From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Wind  Gap,  an  important 
passage  through  the  Blue  Mountains,  is  12  miles,  in  a 
northwardly  direction. 

From  Easton  to  thr  Delaware  Water  Gapy  the  distance 
is  23  miles.  The  route  proceeds  up  the  river  to  Rich- 
mond, 14  miles  ;  from  thence  to  Williamsburgh,  4  miles  ; 
and  from  the  latter  place  to  the  Water  Gap,  5  miles. 
Tiie  current  of  the  stream  is  here  contracted  at  the  base 
of  two  lofty  mountains  in  opposite  directions,  between 
.which  the  pabsagc  is  extremely  narrow.  It  is  supj)osed 
that  here  was  formerly  a  barrier  over  which  the  river 


♦  %. 


rHILADKLrillA  TO  NEW-IORK, 


81 


le  for  Iriide. 
d  for  manu- 
!  place  to  the 
:  which  three 
and  the  Mor- 

1  to  Newark, 
)m  thence  to 
further,  lock- 
hned  planes, 
rough  which 

place  a  view 
'.ated  on  the 
D  distance  is 
•ocky  excava- 
eat  labor  and 
hat  is  called 

at  the  Little 
across  the 
litudc. 

an  important 
I  miles,  in  a 

the  distance 
rcr  to  Rich- 
rgh,  4  miles ; 
ap,  5  miles. 
1  Jit  the  base 
ns,  between 
is  supposed 
ch  the  river 


\ 


flowed  in  the  form  of  a  catpract,  which  was  subsequently 
worn  away,  leaving  a  Fmooth  unrufllcd  current.  The 
scene  is  wild  und  highly  interesting. 

From  Easfon  to  Schonleifs   Mountain  and  thence  to 
New-York,  the  whole  distance  is  71  miles  as  follows : 


Miles. 
From  Easton  to  Phil- 

ipslmrgh, 1 

Top  of  Sohooloy's 

Mountain,.... 24 

Mcndiiaii! \2 


Miles. 

Morristown, fi 

Passaic  river,  , 7 

Newark, 11 

New-York, 10 


►Scuooli:y's  Mountain,  in  New-Jersey,  is  a  place  of 
fashionable  resort  from  New- York,  in  the  summer 
months,  owing  to  its  cool,  airy  and  healthful  situation, 
and  to  the  extensive  prospect  afforded  from  its  top  ;  on 
which  thtre  is  an  excellent  public  liouse.  Within  a  mile 
of  its  summit  there  are  minoral  springs,  which  are  usually 
resorted  to  by  visitants  at  the  mountain  house. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  which  is  located  on  this  route,  is  no- 
ticed in  a  subseqi.cnt  page. 

Having  thus  far  diverged  from  the  usual  route  to  the 
north,  for  the  purpose  of  describing  the  coal  region,  and 
the  most  interesting  natural  and  artiiicial  objects  connect- 
ed therc'.viih,  we  return  to  Philadelphia,  to  resume  the 
regular  excursion. 

FR03I    PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 

I'here  being  two  prominent  routes,  we  give  a  sketch 
of  each  for  the  convenience  and  choicc  of  travellers. 

Route  hy  the  Camden  and  Anihoy  Rail  Road — 

8,5  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow  : 


.-^ 


S* 
% 


-»,jBl.,  i-  "fl^riT. 


991 


msmm 


82 


I  ()#;:■!{>.'; 


i.hii 


PIfTLADELPIIIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 

Miles. 


By  fttcmnhnat. 
From  Philadelphia  to 
Burliiifrton,  N.  J.,. .     18 

Bristol,  Penn., 1 

Bordcntovvn,  IS .  J., . . .       9 


Miles. 

By  rail  road. 

Hightstown, 14 

Amboy, 20 

By  steamboat. 
New- York, 23 


BfTKLiNGTON,  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  12  miles  below  Trcn^nn  and  18  above  Philadel- 
phia. It  is  delightfully  situated,  and  contains  some 
handsome  public  and  private  houses. 

Bristol  is  one  milo  farther,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Dclaw'u.ro,  in  Bucks  county,  Pennsylvania.  This  place 
contains  several  fine  residences,  c^id  is  an  attractive  and 
interestinj:;  country  villajrc.  Some  of  its  flower  gardens, 
which  are  unusually  elegant,  and  located  on  the  margin 
of  the  river,  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  its  appearance. 

BoRDENTowN,  9  milcs  farther,  and  G  below  Trenton,  is 
noted  as  tlic  residence  of  the  Count  de  Surveillers,  the 
ex-king  of  Spain.  His  villa  comm?inds  a  fine  view  of  the 
r'ver.  The  soil  around  it  is  unproductive  ;  but  by  the  aid 
of  cultiu"e  and  art,  his  residence  now  exhibits  an  appear- 
ance of  taste  and  munificence  worthy  the  princely  fortune 
and  dignity  of  its  proprietor. 

At  Bordentown  the  Camden  and  Amboy  Rail  Road  is 
taken,  which  extends  to  South  Amboy  ;  from  whence  a 
steamboat  is  again  taken,  which  lands  passengers  at 
New-York.  Camden,  the  south-western  point  at  which 
the  road  terminates,  is  a  small  village  on  the  Delaware, 
opposite  Philadelphia,  27  miles  below  Bordentown,  where 
the  river  is  about  one  mile  in  breadth.  In  the  winter, 
passengers  are  generally  received  and  landed  at  that 


i 


ill 


^i 


r 


nilLADEI-PIIIA  TO  NC'.V-YOIIK. 


y. 


83 


Miles. 


road. 


)•••••• 


ihoat. 


14 

20 

23 


of  the  same 
)ve  Philadel- 
rilains   some 

to  side  of  the 
This  place 
ttractive  and 
wer  gardens, 
n  the  margin 
■ppearance. 

vv  Trenton,  is 
[irveiliers,  the 
le  view  of  the 
3ut  by  the  aid 
s  an  appear- 
ncely  fortune 

Rail  Road  is 
)m  whence  a 
assengers  at 
)int  at  which 

le  Delaware, 
itown,  where 
the  winter, 

ded  at  that 


point ;  but  in  summer,  a  steamboat  passage  between  Phi- 
ladelphia and  Bordentown  is  generally  preferred.  South 
Amboy  is  seated  at  the  head  of  the  Raritan  Bay,  61  miles 
from  Camden,  as  measured  by  the  course  of  the  rail  road  ; 
and  is  about  23  miles  from  tlie  city  of  New- York,  (by 
water,)  making  the  wh<jle  diBlance  from  Camden  to  New- 
York  84  miles. 

Sou*h  Amboy,  where  the  road  terminates  at  the  east- 
ern end,  is  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  United  States 
accessible  at  all  seasons  for  the  largest  vessels  from  the 
sea  and  from  New-York ;  so  that  the  communication  with 
Philadelphia  and  foreign  countries  by  tliis  route  is  seldom 
interrupted. 

From  South  Amboy  a  steam  boat  is  taken  for  New- 
York.  In  proceeding  up  the  bay,  Staten,  Bedlow  and 
Governor's  Islands  are  successively  passed — the  former 
containing  several  beautiful  country  seats,  and  the  lat- 
ter being  used  exclusively  as  a  military  post. 

FROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO    NEW-YORK, 

By  way  of  Trenton,  JSeio-Brunsivick  and  Newark — 

87  miles. 
The  following  are  the  intermediate  distances  : 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 

Bristol, 17 

Morrisville, 10 

Trenton,. 1 

New-Brunswick, 26 


Miles. 

Elizabethtown, 5 

Newark, G 

Jersey  City, 8 

By  steamboat. 
New- York, 1 


Railway,  . ... , 13 

The-PniLAUELPiiiA  and  Trenton  Rail  Road  is  taken 
at  the  depot  in  the  city.     This  road,  which  is  remarkably 

o2 


1 

1  W'' 

1 

m 

II 

1'!!,!  . 

1 

k'^ 

n.i 


84 


TRENTON. 


level,  cxtendB  along  the  verdant  banks  of  the  Delaware, 
and  passes  throucrh  the  ^  Jlage  of  Bristol  to  Trenton; 
from  which  point  there  is  a  branch  rail  road  to  Borden, 
town,  uniting  with  the  Camden  and  Amboy  rail  road 
already  noticed,  and  also  a  continuous  line  of  railway 
through  New-Brunswick,  Rahway,  Elizabethtown,  and 
Newark  to  Jersey  City  opposite  New- York. 

B'USTOL,  17  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  the  first  village 
of  importance  on  this  route,  and  has  already  been  noticed 
at  p.  82. 

Trenton,  1 1  milos  farther,  is  the  capital  of  New-Jersey, 
and  contains  about  7000  inhabitants,  a  state  house,  two 
banks,  and  six  houses  of  public  worship.  At  this  place 
the  steamboat  navigation  on  Delaware  terminates. 

The  river  here  forms  a  cons  'jltj  rapid  or  fall,  near 
which  is  the  bridge  used  by  the  rail  road  comj)any,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  neatly  roofed,  and  the  sides 
enclosed  to  secure  it  from  the  weather. 

It  was  in  this  section  of  New- Jersey,  a.id  at  the 
gloomiest  period  of  the  contest,  that  some  of  the  most 
important  scenes  of  the  revolution  transpired.  It  was  for 
a  length  of  time  in  the  possession  of  the  English,  and 
was  the  theatre  of  much  carnage  and  bloodshed.  The 
capture  of  a  detachment  of  EngUsh  and  German  troops 
in  December,  1776,  at  Trenton,  was  the  first  signal  vie 
tory  that  crowned  our  arms  in  the  revolutionary  contest. 
The  retreat  of  Washington  with  his  troops  from  Tren- 
ton,  considering  the  circumstances  which  eurrounded 
him,  and  the  secrecy  with  which  it  was  accompUshed, 


NEWARK. 


85 


Delaware, 
Trenton ; 
to  Borden- 
j^  rail  road 
of  railway 
itown,  and 

first  village 
een  noticed 

"JewJersey, 
house,  two 
t  this  place 
terminates, 
or  fall,  near 
ipany,  about 
lid  the  sides 

a.id  at  the 
of  the  most 
It  was  for 
Inglish,  and 
ished.    The 
|rman  troops 
it  signal  vie- 
lary  contest, 
from  Tren- 
Burrounded 
icomplished, 


may  be  justly  considered  as  one  of  the  most  succewful 
movements  of  that  eventful  period. 

New-Brunswick,  26  miles  from  Trenton,  is  an  incor- 
porated  city.  It  is  handsomely  located  on  the  w.uth 
west  side  of  the  Raritan  river,  and  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  a  college,  7  churches,  and  between  5  and  6000  in- 
habitants. 

The  Raritan  and  Delaware  canal  commences  at  this 
place,  and  extends  through  Trenton  to  Bordentown, 
uniting  the  Raritan  with  the  Delaware  river.  Length 
43  miles. 

Rahway  is  a  small  village,  13  miles  from  New-Brans- 
wick. 

Elizabstiitown,  5  miles  farther,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  creek  empty infr  into  Statcn  Island  Sound.  A 
steamboat  plies  between  the  Point  and  New- York. 

Newark,  6  miles  farther,  is  one  of  the  most  elegant 
cities  in  the  union.  It  is  3i<  uated  near  the  west  bank  of 
tho  Passaic  river,  3  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  laid  out 
in  regular  streets,  the  principal  being  200  feet  wide.  The 
public  square,  near  the  centre,  is  very  handsome,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  number  of  elegant  private  dwellings. 
The  pubUc  buildings  in  the  place  are  a  court  house,  jail, 
four  banks,  an  academy,  and  22  churches.  The  popula- 
tion in  1830  was  10,705,  and  cannot,  at  the  present  time, 
(1840,)  be  less  than  18  or  20,000. 

The  Morris  and  Essex  rail  road,  commencing  at  this 
place,  extends  in  a  westerly  direction  through  the  towns 
of  Orange,  Springfield  and  Chatham  to  Morristown,  a 
distance  of  22  miles. 


86 


NEW-YORK. 


:  I 


li^-f'.  I 


'  »  I    !  1  - 


ii^         I 


III 


Between  five  and  six  miles  froui  Newark,  the  rail  road 
unites  with  one  leading  to  Patterson,  noticed  in  a  subsc- 
quent  page.  The  two,  passing  through  Bergen  Hill,  a 
deep  and  rocky  excavation,  are  used  in  common  for 
about  two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  terminating  point  at 

Jersey  City  ;  from  whence  a  titcamboat  crosses  the 
bay,  about  one  mile,  to 

NEW-YORK. 

This  city  is  situated  on  the  point  of  Manhattan  Island, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  in  lati- 
tude 40.  It  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  in  1612,  under 
the  name  of  New-Amsterdam,  and  was  incorporated  by 
the  British  in  1696.  The  island  on  which  it  stands  is  15 
miles  long,  and  from  1  to  3  miles  broad.  The  city  is 
??ituated  on  the  south  part  of  the  island,  at  the  junction 
of  the  East  and  Hudson  rivers,  and  extends  from  the 
Battery  along  each,  in  a  northerly  direction,  about  3 
miles.  The  early  settlements  were  commenced  at  and 
near  the  Battery,  from  which  streets  were  extended  with- 
out reference  to  order  or  regularity ;  and  this  accounts 
for  the  seeming  want  of  taste  in  laying  out  the  streets 
towards  the  docks  and  harbor. 

The  Battery  is  situated  at  the  southwest  point  of  the 
city,  opposite  to  Governor's  Island.  It  is  handsomely 
laid  out  into  gravel  walks,  and  tastefully  decorated  with 
shrubbery  and  trees.  It  is  much  frequented  by  the  citi- 
zens  in  the  warm  season,  as  well  for  the  purpose  of  par- 
taking  of  the  refreshing  sea  breeze,  as  for  enjoying  the 
prospect,  which,  from  this  place,  includes  the  harbor  with 
its  various  shipping,  Governor's  Island,  Bedlow's  Island, 


4 


NFAV-YORK. 


87 


he  rail  road 
in  a  subsc 
rgfcn  Hill,  a 
ommon  for 
ing  point  at 

crosses  the 


attan  Island, 
ivers,  in  lati- 

1612,  under 
orporated  by 
,  stands  is  15 

The  city  is 

the  junction 
ids  from  the 
ion,  about  3 
meed  at  and 

:tendcd  with- 
this  accounts 
,t  the  streets 

point  of  the 

handsomely 
3Corated  with 
[d  by  the  citi- 
[rpose  of  par- 

enjoying  the 
U  harbor  with 

How's  Island, 


and  Ellis'  Ipland,  on  each  of  which  arc  military  stations, 
the  shores  of  New-Jorsf^y  and  Lonjr  Island,  with  the 
flourishing  city  of  Brooklyn,  and  the  numerous  country 
stats  in  its  vicinity. 

Castli:  Gardkn,  connected  with  the  Battery  by  a 
bridge,  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer  evenings. 
It  has  a  fine  promenade,  and  is  often  rendered  attractive 
by  a  display  of  fire  works  from  its  enclosure,  and  other 
amusements. 

Broadway,  the  mohl  splendid  sircct  in  the  city,  runs 
through  tlie  centre  and  extends  3  miles  in  length  and 
is  about  80  feet  in  width.  It  is  the  gical  and  fashiona- 
ble resort  for  citizrns  and  strangers,  a. id  is  much  crowd- 
ed during  pleasant  weather.  In  this  avenue  arc  Grace, 
Trinity  and  St.  Paul's  churches,  the  Astor  House,  City 
Hotel,  American  Hotel,  Mansion  House,  Atlantic  Hotel, 
Wavcrly  House,  Adelphi  Hotel,  Atheneum  Hotel,  Carl- 
ton House,  and  a  variety  of  shops  with  elegant  and  ex- 
tensive assortments  of  merchandize  of  every  doscription. 

Opposite  Trinity  church,  Wall  street  opens,  which 
contains  most  of  the  banks,  together  with  the  principal 
part  of  the  brokers'  and  insurance  offices. 

On  passing  up  Broadway  still  farther,  is  Courtlandt 
street,  which  leads  to  the  Hudson  river,  where  the  steam- 
boats start  for  Albany.  At  the  foot  of  Courtlandt  street, 
also,  is  the  ferry  to  Jersey  City.  A  httle  further  up  is  Fulton 
street,  on  the  corner  of  which  and  Broadway  stands  St. 
Paul's  church.  Fulton  street  leads  to  the  East  river  to 
one  of  the  principal  ferries  to  Brooklyn.  At  the  foot  of 
Barclay  street,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river  west  of 


1 


88 


NEW-YORK. 


i 


M       lit  I 


^' 


the  Park,  arc  a  part  of  the  Albany  boate,  and  also  the 
Hobokcn  ferry. 

Above  St.  Paul'H  church  in  the  Park  and  City  Hall, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  the  former  containing 
about  1 1  acres,  which  are  ornamented  with  much  taste, 
and  encIoLiod  by  c  bubstantial  iron  railing.  It  furniyhea 
a  cool  and  fashionable  rct-ort  for  men  of  business  and 
pleasure,  after  the  fatirfuo  and  heat  of  a  sunnmr's  day. 
On  the  right  is  the  Park  Theatre,  and  on  the  left  Park 
Place,  on  the  west  side  of  which  is  Columbia  College. 
The  next  street  above  Park  Place  is  Murray,  which 
leads  to  the  Hobokcn  ferry,  and  also  to  the  Providence 
steamboats. 

Of  the  public  buildings  (besides  nearly  30  banks,  most- 
1}'  located  in  Wall  street,)  the  most  prominent  and  im- 
portant ie  the 

City  Hall,  tho  front  of  which  is  built  of  white  marble. 
It  is  216  feet  long,  105  feet  broad,  and,  including  the  attic 
story,  65  feet  high.  The  rooms  for  holding  the  different 
courts  of  law  are  fitted  up  in  a  :  Ich  and  expensive  style. 
The  room  for  holding  the  mayor's  court,  contains  por- 
traits of  Washington,  of  the  different  governors  of  the 
state,  and  of  many  of  the  most  celelnated  commanders  of 
the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States.  The  founda- 
tion stone  of  this  building  vras  laid  in  1803,  and  the  whole 
finished  in  1812,  at  an  expense  of  $500,000,  It  is  one 
of  the  most  elegant  edifices  in  America,  and  reflects  great 
credit  on  the  inhabitants  for  their  munificence  and  taste. 

The  New  City  Hall,  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  is 
an  extensive  brick  building,  formerly  the  Alms  House, 
which,  with  the  buildings  lately  composing  the  Rotunda 


ap 

.  i     ha: 


l  I 


I 


NSW.YORK. 


89 


1  also  Ihc 

City  Hall, 
conlainin)^; 
luch  taste, 
t  furniBht".} 
iBinesH  and 
iincr'H  day. 
3  left  Park 
)ia  College, 
ray,  which 
rrovidcncc 

tanks,  most- 
mt  and  im- 

hitc  marble, 
ing  the  attic 
the  different 
msivo  style, 
ontains  por- 
Tiors  of  the 
imandcrs  of 
he  fDun'Ja- 
d  the  whole 
It  is  one 
fleets  great 
e  and  taste, 
ity  Hall,  is 
Ims  House, 
;he  Rotunda 


and  Debtors'  Prison,  arc  no'v  occupied  for  the  Post  Office 
and  otIiiT  |)ub'ic  officce. 

The  Halj.  of  Jisticf,  on  Franklin  and  litionard 
plrcets,  is  a  massive  and  suj)erb  structure  of  granite,  built 
in  the  Kgyptian  style. 

The  MKiicirANTs'  ExcifANOE,  in  Wall-street,  which  was 
burnt  (hiririLj  tlio  gruat  fire  on  the  night  of  the  Kith  De- 
cember,  1835,  was  an  elegant  structure,  114  feet  long  by 
150  feet  deep,  and  was  erected  it  a  cost  of  .'$230,000. 
On  its  ruins,  however,  a  much  more  splendid  and  exten- 
sive edifice  is  constructing,  and  will  soon  be  finished. 

In  the  same  street,  on  the  comer  of  Nassau,  and  ex- 
tending  through  to  Pinc-street,  a  new  custom  house  is  in 
a  guat  state  of  forwardm'ss,  which,  when  finished,  will 
be  one  of  tlie  most  substantial  and  elegant  buildings  in 
the  city.  It  is  177  feet  long  and  89  feet  wide,  and  is 
built  afte"  the  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  A. hens.  The 
fronts  present  sphnidid  colonnades,  with  massive  columns 
of  the  Doric  order.  The  centre  of  the  buildiiig  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  d(jme  about  GO  feet  in  diameter.  The  en- 
tire etrueture  is  incombustible. 

Trinity  Ciiuiumj,  in  Broadway,  which,  from  its  antique 
ajjpearance,  formerly  attracted  the  attention  of  str;mger8, 
has  been  recently  demolished,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting 
on  its  site  a  new  and  costly  edifice. 

The  c.""'tnry  in  the  adjoining  grounds  is  ancient,  and 
18  cncloaed  by  a  substantial  and  costly  iron  railing.  No 
interment:;  have  taken  place  in  this  cemetery  for  some 
years,  owing  to  a  law  prohibiting  sepulture  within  the 
populous  parts  of  the  city  ;  but  it  has  been  ascertained  by 
authentic  records  kept,  that  more  than  one  hundred  and 


fv». 


90 


NEW-YORK. 


m, 


'  !•(• 


!:v< 


sixty  thousand  bodies  have  been  here  deposited,  excluiive 
of  the  seven  years  of  the  revolutionary  war,  when  no  re- 
cords were  kept.  Am<^n^  ^h*^,  illustrious  dead  who  repose 
in  this  hallowed  spot,  are  t.'io  remains  of  Gen.  Hamilton 
and  Capt.  Luwrcncc.  The  places  of  their  interment  arc 
designated  by  appropriate  monuments. 

St.  Paul's  Chapf.l  is  a  superb  yiructure,  further  up 
Broadway,  near  the  Park.  It  contains  a  portico  of  the 
Ionic  order,  consisting  of  four  pillars  supporting  a  pedi- 
ment,  with  a  niche  in  the  centre  containing  a  statue  of 
St.  Paul.  Unde>  the  portico  is  a  handsome  monument 
erected  by  order  of  Congress  to  the  memory  of  Gen. 
Montgomery,  who  fell  at  the  storming  of  Quebec,  in 
1775,  and  whuse  remains  were  brought  to  New- York  and 
interred  beneath  the  monument  in  1819.  The  spire  of 
the  church  is  234  feet  high ;  and  the  whole  building  is  es- 
teemed  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  architecture  in  the 
city.  In  the  church  yard  adjoining  is  an  elegant  monu. 
ment  erected  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Addis  Emmet, 
an  eminent  counsellor  at  law,  and  brother  of  the  unfortu- 
nate Irish  orator,  Robert  Emmet. 

St.  John's  Chapel,  in  Varick  street,  opposite  Hudson 
Square,  is  a  splendid  edifice,  and  the  most  expensive 
church  in  the  city,  having  cost  more  than  $200,000.  Its 
spire  is  240  feet  in  height. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  a  Roman  Catholic  church, 
in  Mott  street,  is  one  of  the  largest  religious  edifices  in 
New- York.  It  is  built  of  stone,  120  feet  long,  80  feet 
wide,  and  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  approaching  the  city 
from  the  east. 


fl 


n 


NEW-VORK. 


91 


ted,  excluiive 
r,  when  no  re- 
ad who  repose 
Jen.  Hamilton 
■  interment  arc 

ire,  further  up 
portico  of  the 
•porting  a  pedi- 
ting  a  statue  of 
)me  monument 
icmovy  of  Gen. 
of  Quebec,  in 
,  New-York  and 
I.    The  spire  of 
le  building  is  cs- 
hitecture  in  the 
n  elegant  monu- 
Addis  Emmet, 
ir  of  the  unfortu- 

)pposite  Hudson 
most  expensive 
$200,000.     Its 

Jatliolic  church, 
Igious  edifices  in 
(eet  long,  80  feet 
ioaching  the  cily 


There  are  about  1.50  other  churches  in  the  city,  many 
of  which  were  erected  at  a  very  considerable  expense, 
and  arc  ornaments  to  those  sections  of  the  city  in  which 
they  stand. 

Columbia  College,  above  the  City  Hall,  was  charter- 
ed in  i7uO,  und^r  the  name  of  King's  College.  The  edi. 
ficc  and  adjoining  grounds  are  extensive,  and  are  advan- 
tageously and  handsomely  located. 

The  New-York  University  is  situated  between  Wash- 
ington-place  and  Wavjrly-placc,  and  fronts  Washington 
square  towards  the  west.  The  building  is  of  marble,  180 
ieet  long  and  100  feet  deep,  exliibiting  a  specimen  of  the 
English  collegiate  style  of  architecture,  and  forms  a  no- 
ble ornament  to  the  square  and  to  the  part  of  the  city  in 
which  it  stands. 

The  American  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  is  situated 
in  Barclay  street,  near  Bread  way.  It  exhibi.s  annually 
in  May  a  fine  collection  of  paintings,  sculpture,  &c.  A 
part  of  these  were  received  from  Napoleon,  whilst  First 
Consul  of  France. 

The  New-York  Historical  Society  in  Chambers 
street,  corner  of  Broadway,  has  a  library  of  10,000  vol- 
umes, and  a  valuable  collection  of  coins  and  minerals. 

The  New-York  Society  Library,  in  Nassau  street, 
was  commenced  in  1740,  and  at  the  commencement  of 
the  revolution  contained  3000  volumes,  which  were  de- 
stroyed or  taken  away  by  the  British  troops.  It  was  re- 
established in  1780,  and  now  consists  of  about  30,000  vol- 
umes,  many  of  which  are  rare  and  valuable. 

The  New-York  Athen^um,  corner  of  Broadway  and 
Chambers  street,  for  the  promotion  of  science  and  Utcra- 

H 


mm 


93 


NEW-YORK. 


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ture,  contains  a  well  selected  library  and  periodical  pub. 
lications. 

The  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  563  Broadway, 
possesses  a  valuable  library,  and  a  museum  of  natural 
history. 

The  Stuyvesant  Institute,  for  the  diffusion  of  know- 
ledge by  means  of  popular  lectures,  &c.  is  in  a  substan- 
tial granite  building  in  Broadway,  opposite  Bond  street. 

The  Mercantile  Library  Association,  in  Clinton 
Hall,  has  a  library  of  about  10,000  volumes. 

The  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  in  a  com- 
modious building  in  Crosby  street,  is  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition. The  number  of  students  attending  the  lectures 
generally  exceeds  one  hundred. 

The  Park  Theatre  is  a  spacious  edifice,  adjoining  the 
Park.  It  was  originally  built  in  1798,  at  an  expense  of 
$179,000,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820,  and  rebuilt 
the  following  year.  It  is  80  feet  long,  165  deep,  and  55 
high. 

The  Bowery  Theatre  (in  the  Bowery)  is  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  Doric  architecture  in  the  city.  It  is 
75  feet  long,  175  feet  deep,  and  58  feet  high. 

The  American  Museum  is  opposite  St.  Paul's  church 
in  Broadway,  and  contains  an  imniense  collection  of  nat- 
ural and  artificial  curiosities. 

Peale's  Museum  and  Gallery  of  the  Fine  Arts  is 
opposite  the  Park,  and  contains  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory, paintings,  a  supcj^-ior  cosmorama  and  lecture  room. 

NiBLo's  Garden,  corner  of  Broadway  and  Prince 
street,  is  one  of  the  most  fashions.'  !e  places  of  resort  in 
the  city.    It  has  been  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  is 


NEW-YORK. 


93 


odical  pub. 

Broadway, 
I  of  natural 

on  of  know- 
1  a  substan- 
[ind  street, 
in  Clinton 

sjs,  in  a  com- 

lurishing  con- 

the  lectures 

adjoining  the 

in  expense  of 

I,  and  rebuilt 

deep,  and  55 

is  one  of  the 
le  city.  It  is 
h. 

Paul's  church 
ection  of  nat- 

FiNE  Arts  is 
)f  natural  hia- 
lecture  room. 

and  Prince 
U  of  resort  in 

taste,  and  is 


decorated  with  shrubbery,  flowers,  &c.  In  the  saloon, 
which  is  airy  and  elegant,  theatricial  and  musical  enter- 
tainments  are  frequently  given. 

Of  the  public  squares  and  parks,  besides  those  already 
noticed,  are  the  Bowling  Green,  located  at  the  southern 
termination  of  Broadway ;  Hudson  Square,  or  St.  John's 
Park,  in  the  northwest  part  of  the  city,  belonging  to  Trin- 
ity Church ;  Washington  Square,  a  mile  and  a  half 
north  of  the  City  Hall ;  Union  Place,  at  the  junction  of 
Broadway  and  the  Bowery ;  and  Gramency  Park,  two 
miles  north  of  the  City  Hall. 

HOTELS. 

AsTOR  House,  Broadway,  n^r  St,  Paul's  church. 
This  building  erected  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  is  composed 
almost  entirely  of  eastern  granite,  and  presents  a  most 
noble  and  imposing  appearance.  It  contain  390  rooms, 
and  can  accommodate  from  3  to  400  guests. 

The  City  Hotel,  a  few  doors  north  of  Trinity  church, 
Broadway,  is  an  old  and  highly  respectable  establishment, 
[containing  more  than  100  parlors  and  lodging  rooms,  be- 
s Bides  an  assembly  room,  principally  used  for  concerts. 

The  American  Hotel  is  dehghtfully  situated,  fronting 
the  Park  in  Broadway,  and  is  among  the  most  favored 
establishments  in  the  city. 

The  Mansion  House,  (Bunker's,)  39  Broadway,  is  a 
house  of  fashionable  resort,  with  extensive  and  neat  ac- 
commodations. 

The  Waverly  House,  corner  of  Broadway  and  Ex. 
change  Place,  is  a  neat  and  commodious  establishment. 
[It  receives,  as  it  deserves,  an  extensive  patronage. 


94 


NEW-YORK. 


u 


1      )' 


:n  • 


The  Carlton  House,  comer  of  Broadway  and  Leonard 
streets,  is  also  a  beautiful  establishment,  and  kept  in  a 
superior  style. 

The  Atlantic  Hotel,  5  Broadway,  near  the  Battery, 
is  a  charming  location  for  such  as  are  fond  of  partial 
retirement  from  the  bustle  incident  to  a  crowded  street. 

The  U.  S.  Hotel,  forming  an  allinement  on  three  streets, 
the  one  part  on  Water,  another  on  Pearl,  and  its  eastern 
limit  facing  on  Fulton  street,  and  occupying  the  entire 
block,  is  built  of  white  marble,  and  is  six  stories  high,  ex. 
elusive  of  the  basement.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
quadrangular  tower,  around  which  there  is  an  extensive 
and  pleasant  promenade.  Above  this  there  is  a  spacious 
rotunda,  from  the  exalted  summit  of  which  a  view  is  ob- 
tained of  nearly  the  whole  city,  the  East  river,  Brooklyn, 
part  of  Long-  Island,  the  entire  upper  bay  and  harbor,  Staten 
Island,  a  very  considerable  extent  of  the  Hudson  river 
and  the  Jersey  shore. 

Besides  the  above,  the  following  are  among  the  princi- 
pal public  houses  in  the  city  : 

Adelphi  Hotel,  corner  of  Beaver  street  and  Broad- 
way ;  National  Hotel,  112  Broadway ;  Franklin 
H jusE,  corner  of  Dej  street  and  Broadway  ;  Washlng. 
TON  Hotel,  corner  of  Eeed  street  and  Broadway ;  Clin- 
TON  Hotel,  Beekman  street ;  Exchange  Hotel,  Broad 
street ;  Eastern  Pearl  Street  House,  corner  of  Pearl 
and  Ferry  streets  ;  Congress  Hall,  Broadway ;  Pacific 
Hotel,  162  Greenwich  street ;  Globe  Hotel,  Broad- 
way ;  ATHENEuai  Hotel,  corner  of  Broadway  and  Leon- 
ard streets. 


'* 


ti 


«' 


NEW-YORK. 


95 


id  Leonard 
I  kept  in  a 

:he  Battery, 
d  of  partial 
led  street, 
three  streets, 
cl  its  eastern 
ig  the  entire 
ries  high,  ex- 
i  by  a  lofty 
an  extensive 
is  a  spacious 
,  a  view  is  ob- 
i^er,  Brooklyn, 
harbor,  Staten 
Hudson  river 

)ng  the  princi- 

5t  and  Broad- 
ly  ;  Franklin 
ty ;  Washing- 
adway;  Clin- 
IHotel,  Broad 
!orner  of  Pearl 
iway ;  Pacific 
:oTEL,  Broad- 
ray  and  Leon- 


'I 


There  are  also  «  veral  genteel  private  boarding  houses, 
especially  in  Broadway,  between  the  Battery  and  Trinity 
Church. 

The  prices  at  these  houses  vary  from  $  \  to  ^2,50  per 
day,  and  from  l$8  to  ^12  per  week. 

In  population,  this  city  '\s  the  first  in  the  union.  In 
1835,  it  contained  269,873  inhabitants  ;  which  is  probably 
now  (1840)  augmented  to  300,000. 

Packets. — The  Liverpool  packets  sail  from  New- York 
and  Liverpool  on  the  1st,  8th,  16th  and  24th  of  each 
month. 

The  London  packets  sail  from  New- York  on  the  1st, 
10th,  and  20th,  and  from  London  on  the  7th,  17th,  and 
27th  of  each  month. 

The  Havre  packets  sail  from  New- York  on  the  8th, 
l6th  and  24th,  and  from  Havre  on  the  1st,  8th  and  'Sth 
of  each  month. 

The  .steam  packets  leave  New- York  and  England 
semi-monthly. 

Ste,.i,;boats. — For  Albany.  The  day  line  leaves  from 
the  foot  of  Barclay-street,  at  7  A.  M. ;  the  night  line 
from  the  foot  of  Courtlandt  street,  at  5  P.  M. 

For  Philadelphia.  The  boats  lor  the  route  via  Cam- 
den and  Amboy  rail  road,  leave  from  Pier  No.  1,  North 
river,  a  little  above  the  Battery ;  those  for  the  route  via 
Newark,  New-Brunswick,  v*tc.  from  the  foot  of  Court- 
landt  street. 

For  Boston,  via  Providence,  outer  passage.  The 
boats  leave  Pier  No.  1,  North  river,  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) at  5  P.  M.     For  the  inland  route,  via  Sionington 

n2 


fi' 


EXCURSIONS. 

rail  roadf  they  leave  Pier  No.  4,  North  river,  4th  wharf 
above  the  Battery,  at  6  P.  M. 

For  New-Haven  (Conn.)  Boats  leave  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  from  the  foot  of  Pike  street,  at  7  A.  M. 

For  Hartford  {Conn.)  A  boat  leaves  daily  at  5  P.  M. 
from  the  foot  of  Fulton  street,  (East  river  side.) 

For  Charleston,  S.  C.  A  boat  leaves  every  Saturday 
at  4  P.  M. 

Public  Coaches. — Strangers  visiting  New- York  are 
liable  to  suffer  from  exorbitant  exactions  for  coach  hire. 
To  guard  against  this,  the  corporation  have  licenced  an 
adequate  number  of  hackmen,  who  may  be  found  at  sev- 
eral convenient  stands  in  the  city,  each  coach  being  num. 
bered.  The  following  are  the  prices  allowed  them  by 
law :  For  conveying  a  person  any  distance,  not  exceed- 
ing a  mile  37  1-2  cts.  ;  for  more  than  a  mile  and  less  than 
two,  50  cts. ;  for  every  additional  mile  and  returning,  50 
cts. ;  for  the  use  of  a  coach  per  day,  $5. 

An  excursion  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  city,  and  to 
Greenwicii,  can  be  effected  at  almost  any  time  during 
the  day,  in  an  omnibus,  of  which  there  are  very  great 
numbers  constantly  passing  through  Broadway  and  Wall 
street.  The  usual  charge  in  these  carriages,  which  have 
their  regular  routes,  is  12  1-2  cents. 


# 


ii  <  • 


i 


EXCURSIONS. 

Among  the  numerous  places  of  fashionable  resort  in 
the  vicinity  of  New- York,  are  Governor's,  Bedlow's  and 
Staten  Islands,  within  the  harbor ;  Orange  Springs,  near 
Newark,  Paterson,  the  Passaic  Falls,  Hoboken  and  Wee. 
hawk,  Schooley's  Mountain,  and  Long  Branch,  in  New 


obt 


PASSA7C  FALLS. 


97 


Ith  wharf 

(Sundays 

M. 

at  5  P.M. 

J  Saturday 

r-York  are 
coach  hire, 
licenced  an 
>und  at  sev- 
being  num- 
;d  them  by 
not  exceed- 
ind  less  than 
eturning,  50 

city,  and  to 
time  during 
very  great 
lay  and  Wall 
which  have 


Ible  resort  in 

kdlow's  and 

springs,  near 

[en  and  Wee- 

ich,  in  New 


Jersey,  on  the  west ;  Manhattan  Island,  on  the  north ; 
and  the  tour  of  Long  Island  on  the  east. 

Governor's  and  Bedlow's  Islands  are  usually  approach- 
ed only  in  row  boats,  and  are  less  frequented  on  that  ac- 
count. 

Staten  Island,  is  reached  in  a  distance  of  about  6  miles 
from  the  city.  It  contains  several  beautiful  villages  and 
country  seats,  and  is  a  place  of  great  resort  in  the  warm 
season. 

In  an  excursion  to  Paterson  and  to  the  Passaic  Falls, 
the  Paterson  rail  road,  which  commences  at  Jersey  City, 
is  taken.  The  whole  length  of  the  road  is  about  15  miles, 
in  a  northwesterly  direction  from  New-York,  and  affords 
an  easy  conveyance  to  the  Passaic  Falls  and  the  thriving 
manufacturing  village  m  their  vicinity.  The  oerpendicu- 
lar  pitch  is  70  feet  into  a  narrow  and  rocKy  chasm, 
thouffh  most  of  th  water  has  been  diverted  into  a  canal 
in  another  direction,  for  hydraulic  purposes ;  still  the 
scenery  is  wild  and  imposing,  and  the  falls  are  among  the 
greatest  natural  curiosities  of  this  country.  The  Morris 
canal,  noticed  at  p.  80,  passes  near  them. 

Hoboken  and  Weehawk  are  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  opposite  the  northern  parts  of  New. York, 
near  which  is  the  Hoboken  du  dling  ground^  which  can- 
not be  easily  approached,  except  in  a  row  boat. 

Schooley's  Mountain,  50  miles  west  of  New- York,  was 
noticed  at  p.  81. 

Lmg  Branch,  is  30  miles  south  of  New- York,  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  New-Jersey,  and  on  the  immediate  bank 
of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  an  extensive  view  of  which  is  here 
obtained.    A  bathing  establishment  is  erected,  and  the 


1* 


.t^lt.^ 


HURL  TATE. 


bank,  which  is  elevated  to  a  height  of  30  or  40  feet  for 
several  miles,  affords  a  beautiful  promenade.  Sandy 
Hook  and  Ncversink  can  be  visited  on  this  route,  the 
heights  of  the  latter  affording  an  extensive  view  of  the 
marine  coast. 

The  Harlaem  Rail  Road  commences  near  the  City 
Hall,  and  extends  to  Harlaem,  8  miles  distant.  The 
tunnel  at  Yorkville,  about  6  miles  from  the  city,  through 
a  solid  rock  of  some  extent,  is  an  object  of  curiosity,  and 
will  of  itself  amply  compensate  a  traveller  for  a  trip  over 
the  road.  In  approaching  Harlaem,  the  Asylum  for  the 
Insane,  on  very  elevated  ground,  and  the  heights  of  Fort 
Washington,  arc  readily  distinguished. 

By  extending  an  excursion  still  further  north,  an  ex- 
amination of  the  Croton  Aqueduct^  designed  to  supply 
the  city  with  pure  water,  may  be  had  at  several  interest- 
ing  points.  The  whole  length  of  this  aqueduct,  when 
finished  from  New- York  to  the  Croton  river,  will  be  45 
miles.  It  is  now  in  a  state  of  great  forwardness,  and 
will  probably  be  completed  in  1 842.  Its  cost  will  not  be 
less  than  10  or  ^12,000,000. 

In  returning  from  Harlaem,  by  taking  a  private  car- 
riage and  pa-^sing  down  the  East  river  side.  Hurl  Gate, 
the  Alms  House  and  House  of  Refuge  may  be  visited. 

Hurl  Gate  is  a  narrow  and  apparently  a  dangerous 
etrait  in  the  river,  8  miles  from  the  city,  between  the  isl- 
ands of  Manhattan  and  Parsell  on  the  N.  W.,  and  Long 
Island  on  the  S.  E.,  in  which,  at  low  water,  there  are  nu- 
merous whirlpools  or  currents,  occasioned  by  huge  masses 
of  rock  projecting  in  various  places,  giving  to  the  river 
only  a  very  contracted  passage.    At  high  water,  these 


l*|.    -:  ;; 


. 


BROOKLYN. 


99 


)  feet  for 

Sandy 

route,  the 

3W  of  the 

r  the  City 
int.  The 
f,  through 
osity,  and 
a  trip  over 
jm  for  the 
its  of  Fort 

rth,  an  ex- 
to  supply 
al  interest- 
iuct,  when 
will  be  45 
dness,  and 
will  not  be 

irivate  car- 
Hurl  Gate, 
visited, 
dangerous 
een  the  isl- 
and Long 
lere  are  nu- 
uge  masses 
;o  the  river 
crater,  these 


masses  are  more  or  less  concealed,  and  the  current  is  in 
a  degree  unrutflcd.  Losses  of  vessels  were  formerly  ex- 
perienced here ;  but  none  have  been  known  in  some 
years. 

Brooklyn,  (on  Lonj;  Island,)  directly  opposite  New- 
York,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  tiie  East  river,  is 
reached  by  steamboats,  which  are  constantly  plying  at 
the  ferry  between  Fulton  stret    in  New- York  and  Ful- 
ton street  in  Brooklyn  ;  at  the  ferry  from  Catharine  street 
in  New- York  to  Main  street  in  Brooklyn  ;  at  the  Jack* 
son  street  or  Navy  Yard  ferry ;  and  at  the  south  ferry 
between  Whitrhall  in  New- York  and  Atlantic  street  in 
Brooklyn.     The  growth  of  Brooklyn  (which  was  charter- 
ed as  a  city  in  ]631y  has  been  almost  unexampled.     In 
1«20,  it  had    a   population  of    (mly  7000;    in    1835    it 
had    increased  to  25,000;    and  it  is   now  (1840)  prob- 
ably    not    less    than    35,000.      Besides    several    public 
buildings,  including   a  City  Hall,  the    city  contains  20 
churches,  5  banks,  2  insurance  companies,  and  several 
literary  institutions ;  among  which,  the  Collegiate  Insti- 
tute for  Young  Ladies  stands  pre-eminent.     Its  contiguity 
to  t!io  metropoHs,  and  the  facilities  afforded  for  Cv'^mmuni- 
cating  between  the  two  places,  have  induced  many  mer- 
chants and  men  of  business  to  select  Brooklyn  as  a  resi- 
dence in  preference  to  the  upper  part  of  New- York.     The 
former  also  contains  several  elegant  country  seats  and 
public  gardens.     Those  on  the  bank  contiguous  to  the 
East  river,  from  their  elevated  situation,  overlooking  the 
bay  of  New-York,  and  commanding  a  view  of  a  great 
part  of  that  city,  are  peculiarly  attractive  and  romantic. 
Northeasterly,  on  a  tract  of  land  called  the  Wallabout, 


100 


ROCKAWAV. 


I   '' •      ■  n! 


ff 


is  a  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  where  are  erected  a  house  for  the 
commandant,  several  spacious  warehouses,  and  an  im- 
mense edifice,  under  which  the  largest  t  of  war  are 
built. 

Brooklyn  is  intimately  connected  with  important  events 
of  the  revolution,  and  in  its  vicinity  are  pointed  out  some 
remaining  vestiges  of  fortifications  and  military  works 
erected  during  that  eventful  period.  The  roaa  to  Flat- 
bush  (4  miles  east)  crosses  the  ground  on  which  the  bat- 
tle of  the  27th  July,  1776,  was  fought,  which  resulted  in 
a  severe  loss  to  the  Americans  and  the  capture  of  Gene- 
rals Sullivan  and  Sterling.  The  marshes  in  which  so 
many  lives  were  lost  in  retreating  from  the  British  army 
are  south  of  this. 

The  Brooklyn,  Jamaica  and  Long  Island  rail  road 
commences  at  Atlantic  street  or  South  Ferry,  and  passing 
through  Jamaica,  a  pleasant  village,  12  miles  from  Brook- 
lyn, reaches  Hicksville,  15  miles  farther.  From  thence 
it  is  designed,  ultimately,  to  extend  it  to  Grcensport, 
on  the  east  end  of  Long  Island,  about  70  miles  from 
Hicksville. 

From  Jamaica  to  Rockaway,  bordering  on  the  Atlan- 
tic, is  9  mile^.  Since  the  erectioil  of  the  Marine  Pavilion, 
one  of  the  most  elegant  public  establishments  in  the  union, 
this  has  become  a  place  of  much  resort  in  the  summer 
months.  A  fine  view  of  the  ocean  is  here  obtained, 
which,  from  its  unceasing  roar  and  turbulence,  is  rendered 
unusually  sublime. 


NKW-VORK  TO  ALBANV. 


101 


B  for  tho 
1  an  im- 
'  war  arc 

,nt  events 
out  some 
ry  works 
1  to  Flat- 
h  the  bat- 
esulted  in 
;  of  Gene- 
which  so 
itish  army 

aAlL   ROAD 

nd  passing 

pm  Brook- 

)m  thence 

rcensport, 

iles  from 

Ihc  Atlan- 
Pavilion, 

Ithe  union, 

summer 

obtained, 

rendered 


FROM   NEW-YORK   TO  ALBANY, 

The  distance,  by  water,  is  141  miles,  as  follows : 


Distance  from 


a, 

o 

♦J 

o 
a 


I 

CI 

52; 

New- York, 

Weehawkcn, 6       6 

Palisadoes,  southern  termination, 2       8 

Fort  Washington, 4     13 

Tappan  Bay,  southern  extremity, 12     24 

«ingSing, 8     32 

Haverstraw  Bay, , .  2     34 

Stony  Point, 5     39 

V('rj)lanck's  Point,. , . , , 1  .  40 

Horse  Race,  (Hijrhlands,) 2     42 

Anthony*s  Nose, 3     45 

West  Point, , 5     50 

Pollopel  Island, 6     56 

Newburgh, 4     60 

Milton, 11     71 

Poughkeepsie, 4     75 

Hyde  Park, 5     80 

Rhinebeck 10     90 

Redhook,  lower  landing, » 7     97 

Rc'dhook,  upper  do., 3  100 

Catskill, 11  111 

Hudson, 5  116 

Coxsackie, 8  124 

Kinderhook, , 2  126 

New-Baltiraorc, 4  130 

Schodack, 4  134 

Albany, 10  144 


> 

144 
138 
136 
132 
120 
112 

no 

.05 
104 
102 
99 
94 
88 
84 
73 
68 
63 
53 
46 
43 
32 
27 
19 
18 
13 
9 


%'t 


102 


PALIflADOES — FORT  LEE. 


f 


k 


'!i 


i      J      '» 


lit 


i 


ft't ' 


i  i 

!:li 


Boats  loavo  New- York  for  Albany  at  7  o'clock  A.  M. 
and  at  5  1*.  M.,  and  tin;  trij)  in  usually  performed  in  about 
12  hours — fare  .^3,  exclusive  of  meals.  A  morning  boat 
will  prove  the  most  interest  injij  to  those  who  have  never 
performed  ihc  route  by  day-lij;lil  ;  as  it  will  atlbrd  an  op- 
porturiit)/  of  witnessinjr  tin;  rich  scenery  and  numerous 
villages  and  country  seals  between  the  two  cities. 

Wlehawken,  about  6  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  west 
eido  of  the  river,  is  pointed  tv.f  to  the  traveller  as  the 
ground  on  which  Gen.  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with  Col. 
Burr. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  seen  on  elevated  ground,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  about  7  miles  from  the  city. 

The  Palisadoes,  which  first  make  their  appearance  on 
the  Hudson,  about  8  miles  from  New- York,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  are  a  range  of  rocks  from  20  to  550  feet 
in  height,  and  extend  from  thence  to  'J'appan,  a  distance 
of  about  20  miles.  In  some  places  they  rise  almost  per. 
pcndicularly  from  the  shore,  and  form,  for  several  miles  in 
extent,  a  solid  wall  of  rock,  diversified  only  by  an  occa- 
sional fishing  hut  on  the  beach  at  their  base,  or  wood 
slides  down  their  sides,  and  sometimes  by  an  interval  of  a 
few  acres  of  arable  land»  aflfording  an  opening  for  a  land- 
ing  place,  and  a  steep  road  leading  to  their  top.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  land  is  varied  by  hill  and 
dale,  cultivated  fields  and  woods,  with  cottages  and  coun- 
try scats.  The  land  in  this  place,  however,  back  from 
the  river,  rises  in  rocky  hills,  and  becomes  more  precipi- 
tous as  you  advance  into  Westchester  county. 

Twelve  miles  from  New- York,  the  boat  passes  the  site 
of  Fort  I^ee,  on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadocs,  at  the  bcij^ht 


I  ;fl  II' 


i 


m 


V  > 


TAPPAN  BAY TARRVTOWfl, 


iO'S 


ock  A.  M. 

id  in  about 
irning  boat 
liave  luvcr 
rtbrd  an  op- 
i  numerous 
[ties. 

on  tbe  west 
ellcr  as  the 
cl  with  Col. 

ound,  on  the 

city, 
ipcarance  on 

on  the  west 

0  to  550  feet 
n,  a  distance 
ie  almost  pcr- 
vcral  miles  in 
J  by  an  occa- 
jasc,  or  wood 

1  interval  of  a 
ng  for  a  land- 
top.  On  the 
d  by  hill  and 
,ges  and  coun- 
ir,  back  from 

more  precipi- 

ity. 

passes  the  site 

I,  at  the  hcij^bt 


of  300  feet  above  the  river  ;  nearly  oppoiitc  to  which,  on 
a  h'lfrh  hill  on  tho  cait  8id<;  of  the  river,  stood  Fort 
VVasiii.vjton.  In  October,  1776,  after  the  evacuation  of 
New- York  by  tho  American  troops,  followed  the  battle 
of  White  Plains,  by  which  name  is  known  the  high  ground 
on  tlic  east,  between  the  Hudson  river  and  tho  Sound 
above  Kinijsbridgo,  whence  Washington  retreated  to 
Peekskill.  Fort  Wasliington  was  then  taken  by  the  Hes- 
sians and  British,  and  the  garrison,  composed  of  2600 
militia  and  regular  troops,  surrendered  prisoners  of  war. 
ii  The  surrender  of  Fort  Lee  followed  soon  after  Washing- 
ton  crossed  the  Hudson. 

PiiiLiPSBL'iKJii,  a  small  but  neat  village,  is  seen  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  at  a  distance  of  17  miles  from  New- 
York. 

Seven  miles  farther,  tho  river  expands  to  a  width, 
of  from  two  to  five  miles,  and  forms  what  is  called 
Tappan  Day.  The  littlo  village  of  Tappan,*  a  place  of 
much  note  during  Andre  and  Arnold's  conspiracy,  is  situ- 
ated on  its  western  shore,  about  4  miles  north  of  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Bay.  The  spot  of  Andre's  grave  is 
still  pointed  out  near  this  village,  though  his  remains  were 
conveyed  to  England  a  few  years  since,  by  order  of  the 
British  government. 

About  2  miles  above  Tappan  village,  on  the  eastern 
shore,  is  tho  village  of  Tarrytown,  where  Andre  was 
captured  by  Paulding,  Van  Wart  and  Williams,  the 
American  militia-men.     Paulding  died  some  years  ago. 


*  This  is  the  point  at  which  the  New- York  and  Erie 
rail  road  commences,  and  which  it  is  contemplated  to  ex- 
tend to  Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  about  470  miles. 


11 

1 

1    Jm 

1 

H 

Warn 

m 

ii 

I 

''Pii, 

'r^  . 

•if 

1-  !■'  :  i' 

li 

fie)  [ilm 

ft  '!|.'5 ; 

■■'■1 

?  ,1      -  >i 

"5'         ;•     ■;      : 

1  ■. '[ 

m 

ii 

it 


JI^H 

i 

P: 

''  ii  ■     '  ■  '  n 

tiJI'  •  .*^  ' 

Li!"   i.^tdl 

M  1)^ 

Ht 

'"m\ 

ir 

^;.!i 

[ijiij       V 

^UHU 

« IK 

III, 

11 

H 

(" 

1  (b^H 

fa  1'     t 

1    ■ 

! 

1 

104 


HAVERSTRAW  BAY — THE  IIICIILANDS. 


*nd  a  monument  was  erected  over  liis  grave  by  the  cor- 
poration of  New-York.  Van  Wart  died  more  recently, 
and  a  monument  to  liis  memory  has  been  erected  by  the 
citizens  of  Westchester  county.  It  stands  by  the  road 
side,  in  a  retired  valley  in  the  town  of  Greenbush,  about 
three  miles  cast  of  Tarrytown. 

Near  the  northern  extremity  of  Tappan  Bay,  about  9 
miles  from  its  commencement,  on  the  eastern  shore,  is 
the  Sing  Sing  state  prison.  It  comprises  800  dormitories 
or  solitary  cells,  is  4  stories  high,  and  occupies  about  50 
by  500  feet  of  ground.  From  each  end  of  the  ,  lain  build- 
ing, which  stands  parallel  with  the  river,  are  carried  out 
wings,  in  a  westerly  direction,  300  feet  in  extent,  form- 
ing a  spacious  inner  yard,  open  only  to  the  river.  The 
wings,  composed  of  marble,  are  constructed  for  work- 
ehops,  a  chapel,  kitchen,  hospital,  &c.  The  number  of 
convicts  in  the  prison  is  usually  from  800  to  1000. 

Sleepy  HoUoio,  the  place  where  Washington  Irving 
locates  the  scene  of  his  tale  bearing  that  name  in  the 
"  Sketch  Book,"  is  a  short  distance  north  of  Sing  Sing. 

Haverstraw  Bay  commences  34  miles  from  New- York, 
and  terminates  at  Stony  and  Verplanck's  Points ;  being 
about  6  miles  in  length,  a'^d  from  2  to  4  in  width.  Hav- 
erstraw village  is  on  the  west  side  of  tliis  bay,  2  miles  from 
its  commencement. 

The  Highlands,  or  Fislikill  Mountains,  which  first  ap- 
pear  about  40  miles  from  New- York,  w^ill  attract  notice, 
not  only  from  their  grandeur  and  sublimity,  but  also  from 
their  association  with  some  of  the  most  important  events 
of  the  revolution.     This  chain  of  mountains  is  about  IG 


I 


vs  a. 


CALUW ell's  landing. 


105 


the  cor- 
rcccntlv, 
;d  by  the 
the  road 
sh,  about 

,  about  9 
I  shore,  is 
Drmitories 
about  50 
ain  buihi- 
arried  out 
unt,  form- 
ircr.  The 
for  work- 
lumbcr  of 
00. 

on  Irving 
ne  in  the 
ig  Sing. 

cw-York, 
ts ;  being 
h.  Kav- 
liles  from 

Ih  first  ap- 
[ct  notice, 
I  also  from 
tnt  events 
about  IG 


I 


miles  in  width,  and  extends  a,lo»g  both  sides  of  the  Hud- 
son, to  the  distance  of  20  miles.  The  heiglit  of  the  prin- 
cipal has  been  estimated  at  15fj5  feet.  According  to  the 
theory  of  the  late  Doctor  Mitchell,  this  thick  and  solid 
barrier  seems  in  ancient  days  to  havo  imi)cded  the  course 
of  tiie  water,  and  to  have  raised  a  lake  high  enough  to 
cover  all  the  country  to  Quaker  Hill  and  the  Laconick 
Mountains  on  the  east,  and  to  Shawangunk  and  the  Cats- 
kill  Mountains  on  the  west  ;  extending  to  the  Little 
Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to  Hadley  Falls  on  the  Hud- 
son— but  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  tho  mountain 
chain  has  been  broken,  and  the  rushing  waters  found 
their  way  to  tho  now  New- York  bay.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  Highlands,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is  the  site 
of  an  old  fort  on  Verplanck's  Point,  o})posite  to  which 
stood  the  fort  of  Stony  Point,  which  was  taken  from 
Gen.  Wayne  in  1778,  and  re-taken  by  him  the  same 
year.  Between  these  points  the  frigate  was  stationed 
which  received  Gen.  Arnold,  after  his  treachery. 

Caldwell's  Landlng,  44  miles  north  of  New- York,  is 
the  first  landing  made  by  the  boats  in  ascending  the  river ; 
directly  opposite  to  which  is  Pekkskill,  pleasantly  situ- 
ated about  half  a  m'le  from  the  river. 

A  short  distance  north  of  Caldwell's,  commences  what 
is  termed  the  Horse  Race.  This  consists  of  an  anjrle  in  the 
river,  which,  for  a  little  more  than  a  mile,  takes  an  east- 
wardly  direction,  contracted  to  a  very  narrow  space  with- 
in bold  and  rocky  mountains  ;  one  of  which,  Ajsthonv's 
Nose,  is  1228  feet  high,  and  is  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Montgomery  creek,  overlooking  Forts  Montgomery  and 
Clinton.     It  was  at  this  point,  between  the  Nose  and 


"'I  n! 


:'ig!'- 


"-»'.. 


i 
i    h 

! 

Br-r 

if!  ■  'i' 

Hi; 

iji  1 

S,   ■  i 

Si  1 

1  ^  1 

s- 

111! 

^ 

106 


3!^ 


WEST  POINT. 


»'] 


Fort  Montgomery,  that  a  chain  was  stretched  across  lh& 
river  by  the  Americans  in  1777,  to  prevent  the  ascent  of 
vessels ;  but  it  was  destroyed,  and  the  two  forts,  under 
the  command  of  Gen.  Putnam,  captured  by  the  British 
troops  under  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  when  on  his  way  to  co- 
operate with  Gen.  Burgoyne  ;  the  news  of  whose  surren- 
der,  however,  reached  Sir  Henry  when  he  had  proceeded 
as  far  as  Kingston,  50  miles  high  or  up,  and  changed  his 
advance  into  a  retreat.  Bloody  Pond,  so  called  from  its 
being  the  place  in  which  the  bodies  of  the  slain  were 
thrown  after  the  defences  of  these  forts,  is  in  the  rear  of 
Fort  Chnton. 

West  Point,  50  miles  from  New- York,  one  of  the 
most  impregnable  posts  during  the  revolutionary  war,  is 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,  near  the  en- 
trance  of  the  Highlands  on  the  north.  It  formed  an  im- 
portant  fastness  of  the  American  army  during  the  eight 
years  contest  with  the  British  nation ;  and  the  conse- 
quence attached  to  it,  in  a  military  point  of  view,  was 
evinced  by  the  repeated  but  unsuccessful  efforts  of  the 
enemy  to  obtain  it.  It  was  here  that  Arnold  conceived 
the  plan  of  bartering  his  country  for  gold.*  This  con- 
spiracy, however,  which  aimed  a  death  blow  to  liberty  in 
the  western  hemisphere,  resulted  only  in  the  universal 
contempt  and  iornominy  of  Arnold,  and  in  the  lamented 
death  of  the  unfortunate  Andre.    There  are  here  at  pre- 

*  The  residence  of  Gen.  Arnold  was  at  the  house  and 
farm  of  CJol  Beverly  Robinson,  opposite  West  Point,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The  house  is  still  a  con- 
spicuous  object,  as  well  as  the  one  in  which  Arnold  fixed 
his  head-quarters. 


WEST   POINT. 


107 


ross  the 
3cent  of 
3,  under 

British 
y  to  co- 
5  surren- 
oceeded 
nged  his 

from  its 
lin  were 
le  rear  of 

le  of  the 
ry  war,  is 
r  the  en- 
ed  an  im- 
ithe  eight 
he  conse- 
riew,  was 
rts  of  the 
conceived 

This  con- 
hberty  in 
universal 
lamented 
)re  at  pre- 

louse  and 
IPoint,  on 
Itill  a  con- 

lold  fixed 


I 


sent  a  number  of  dwelling  houses,  and  a  military  acade- 
my, built  on  the  plain  which  forms  the  bank  of  the  river, 
186  feet  in  height,  to  which  a  road  ascends  on  the  north 
side  of  the  point.  In  the  back  ground,  and  elevated  on 
a  mass  of  rocks  598  feet  in  height,  is  the  site  of  Fort 
Putnam.  Silence  and  decay  now  mark  the  spot  of  this 
once  formidable  fortress.  Its  mouldering  ruins,  however, 
convey  a  pretty  correct  idea  of  the  impregnable  barrier 
its  ramparts  once  presented  to  the  enemies  of  freedom. 

The  MiLiTAiiv  AcADi'.MY  here  established  by  con<Tress, 
was  first  organized  in  1802.  Of  the  number  of  applicants 
for  admission  to  this  institution,  a  preference  is  usually 
given,  first,  to  the  sons  of  officers  of  the  revolution  ;  and 
secondly,  to  the  sons  of  deceased  officers  of  the  last  war. 
None  are  admitted  under  the  age  of  14  years,  nor  above 
the  age  of  22,  The  number  of  ead.itii  is  limited  to  25(1, 
ailordinrr  an  annual  admission  of  about  GO.  In  addition 
to  the  various  sciences  which  are  tanrrht  here,  the  cadets 
are  instructed  in  all  the  practical  minutia3  of  tactics ; 
comprehending  the  lowest  duties  of  the  private  soldier, 
as  well  as  the  highest  duties  of  the  officer. 

Several  of  the  buildings  at  West  Point  are  elegant,  and 
among  the  number  may  be  ranked  a  spacious  and  costly 
hotel,  which  is  a  ju'ominent  object  from  the  river.  Near 
the  north  eastern  extremity  of  the  parade  grounds,  at 
the  abrupt  bend  of  the  river,  stands  a  monument  of  white 
marble,  consistuig  of  a  bat-e  and  short  column,  on  the  for- 
mer of  wiiich  is  simply  inscribed  on  one  side,  "  Koschis. 
ko,"  it  having  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  that  dis- 
tinguished patriot,  who  resided  here.  Another  monu- 
ment stands  on  the  north  west  corner  of  the  grounds  near 

i2 


K    ! 

:  I': 


1  -ipl 

V   '- 


V  I.    t 


I- 


m 


rii.i 


m:   I  '^ 


108 


NEW-WINDSOR. 


the  road  from  the  landing  to  the  hotel,  upon  a  small  hil> 
lock.  It  is  a  plain  obelisk,  about  20  feet  high,  erected  by 
the  late  Gen.  Brown,  to  the  memory  of  Col.  E.  D.  Wood, 
a  pupil  of  the  institution,  who  fell  leading  a  charge  at  the 
sortie  from  Fort  Erie,  on  the  17th  September,  1814. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  the  south  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parade  ground,  and  several  yards  beneath, 
is  a  spot  called  Kosciusko's  garden,  or  Kosciusko's  re- 
treat. It  is  tiie  place  to  which  the  Polish  patriot  was  ac- 
customed to  retire  to  study,  and  which  was  cultivated  by 
his  own  handsa.  Though  now  neglected,  the  marks  of 
cultivation  are  perceptible  in  the  regularity  of  the  walks 
and  the  arrangement  of  the  trees.  A  more  delightful 
spot  for  recreation  or  repose  cannot  be  imagined,  nor  one 
mor3  suitable  as  a  retreat  from  the  cares  of  the  great 
world,  or  a  sanctuary  for  unfortunate  patriotism  or  perse- 
cuted  virtue. 

PoLLOPEL  Island  is  situated  at  the  northern  entrance 
of  the  Highlands,  6  miles  above  West  Point.  It  consists 
of  a  mass  of  rock,  and  rises  near  the  centre  of  the  river 
between  Breakneck  Hill  on  the  east  and  Butter  Hill  on 
the  west.  The  altitude  of  the  latter  is  1529  feet — that 
of  the  former  is  1187  feet,  and  contains  the  rock  called 
the  Upper  Anthony's  Nose. 

New- Windsor  Passing  the  Highlands,  the  prosptct 
changes  into  a  very  agreeable  contrast.  The  bay  of 
Newburgh  with  the  village  of  the  same  name,  Nev/- 
Windsor,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  the  village  of  FishkUl, 
with  its  numerous  adjacent  manufactories  and  country 
Beats,  together  with  a  view  of  the  Hudson  for  many  miles 
above,  form  a  prospect  which  cannot  fail  to  imnart  much 


y->^ 


ni-u 


I?  iti 


T    " 

i 


mall  hil- 
ected  by 
).  Wood, 
pre  at  tha 
814. 

stern  ex- 
beneath, 
isko's  re- 
)t  was  ac- 
tivated by 
marks  of 
the  walks 
delightful 
id,  nor  one 

I  the  great 

II  or  perse- 

1 

entrance 

;t  consists 
the  river 
,ter  Hill  on 

feet — that 
l-ock  called 

e  prosptct 

he  bay  f'f 

,me,  Nev/- 

f  Fishkill, 

d  country 

any  miles 

loart  much 


m 


NEWBURGH. 


109 


interest.  The  village  of  New-Windsor  stands  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  7  miles  from  West  Point.  It  is 
calculated  for  a  pleasant  place  of  residence,  but  in  busi- 
ness  it  must  yield  to 

Newrurgh.  This  is  an  incorporated  village,  situated 
on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  on  the  west  side  of  tlic  Hudson^ 
10  miles  north  from  West  Point,  and  64  south  from 
Albany.  If  contains  a  population  of  about  5000  inhabit- 
ants'. I>om  its  situation  it  commands  an  extensive  in- 
tercourse and  trade  with  the  country  on  the  west,  and 
bv  means  of  the  Hudson  river,  with  New- York. 

The  Hudson  and  Delaware  rail  -oad,  wiiich  is  to  ex- 
tend from  this  village  to  a  junction  with  the  New- York 
and  Erie  rail  road  at  the  Delaware  river,  has  been  com- 
menced. 

NewburjrJi  was  for  some  time  the  head  quarters  of  the 
American  army  during  the  revolutionary  war ;  and  the 
"stone  liousc"  in  which  Gen.  Washington  quartered  i» 
still  standing.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  froni 
Newburgh  is  Beacon  Hill,  one  of  the  highest  summits  of 
the  Fishkill  mountains,  where  parties  of  pleasure  fre- 
quently resort  in  the  summer  season,  to  witness  an  ex- 
tent of  prospect  including  a  part  of  the  territories  of  five 
different  states.  Tiiis  hill  is  1471  feet  in  height.  Half 
a  mile  south  is  the  New  Beacon,  or  Grand  Sachem,  1685 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  Hudson.  They  are  called 
Beacon  Hills,  from  the  circumstance  that  beacons  were 
erected  on  their  summits  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
The  continuation  of  this  chain  of  mountains  is  lost  in  the 
Appalachian  Range  on  the  north  east,  and  extends  south 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.     Diminished  in  distance,  is 


r 

-'I 
■  4I 


'^ 


'it 


■I 


i 


'■t' ,  ll ' 


no 


POUOHKEErSIE. 


Ml 


m 


seen  West  Point,  environed  by  mountains,  apparently  re- 
posing  on  the  surface  of  the  Hudson,  and  bathing  their 
rocky  summits  in  the  clouds. 

Eight  miles  and  a  half  north  of  Newburjrh,  in  an  ele- 
vated  position  on  the  east  side  of  tlie  river,  is  the  mar.sion 
house  of  the  former  Gov.  George  Clinton ;  two  and  a 
half  miles  from  which,  on  the  west  side,  is  the  small  vil- 
lage of 

Milton.  This  place  is  called  the  halfway  place  be- 
tween New- York  and  Albany,  being  72  1-2  miles  distant 
from  each. 

PouGiiKEEPSiE,  15  miles  nortli  of  Newburgh,  is  beau- 
tifully  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  seen  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  on  the  river  both  above  and  below  the 
town.  It  has  a  population  of  between  9  and  10,000,  and 
is  one  of  the  mo?:t  flourishing  villages  in  the  state.  It 
contains  a  number  of  beautiful  private  residences,  and 
several  public  buildings  highly  creditable  to  the  taste  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  streets,  which  are  numerous,  are 
well  paved,  and  the  side  walks  ample  and  neat.  Man- 
sion Square  and  the  neighboring  hill,  whose  brow  has 
been  crowned  with  a  beautiful  temple  of  learning,  aiford 
a  landscape  of  great  extent  and  beauty.  On  the  south 
they  overlook  the  village  and  the  beautiful  district  of 
country  extending  to  the  Fishkill  range  of  mountains  and 
the  Highlands.  On  the  west  and  north  are  seen  in  the 
distance  the  Shawangunk  and  Catskill  mountains,  the 
Hudson  river  intervening  ;  while  on  the  east  the  prospect 
is  bounded  only  by  the  mountainous  regions  of  western 
Connecticut  and  Massachusetts. 


CkTSKlLL. 


rvt 


irently  re- 
hing  llieir 

,  in  an  ele- 
le  mar.sion 
two  and  a 
J  small  vil- 

y  place  be- 
iiiles  distant 

gli,  is  beau- 
en  for  a  con- 
id  below  the 
10,000,  and 
le  state.     It 
idences,  and 
the  taste  of 
imcrous,  are 
ineat.     Man- 
ise  brow  has 
rning,  afford 
n  the  south 
il   district  of 
lountains  and 
seen  in  the 
(untains,   the 
the  prospect 
is  of  western 


Opposite  Poughkeepsie  is  a  small  village,  called  New 
Paltz. 

HvDE  Park  Landing  is  5  miles  north,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river.  Near  it  are  a  number  of  country  seats 
From  thence,  4  miles  farther,  is  a  landing-  place,  leading 
to  Staatsburgh,  1  mile  distant,  in  the  town  of  Hyde 
Park.  From  thence  to  Rhincbeck  Landing  (east  side) 
Is  5  miles* — thence  to  Rodhook  Lower  Landing  (same 
side)  is  7  miles — thence  to  Redhook  Upper  Landing,  (same 
Bide)  3  miles — thence  2  miles  to  the  seat  of  the  late  Chan- 
cellor Livingston — thence  7  miles  to  the  manor  house  of 
tlie  late  Lord  Livingston  (same  side) — thence  1  mile  to 
Oakhill — thence  1  mile  to 

Catskill.  This  village  takes  its  name  from  a  large 
creek  which  flows  through  it,  and  empties  into  the  Hud- 
son at  that  place.  It  is  situated  on  tlie  west  bank  of  the 
river,  32  miles  from  Albany,  and  contains  a  population  of 
about  3000  inhabitants.  On  Catskill  creek  are  a  number 
of  mills  and  manufactories,  and  the  general  appearance 
of  the  village  is  highly  flattering,  as  it  respects  its  future 
growth  and  prosperity.  The  Catskill  and  Canajoharie 
rail  road,  a  few  miles  of  which  has  Been  finished,  com- 

*Near  this  place,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is 
Kingston  Landing,  and  the  commencement  of  the  Dela- 
ware  and  Hudson  canal.  It  extends  in  a  southwester- 
ly direction  to  the  forks  of  the  Dyberry  on  the  Laxa wax- 
en river,  Pennsylvania,  distant  l03  miles,  lockage  1438 
feet.  It  was  originally  intended  by  the  company  to  have 
made  this  canal  to  Keen's  pond,  1 3  miles  from  its  present 
termination,  but  it  has  been  abandoned  and  a  rail  road 
substituted,  which  extends  3  miles  west  of  Keen's  pond 
to  the  antliracite  coal  mines  of  Pennsylvania. 


"  n-  '-JIM 


«'  » 


..!-! 


^;r<'    .. 


^..M 


1     (It    !    i 


:>.! 


li^  ^'y'i 


I  iipi 

t  m 


i     1', 


■•■■(!■  'H 


I  m 


Hfjjl 


312 


riNE  ORCHARD. 


mences  at  this  place,  and  is  to  extend  to  Canajoharie, 
on  the  Mohawk  river,  distant  about  70  miles. 

Catskill  is  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  Kats- 
bergs  or  Cntskill  mountains,  which  arc  seen  for  many 
miles  along  the  Hudson,  and  here  assume  a  truly  majestic 
and  sublime  appearance.  The  highest  elevation  of  this 
range  of  mountains  is  in  tiie  county  of  Greene,  from  8 
to  12  miles  distant  from  the  river,  including  the  Round 
Top,  3804  feet,  and  High  Peak,  3718  feet  in  heiglit. 
The  village  of  Catskill,  which  was  formerly  visited  prin- 
cipally by  men  of  business,  has  more  recently  become 
the  resort  of  people  of  fashion  and  pleasure,  who  design 
a  tour  to  the 

Pine  Orchard,  a  place  which,  for  several  years  past, 
has  attracted  the  attention  of  all  classes,  and  still  con- 
tinues to  draw  to  it  numbers  of  those  who  are  fond  of 
novelty,  and  especially  of  the  sublime  and  romantic 
scenery  in  which  it  abounds.  Regular  stages  leave  Cats- 
kill  for  the  Pine  Orchard  daily  in  the  warm  season.  The 
whole  distance  is  12  miles,  computed  as  follows :  From 
the  village  to  Lawrence's  tavern,  7  miles — from  thence 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  2  miles — from  thence  to 
Pine  Orchard,  3  miles.  The  distance  is  passed,  in  going, 
in  about  4  hours — in  returning,  in  about  2  hours.  The 
country  through  which  the  road  passes  has  nothing  inter- 
esting in  its  appearance  until  it  reaches  the  mountain, 
being  generally  uneven  and  barren,  and  diversified  with 
but  one  or  two  comparatively  small  spots  of  cultivation, 
upon  which  the  eye  can  rest  with  satisfaction.  A  short 
time  is  usually  taken  up  at  Lawrence's,  for  the  purpose 
of  refreshment,  before  encountering  the  rugged  ascent  of 


m 


'/  '■ 


PINE  ORCHARD. 


113 


lajoharie, 

the  Kats. 

for  many 
y  inaiesiic 
on  01  this 
e,  from  8 
he  Round 
in  height, 
sited  prin- 
ly  become 
,^ho  design 

years  past, 
d  still  con- 
ire  fond  of 
romantic 
leave  Cats- 
ason.    The 
iws:  From 
;roni  thence 
thence  to 
d,  in  going, 
.om*s.    The 
thing  inter- 
mountain, 
irsified  with 
cultivation, 
A  short 
;he  purpose 
d  ascent  of 


the  mountains.  This  part  of  the  road  is  generally  goo(s 
but  circuitous,  and  often  passes  on  tlic  brink  of  some 
dt!Cp  ravijic,  or  at  the  foot  of  some  frowning  precipice, 
inspiring  at  times  an  unwelcome  degree  of  terror.  The 
rock  upon  which  the  hotel  stands,  forms  a  circular  plat- 
form, of  an  uneven  surface,  and  includes  about  six 
acres.  It  in  elevated  above  the  Hudson  upwards  of  2200 
feet.*  The  Hotel  is  140  feet  in  length,  24  feet  in  width, 
and  4  stories  high,  having  piazzas  in  front  of  the  whole 
length,  and  a  wing  cxtendinj?  in  the  rear  for  lodging 
rooms.  It  is  well  furnished,  and  possesses  every  conven- 
ience and  acconunodation  requisite  to  the  comfort  and 
good  cheer  of  its  numerous  guests.  The  prospect  from 
Pine  Orchard  embraces  a  greater  extent  and  more  diver- 
eity  of  scenery  than  is  to  be  found  in  any  other  part  of 
the  state,  or  perhaps  of  the  United  States.  The  vast  va^ 
rioty  of  fields,  farms,  villages,  towns  and  cities  between 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  the  north,  the  High- 
lands  on  the  south,  and  the  Taghknaick  mountains  on 
the  east,  together  with  the  Hudson  river,  studded  with 
islands  and  vessels,  some  of  which  may  be  seen  at  even 
the  distance  of  GO  miles,  are  apparent  in  a  clear  atmos- 


*  Capt.  Partridge,  who  visited  the  Catskill  mountains 
in  1828,  made  the  following  barometrical  observations : 

Altitude  of  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  Pine  Orchard, 
above  the  surface  of  the  Hudson  river  at  Catskill  vil- 
lage, 2212  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  site  of  Lawrence's  tavern, 
7  miles  from  Catskill,  1882  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  turnpike  gate  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  1574  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  Green's  bridge,  947  feet. 


'■ 


% 


#» 


.     -^if 


114 


/klUimS — HUDS6N. 


1.'^- 


t'  ■   .': 


phere  to  the  naked  eye ;  and  when  tho  scene  is  gradually 
unfolded,  at  the  opening  of  the  day,  it  asHVimcs  rather  tho 
appearance  of  cncliantmcnt  than  reality.  It  is  not  un- 
•  common,  at  this  place,  to  witness  storms  of  snow  and 
rain  in  their  season,  midway  the  mountain,  while  all  is 
clear  and  serene  on  its  summit.  About  2  miles  from  the 
Hotel  are  the  Kaaterskill  Falls,  which  take  their 
name  from  the  stream  on  which  they  are  situated.  This 
stream  is  an  outlet  ^i  two  small  lakes,  half  a  mile  in 
the  rear  of  the  Hotel.  Pursuing  a  westerly  course  of  a 
mile  and  a  half,  the  waters  fall  perpendiculurly  175  feet, 
and  after  pausing  a  moment  on  a  projection  of  the  rock, 
plunge  again  down  a  precipice  of  85  feet  mo  'a,  making 
the  whole  descent  of  the  falls  260  feet.  The  road  to 
the  falls  is  extremely  rough ;  but  this  objection  ;ill  hard- 
ly deter  the  traveller  from  a  visit  to  a  spot  so  novo?  and 
romantic 

Athens,  (on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,)  five  miles 
above  Catskill,  is  an  incorporated  village,  and  contains 
about  1500  inhabitants.  Its  situation  on  a  gentle  slope 
of  land  rising  gradually  from  the  river,  gives  it  a  favora- 
ble appearance.  The  vicinity  of  Athens  to  Hudson,  im- 
mediately opposite,  seems  to  forbid  that  importance  in 
point  of  trade  which  its  location  might  otherwise  warrant. 
Athens  furnishes  a  number  of  beautiful  sites  on  the  bank 
of  tho  river ;  some  of  which  are  already  occupied  by  the 
elegant  mansions  of  private  gentlemen. 

The  CiTV  OF  Hudson  stands  on  the  cast  side  of  the 
river,  27  miles  south  of  Albany.  The  plain  on  which 
Hudson  is  situated  rises  abruptly  from  the  river,  by  banks 


I 


4'. 


side  of  the 
on  which 
r,  by  banks 


COXSACKIK    LANUr.NO. 


115 


gradually 
•atlicT  tho 
is  not  un- 
Bnow  and 
liilo  all  ia 
I  from  the 
take  their 
;ed.     This 
a  mile  in 
curse  of  a 
y  175  feet, 
'  the  rock, 
•6,  making 
le  road  to 
I   rill  hard- 
» novc?  and 

five  miles 
d  contains 
;entlc  slope 
it  a  favora- 
udson,  ira- 
)ortance  in 
so  warrant, 
in  the  bank 
>icd  by  the 


from  50  to  60  feet  in  hri|Tht ;  and  terminates  on  the  east, 
at  the  foot  of  hijrli  lands,  wliicii  overlook  tho  city  at  an 
elevation  ot  some  hundred  feet,  and  furnish  a  prospect  of 
the  Hudson  river  and  scenery  for  many  miles  in  extent. 
The  city  contains  about  6000  inhabitants.  Claverack 
creek  on  the  cast,  and  Kindrrhook  creek  on  the  north, 
afford  every  facility  for  mills  and  manufactories,  in  which 
Hudson  abounds.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
appear  a  number  of  country  scats,  with  the  farm  houses 
and  cultivation  in  the  neigliborhood  of  Athens  and  Cats- 
kill,  bounded  by  the  lofty  Katsbcrghs,  rising  in  the  back 
ground  and  mingling  their  rugged  summits  with  the  clouds. 
The  Hudson  and  Berkshire  rail  road,  extending  from 
Hudson  to  the  village  of  West  Stockbridge,  is  about  30 
miles  long.  From  the  latter  ])oint  a  road  is  to  be  con- 
structed to  Springfield,  from  whence  a  rail  road  extends 
to  Boston,  noticed  in  the  "  Route  from  Albany  to  Bos- 
ton," post. 

CoxsACKiE  Landing,  where  are  several  houses  and 
stores,  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  8  miles  north  of 
Hudson.  From  thence  to  Kindcrhook  Landing,  on  the 
east  side,  is  2  miles.  Tho  village  of  Kinderhook  is  5 
miles  east.  Four  miles  further  north  is  the  village  of 
New-Baltimore,  (west  side  ;)  thence  to  Coeymans,  (same 
side,)  2  miles — thence  to  Schodack  village  (same  side)  2 
miles — thence  to  Castleton  Landing  (east  side)  2  miles — 
thence  to  Albany  8  miles. 


>  p  1 

i 

^i.  ft  M 

'    II  !< 

m 


IP- 


116 


1" 


ALBANY. 


f:     ^\:     ^-'1  !' 


I    !   '  i"i 


1  •'! 


'  '     I    *. 


.:  'i 


!    ,h; 


f^*'  ALBANY 

Is  the  capital  of  tlif!  Rtatc  of  New- York,  and  in  poini 
of  wealth,  ]K>nulation,  trade  and  resources,  is  the  second 
city  in  the  stale,  and  llic  pixlh  or  Hcventli  in  the  union. 
It  is  gilaated  on  1^;^  wer.t  side  of  tlio  Hudson  river,  and 
near  tlie  head  of  tide  waU  r.  1 1  was  settled  in  \i'd2  ',  and 
next  to  Jamestown  in  Vir;jinia,  is  the  oldest  settlement  in 
the  United  States.  In  1614,  a  small  fort  and  tradinfr 
house  were  built  by  the  Dutch  on  an  island  liaif  a  mile 
below  the  site  of  t  he  present  city ;  and  soon  afterwards 
Fort  Orange,  where  the  city  now  stands.  The  place  was 
first  called  Aiirania  ;  then  IJevorwyek,  till  10:25;  then 
Fort  Oranrrc  till  1C47,  and  Williamstadt  till  1GG4.  For 
a  lonjr  time  after  its  foundation  it  was  enclosed  with  pali- 
sadoes  or  pickets,  as  a  defence  against  the  Indians,  who 
were  then  numerous  and  powerfid  in  its  vicinity. 

Thouj>h  the  first  a])pearance  of  this  city  is  not  prc})os- 
sessing  to  a  stranger,  still  the  taste  which  has  been  dis- 
played in  the  construction  of  its  puoiic  and  private  build- 
ings— the  constant  din  of  conmiercial  busincs:;  which 
assails  the  ear  of  the  traveller — the  termination  of  the  Erie 
canal  and  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  rail  roud  at  this 
place,  and  many  other  attendant  circumstances,  render 
Albany  an  important  and  interesting  spot. 

The  city  is  divided  into  five  wards,  and  contains  many 
superb  and  elegant  building,.;.  Tiie  principal  avenues  are 
Market,  Pearl,  and  State  fitrects.  The  two  former  run 
parallel  with  tlic  river,  and  the  latter  is  very  spacious, 
extending  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Hudson,  nearly  east 
and  west.     Besides  these,  there  arc  many  other  streets, 


la 
tn 
c 

tifl 


^fi 


■  ^•■r' 


^r. 


in  point 
he  second 
the  union, 
rivor,  and 
\{'A)i;  and 
[.tlcmcnt  in 
nd  trading 
;iaif  a  niilo 
afterwards 
e  place  was 
IG'25;  then 
IGGl.     For 
d  Willi  pali- 
ndians,  who 

ity. 

not  prcpos- 
as  hcen  dis- 
rivatc  huild- 
ncsi;  which 
n  of  the  Erie 
road  at  this 
.noes,  render 

ntains  many 
avenues  are 
former  run 
;ry  spacious, 
,  nearly  east 
itlier  streets, 


ALBANV. 


117 


less  considcrahlo  in  extent,  hi^t  populous  and  crowded 
wiOi  shof)s  and  stores.  ■  Hj. 

The  Caimfoi,,  which  contains  tlie  lei^rislalive  ha!!?,  tlie 
Huprenic  and  clianeery  court  rooms  of  the  state,  the  ntatc 
lihrary,  and  other  ajiartnients  for  puhlic  bu.ineps,  ntands 
at  the  head  of  State  street,  on  an  elevation  of  130  feet 
above  the  level  of  tlie  river.  It  is  a  Rnl)stantial  stone  ed- 
illee,  enetod  at  an  expense  of  i5i^l2O,O()0.  It,  if^  IIT)  feet 
in  length,  130  in  ])readth,  and  50  feet  hij^h,  consistin;^  of 
two  stories  and  a  basement. 

The  Flt.iic  StiiA:iE,  fronting;  tlie  Cnpitol,  is  arranired 
in  the  style  of  a  park,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  costly  iron 
rai)iu<r,  havintr  Hevcral  delightful  wall^a  and  avenues. 

North  of  the  capitol  stands  the  Acadkmv,  one  of  the 
most  elegantly  constructed  buildinirs  in  tho  city.  It  con- 
sists  of  free  stone,  3  stories  high,  and  90  feet  of  front. 

The  CiTv  Hall,  fronting  the  loot  of  Washington  street, 
and  near  the  cp.j)itol  squire,  is  a  costly  edifice  of  white 
marble,  displaying  much  l;iste  in  its  structure,  and  is  or- 
namental  to  the  part  of  the  city  in  which  it  stands.  The 
dome  is  gilded,  and  is  a  conspicuous  object  at  some  dis- 
tance  from  the  city. 

The  new  State  Hat.l,  located  north  of  the  Citv  Hall, 
is  constructing  of  white  marble,  and,  when  finished,  will 
not  be  surpassed  by  any  edifice  in  the  city.  It  will  con- 
tain the  oliiees  of  the  secretary  of  state,  comptroller, 
treasurer,  surveyor  general,  attorney  ge;:eral,  register  in 
chanct  ry,  and  clerk  of  the  suj)reme  court. 

The  Fk MALI-:  Academy,  in  North  Pearl  street,  a  beau- 
tiful  and  classical  edifice,  commanding  a  view  of  the  east- 


■m 


■■'■v' 
1|! 


'Wil 


,i 


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II  :t!i# 


mm 


M'    '  '■' 


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J!!! 


# 


118 


ALBANY. 


em  pprt  of  the  city  and  opposite  shore  of  the  Hudson, 
under  its  popular  principal,  Mr.  Cruttenden,  receives  an 
extensive  patronage. 

The  Baptist  Church,  on  the  same  side  of  the  street, 
and  but  a  few  doors  from  the  Academy,  is  also  a  very 
elegant  structure.  The  pediments  of  both  buildings  pro- 
jecting at  suitable  distances  from  each  other,  give  a  very 
fine  appearance  to  the  street,  by  relieving  the  monotony  of 
the  long  line  of  dwelling-houses  in  the  neighborhood, 
without  materially  obstructing  the  view  of  the  whole. 

There  are  also  20  other  houses  of  public  worship,  seve- 
ral of  which  exhibit  much  taste  in  their  architecture,  six 
banks,  and  one  of  the  best  museums  in  the  country. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange,  built  of  granite,  is  located 
on  the  corner  of  State  and  North  Market  streets. 

Hotels. — The  principal  hotels  in  Albany,  are  the  Ea- 
gle Tavern,  South  Market  street ;  American  Hotel,  State 
street ;  Congress  Hall,  Capitol  Square  ;  Mansion  House, 
City  Hotel  and  Temperance  House,  North  Market  street. 
These  are  all  first  rate  establishments,  handsomely  furnish- 
ed and  well  kept. 

On  a  less  expensive  scale,  are  the  Fort  Orange  Hotel, 
Columbian  Hotel,  and  Montgomery  Hall,  South  Market 
street ;  and  the  Franklin  House  and  Rail  Road  Hotel, 
State  street. 

During  the  sessions  of  the  New- York  Legislature,  Al- 
bany is  crowded  with  strangers,  and  contains  much  of 
the  legal  talent  and  learning  of  the  state.  The  city  is  eli- 
gibly situated  for  trade,  being  a  great  thoroughfare  for  the 
northern  and  western  sections  of  the  country. 


1^ 


a 
b 
c 

h 

i] 
bj 
til 
pc 


1      t 


Hudson, 
ceives  an 

he  street, 
30  a  very 
[dings  pro- 
ivo  a  very 
onotony  of 
rhborhood, 
whole, 
rship,  &eve. 
Lecture,  six 
intry. 

3,  is  located 
ets. 

are  the  Ea- 
[iotel,  State 
sion  House, 
3Lrket  street, 
lely  f umish- 

ange  Hotel, 
uth  Market 
oad  Hotel, 

|islature,  Al- 
ia much  of 
le  city  is  eli- 
Lfare  for  the 


I 


''^. 


EXCUSION  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 


119 


The  Aluany  Basin,  vvhcro  the  waters  of  the  Eric  canal 
unite  with  the  Hudson,  consists  of  a  part  of  the  river  in- 
eluded  between  the  shore  and  an  artificial  pier  erected  80 
feet  in  width  and  4300  h  t  in  Icngtli.  Tlie  pier  contains 
about  8  acres,  and  is  connected  with  the  city  by  draw 
bridcres.  It  is  a  frrand  and  stupendous  work,  on  which 
spacious  and  cxtell^ivc  stores  have  been  erected,  and 
where  an  immense  quantity  of  lumber  and  other  articles 
of  trade  arc  deposited.  TJie  basin  covers  a  surface  of 
32  acres. 

EXCURSION   TO   THE   SPRINGS. 

There  are  two  distinct  routes — one  by  the  way  of 
(Schenectady,  the  other  by  the  way  of  Troy.  We  give  a 
sketch  of  each. 

Route  by  the  way  of  Schenectaday — 37  miles'. 

The  intermediate  distances  arc  as  follow  : 


Miles. 
From  Albany  to  Duel's 

Farm, 3 

.Schenectady, 12 


Miles. 

Ballston  Lake, 10 

Ballston  Sna^ 5 

Saratoga  Springs,....       7 


The  route  is  by  the  way  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson 
and  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  roads,  the  line 
beinor  continuous  to  Sarato^ra  Spriu'^s,  and  a  paH.-'anre 
ctiected  in  about  3  1-2  hours.  The  carriages  of  the  Mo- 
hawk  and  Hudson  company  start  sevoial  tinics  a  day 
from  the  depot  on  the  north  side  of  State  street,  a  little 
belov/  the  Capitol  Square  in  Albany,  and  the  trains  on 
the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  road  r.re  made  to  corres- 
pond therewith. 


k2 


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tii     1 


120 


SCHENECTADY. 


The  Farm  and  Nursery  of  the  late  Jesse  Buel,  Esq. 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  are  crossed  by  the  rail 
road,  about  three  miles  from  Albarv. 

At  the  *'  head  of  the  plane,"  within  a  mile  of  the 
western  extremity  of  the  rail  road,  a  beautiful  view  is 
obtained  of  the  Erie  canal,  the  Mohawk  river,  and  the 
city  of  Schenectady.  A  double  stationary  engine  is 
placed  here,  which  is  used  in  letting  carriages  down  a  de- 
clivity of  115  feet,  half  a  mile  in  extent.  From  thence 
the  road  extends  to  the  city,  uniting  with  the  Saratoga 
and  with  the  Utica  rail  roads,  the  latter  of  which  is  no- 
ticcd  in  the  route  to  Buffalo,  post. 

SCHENECTADY, 

Ffteen  miles  from  Albany,  and  22  from  Saratoga 
Springs,  is  situated  on  the  Mohawk,  a  broad  and  beauti- 
ful  river,  which  forms  its  northern  boundary.  It  was 
burnt  by  the  Indians  in  1690,  and  suffered  a  considerable 
conflagration  in  1819,  since  which  event  the  antique  ap- 
pearance of  tHe  city  has  been  much  improved  by  the  in- 
troduction of  modern  architecture. 

Union  College  is  built  on  an  eminence,  which  over- 
looks the  city  and  the  Mohawk  for  a  number  of  miles. 
The  college  consists  at  present  of  two  brick  edifices,  but 
the  plan  includes  a  chapel  and  other  bulidings  hereafter 
to  be  erected,  in  the  rear,  and  between  those  already  con- 
structed. At  this  institution  about  100  students  are  an- 
nually graduated.  In  numbers  and  respectabilty  Unioj 
College  may  be  ranked  among  the  most  favored  semina- 
ries  in  our  country. 


It  i 
t  ' 

U 


tl 


BALLSTON  LAKE. 


121 


I 


i 


SL,  Esq. 
the  rail 

;  of  the 
view  is 
and  the 
ngine  is 
iwn  a  de- 
m  thence 
Saratoga 
ch  is  no- 


Saratoga 

nd  beauti. 

It  was 

nsiderable 

tique  ap- 

3y  the  in- 

lich  over- 
of  miles, 
ifices,  but 
hereafter 
ready  con. 
its  are  an- 
ility Uniof 
ed  semina. 


The  city  contains  three  banks,  six  churches,  a  spacious 
and  handsome  city  hall,  and  a  population  of  about  6000 
inhabitants. 

The  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road,  passing 
through  the  city,  crosses  the  Mohawk  river  on  a  substan- 
tial bridge  between  8  and  900  feet  long,  and  extends  in  a 
northerly  direction  over  a  heavy  embankment  for  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  to  a  deep  cut,  where  the  Utica  road  di- 
verges to  the  west,  and  the  Saratoga  to  the  northeast. 
This  course  is  pursued  until  it  enters  the  valley  of  the 
Eelplace  creek,  when  it  curves  and  maintains  a  northerly 
course,  passing  along  the  elegant  and  verdant  banks  of 
the  Ballston  Lake,  and  enters  the  eastern  part  of  the  vil- 
lage of  Ballston  Spa,  on  a  curvature  of  considerable  ex- 
tent. From  this  point  the  road  passes  in  a  northerly 
direction  over  the  main  street,  on  a  bridge  about  15  feet 
high,  and  by  means  of  a  heavy  embankment,  reaches  the 
high  grounds  north  of  the  village.  From  thence  a  north- 
easterly course  is  taken  across  the  Kayaderosseras  creek, 
and  continues  in  nearly  a  straight  line  to  Saratoga 
Springs. 

Ballston  Lake,  or  Long  Lake  as  it  is  sometimes  call- 
ed, is  10  miles  from  Schenectady.  A  farm  house  between 
the  lake  and  road,  owned  by  Mr.  Elisha  Curtis,  was  for- 
merly the  residence  of  a  man  of  the  name  of  M'Donald, 
tlie  guide  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  on  his  first  visit  to  the 
mineral  springs  at  Saratoga,  in  1767.  Mr.  M'D.  was  a 
native  of  Ireland,  and  on  his  first  arrival  in  America,  set- 
tied  with  his  brother,  in  1763,  on  this  spot,  where  he  con- 
tinued to  reside  until  his  decease,  in  1823.  Sir  William 
passed  some  days  at  this  house  at  the  time  of  the  visit 


122 


BALLSTON  SPA. 


above  mentioned.  The  lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
5  miles  long  and  1  broad.  The  scenery  around  affords  a 
pleasant  landscape  of  cultivation  and  wood  lands,  no  less 
inviting  to  the  sportsman  than  the  soft  bosom  of  the  lake 
and  its  finny  inhabitants  to  the  amateurs  of  the  rod. 


|i  .\IH 


1  mm 


f>:  .  f 


BALLSTON    SPA, 

Is  5  miles  farther.  Tlie  villajre  lies  in  the  town  of 
Milton,  in  the  county  of  Saratoga;  and  is  situated  in  a 
low  valley,  through  the  c{  ntre  of  vrbich  flows  a  branch 
of  the  Kayaderorseras,  vvith  whose  waters  it  mingles  at 
the  east  end  of  the  village.  The  natural  boundaries  of 
Ballston  Spa  are  well  defined  by  steep  and  lofty  hills  of 
sand  on  the  north  and  west,  and  by  a  ridge  of  land  which 
gradually  slopes  inward,  and  encircles  the  village  on  the 
south  and  east.  The  broad  and  ample  Kayaderosseras 
flows  on  the  northeast  boundary  of  the  village,  and  fur^ 
nislies  a  favorite  resort  for  the  sport 3man  or  for  the  loit- 
erer  along  its  verdant  banks,  Tlie  village  contains 
150  houses,  and  about  1400  inhabitants.  Besides  the 
court  house  for  the  county,  located  here,  there  are  4 
churches,  a  bank,  2  printing  offices  and  a  book-store, 
with,  which  a  reading  room  is  connected,  for  the  accom- 
modation  of  visitants. 

Ballston  Spa  principally  derives  its  celebrity  from  the 
mineral  springs  which  flow"  here  and  at  Saratoga  in  equal 
abundance.  The  spring  first  discovered  in  the  vicinity 
stands  on  the  flat  in  the  west  part  of  the  village.  U.ider 
an  impression  that  the  stone  curb  and  flaging  Vv'ith  which 
it  Vv'as  formerly  surrounded,  had  an  influence,  by  their 
weight,  in  diverting  a  por|,ion  f)f  the  fountain  from  its 


i  in  if 


BALL8TON  SPA. 


123 


if  water 
iffords  a 
,  no  less 
the  lake 
od. 


town  of 
ated  in  a 
a,  branch 
iinp;les  at 
idarics  of 
ly  hills  of 
lid  which 
go  on  the 
ierosseras 
,  and  fur^ 
r  the  loii- 
contains 
3sides  the 
ere   are  4 
ook-store, 
e  accom- 

from  the 
a  in  equal 
e  vicinity 
U.ider 
ith  which 
by  their 
from  its 


natural  course,  they  were  removed  some  years  since,  so 
that  it  is  now  merely  surrounded  with  an  iron  railing. 

The  spring  flows  now,  probably,  from  the  place  where 
it  originally  issued,  some  feet  below  the  surrounding  sur- 
face, which  has  been  elevated  by  additions  of  earth,  for 
the  pur[)ose  of  improving  the  street  in  which  it  stands. 

Near  this  spring,  in  boring  a  few  years  since,  a  mineral 
fountain  called  the  New  >  Washington  Sprinj,  was  dis- 
covered at  a  considerable  depth  beneath  the  surface.  Its 
qualities  are  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  the  spring  last 

mentioned. 

The  Sans  Souci  Spring  is  situated  in  the  rear  of  the 
Sans  Souci,  and  is  considered  the  most  prominent  foun- 
tain  in  the  village.  According  to  an  analysis  of  Doct. 
Steel,  one  gallon  of  the  water  contains  the  following  in- 
gredients  :  chloride  of  sodium,  143  2-3  grs. ;  bicarbonate 
of  soda  12  1-2  grs. ;  bicarbonate  of  magnesia,  39  grs. ; 
carbonate  of  lime,  nearly  6  grs.;  hyuriodate  of  soda, 
1  1-2  grs. ;  silex,  1  gr.  Near  this  fountain  is  a  commodi- 
ous bathing  house  ;  to  which,  not  only  the  waters  of  this, 
but  of  a  number  of  other  adjacent  springs,  are  tributary. 
Between  the  springs  already  mentioned,  there  was  dis- 
covered in  the  summer  of  1817,  a  mineral  spring,  called 
the  Wafihington  Fountain.  It  rose  on  the  margin  of  the 
creek  in  front  of  the  factory  building,  flowing  through  a 
curb  28  feet  long,  sunk  to  the  depth  of  23  feet,  und  was 
liberated  at  the  top  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  jet  d'sau  ; 
but  the  spring  disappeared  in  1821.  An  eifort  to  recover 
it  in  the  summer  of  1839,  was  partially  successful ;  but 
whether  it  can  ever  be  restored  to  original  purity  anJ 
beauty,  is  very  questionable. 


m 


fii 


124 


IJALLSTON  SPA. 


mm 


..  I'll    'y 


=!■!« 


m  $ 


Low's  .Spring  is  near  tho  Sans  Souci,  and  is  very  simi- 
lar to  that  fountain  in  its  properties. 

The  Park  Spring  is  in  the  rear  of  the  Villajre  Hotel, 
and  was  obtained  by  borinj;  to  a  depth  of  270  feet.  A 
copious  stream  flows  therefrom.  T'he  water,  however, 
affords  much  less  of  the  saline  substances  than  either  of 
the  ctlier  springs. 

The  principal  ingredients  of  these  waters  consist  of 
muriate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime, 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  carbonate  of  iron  ;  all  of 
which,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  enter  into  tho  compo- 
sition  of  the  waters,  both  here  and  at  Saratoga. 

The  principal  boarding  houses  are  the  Sans  Souci,  the 
Village  Hotel  and  Mansion  House. 

The  Sans  Souci,  with  its  yards  and  out-houses,  occu- 
pies an  area  of  some  acres  in  the  east  part  of  the  village. 
The  plan  of  the  building,  with  the  extensive  improve- 
ments around  it,  do  much  credit  to  the  taste  and  libe- 
rality of  its  proprietor.  The  edifice  is  constructed  of 
wood,  three  stories  high,  160  feet  in  length,  with  two 
wings  extending  back  153  feet,  and  is  calculated  for  the 
accommodation  of  150  boarders.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
beautiful  yard,  ornamented  with  a  variety  of  tree3  and 
shrubbery,  whidi,  with  its  extensive  piazzas  and  spacious 
halls,  render  it  a  delightful  retreat  during  the  oppressive 
heat  of  summer. 

The  Village  Hotel  is  in  a  convenient  situation,  a 
few  rods  west  of  the  Sans  Souci.  It  is  kept  by  the  pro- 
prietor, Mr.  Clark,  and  is  in  every  respect  an  agreeable 
and  pleasant  boarding  place. 


FROM  ALHANY   VIA  TKOV  TO  SARATOGA. 


123 


ry  simi- 

!  Hotel, 
cct.  A 
owevcr, 
3ither  of 

msist  of 
of  lime, 
I ;  all  of 
)  compo- 

ouci,  the 

;es,  occu- 
e  village, 
improve- 
and  libe- 
ructcd  of 
with  two 
ed  for  the 
idcd  by  a 
tree  3  and 
spacious 
9pprcssive 

.uation,  a 

y  the  pro- 

agreeable 


The  Mansion  House,  near  the  rail  road  bridge,  is  also 
well  kept  by  Mr.  Williams,  its  tenant. 

Mails  arrrivc  at  and  depart  from  Ballston  Spa  every 
day.  Besides  a  post  oflice  at  the  village,  there  is  one  in 
the  town  of  Ballston,  about  three  miles  distant,  to  wliicli 
letters  arc  frequently  m'ssent,  owing  to  the  neglect  of 
correspondents  in  making  the  proper  direction. 

The  reading  room  and  library  may  be  resorted  to  at  all 
times,  and  for  a  moderate  compensation.  Papers  are 
there  furnished  from  all  parts  of  the  Union. 

Route  from  Albany  hy  the  way  of  Troy  to  Saratoga 

Springs — 37  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow : 

Mites. 


By  stage  or  steamhoat. 

Miles. 
From  Albany  to  Troy,.     6 

By  rail  road. 
Waterford, 4 


Mechanicsville, 8 

Ballston  Spa, 12 

Saratoga  Springs, .....     7 


A  stage  or  steamboat  can  be  taken  hourly  at  Albany 
for  Troy.  By  the  former  mode  of  conveyance,  the  first 
object  which  usually  attracts  the  attention  of  the  tourist 
is  the  mansion  of  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  the 
^Mitroon,  and  a  son  of  the  late  patroon  of  the  manor  of 
Renssclaerwick.*  It  stands  immediately  adjoining  the 
northern  bounderics  of  Albany,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  situations  in  the  United  States. 

The  Macadamized  Road  between  Albany  and  West 
Troy,  commences  at  this  place.     It  runs  parallel  with  the 


*  This  manor  comprises  a  great  portion  of  the  counties 
of  Albany  and  Rensselaer — the  city  and  several  patents 
excepted. 


.k 


m 


M 


111 


f«!i     lit       ',,!.■- 

I  III 

i  niA. 


'i 


.*%n 


126 


V.  B.  ARSENAL — WEST  TROY. 


Erie  canal,  near  its  western  bank,  is  between  5  and  6 
miles  long,  of  a  width  sufficient  for  three  carriages  to 
run  abreast,  and  is  one  of  the  best  roads  on  tiie  con. 
tinent.  It  is  the  property  of  an  incorporated  company, 
who  have  expended  between  $90,000  and  $100,000  in 
its  construction.  ^ 

Five  miles  from  Albany,  in  the  village  of  West  Troy, 
is  the  United  States  Arfenal,  consisting  of  handsome 
brick  and  stone  buildings,  beautifully  located  on  the  wes. 
tern  bank  of  the  Hudson.  There  are  here  a  large  quan. 
tity  of  arms  and  munitions  of  war,  with  workshops  for 
repairing  them,  manufacturing  locks,  &c.  The  muskets, 
bayonets,  swords  and  pistols  are  arranged  with  great 
taste,  and  kept  in  fine  order.  Among  the  cannon  in  the 
yard  are  four  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer,  ta- 
ken at  Saratoga ;  four  12's  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at 
Yorktown ;  two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  eight  inch 
mortar,  taken  at  Stony  Point ;  two  old  French  4  poun- 
ders and  14  guns,  sent  by  Louis  XVI.  to  the  continental 
congress  in  the  revolution — all  of  brass,  and  most  of  them 
highly  ornamented,  with  each  an  individual  name  and 
the  inscription  "  ultima  ratio  regium."  There  are  also 
three  or  four  howitzers  which  were  cast  in  New- York  and 
Philadelphia  in  the  revolution,  bearing  the  initials  U.  C. 
for  United  Colonies. 

The  village  of  West  Troy  has  rapidly  increased  with- 
in  a  few  years.  It  contains  a  bank  and  several  manu- 
facturing estdbhshraents,  and  is  a  place  of  much  activity 
and  enterprize.  The  river  is  here  crossed  in  a  ferry 
boat,  to 


■W^r 


TROV 


127 


S  and  6 

iages  to 
tiie  con. 
ompany, 
)0,000  in 

est  Troy, 
landsome 
,  the  wes- 
rge  quan. 
Lshops  for 
;  muskets, 
vith  great 
non  in  the 
witzer,  ta- 
:,  taken  at 
eight  inch 
jh  4  poun- 
lontinental 
istof  them 
name  and 
■c  are  also 
-York  and 
litials  U.  C. 

Based  with- 

Ireral  manu- 

^ch  activity 

in  a  ferry 


"'ROY. 

The  city  is  bounded  on  the  cast  by  a  range  of  hills 
rising  abruptly  frcin  the  alluvial  plain  on  which  the  city 
is  situated,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river.  In  point 
of  location  and  beautiful  natural  scenery,  Troy  is  exceed- 
ed by  few,  if  any,  of  the  towns  and  villages  on  the  Hu  J- 
son.  The  streets,  running  north  and  south,  converge  to- 
gether at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  and  are  crossed  at 
right  angles  by  those  running  east  and  west.  The  build- 
ings are  principally  built  of  brick,  and  ^jxe  shaded  by 
rows  of  trees  on  each  side  of  the  streets,  which  are  pre- 
served remarkably  clean  by  additions  of  slate  and  gravel 
instead  of  pavements.  The  city  contains  6  banks,  12 
churches,  a  court  house,  jail  and  market.  The  Episco- 
PAL  Church  is  a  superb  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture, 
probably  not  exceeded  in  the  United  States.  It  has  a 
venerable  and  imposing  appearance,  and  needs  nothing 
b"t  a  quantity  of  moss  and  ivy  to  make  it  the  picture 
of  one  of  those  ancient  abbeys  so  often  to  be  met  with 
in  the  writings  of  '^^  t  Walter  Scott.  The  New  Precsby- 
TERiAN  Church  also  displays  great  taste  and  libera iity  in 
its  construction,  and  is  highly  ornamental  to  that  part  of 
the  city  in  which  it  stands. 

The  Court  House,  built  of  Sing  Sing  marble,  is  a 
splendid  edifice  after  the  Grecian  model,  perfectly  chaste 
and  classic  in  all  its  parts. 

The  Female  Seminary,  incorporated  by  an  act  of  the 
legislature,  is  a  large  throe  story  brick  building  erected 
by  the  city  corporation.  The  institution  is  under  the 
government  of  a  female  principal,  assisted  by  vice  princi- 

L 


&I 


128 


TROY. 


m 


!»ri"'' 


iiiiii 


i 


I* 


i!   i!, 


.Ill 


pals  and  several  teachers,  whose  exertions  have  given  it  a 
deBerved  celebrity  over  similar  institutions  in  the  state. 

PUBLIC   HOUSES. 

The  Troy  House,  near  the  termination  of  the  rail  road 
in  River  street,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  establislimeut, 
with  a  court  yard  in  the  centre,  and  kept  in  a  style  cor- 
responding with  that  of  the  most  favored  establishments 
in  the  union. 

The  Mansion  Housk,  a  little  farther  north,  is  on  a 
"cale  equally  chaste  and  spacious,  in  front  of  which  is  a 
handsome  square  and  a  beautiful  marble  fountain  oijei 
d^eau,  which  diffuses  a  delijrhtful  coolness  through  the 
atmosphere,  and  attracts  the  observation  of  every  stran. 
ger. 

The  Washington  Hall,  National  Hotel  and  Amer- 
ICAN  Hotel  are  also  very  neat  establishments,  and  well 
patronized. 

The  city  is  abundantly  supplied  with  excellent  water 
from  the  neighboring  hills,  on  the  Philadelphia  plan,  ex- 
cept, that  in  that  city  it  is  raised  by  artificial  means,  and 
in  this  by  its  natural  head,  being  75  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  city.  On  the  corner  of  each  street  is  a  hydrant, 
anr"  a  hose  placed  on  this  sends  the  water  up  higher  and 
with  much  greater  force  than  a  fire  engine.  From  this 
source  is  obtained  the  supply  for  several  artificial  foun- 
tains on  the  public  squares  and  in  private  gardens. 

Troy  is  proverbial  for  its  entrrprise.  This,  with  its  local 
advantages,  have  given  it  a  growth  and  prosperity  equal- 
led by  few  and  excelled  by  none  of  the  cities  at  the  north. 
Its  population  in  1830  was  11,605  ;  in  1835,  16,959  ;  and 
at  the  present  period  (1840)  cannot  be  less  than  20,000. 


KENSSF:I-AER  and  rtAIlATO(JA  HAIL  ROAD. 


120 


iven  it  a 
state. 

rail  road 
ishmeut, 
ityle  cor- 
ishments 

,  is  on  a 
hich  is  a 
tain  or  jet 
rougVi  the 
ery  stran. 

ind  Amer- 
j,  and  well 

lent  water 
a  plan,  ex- 
aeans,  and 
e  the  level 
hydrant, 
higher  and 

From  this 
[ficial  foiin- 
pns. 

Jith  its  local 
Icrity  equal- 
the  north. 
|6,959 ;  and 

m  20,000. 


I 


North-east  of  tlic  plain  upon  which  Troy  is  built,  and 
about  a  (piart(^r  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  Mount  Ida  rises 
ahruj)tly  to  the  height  of  three  or  fourhiuulred  feet ;  from 
whose  summit  tiierc  is  a  very  extensive  prospect  of  the 
Hudson  river  and  the  adjacent  country,  embracing  Wa- 
terford,  Linsingburgh,  the  locks  at  the  junction  of  the 
Erie  and  Champiain  canals,  nearly  the  whole  of  Troy, 
and  a  part  of  Albany. 

About  a  iiilc  above  the  city,  a  dam  has  been  thrown 
across  the  river,  and  a  lock  constructed,  affording  a  sloop 
navigation  to  the  village  of  Watcrford. 

The  T'^NssELAER  AM>  SARATOGA  Rail  Road  Com- 
mences in  River  street  near  the  Troy  House,  and  passes 
up  that  street  to  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  where  it 
crosses  the  main  channel  of  the  Hudson  river  on  a  superb 
covered  bridge,  1512  feet  long,  to  Green  Island.  From 
thence  it  proceeds  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Van 
8chaick's  Island,  which  is  connected  with  Green  Island 
by  a  bridge  482  feet  long  over  one  of  the  sprouts  of  the 
Mohawk  river.  Another  bridge  over  another  sprout  is 
then  passed  in  reaching  Hawver  Island ;  and  from  thence 
to  the  village  of  Waterford  a  third  bridge  is  crossed  in 
passing  over  the  third  or  minor  sprout.  At  Waterford 
the  road  passes  through  one  of  the  principal  streets,  and 
from  thence  continues  a  northerly  course  t?  rough  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Hudson,  between  the  river  and  the  Cham- 
plain  canal,  for  a  distance  of  8  miles,  to  Mechanicsviilc ; 
when,  after  crossing  the  canal,  it  curves  to  the  north- 
west, and  pursuing  the  valley  of  "  the  creek,"  so  called, 
passes  the  Round  lake,  about  4  mi^s  from  Mechanics- 
viilc.    The  Mourning  creek  is  reached  in  going  G  miles 


ir  ;;!■  -^ 


130 


LANBINOBUHGH — WATERFOHD. 


farther ;  from  whence  the  road  runs  nearly  parallel  with 
and  in  sight  of  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road 
for  a  distance  of  two  miles,  to  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa  ; 
where  the  two  roads  unite,  and  the  carriages  of  both 
roads,  by  an  arrangement  between  the  two  companies, 
are  taken  in  the  same  train  to  Saratoga  Springs. 

BVom  Ctrecn  Island,  a  bridge  extends  across  the  west 
channel  of  the  Hudson  to  West  Troy. 

Van  Schaick's  Island  is  formed  by  the  sprouts  of  the 
Mohawk  river  joining  with  the  Hudson  river,  3  miles 
north  of  Troy.  This  spot  is  noted  for  being  the  head 
quarters  of  the  American  army  in  1777  ;  from  whence 
they  marched,  in  September  of  the  same  year,  to  the  de- 
cisive victory  over  Burgoync,  at  Bemus'  Heights. 

LANSiNOBURnn,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Hudson,  di- 
rectly  opposite  Van  Schaick's  Island,  is  principally  built 
on  a  single  street,  running  parallel  with  the  river.  A 
high  hill  rises  abruptly  behind  the  village,  on  which  is  seen 
the  celebrated  diamond  rock,  which  at  times  emits  a 
brilliant  lustre  from  the  reflected  rays  of  the  sun.  The 
appearance  of  Lansingburgh  by  no  means  indicates  a 
high  state  of  prosperity,  though  it  contains  several  very 
handsome  private  residences.  The  village  has  a  bank, 
six  places  of  public  worship,  and  an  academy.  Its  popu- 
lation is  about  3000. 

Waterford  is  one  mile  farther.  The  village  is  situa- 
ted at  the  junction  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson,  and 
derives  considerable  importance  from  the  navigation  of 
small  vessels,  which,  by  means  of  the  lock  and  dam  below, 
at  most  seasons  of  the  year  arrive  and  depart  to  and  from 


Conors  falls — tiik  junction. 


131 


?\  with 
il  road 
n  Spa ; 
if  both 
ipanics, 

lie  west 

i  of  the. 
3  miles 
he  head 
whence 
)  the  de- 

dson,  di- 
lUy  built 
•iver.  A 
;h  is  seen 

emits  a 
m.  The 
licates  a 
cral  very 

a  bank. 

ts  popu- 

is  situa- 
dson,  and 
gation  of 
^m.  below, 

and  from 


its  docks.  Thu  villaije  contains  a  |)ojnilation  of  about 
1600  inliabitantfl.  It  enjoys  many  advantages  for  trade, 
and  its  importance  is  niucli  increased  by  the  Champluin 
canal,  which  here  cotnuiunicates  with  the  Hudson  river. 

A  very  piTuianeut  bridfje  crosses  the  Hudson  at  this 
place,  connecting  with  a  road  leading  to  Lansingburgh. 

At  Watcirford,  if  leisure  will  permit,  the  tourist  will  find 
it  interesting  to  stop  a  day,  for  the  ))urp<)se  of  visiting  the 
CoHOKs  Falls,  and  the  adjoining  factories  on  the  Mo- 
liawk  river,  about  a  mile  from  the  village.  I'hc  perpen- 
dicular fall  is  about  40,  and  including  the  descent  above, 
about  70  feet.  Tiie  lofty  barrier  of  rocks  which  confine 
the  course  of  the  IMohav/k — the  distant  roar  of  the  cata- 
ract— the  dashing  of  the  waters  as  they  descend  in  rapids 
beneath  you — and  the  striking  contrast  of  the  torrent 
with  the  solitude  of  the  scenery  above,  contribute  to 
render  the  whole  an  unusual  scene  '^f  sublimity  and 
grandeur.  It  was  in  taking  a  view  of  these  falls,  sev. 
eral  years  since,  that  the  poet  Moore  compo.-cd  one  of 
his  best  fugitive  pieces.  Indeed,  the  scenery  and  every 
thing  connected  with  this  interesting  spot,  are  calculated 
to  afford  ample  subjects  for  the  poet  and  painter. 

Between  tJiis  place  and  Schenectady  the  canal  is  car- 
ried twice  across  the  Mohawk.  The  lower  aqueduct,  as 
it  is  called,  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  falls,  is  1188 
feet — the  other,  112  miles  further,  is  750  feet  long. 

The  JuNC  rioN  of  the  Erie  and  Champlain  canals,  about 
a  mile  from  the  falls,  should  also  be  visited  in  the  ex- 
cursion.  Here,  within  the  space  of  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  arc   17  locks  ;  and  the  number  of  boats  constantly 

l2 


•  *  . 


V.V*    Il 


*HI.' 


132 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


\n. 


ii'.  r 
^1 


ill 


!;- 


passing  through,  present  a  spectacle  of  activity  and  bu- 
einess  of  a  highly  novel  character. 

Mechanicsville,  8  miles  from  Waterford,  (pursuing 
the  route  of  the  rail  road,)  is  a  small  manufacturing  vil- 
lage  on  the  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The  hydraulic  power, 
however,  here  derived,  is  from  "  the  creek,"  the  outlet 
of  the  Round  lake,  mentioned  at  page  129. 

Ballston  Spa,  12  miles  farther,  has  been  already  no- 
ticed  at  p.  122. 

SARATOGA   SPRINGS 

Is  situated  seven  miles  northeasterly  from  Ballston 
Spa.  The  village  is  located  on  an  (;levated  spot  of  ground, 
surrounded  by  a  productive  level  country,  and  enjoys,  if  not 
the  advantage  of  prospect,  at  least  a  salubrious  air  and 
climate,  contributing  much  to  the  health  and  benefit  of 
its  numerous  visitants.  It  contains  about  200  dwellings, 
and  a  population  of  2000  inhabitants.  The  springs,  so 
justly  celebrated  for  their  medicinal  virtues,  are  situated 
on  the  margin  of  a  vale,  bordering  the  village  on  the  east, 
and  are  the  continuation  of  a  chain  of  springs  discovering 
themselves  about  12  miles  to  the  south,  in  the  town  of 
Ballston,  and  extending  easterly  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
to  the  Quaker  village,  7  or  8  miles  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion from  Saratoga  Springs.  The  springs  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  the  latter  place  are  10  or  12  in  number, 
the  principal  of  which  are  the  Congress,  the  Iodine  or 
Walton,  Putnam's  Congress,  the  Monroe,  the  Hamilton, 
the  Flat  Rock,  the  High  Rock,  the  Columbian  and  the 
Washington.  A  new  spring,  affording  a  very  copious 
supply  and  apparently  very  saline,  was  discovered  in  the 


/ 


ds^' 


if: 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


133 


y  and  bu- 

(pursuing 
sturing  vi)- 
ilic  power, 

the  outlet 

already  no- 


n  Ballston 
t  of  ground, 
njoys,  if  not 
ous  air  and 
d  benefit  of 
3  dwellings, 

springs,  so 

ire  situated 

on  the  east, 

discovering 

the  town  of 

a  crescent, 
sterly  direc- 
;he  immedi- 

in  number, 
16  Iodine  or 
3  Hamilton, 
ian  and  the 

ery  copious 

^ered  in  the 


/ 


fall  of  1839,  a  short  distance  south  of  the  Flat  Rock ; 
but  no  analysis  had  been  made  at  the  time  of  the  publi- 
cation of  this  volume,  to  enable  us  to  speak  particularly 
of  its  properties. 

About  a  mile  northeast  of  the  village,  there  are  also  a 
cluster  of  fountains,  called  the  Ten  Springs. 

The  Coxgrkss  Sprlvg  is  situated  at  the  south  end  of 
the  village,  and  is  owned  by  Doct.  John  Clarke  ;  to 
whose  liberality  the  public  are  much  indebted  for  the  im- 
provements tliat  have  been  made  in  the  grounds  adjoin- 
ing the  fountain,  for  the  purity  in  which  its  waters  are 
preserved,  and  for  an  elegant  colonnade  erected  over  the 
spring,  affording  a  convenient  promenade  to  visitants. 

The  spring  was  first  discovered  in  the  summer  of  1792, 
issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  few  feet  from  its 
present  location.  Here  it  flowed  for  a  number  of  years, 
until  an  attempt  to  improve  the  surface  around  it  pro- 
duced an  accidental  obstruction  of  its  waters,  which  af- 
terwards made  their  appearance  at  the  place  where  they 
now  flow.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  tube  sunk  into  the  earth 
to  the  distance  of  12  or  14  feet,  wiiich  secures  it  from  the 
water  of  a  stream,  adjoining  which  it  is  situated. 

From  an  analysis  made  by  Doct.  Steel,  it  appears  that 
a  gallon  of  the  water  contains  the  following  substances  : 
chloride  of  sodium,  385  grs. ;  hydriodate  of  soda,  3  1  -2 
grs. ;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  nearly  9  grs. ;  bicarbonate  of 
magnesia,  nearly  96  grs.  ;  carbonate  of  lime,  a  little  more 
than  98  grs. ;  carbonate  of  iron,  upwards  of  5  grs. ;  silex 
1  1-2  grs.;  carbonic  acid  gas,  311  cubic  inches;  atmos- 
pheric air,  7  do. 


I.  Ir' 


■hm 


r  ■' . 


134 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


To  this  spring  perhaps  more  than  any  other  spot  on  the 
globe,  are  seen  repairing,  in  the  summer  mornings  before 
breakfast,  persons  of  ahnost  every  grade  and  condition, 
from  the  most  exalted  to  the  most  abject :  the  beautiful 
and  the  deformed — the  rich  and  the  poor — the  devotee  of 
pleasure  and  the  invalid — all  congregate  here,  for  pur- 
poses as  various  as  are  their  situations  in  life.  To  one 
fond  of  witnessing  the  great  diversity  in  the  human  char- 
acter,  this  pLco  affords  an  ample  field  for  observation. 
So  well,  indeed,  has  it  been  improved  by  the  little  urchins 
who  dip  water  at  the  fountain,  that  an  imposing  exterior 
is  sure  to  procure  for  its  possessor  their  services,  while  in- 
dividuals less  riclily  attired,  or  whose  physiognomy  indi- 
cate a  less  liberal  disposition,  are  often  compelled  to  wait 
till  it  is  more  convenient  to  attend  to  their  wants. 

Most  persons  soon  become  fond  of  the  water  ;  but  the 
effect  on  those  who  taste  it  for  the  first  time  is  fre- 
quently unpleasant.  To  such  the  other  fountains  are 
generally  more  palatable,  having  a  less  saline  taste  than 
the  Congress. 

The  loDLM']  or  Walton  Spring,  is  located  a  few  rods 
north  of  the  High  Rock,  and  was  discovered  in  the  au- 
tumn of  1838.  It  flows  copiously  through  a  tube  sunk  to 
a  depth  of  6  or  8  feet — is  very  pure  and  pungent — and 
while  it  contains  most  of  the  properties  of  the  other  foun- 
tains, in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  is  remarkable  for  its  free- 
dom from  iron.  According  to  an  analysis  made  by  Pro- 
fessor Emmons,  one  gallon  of  this  water  contains,  muriate 
of  soda,  137  grs. ;  carbonate  of  lime,  26  grs.  ;  carbonate 
of  iron,  1  gr. ;  carbonate  of  magnesia,  75  grs. ;  carbonate 
of  soda,  2  grs. ;  hydriodate  of  soda,  or  iodine,  3  1-2  grs. ; 


U 


'I-*;; 


•> 


1^ 


pot  on  the 
igs  before 
condition, 
3  beautiful 
devotee  of 
3,  for  pur- 
To  one 
man  char- 
3servation. 
tie  urchins 
ig  exterior 
3,  while  in- 
nomy  indi- 
led  to  wait 
its. 

ir ;  but  the 

ime  is  fre- 

ntains  are 

taste  than 

I  few  rods 
in  the  au- 
ibe  sunk  to 
gent — and 
ther  foun- 
br  its  free- 
de  by  Pro- 
IS,  muriate 
carbonate 
carbonate 
3  1-2  grs.; 


SARATOGA  SI'RINUS. 


135 


carbonic  acid  gas,  330  cubic  inches ;  atmospheric  air,  4 
inches. 

The  approach  to  this  fountain  has  been  rendered  easy ; 
and  it  is  already  beginning  to  be  a  place  of  yery  consid- 
erable resort.  It  bids  fair,  indeed,  to  become  as  efficacious 
and  celebrated  as  any  mineral  spring  yet  discovered. 

The  Monroe  Spring,  a  few  rods  north  of  the  Flat 
Rock,  is  remarkable  for  its  sparkling  and  pungent  qualities, 
and  is  justly  ranked  among  the  favored  fountains  of  the 
village. 

Near  it  is  a  strong  sulphur  spring,  (recently  discover- 
ed,) which  supplies  a  commodious  bathing  establishment 
on  the  premises. 

Putnam's  Congress  (deriving  its  name  from  the  dis- 
coverer  and  owner)  is  a  few  rods  north  of  the  Hamilton 
Spring.  A  mineral  fountain  flowed  from  the  same  local- 
ity for  several  years,  without  any  particular  notice,  and 
the  present  spring  has  been  obtained  by  sinking  a  tube 
to  a  considerable  depth.  It  is  a  valuable  and  popular 
fountai  n. 

The  High  Rock  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
valley,  skirting  the  east  side  of  the  village,  about  half  a 
mile  north  of  the  Co:^gress.  The  rock  enclosing  this 
spring  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  9  feet  in  diameter  at  its 
base,  and  five  feet  in  height.  It  seems  to  have  been 
formed  by  a  concretion  of  particles  thrown  up  by  the 
water,  which  formerly  flowed  over  its  summit  through 
an  aperture  of  about  12  inches  diameter,  regularly  di- 
verging from  the  top  of  the  cone  to  its  base.  This  spring 
was  visited  in  the  year  1767  by  Sir  William  .lohnson, 
but  was  known  long  before  by  the  Indians,  who  were 


mi 


flilr  '^'■ 


Sll     i.    I'lt'iii 


I 


136 


SAllATOGA  SPRINGS. 


first  led  to  it  either  by  accident  or  by  the  frequent  haunts 
of  beasts,  attracted  thither  by  the  saUne  properties  of  the 
water.  A  building  was  erected  near  the  spot  previous  to 
the  revolutionary  war ;  afterwards  abandoned,  and  again 
resumed ;  since  which  the  usefulness  of  the  water  has, 
from  time  to  time,  occasioned  frequent  settlements  with- 
in its  vicinity. 

The  water  now  rises  within  2  feet  of  the  summit,  and 
a  common  notion  prevails  that  it  has  found  a  passage 
through  a  fissure  of  the  rock  occasioned  by  the  fall  of  a 
tree ;  since  which  event  it  has  ceased  to  flow  over  its 
brink.  This  opinion,  however,  may  be  doubted.  It  is 
probable  that  the  decay  of  tjie  rock,  which  commenced 
its  formation  on  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth,  may 
have  yielded  to  the  constant  motion  of  the  water,  and  at 
length  opened  a  passage  between  its  decayed  baje  and 
the  loose  earth  on  wliich  it  was  formed.  This  idea  is 
strengthened  from  the  external  appearance  of  the  rock 
at  its  eastern  base,  which  hy.s  already  been  penetrated  by 
the  implements  of  curiosity  a  number  of  inches. 

Between  the  Iodine  Sprinsr  in  the  upper  village,  and 
the  Washington  in  the  south  part  of  the  lower  village, 
are  situated  most  of  the  other  mineral  springs  in  which 
this  place  abounds.  At  four  of  the  principal  fountains^ 
the  Putnam's  Congress,  Hamilton,  Monroe  and  Washing, 
ton,  large  and  convenient  bathing  houses  have  been  erect- 
ed, which  are  constantly  resorted  to  for  pleasure  as  well  as 
health,  during  the  warm  season. 

The  mineral  waters  both  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga  are 
supposed  to  be  the  product  of  the  same  great  labrato- 
ry,  and  they  all  possess  nearly  the  same  properties,  va- 


ab]< 


■«. 


^ 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


137 


launts 
of  the 
lOUS  to 
I  again 
er  has, 
s  with- 

lit,  and 
jassage 
ill  of  a 
aver  its 
.     It  is 
menced 
Lh,  may 
,  and  at 
a.-e  and 
5  idea  is 
he  rock 
rated  by 

age,  and 
village, 
n  which 
)untains, 
Vashing- 
en  erect- 
is  well  as 

itoga  are 
labrato- 

rties,  va- 


rying only  as  to  the  quantity  of  tho  different  articles  held 
in  solution.  They  arc  dcnominrttcd  acidulous  saline  and 
acidulous  chalybeate.  Of  the  former  are  the  Congress, 
Iodine,  Monroe,  Putnam's  Congress,  the  Hamilton,  and 
Higji  Rock,  at  Saratoga  ;  and  of  the  latter  are  the  Co- 
lumbian, Flat  Rock,  and  Washington,  at  Saratoga,  and 
the  Old  Spring,  and  Sans  Souci,  at  Ballston.  The  waters 
contain  muriate  of  soda,  hydriodatc  of  soda,  carbonate  of 
soda,  carbonate  of  lime,  carb  /.>  ite  cf  magnesia,  oxide  of 
iron,  and  some  of  them  a  minute  quantity  of  silicia  and 
alumina.  Large  quantities  of  carbonic  acid  gas  are  also 
contained  in  the  waters,  giving  to  them  a  sparkling  and 
lively  appearance. 

The  late  Doct.  Steel,  in  his  geological  report  of  the 
county  of  Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since,  remarks, 
that  "  the  temperature  of  the  water  in  all  these  wells  is 
about  the  same,  ranging  from  48  to  52  degrees  on  Faren- 
heiVs  scale ;  and  they  sulfer  no  sensible  alteration  from 
any  variation  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  ;  nei- 
ther do  the  variations  of  the  seasons  appear  to  have  much 
effect  on  the  quantity  of  water  produced. 

'*  The  waters  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when  first 
dijjped  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  good  champaign.  The 
saline  waters  bear  bottling  very  well,  particularly  the 
Congress,*  immense  quantities  of  which  are  put  up  in  this 
way,  and  transported  to  various  parts  of  the  world ;  not, 
however,  without  a  considerable  loss  of  its  gaseous  prop- 
erty, which  renders  its  taste  much  more  insipid  than 
when  drank  at  the  well.     Tlic  cliai3'bcate  water  is  also 

*  The  water  of  the  Iodine  Spring  is  also  equally  favor- 
able for  bottling. 


"  n 


■-^j 


i!    •"( 


li 


138 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


put  up  in  bottles  for  transportation,  but  a  very  trifling  loss 
of  its  gas  produces  an  immediate  precipitation  of  its  iron ; 
and  hence  this  water,  when  it  has  been  bottled  for  some 
time,  frequently  becomes  turbid,  and  finally  loses  every 
trace  of  iroii ;  this  subptance  fixing  itself  to  the  walls  of 
the  bottle. 

"  The  most  prominent  and  perceptible  effects  of  these 
waters,  when  taken  into  the  stomach,  are  cathartic,  diu. 
retic  and  tonic.  They  are  much  used  in  a  great  variety 
of  complaints ;  but  the  diseases  in  which  they  are  most 
efficacious  are  jaundice  and  bilious  affections  generally, 
dyspepsia,  habitual  costiveness,  hypochondrical  com- 
plaints,  depraved  appetite,  calculous  and  enphritic  com- 
plaints, phagedenic  or  ill-conditioned  ulcers,  cutaneous 
eruptions,  chronic  rheumatism,  some  species  or  states  of 
gout,  some  species  of  dropsy,  scrofula,  paralysis,  scorbutic 
affections  and  old  scorbutic  ulcers,  amenorrhea,  dysme- 
norrhea and  clorosis.  In  phthisis,  and  indeed  all  other 
pulmonary  affectionn  arising  from  primary  diseases  of  the 
lungs,  the  ^waters  are  manifestly  injurious,  and  evidently 
tend  to  increase  the  violence  of  the  disease. 

"  Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  the  subject  of  the 
source  of  these  singular  waters ;  but  no  researches  have 
as  yet  unfolded  the  myste^v-  The  large  proportion  of 
common  salt  found  among  their  constituent  properties 
may  be  accounted  for  without  much  difficulty — all  the 
salt  springs  of  Europe,  as  well  as  those  of  America,  being 
found  in  geological  situations  exactly  corresponding  to 
these  ;  but  the  production  of  the  unexampled  quantity  of 
carbonic  acid  gas,  the  medium  through  which  the  other 
articles  are  held  in  solution,  is  yet,  and  probably  will  re- 


fling  loss 
its  iron ; 
for  some 
es  every 
walls  of 

I  of  these 
rtic^  diu- 
it  variety 
are  most 
generally, 
jal    com- 
ritic  com- 
jutaneous 
states  of 
scorbutic 
I,,  dysme- 
all  (>ther 
ses  of  the 
evidently 

ct  of  the 
les  have 
jortion  of 
jroperties 
—all  the 
ca,  being 
nding  to 
lantity  of 
he  other 
will  re- 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


135" 


main  a  subject  of  mere  speculation.  The  low  and  regu- 
lar temperature  of  the  water  seems  to  forbid  the  idea  that 
it  is  the  effect  of  subterranean  heat,  as  many  have  sup- 
posed, and  the  total  absence  of  any  mineral  acid,  except- 
ing the  muriatic,  which  is  combined  with  soda,  doe?  away 
the  possibility  of  its  being  the  etlcct  of  any  combination 
of  that  kind.  Its  production  is  tliercforc  truly  unaccount- 
able."* 

In  addition  to  the  springs  already  enumerated,  a  sul- 
phur SPRING  was  discovered  a  few  years  since  in  the  vi- 

*  An  analysis  of  the  waters  at  this  place  and  at  Ballston 
Spa  was  made  and  published  by  Doct.  Steel  some  years 
since,  which  received  the  sanction  of  t)ie  most  scientific 
men  in  this  country  and  in  Elurope.  Subsequently,  and 
shortly  bcfoic  Jiis  death  in  1838,  he  prepared  an  entire 
new  work,  which  has  since  been  published,  embracing 
not  only  an  analysis  of  the  springs  and  directions  for 
their  use  in  the  various  diseases  in  which  they  have  proved 
beneficial,  but  also  a  full  and  interesting  history  of  their 
discovery,  and  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  t!ic  villages  in 
which  they  are  located.  The  literary  attainments  of 
Doct.  S.  and  his  great  ex])erience  from  a  long  residence 
at  this  place,  enabled  liim  to  render  this  work  far  su- 
perior to  any  Jiing  of  the  kind  which  has  appeared,  or 
wh!(?h  w'll  probably  soon  ap;»ear.  It  ought  also  to  be 
remarked,  that  no  invalid  should  attempt  the  use  of  these 
waters  without  the  direction  of  a  physician  well  acquaint- 
ed with  their  properties.  A  contrary  course,  under  the 
too  prevalent  and  erroneous  impression  that  they  maybe 
drank  in  all  complaints,  in  any  quantity,  and  at  all  hours 
of  the  day,  has  been  attended  in  many  instances  with 
deleterious  and  somciimes  with  fatal  consequences. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  great  efficacy  in  most 
complaints,  when  properly  used ;  3'et  ill-timed  and  too 
copious  draughts  not  only  fail  of  removing  complaints, 
but  frequently  engender  them. 

M 


li 


■:**■ 
i  ' 


I' 


fi 


m4 


!l| 


>  I 


140 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


•cinity  of  the  Hamilton  Springs,  in  the  rear  of  the  Congress 
Hall.  It  rises  from  a  depth  of  about  20  feet,  and  affords 
an  ample  supply  of  water  for  the  bathing  house  with 
ivhirih  it  is  connected. 

The  boardinjT  establishments  of  the  first  class  at  Sara- 
toga  Springs  arc  the  Congress  Hall  and  Union  Hall  at 
the  south  end  of  the  village,  the  Pavilion  at  t'Jie  north, 
and  the  United  States  Hotel  in  a  central  situation  be- 
tween tiiem.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of  other 
boarding  houses  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  the  most  noted 
of  whicli  are  the  American  and  the  Adelphi  in  the  soutli 
part,  the  Columbian  Hotel  and  Washington  Hall  in  the 
north  part  of  the  village,  and  the  Kail  Uoad  House  cen- 
trally located.  Prospect  Hall,  kept  by  Mr.  Benjamin  R. 
Putnam,  is  on  a  beautiful  site  about  one  mile  north-west 
of  the  village,  and  is  a  very  respectable  establishment. 
Highland  Hall,  half  a  mile  south  of  the  Congress  Spring, 
is  also  a  pleasant  house,  and  well  patronized. 

The  Congress  Hall,  kept  by  Messrs,  Seaman  and 
Munger,  is  situated  within  a  few  rods  of  the  Congress 
Spring,  to  which  a  handsome  walk  shaded  with  trees  has 
been  constructed  for  the  convenience  of  guests.  The 
edifice  is  200  feet  in  length,  3  stories  high  besides  an  at- 
tic, and  has  two  wings  extending  back,  one  60,  and  the 
other  about  100  feet.  In  front  of  the  hall,  handsomely 
shaded  with  shrubbery  and  trees,  is  a  spacious  piazza, 
20  feet  in  width,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the 
building,  with  a  canopy  from  the  roof,  supported  by  17 
columns,  each  of  which  is  gracefully  entwined  with 
woodbine.  There  is  also  a  back  piazza,  which  opens 
upon  a  beautiful  garden  annexed  to  the  establishment, 


ki 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


i4/' 


3  Congress 
ind  affords 
lousc  with 

ss  at  Sara- 
on  Hall  at 
the  north, 
tuation  be- 
ler  of  other 
most  noted 
n  the  Boutli 
Hall  in  the 
House  cen- 
►enjamin  R. 
north-west 
ablishmcnt. 
recs  Sprhig, 

ieaman  and 
le  Confess 
th  trees  has 
Liests.    The 
sides  an  at- 
GO,  and  tlie 
handsomely 
ions  piazza, 
orth  of  the 
orted  by  17 
wined  with 
^hich  opens 
abhshment, 


1 


and  a  small  grove  of  pines,  affordinjr  both  fragrance  and 
shade  to  its  numerous  guests.  Tlie  Congress  Hall  can- 
accommodate  from  250  to  300  visitants,  and  is  justly 
ranked  among  the  most  elegant  establishments  in  the 
union. 

The  Unitfd  States  Hotel,  kept  by  Messrs.  Thomaa 
and  Marvin,  with  its  gardens  and  out  buildings,  occupies 
a  space  in  the  centre  of  the  village  of  about  five  acres. 
The  main  building  is  composed  of  brick,  186  feet  long,  3S 
feet  wide,  and  4  stories  high.  It  has  two  wings  extend- 
ing westwardjy — one  204  feet,  and  the  other  163  feet 
long.  Attached  to  the  establishment  are  also  two  cotta- 
ges, contiguous  to  one  of  the  wings.  A  broad  piazza 
stretches  across  the  main  building  in  front,  and  is  con- 
nected with  piazzas  in  the  rear,  so  as  to  form  a  continu- 
ous promenade  of  more  than  700  feet.  The  interior 
arrangements  are  on  a  proportionate  scale — the  dining 
room  being  200  feet  long,  and  with  the  drawing-rooms, 
public  and  private  parlours,  equalling  if  not  surpassing, 
in  ext^^nt  and  elegance,  any  similar  establishment.  The 
ground  in  the  rear  is  handsomely  laid  out  into  walks,  and 
the  whole  tastefully  ornamented  with  trees  and  shrubbery. 
The  front  is  also  shaded  by  a  double  row  of  forest  trees 
extending  the  whole  length  of  the  building.  'I  he  hotel 
is  situated  equi- distant  from  the  Congress  and  Flat  Rock 
springs,  commanding  a  view  of  the  whole  village ;  and 
from  its  fourth  story  a  distinct  prospect  is  had  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  for  a  number  of  miles.  This  establish- 
ment can  accommodate  400  visitants,  and  is  probably  the 
largest  and  one  of  the  most  expensive  of  the  kind  in  the^ 
United  States. 


<    r 


!*■•-: 


m\f. 


142 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


'W:M.. 


^1 


I  .ill"'.. 


The  Pavilion  is  located  in  a  pleasant  part  of  the  viUajore, 
immediately  in  front  of  the  Flat  Rock  sprintr.  The 
building  is  constructed  of  wood,  136  feet  long,  with  a 
wing  extending  back  from  the  centre  of  the  main  building 
80  feet,  and  cin other  extending  along  Church  street,  of 
200  feet,  affording  numerous  private  parlors,  communi- 
cating with  lodging  rooms,  for  the  convenience  of  families. 
The  main  building  is  two  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  the 
addition  of  an  attic  which,  with  the  handsome  piazza  in 
front,  sustained  by  delicate  colonnades,  renders  it,  in  beau- 
ty and  proportion,  one  of  the  first  models  of  architecture 
in  the  country.  Tlie  large  rooms  of  the  Pavilion  are  so 
constructed,  that  by  means  of  folding  doors  the  whole  of 
the  lower  apartments  may  be  thrown  into  one — an  advan- 
tage which  gives  much  additional  interest  lo  the  promen- 
ade and  cotillion  parties,  which  frequently  assemble  on 
this  extensive  area.  Handsome  walks,  shaded  with  trees, 
are  attached  to  the  establishment,  affording  its  guests 
ample  space  for  a  quiet  and  cool  retreat.  The  Pavilion 
is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  about  250  visi- 
tants. 

The  Union  Hall  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  re- 
spectable establishments  in  the  vicinity,  and  is  situated 
directly  opposite  the  Congress  Hall.  It  presents  a  hand- 
some front,  120  feet  long,  3  stories  high,  with  two  wings 
extending  west  60  feet,  and  also  an  adjoining  building, 
nearly  1 00  feet  long,  fitted  up  with  parlors,  &c.  for  private 
families.  The  Hall  is  ornamented  in  front  by  10  col- 
umns, which  rise  to  nearly  the  height  of  the  building,  and 
support  the  roof  of  a  spacious  piazza.  A  garden  in  the 
rear  also  contributes  to  the  pleasantness  of  the  establish- 


lii 


># 


rT' 


^fej, 


y.\IlATOOA  SPRINGS. 


143 


rillage, 
The 
with  a 
uilding 
rcot,  of 
[nmuni- 
amihes. 
nth  the 
iazza  in 
in  bcau- 
litecture 
n  are  so 
whole  of 
1  advan- 
promen- 
smble  on 
lith  trees, 
,8  guests 
Pavihon 
|250  visi- 

most  re- 
situated 
Is  a  hand- 
wo  wings 
building, 
)r  private 
10  col- 
|ding,  and 
m  in  the 
1  establish- 


I 


ment.  It  is  kept  by  Messrs.  K.  ♦&.  \V.  Putnam,  and 
ranks  in  point  of  elegance  and  rcspectabiUty  with  tho 
most  favored  public  houses  in  the  vicinity. 

The  America:;  Hotf.l,  a  few  doors  norih  of  the  Union 
Hall,  is  a  spacious  brick  building,  recently  erected  by  its 
proprietor,  Mr.  Wilcox,  and  is  fitted  up  and  kept  in  a 
style  to  ensure  it  a  liberal  patronaj.'^e. 

The  Adkli'HiHotfl,  adjoining  on  tiic  north,  i^also  a 
large  bui  iing  of  brick,  3  stories  high,  and  is  well  fur- 
nished and  well  kept  by  its  proprietor,  Mr.  Sadler. 

Tlie  CoujMRiAN  PIoTKL  stund?^  a  few  yards  south  of  the 
Pavilion.  Annexed  to  the  establishment  is  a  handsome 
garden,  lying  on  three  sides  of  the  building,  which  adds 
much  to  the  beauty  and  advantage  it  enjoys  in  point  of 
natural  location. 

The  Washington  Hall,  is  beautifully  located  at  the 
north  part  of  the  village,  and  is  j)utronized  by  strangers 
who  do  not  wish  to  mingle  in  the  pleasures  of  the  larger 
establishments. 

The  price  of  board  per  week  at  the  respective  houses 
is  from  4  to  12  dollars. 

The  Reading  Rooms  and  Library  are  in  a  neat  build- 
ing  three  doors  north  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel.  Nearly  1 00 
newspapers  from  various  parts  of  the  Union  and  the  Can- 
adaH,  and  about  2000  volumes  of  well  selected  books  for 
circulation,  embracing  the  modcrii  publications,  are  kept 
in  these  rooms.  A  register  of  tlic  names  of  visitants  at 
the  Springs  i^  also  open  for  inspection  at  the  establi.-ih- 
ment.  The  names  thus  entered  frequently  number  froni 
10  to  12,000  in  the  course  of  the  season. 


m2 


^%s: 


n 


I  ii.t,'  I 


li 


It  ' 


y 


(1 1- 


F   li! 
hi  "   ' 


ll!i*l  • 


144 


SARATOQA  LAKE. 


At  both  the  villages  of  Ballston  and  Saiatoga  Springs, 
there  are  always  sufficient  objects  of  amusement  to  ren- 
der the  transient  residence  of  their  summer  guests  pleas- 
ant and  agreeable.  Those  whose  taste  is  not  otherwise 
gratified  can  always  enjoy  a  mental  recreation  at  the 
reading  rooms ;  a  ride  on  the  rail  road,  carriages  for 
which  leave  both  villages  several  times  a  day  ;  or  a  short 
excursion  in  the  neighborhood,  where  sufficient  beauty 
and  novelty  of  scenery  are  always  presented  to  render  it 
interesting.  The  amusements  of  the  day  are  usually  crown- 
ed with  a  ball  or  promenade;.  The  respective  apartments 
appropriated  for  these  occasions  are  calculated  to  accom- 
modate from  250  to  300  guests ;  but  they  often  contain  a 
much  greater  number. 

The  spacious  areas  of  the  cotillion  rooms,  when  enli- 
vened by  the  associated  beauty  and  gayety  resorting  to 
the  Springs,  present  an  unusual  degree  of  novelty  and 
fascination. 

About  two  miles  east  from  Saratoga  Springs  there  is  a 
email  fish  pond,  situated  on  the  farm  of  a  Mr.  Barheydt. 
Parties  often  resort  thither,  as  well  to  enjoy  the  amuse- 
ments  of  fishing  as  to  partake  of  a  repast  on  trout,  the 
proprietor  reserving  to  himself  the  exclusive  privilege  of 
serving  them  up.  Still  farther  east,  about  4  miles  from 
the  Springs,  is  situated  the 

Saratoga  Lake.  This  lake  is  9  miles  long  and  3 
broad.  Sail  boats  are  fitted  up  at  the  Lake  House,  for 
the  accommodation  of  parties  of  pleasure,  and  implements 
for  fishing  are  always  in  readiness  for  those  who  take 
pleasure  in  this  fashionable  diversion.  The  western 
shores  of  the  lake  are  accessible  but  in  a  few  pla  368,  in 


BEMUS'  IIEIOHTS. 


145 


Springs, 
;  to  ren- 
H  pleas- 
hcrwiso 
at  the 
Lgcs    for 
r  a  short 
,  beauty 
cnder  it 
y  crown- 
irtmcnts 
3  accom- 
jontain  a 

hen  enli- 
orting  to 
elty  and 

here  is  a 
farheydt. 
3  amuse- 
rout,  the 
vilege  of 
lies  from 

and  3 

ouse,  for 

Dlements 

ho  take 

western 

a  368,  in 


/ 


I 


consequence  of  the  adja^rnt  marshes ;  on  the  cast  side 
the  land  is  more  elevated,  and  presents  a  fine  prospect  of 
farms  under  jrood  improvement.  The  Lake  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  Kayadcrosseras  creek,  which,  taking 
its  rise  about  20  miles  in  a  northwest  direction,  and  re- 
ceiving in  its  course  a  number  of  tributary  streams,  flows 
into  the  lake  on  the  west  side.  Fish  creek  forms  its  out- 
let, through  which  the  waters  of  the  lako  arc  communi- 
cated to  the  Hudson  river,  about  8  miles  distant  in  an 
easterly  direction.  This  creek  empties  into  the  Hudson 
river  at  Sehuylervillc,  noticed  at  p.  147. 

Bemws'  Heights,  rendered  memorable  as  the  s^ot  on 
which  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Burgoyne  was  defeat, 
ed  in  the  revolutionary  contest,  are  about  8  miles  in  a 
south-easterly  direction  from  the  Lake  House.  The 
battle  ground  is  2  miles  west  of  tin  Hudson  river ;  and 
though  without  much  to  attract  in  its  location  or  sur- 
rounding scenery,  will  nevertheless  prove  interesting  from 
its  association  with  events  which  «::rcatly  contributed  to 
the  establishment  of  American  independence. 

The  two  actions  which  preceded  the  surrender  of  the 
British  army  were  fought  on  the  19th  of  September,  1777, 
and  on  the  1 7th  of  October  following.  On  the  morning 
of  the  8th,  the  American  army  marched  into  the  British 
camp,  which  had  been  deserted  the  evening  previous. 
The  enemy  continued  to  retreat  till  they  had  reached  the 
height  beyond  the  Fish  creek,  where  they  encamped  on 
the  1 0th .  Finding  his  retreat  cut  off  by  a  party  of  troops, 
who  had  taken  possession  in  his  rear,  and  his  advance 
impeded  by  superior  numbers,  General  Burgoyne  accepted 
the  terms  of  capitulation,  proposed  by  General  Gates,  and 


■«t 


■t* 


14G 


BEMUS'  HEIGHTS. 


suiTendered  Jiis  whole  army  to  the  American  forces  on 
the  17th  October,  1777.  The  surrender  took  place  at 
Fort  Hardy,  where  the  British  stacked  their  arms,  and 
were  permitted  to  march  out  with  the  honors  of  war. 

Freeman's  Farm,  on  which  the  principal  actions  were 
fought,  is  immediately  east  of  the  main  road  running 
north  and  south,  a  road  passing  directly  across  it  to  the 
Hudson  river,  in  an  eastwardly  direction.  In  a  meadow 
adjoining  the  first  mentioned  road,  about  ten  rods  south 
of  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  near  the  fence,  is  the  spot 
where  Gen.  Frazer  fell.*  A  large  bass  wood  tree  marked 
the  place  for  a  time  ;  but  having  been  cut  down,  several 
sprouts  which  have  sprung  up  from  the  parent  stock, 
now  designate  the  spct.  A  few  rods  directly  south  of 
this,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  shown  the  place  where  Col, 
Cilley  sat  astride  of  a  brass  twelve  pounder,  exulting 
in  its  capture ;  and  about  half  a  mile  still  farther  south 
is  shown  the  house  yet  standing,  which  was  used  by  Gen. 
Gates  as  his  head  quarters. 

In  proceeding  to  the  river,  the  hill  on  which  Gen.  Fra- 
zer  is  buried  is  pointed  out,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  east 
of  the  battle  ground,  and  20  rods  north  of  the  road.  His 
remains  were  deposited,  at  his  request,  within  a  redoubt 
on  the  top  of  this  hill.  The  redoubt,  which  is  of  an  ob- 
long form,  from  100  to  150  feet  in  diameter,  is  still  per- 
fectly visible  ;  and  the  spot  of  G:'n.  Frazer's  interment  is 
near  the  centre,  though  no  monument  of  any  description 


*  Gen.  Frazer  was  second  in  command  to  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne,  and  died  on  the  8th  October,  1777,  from  wounds 
received  in  battle  the  day  previous. 


aVUVYLEH-VlLLtl. 


u% 


ces  on 
aco  at 
s,  and 
ar. 

3  were 
unning 
to  llic 
icadow 
}  south 
he  spot 
marked 
several 
stock, 
outh  of 
:re  Col, 
exulting 
ir  south 
)y  Gen . 

n.  Fra- 

alf  east 

His 

edoubt 

an  ob- 

ill  per- 

mcnt  is 

ription 

n.  Bur- 
.vounds 


haa  ever  been  erected  to  mark  the  place  where  the  remains 
of  this  gallant  warrior  repose.  i"^' 

i  Smith's  House,  in  which  Gen.  Frazer  died,  and  which 

at  that  time  stood  near  the  foot  of  this  hill,  has  been  ro- 
moved  about  80  rods  in  a  northeasterly  direction  to  the 
turnpike.  It  is  a  low  old  fashioned  Dutch  buildins^,  with 
the  gable  end  to  the  river,  painted  yellow — the  sides  red; 
and  shingle  roof.  The  entrance  is  towards  the  river,  un- 
der a  dilapidated  portico — the  whole  ben  ring  the  marks  of 
antiquity.  The  room  in  which  Gen.  Frazer  died  is  di- 
rectly in  front,  and  has  undergone  no  material  change 
since  his  death. 

Eight  miles  north  of  this,  on  the  turnpike,  is  the  vil- 
lage of 

ScHUYLER-ViLLE,  notcd  as  the  residence  of  the  late 
Gen.  Schuyler,  and  still  more  so  as  the  place  where  Gen. 
Burgoyne  surrendered  to  the  American  army  in  October,, 
1777. 

The  ground  on  which  the  surrender  took  place,  was  in 
a  vale  nearly  east,  and  in  plain  view  of  the  stage  house  on 
the  turnpike  in  the  village,  and  still  exhibits  the  re- 
mains  of  an  entrenchment  called  Fort  Hardy.  About 
40  rods  in  a  southeast  direction,  at  the  mouth  of  Fish 
creek,  is  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler.  The  arms  of  the 
British  were  stacked  in  the  vale  in  front  of  Fort  Hardy, 
and  from  thence  they  were  marched  to  the  high  grounds 
a  little  west  of  the  village,  and  admitted  to  parol  as  pris- 
oners of  war.  At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  vale  is 
a  basin  for  the  Champlain  canal,  which  passes  through  this 
place.     About  half  a  mile  tsouth  of  the  basin  stands  a 


4^^^ 


W' 


1 


m 


Jnmi', 
B."  '.'it ', 


ii" 


•  13 


111",'' 


4*!!:'!     ! 


U8 


FORT    EDWARD. 


house  located  on  the  spot  where  once  stood  the  mansion 
of  Gen.  Schuyler,  which,  with  other  buildings,  were  burnt 
ty  the  British  army  on  their  retreat  from  the  battle  of  the 
7th  October. 

The  village  contains  80  or  90  houses,  and  an  extensive 
cotton  factory  and  machine  shop. 

Fort-Edward  is  12  miles  north  of  Schuyler-Ville.  It 
is  not  on  the  usual  route  of  travellers  from  the  Springs  to 
Lake  George  ;  but  being  a  short  clista,ncc  only  from  Sandy 
Kill,  it  may  be  easily  visited.  The  fort,  once  situated 
where  the  village  now  stands,  has  long  since  been  demol- 
ished ;  though  its  former  location  is  easily  traced  in  the 
mounds  of  earth  which  are  still  visible.  About  100  rods 
north  of  the  village  is  a  dam  across  the  Hudson  river,  27 
feet  high  and  900  feet  long,  supplying  with  water  a  feeder 
to  the  Champlain  canal. 

A  little  north  of  this,  on  the  west  side  of  the  road,  the 
traveller  is  shown  a  large  pine  tree,  with  a  spring  near  its 
foot,  memorable  as  the  spot  where  Miss  M'Crea  was 
murdered  by  the  Indians  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
She  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones,  an  American  refugee, 
who  was  in  Burgoyne's  army.  Anxious  for  a  union  with 
his  intended  bride,  he  despatched  a  party  of  Indians  to 
escort  her  to  the  British  camp.  Against  the  remon- 
strance of  her  friends,  she  committed  herself  to  the  charge 
of  these  Indians.  She  was  placed  on  horseback,  and  ac- 
companied her  guides  to  the  spring  in  question,  where 
they  were  met  by  another  party,  sent  on  the  same  er- 
rand. An  altercation  ensued  between  them  as  to  the 
promised  reward,  and  while  thus  ngaged,  they  were  at- 
tacked by  the  whites.    At  the  close  of  the  conflict,  the 


SANDY  HILL— <iLEN'S  FALLS. 


I4d 


unhappy  young  woman  was  found  a  short  distance  from 
the  sprinjT,  tomahawked  and  scalped.  Tlierc  is  a  tradition 
tliat  her  scalp  was  divided  by  the  respective  parties,  and 
carried  to  her  agonized  lover.  He  is  said  to  have  sur- 
vived the  shock  but  a  short  time,  and  to  have  died  of  a 
broken  heart.  The  name  of  Miss  M'Crea  is  inscribed  oa 
a  tree,  with  the  date  1777.  Her  remains  were  disinterred 
a  few  years  since,  and  deposited  in  the  church-yard  at 
Sandy-Hill. 

Sandy  Hill  is  two  miles  from  Fort  Edward,  on  the 
route  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George.  It  is  situ- 
atrd  on  very  elevated  ground,  on  the  margin  of  the  Hud- 
son river,  immediately  above  Baker's  Falls,  about  19 
miles  from  the  Springs.  The  streets  arc  laid  out  in  the 
form  of  a  triangle.  In  the  centre  is  an  open  area,  sur- 
rounded by  handsomely  constructed  stores  and  dwellings. 
The  villajre  contains  about  100  houses  and  600  inhabi- 
tants.  The  courts  of  the  county  are  held  alternately 
here  and  at  Salem. 

Glen's  Falls,  a  village  more  populous,  is  3  miles  fur- 
ther up  the  Hudson  river,  on  the  direct  loute  to  Lake 
George.  At  this  place  arc  the  celebrated  falls  from 
whicli  the  village  takes  its  name.  These  are  situated 
about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  near  a 
bridge,  extending  partly  over  the  falls,  and  from  which 
the  best  view  of  them  may  be  had.  The  falls  are  formed 
by  the  waters  of  the  Hudson,  which  flow  in  one  sheet 
over  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  but  are  immediately  di- 
vidcd  by  the  rocks  into  three  channels.  The  height  of 
the  falls  is  ascertained,  by  measurement,  to  be  63  feet ; 


f'.i;! 


150 


glen's  palls— jessup's  falls. 


1 1.,. ' 


though  the  water  flows  in  an  angular  descent  of  4  or  500 
feet.  Some  rods  below  the  falls  is  a  long  cave  in  the 
rocks,  extending  from  one  channel  to  the  other.  On  its 
walls  are  inscribed  a  variety  of  names  of  former  guests, 
who  have  thought  proper  to  pay  this  customary  tribatc. 
The  rocks,  which  are  at  some  seasons  covered  with  wa- 
ter, but  at  others  entirely  dry,  arc  chequered  with  small 
indentations,  and  in  many  places  considerable  chasms 
are  formed,  probably  by  pebbles  i^ept  in  motion  by  the 
falling  water.  It  is  very  evident  that  these  falls,  like 
those  of  Niagara,  were  once  a  considerable  distance  low- 
er down  the  river — the  banks  below  being  composed  of 
shelving  rocks,  from  30  to  70  feet  perpendicular  height. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  river  is  a  navigable  feeder,  com- 
manicsting  with  the  Champlain  canal.  It  commences 
n'3arly  two  miles  above  the  falls,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  which  appears  to  ha\  e  been 
cut  out  of  a  shelving  rock,  runs  along  a  ravine  east  of 
Sandy  Hill,  and  intersects  the  main  canal  some  distance 
below** 


Im 


*Jessup's  Falls,  which  arc  about  10  miles  above 
Glen's  Falls  on  the  Hudson,  are  worthy  the  attention  of 
travellers.  The  whole  scenery  is  highly  romantic  and 
pictures(iuc,  and  the  descent  of  the  falls,  including  the 
rapids  a  short  distant  above,  is  nearly  100  feet.  Five 
miles  further  north  are  the  Hadley  Falls,  which  are  a 
succession  of  pitches  over  a  rocky  and  uneven  bed.  The 
whole  descent,  commencing  at  the  upper  fall,  is  between 
80  and  100  feet.  Over  the  lower  fall  a  permanent  bridge, 
about  50  feet  from  the  water,  is  erected.  The  river  hero 
is  contracted  to  a  very  narrow  space,  within  lofty  rocky 
embankments,  between  which  the  water  rushes  with  great 
force  and  wildness  into  the  basin  below,  uniting  with  the 


Ti 
marl 
and  1 

Fr 

miles 

ty  ihi 

tic   h 

Geor^ 

road, 

WillJa 

Frenc 

the  sai 

cd  fror 

of  the 

gagem 

village 

Cali 
This  V 
and   al: 

House 

Sacond 

about 

abound 

ploymei 

hero  is  c 

but  littL 

Trave 

the   mo! 

'Springs, 

Hadley 

road,  an 

easily  pe 


%M 


4' 


tf^ 


CALDWELL. 


151 


rliOO 
1  the 
)n  its 
ucsts, 
ibatc. 
h  wa- 

Fmall 
hasms 
by  the 
s,  like 
ze  low- 
osed  of 
height, 
r,  com- 
mences 
ception 
^  e  been 

east  of 
listance 


above 
tion  of 
lie  and 
tlie 
Five 
h  are  a 
.    The 
etween 
bridge, 
Iver  hero 
y  rocky 
th  great 
ith  the 


ling 


There  are  extensive  quarries  of  black  and  variegated 
marble  at  Glen's  Falls,  which  is  lierc  sawed  into  slabs 
and  transported  to  New- York  for  mannfactiirc. 

From  Glen's  Falls  to  Lake  George  the  distance  is  9 
miles  over  an  indifferent  road,  affording  little  other  varie- 
ty than  mountains  and  forests,  with  here  and  tliere  a  rus. 
tic  hamlet.  Within  tlirec  and  a  half  miles  of  Lake 
George  on  the  right  hand,  and  a  short  distance  from  the 
road,  is  pointed  out  the  rock  at  the  foot  of  which  Col. 
Williams  was  massacred  by  the  Indiau.-s,  during  the 
French  war.  At  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  farther,  on 
the  same  side  of  the  road,  is  the  "  Bloody  Pond,^^  so  call- 
ed from  its  waters  having  been  crimsoned  with  the  blood 
of  the  slain  who  fell  in  its  vicinity,  during  a  severe  en- 
gagement in  1755.  Tliree  miles  farther  is  situated  the 
village  of 

Caldwell,  on  the  south-western  margin  of  the  lake. 
This  village  contains  a  number  of  neat  httle  buildings, 
and  about  400  inhabitants.  The  Lake  George  Coffee 
House  is  fitted  up  in  good  style,  and  can  accommodate 


Sacondaga  river,  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  which  rises 
about  60  miles  at  the  nortli-^  est.  Both  of  these  rivers 
abound  with  trout  and  other  fish,  affording  ample  em- 
ployment for  those  who  are  fond  of  angling.  The  country 
here  is  extremely  rugged  and  mountainous,  and  presents 
but  little  appearance  of  cultivation. 

Travellers  designing  to  visit  these  places,  will  find  it 
the  most  convenient  to  take  a  carriage  at  Saratoga 
Springs,  from  which  to  Jessup's  Falls  is  14  miles,  and  to 
Hadley  Falls  5  miles  further.  The  route  is  over  a  good 
road,  and,  including  a  visit  of  two  or  three  hours,  may  be 
easily  performed  (going  and  returning)  m  a  day. 

N 


J;  \ 


'I' I- 


^«* 


152 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


m 


U^'i 


I    1  1^  V  ' 


from  80  to  100  visitante.  There  are  here,  also,  a  post- 
office,  a  church,  and  a  court  house.  The  village  is  bor- 
dercd  on  the  cast  by  a  range  of  hills,  to  the  highest  of 
which,  called  Prospect  Hill,  a  road  has  been  niadc,  and 
though  difficult  of  ascent,  the  pedestrian  is  richly  com- 
pensated in  the  diversified  and  extensive  prospect  afford- 
ed  him  from  its  summit. 

LAKE    GEORGE 

Is  situated  but  a  short  day's  ride  from  the  village  of 
Saratoga  Springs,  (27  miles,)  from  whence  an  excursion 
to  the  Lake  is  considered  as  a  matter  of  course.  At  the 
village  of  Caldwell  it  is  about  a  mile  wide,  but  it  general- 
ly varies  from  three  fourths  of  a  mile  to  four  miles.  The 
waters  are  discharged  into  Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonde-. 
roga,  by  an  outlet  which,  in  the  distance  of  2  miles,  falls 
180  feet. 

Lake  George  is  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of  its 
waters.  They  are  generally  very  deep,  but  at  an  ordi- 
nary depth  the  clean  gravelly  bottom  is  distinctly  visible. 
The  great  variety  of  excellent  fish  which  are  caught  here 
renders  it  a  favorite  resort  for  those  who  are  fond  of  ang- 
ling. The  lake  is  interspersed  with  a  large  number  of 
small  islands,  the  principal  of  which,  Diamond  Island, 
once  containing  a  military  fortification,  and  Tea  Island, 
on  which  is  a  summer  house  erected  for  the  amusement 
of  parties  of  pleasure,  are  visible  from  the  head  of  the 
lake.  The  whole  number  of  islands  is  said  to  equal  the 
number  of  days  in  a  year. 

The  Fcencry  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  generally 
mountainous.     With  the  exception  of  some  intervals, 


V 


LAKE  GEORGB. 


153 


1  post- 
is  bor- 
hest  of 
Ic,  and 
,y  com- 
afford- 


iilage  of 
xcursion 
At  the 
general- 
;s.  The 
Ticonde- 
liles,  falls 

icy  of  its 

an  ordi- 

y  visible. 

ght  here 

of  ang- 

lumber  of 
d  Island, 
a  Island, 
uscment 
ad  of  the 
equal  the 

generally 
intervals, 


n 


chequered  with  fruitful  cultivation,  the  land  recedes  from 
the  shores  with  a  gentle  acclivity,  for  a  few  rods,  and 
then,  with  a  bolder  ascent,  to  an  elevation  of  from  500  to 
1500  feet.  The  best  view  of  the  lake  and  its  environs  is 
had  from  tlie  southern  extremity,  near  tiie  remains  of  old 
Fort  George,*  from  whence  the  prospect  embraces  tlie 
village  of  Caldwell  and  the  numerous  httlc  islands  rising 
from  the  waters,  which  are  beautifully  contrasted  with 
the  parallel  ridges  of  craggy  mountains,  through  an  ex- 
tent of  nearly  14  miles.  Near  the  southern  shore  are  the 
ruins  of  an  old  fortification,  called 

Fort  William  IIenrv.  Vestiges  of  the  walls  and 
out-works  are  still  to  be  seen.  Previous  to  its  construc- 
tion, the  site  of  the  fort  was  occupied  by  the  English 
army  under  the  command  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  who 
was  making  preparations  for  an  attack  upon  Crown  Point. 
Before  any  movement,  however,  was  made  by  him,  the 
French  army,  under  the  command  of  Baron  Dicskau, 
marched  from  Ticonderoga  for  Fort  Edward,  but  after- 
wards changing  his  purpose,  he  was  proceeding  to  the 
head  of  the  lake,  when  he  unexpectedly  fell  in  with  a 
party  of  the  English,  who  had  been  detached  by  Sir 
William  for  the  relief  of  Fort  Edward.  A  severe  battle 
ensued,  in  which  the  English  were  defeated,  and  com- 
pelled hastily  to  retire  from  the  field.  They  were  pursu- 
ed into  their  intrenchments  by  the  French  army,  who 
commenced  a  furious  asssault 


upon 


iglish   camj) 


*  A  very  good  prospect  is  also  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  Lake  George  House  ;  but  one  far  better  from  Pros- 
pect Hill,  previously  mentioned.  ,         ,«,., 


Ml 


7-*      /Up- 


154 


LAKE  (iEORGK. 


I?'r-I'''"'.    " 


b^m&[ 


l!"  ;!:! 


W'    ^ 


but  were  repulsed  with  great  slanprhter.  The  discomfited 
Baron,  on  his  retreat  from  this  unsuccessful  attack, 
was  a  third  time  enga^red  by  a  party  of  Engflish,  who 
had  been  despatched  by  the  jrarrison  at  Fort  Edward,  to 
succor  Sir  William,  and  totally  defeated.  These  three 
Beveral  enjr'igemcr'^^s  took  place  on  the  same  day,  tiie  6th 
September,  i7f.  m  the  vicinity  of  Bloody  Pond,  into 
which  the  b*  ,1*  .*  '  the  slain  were  afterwards  thrown. 
In  1757  Fort  V.  ilhan. '  "'"nry  contained  a  garrison  of  3000 
men,  under  the  command  of  Col.  Munroe.  The  Marquis 
de  Montcalm,  after  three  attempts  to  besiege  the  fort, 
reinforced  his  army  to  about  10,000  men,  and  summoned 
Col.  Munroe  to  surrender.  This  summons  being  refused, 
Montcalm,  after  a  furious  assault,  obliged  the  English  to 
capitulate.  The  terms  of  the  capitulation,  though  hon- 
orable to  the  Engl'jh,  were  shamefully  violated  by  the 
Indians  attached  to  the  French  army,  who  massacred  the 
whole  garrison,  except  a  small  remnant  who  made  their 
escape  to  Fort  Edward,  The  fort  was  razed  to  the 
ground  by  Montcalm,  and  was  never  afterwards  rebuilt. 
This  spot  was  the  scene  of  embarkation  of  Gen.  Aber- 
crombie,  who,  in  1758,  descended  the  lake  with  an  army 
of  15,000  men,  for  an  attack  on  Ticonderoga. 

About  80  rods  farther  south,  on  a  commanding  emi- 
nence, are  situated  the  vestiges  of  old  Fort  George. 
This  fort,  though  not  distinguished  by  any  event  of  im- 
portance, yet,  in  connection  with  the  history  of  Lake 
George,  imparts  an  interest  which  a  stranger  will  readily 
embrace  in  a  visit  to  its  mouldering  ruins.  A  part  of  the 
walls,  which  were  originally  built  of  stone,  are  still  visi- 
ble, from  30  to  40  feet  ia  height.     It  was  the  depot  for 


I 


1 


111'.  I'l.-,     t 


lomfited 

attack, 
3h,  who 
ivard,  to 
sc  three 
,  the  6th 
nd,  into 
thrown. 

of  3000 
Marquis 
the  fort, 
mmoned 

refused, 
nglish  to 
agh  hon- 
d  by  the 
Lcrcd  the 
ide  their 
to  the 
rebuilt. 

n.  Aber- 
an  army 

ing  emi- 

rEORGE. 

it  of  im- 
of  Lake 
readily 
rt  of  the 
still  visi- 
lepot  for 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


155 


the  stores  of  Gen.  Burgoyno,  for  some  time  during  tho 
revolutionary  war. 

A  wstcamboat  usually  performs  a  daily  trip  on  Lake 
George,  so  as  to  intersect  the  boats  running  to  Lake 
Champlain  ;  leaving  Caldwell  in  tho  morning,  and  return- 
ing at  evening.  The  length  of  the  lake,  on  which  the 
boat  runs,  is  36  miles.  From  the  steamboat  landing  to 
Ticondcroga  is  a  distance  of  3  miles  ;  for  which  a  con- 
veyance is  readily  obtained.  Refreshments  arc  provided 
at  a  tavern  half  a  mile  from  the  landing,  after  which  pai 
ties  usually  proceed  to  the  fort,  and  return  to  the  tavc  i 
the  same  evening,  from  whence  they  may  take  the  1  t 
on  its  return  the  next  day  to  Caldwell. 

In  proceeding  down  the  lake  from  Caldweil,  Tw  ''ir 
Mile  Island  is  reached  in  going  that  distance.  It  is  of 
a  circular  form,  containing  about  20  acres,  situated  in 
the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  is  elevated  30  or  40  feet  above 
the  water.  From  thence  one  mile,  on  the  northwest  side 
of  the  lake,  is 

Tongue  Mountain,  with  West  Bay  on  its  west  side, 
a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  extending  in  a  northerly 
direction  6  miles.  What  are  called  the  Narrows  com- 
mence  here,  and  continue  for  6  or  7  miles,  being  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  very  deep.  A  line  500  feet 
long  has  been  used  in  sounding,  without  reaching  bottom. 

Black  Mountain,  18  miles  from  the  herd  of  the  lake, 
is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  has  been  ascertained,  by 
admeasurement,  to  be  2200  feet  in  height.  Opposite  to 
Black  Mountain,  near  the  western  shore,  is 

Half  Way  Island.  A  short  distance  north  of  this  is 
some  of  the  finest  mountain  scenery  on  the  continent. 

n2 


:'*': 


'A 


H 


i".  7  «V . 


:ir^- 


156 


LAKE  GKOIKiK. 


I    *. 


li,lil,|i 


im 


ft"     -  ',■  ■••;!■ 


■t^lf 


4 


,p 


f  i,i*'  (,  '•Hi 


■'4'  '^ 


.  < 


The  mountains,  exhibit  inj[r  an  undulatinpr  appearance,  are 
thickly  studded  witli  pines  and  firs,  and  interspersed  with 
deep  and  almost  impenetrable  caverns. 

SvBBATH  Day  Polnt,  24  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  a  pro- 
jrction  of  the  main  land  into  the  lake  from  the  west  side. 
It  i.}  a  place  on  which  the  P^nglish  troops  landed  on  the 
Sabbath  during  the  French  war,  and  is  the  spot  on  which 
a  sanguinary  battle  was  fought  with  the  Indians.  The 
English,  with  no  chance  of  retreat,  were  all  killed.  From 
thence,  3  miles,  is  a  small  island  called  the  Scotch  Bon- 
net. Three  miles  farther,  on  the  western  shore  of  the 
lake,  is  a  httlc  haml{!t  called  by  the  inhabitants  the  City 
of  Hague,  containing  only  two  or  three  dwellings,  and 
as  many  saw  mills.  The  lake  is  here  4  miles  wide,  being 
its  greatest  width.     From  this  place  to 

IloGEiis'  Slide,  is  3  miles.  This  is  celebrated  as  the 
spot  where  Col.  Rogers  escaped  from  the  Indians  during 
the  French  war.  The  descent  is  an  angle  of  about  25 
degrees,  over  a  tolerably  smooth  rock,  200  feet  in  height. 
The  Colonel,  who  had  been  a  gicat  foe  to  the  Indian?, 
was  nearly  surrounded  by  them  on  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  found  no  other  means  of  escape  than  to  slide 
down  this  precipice.  It  being  winter,  and  having  snow 
shoes  on  his  feet,  he  landed  safely  on  the  ice.  The  In- 
dians afterwards  saw  hun  ;  but  supposing  that  no  human 
being  could  have  made  the  descent,  and  that  he  must  of 
course  be  supernatural,  they  concluded  it  not  only  useless 
but  dangerous  to  follow  him. 

Anthony's  Nose,  so  called  from  its  singular  shape,  is  a 
high  rock,  nearly  opjxjsite  to  Rogers'  Shde.     The  shores 


LAKK  GnORGE. 


157 


ince,  arc 
rsed  with 

,  is  a  pro. 
vest  side. 
;d  on  tho 
on  whicli 
ns.  The 
id.  From 
Tcn  BoN- 
ire  of  tlic 
!  the  City 
ings,  and 
ide,  being 

ted  as  tlic 

.ns  during 

about  25 

in  heijrht. 

Tnfi'an?, 
he  moun- 
a  to  slide 
dug  snow 

The  In- 
110  human 
e  must  of 
ily  useless 

shape,  is  a 
'he  shores 


here  are  bold  and  contracted,  and  exhibit  massive  rocks, 
which  arc  from  50  to  100  feet  in  heijrht.  From  thence  to 
Frisonmr's  Island,  is  2  mi'es,  a  spot  where  prisoners 
were  confined  during  the  French  war  ;  and  directly  west 
of  this  is  Lord  IIovvk's  Point,  so  called  from  being  the 
place  where  Lord  IIowc  landed  immediately  previous  to 
the  battle  in  which  he  was  killed  at  Ticonderoga.  He 
was  a  brother  of  Lord  Howe,  who  commanded  the  Brit- 
ish forces  at  Piiiladelphia,  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
The  water  here,  from  a  deep  green,  assumes  a  light  color, 
owing  to  a  clayey  bottom.  From  Ihcnce  to  the  outlet  of 
the  lake,  which  terminates  the  steamboat  passage,  is  one 
mile.  Three  miles  farther,  over  a  circuitous  and  uneven 
road,  in  an  easterly  direction,  is  the  fort  and  ruins  of 

TicoNDF^.ROGA.  The  point  projects  between  the  lake  on 
one  side,  which  here  suddenly  expands  to  the  west,  and 
the  creek  on  the  other  side,  which  unites  the  waters  of 
lakes  George  and  Champlain.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  latter  lake,  in  a  south-east  direction,  stands  Mount 
Independence.  Mount  Defiance,  720  feet  in  height,  is 
situated  across  the  creek  directly  west  of  the  Fort.  This 
height  was  occupied  by  the  artillery  of  C^en.  Burgoyne  in 
1777,  when  the  Americans  were  compelled  to  evacuate 
Ticonderoga.  The  fortress  of  Ticonderoga  was  first  con- 
structed by  the  French  in  175G.  The  works,  which  appear 
to  have  been  very  strong,  are  elevated  about  200  feet  above 
the  level  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  many  of  the  walls  are 
still  standing.  The  magazine  is  nearly  entire.  It  is  35 
feet  long,  15  feet  wide,  and  8  feet  high,  constructed  un- 
der ground,  of  stone,  and  arched.  A  subterraneous  pas- 
sago  leads  from  the  southwest  comer  of  the  works  to  the 


It'  (■ 


^* 


158 


TICONDKROGA. 


I 


1      '    : 


wm 


lake,  20  or  30  rods  in  Icngtli.  Through  this  jiassage  Col. 
Ethan  Allen  passed  when  he  took  possession  of  the  fort 
"  in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental 
Congress."  The  remains  of  another  fortilication,  huilt 
during  the  revolutionary  war,  are  still  to  be  seen  about  60 
rods  farther  south  on  the  point  adjoining  the  lake.  The 
walls  next  to  the  lake  an;  nearly  GO  feet  high. 

In  1758  Ticonderoga  was  attacked  by  (General  Aber- 
crombic,  who  was  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  2000  men. 
On  the  approach  of  Gen.  Amherst,  in  1759,  it  was  quietly 
abandoned  by  tlie  Fn^nch,  as  was  also  Crown  Point. 
It  continued  in  possession  of  the  Britisli  until  the  year 
1775,  when  it  was  taken  by  Col.  Allen.  On  evacuating 
the  fort  in  1777,  Gen.  St.  Clair  ordered  a  detachment  to 
accompany  the  American  stores  and  baggage  to  White- 
hall, where  they  were  pursued  by  Gen.  Burgoyne,  and 
from  thence  to  Fort  Ann.  At  the  latter  place  a  smart 
skirmish  ensued  between  the  two  parties,  in  which  the 
British  sustained  a  considerable  loss.  Tlie  main  army  re- 
tired from  Ticonderoga  to  Hubbardton,  Vt.  where  a  party, 
consisting  of  about  1000  under  Col.  Warner,  were  over- 
taken  by  the  British  advanced  guard,  and  after  a  severe 
action  abandoned  the  field  to  superior  rumbers.  From 
thence  they  joined  Gen.  Sclmyler  at  Fort  Edward  on  the 
12th  July,  1777. 

From  Ticonderoga,  travellers  designing  a  tour  to  Mon- 
treal  and  Quebec,  may  take  passage  in  a  Champlain  steam 
boat,  for  St.  Johns.  The  boat  arrives  towards  evening, 
and  the  passage  from  thence  to  Pittsburgh,  with  the 
exception  of  about  15  miles  to  Crown  Point,  is  generally 
in  the  night.    At  present  the  most  usual  arrangements  of 


i 

'.A 

'    9 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  WKSI . 


l-)9 


gfi  Col. 
lie  fort 
inenial 
n,  built, 
lout  60 
.    The 

l1  Aber- 
lO  men. 
quietly 
1  Point, 
lie  year 
Lcuating 
mont  to 
White, 
'ne,  and 
a  smart 
licii  the 
rniy  re- 
a  party, 
ere  over- 
a  severe 
.     From 
d  on  the 

to  Mon- 

|in  steam 

jvening, 

^ith  tlie 

[enerally 

lents  of 


I 


the  tourist  arc,  after  visiting  Lake  (icorgfo  and  Ticondc- 
rojra,  to  return  t  >  the  Springs,  and  from  thence  proceed 
by  rail  road  to  Syracuse  oc  Auburn,  and  tako  a  passage 
by  canal  or  stage  for  Niagara. 

EXCURSION   TO   THFj  WEST. 

Travellers  who  design  to  visit  Niagara  and  return  with- 
out proceeding  down  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal,  will  find 
an  excursion  the  most  pleasant  and  diversified  by  taking 
the  rail  roads  as  far  as  they  arc  perfecttd,  and  stages  in 
going  and  canal  boats  in  returning,  on  the  internu^diatc 
parts  of  the  route.  The  stage  route  aifords  a  better  pros- 
pect  of  the  populous  parts  of  the  country  ;  but  is  general- 
ly so  far  from  the  canal,  that  no  opportunity  is  given  of 
witnessing  many  of  the  thriving  villages  on  its  banks.  It 
is  therefore  advisable  so  to  arran;;e  a  tour  that  the  most 
interesting  parts  of  both  routes  may  be  seen  in  going  and 
returning.  To  effect  this,  a  rail  road  passage  can  be 
taken  at  Saratoga  Springs  for  Auburn,  179  miles  ;  from 
whence  the  stage  route  through  Geneva,  Canandaigua 
and  Batavia  to  Buffalo,  128  miles  from  Auburn,  will  be 
continuous,  unless  Rochester  shall  be  visited  in  the  excur- 
sion— in  which  case,  the  Tonawanda  rail  road,  from  that 
place  to  Batavia,  32  miles  distant,  can  be  taken,  and  the 
stage  route  pursii<  d  to  Buffalo,  40  miles  farther.  In  re- 
turning the  tourist  can  take  the  rail  road  from  Buffalo  via 
Niagara  Falls  to  Loci  port,  42  miles  ;  a  canal  packet  from 
thence,  via  Rochester  and  Palmyra,  to  Syracuse,  162 
miles,  and  a  rail  road  from  thence  to  Saratoga  Springs  or 
Albany. 


'5  »ip 


h' 


Ml 


i 


fi^^ 


w 


■J^ 


jsmi'j 


'i^^ 


160 


EXCURSION  TO   THE  WEST. 


If  the  tourist  designs  to  return  by  the  way  of  Montreal, 
the  following  route  to  the  Falls  is  reco.nrnended  as  the 
most  interesting :  Rail  road  from  Saratoga  Springs  to 
Auburn,  (as  before,)  179  miles;  stage,  via  Seneca  Falls, 
Waterloo,  Geneva  and  Canandaigua,  to  Rochester,  G6 
miles  •  rail  road  to  Batavia,  32  miles ;  stage  to  Buffalo, 
40  miles ;  rail  road  to  the  Falls,  22  miles  ;  rail  road  to 
Lewiston,  7  miles;  from  whence  (and  at Queenston,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Niagara  river)  the  Lake  Ontario 
steamboats  leave  for  Montreal.  Or,  if  he  desires  to 
visit  the  Falls  and  Buffalo  merely,  without  regard  to  the 
intermediate  cities  and  villages,  the  following  is  the  most 
expeditious  a^  well  as  the  easiest  and  cheapest  route : 
Rail  road  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Syracuse,  153  miles; 
canal  packet  to  Oswego,  38  miles ;  steamboat  to  Lewis- 
ton,  151  miles ;  rail  road  to  the  Falls,  7  miles ;  do.  to 
Buffalo,  22  miles. 

The  last  mentioned  route,  from  Saratoga  Springs  or 
from  Albany  to  the  Falls,  can  be  accomplished  in  two 
days.  The  other  routes  will  require  about  three.  That 
tourists,  however,  may  be  the  better  enabled  to  gratify 
their  taste  as  to  the  mode  of  travelling,  we  subjoin  a 
■sketch  of  each. 


lig" 

r- 


at  r 


nor 
for 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFFALO. 


161 


li-i  I 


FR03I  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO   BUFFALO, 


307  miles — [Rail  road  and  stage  route.] 
Miles. 


By  rail  road 

Ballr^ton  Spa, 7 

Schenectady, 15     22 

Amsterdam, 16     38 

Fonda, 10     48 

Palatine  Bridge,.,  11     59 

Fort  Plain,. 3     62 

St.  Johnsville,. . . .     7     69 

Little  Falls, 10     79 

Herkimer, 7     86 

Utica, 14  100 

Whitesboro', 4 

Oriskany, 3 

Rome, 8 

Syracuse,. .......  38 

Auburn, 26 

By  stage. 
Cayuga, 8  187 


104 
107 
115 
153 
179 


Seneca  Falls, 

Waterloo, 

Geneva, 

Canandaigua, 

East  Bloom  field,. , 
West  Bloomfield,. 

Lima, 

East  Avon, 

Avon  Post  Office,. 

Caledonia, 

Leroy, 

Batavia, .  • 

Pembroke, 

Clarence, 

Williamsville, 

Buffalo, 


Miles. 

4  191 

1 95 

202 

16  218 

9  227 

232 

236 

241 

243 

251 

6  257 

10  267 

14  281 

8  289 

8  297 

10  307 


4 

7 


5 

4 
5 

2 

8 


A  passage  by  rail  road  bctv^^een  Saratoga  Springs  and 
Auburn  can  be  effected  twice  a  day ;  though  the  morn- 
ing train  is  decidedly  preferable,  as  it  is  mostly  by  day- 
light. The  time  in  passing  over  the  respective  roads  is 
from  12  to  14  hours— fare  $1,50. 

The  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road  was  noticed 
at  p.  121. 

The  Utica  and  Schenectady  Rail  Road  commences 
at  State  street  in  Schenectady,  and  crossing  the  Mohawk 
river  on  a  permanent  bridge  800  feet  long,  contiimes  in  a 
northerly  direction  in  conjunction  with  the  Saratoga  road 
for  about  a  mile,  when  it  curves  to  tho  west  and  pursues 


-m 


162 


UTICA  AND  SCHENECTADY  RAIL  ROAD. 


W-:^ 


the  direction  of  the  Moliawk  valley,  which  it  reaches  in 
about  8  miles.  From  thence  it  continues  along  the 
northern  bank,  and  generally  in  view  of  the  river,  till 
within  3  or  4  miles  of  Utica,  when  it  re-crosses  the  river, 
and  the  southern  bank  is  pursued  to  Utica.  The  country 
is  remarkably  level,  and  generally  favorable  for  a  rail 
road — the  acclivities,  with  a  solitary  exception,  not  ex- 
ceeding 15  or  16  feet  per  mile.  At  Tripe  Hill,  about  20 
miles  from  Schenectady,  there  'r,  an  excavation  of  some 
magnitude  through  solid  rock  ;  after  passing  which,  the 
valley  spreads  out  and  affords  a  route  of  several  miles 
through  some  of  the  finest  meadows  in  the  state.  At 
the  Nose,  12  miles  farther,  the  passage  becomes  con- 
tracted by  bold  and  lofty  mountains,  affording,  for  some 
distance,  a  scanty  width  for  the  rail  road,  turnpike,  river 
and  canal,  the  latter  of  which  is  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  Mohawk.  After  passing  Palatine,  Canajoharie  and 
Fort  Plain,  embraced  within  a  distance  of  12  or  14  miles, 
the  valley  again  widens,  affording  a  charming  view  of  hill 
and  dale,  until  reaching  the  mountain  scenery  near  Little 
Falls.  This  is  by  far  the  most  interesting  part  of  the 
route.  Within  two  miles  of  the  village,  the  passage  of 
the  river  is  confined  within  very  narrow  limits  between 
two  lofty  and  preci})itous  mountains.  To  find  room  for 
the  canal,  it  became  necessary  to  excavate  and  remove 
immense  masses  of  rock,  and  even  to  form  an  aqueduct 
for  a  portion  of  it  in  the  river.  Similar  labor  was  requi- 
Bite  on  the  opposite  side,  in  finding  a  passage  for  the  rail 
road.  For  a  considerable  distance,  the  carriages  run  very 
near  a  rocky  barrier  of  great  height,  not  dissimilar  in  ap- 
pearance to  the  Palisadoes  between  the  Higlilands  and 


I 


i.  ■,  ':i 


AMSTERDAM. 


163 


aches  in 
long  the 
iver,  till 
Lhe  river, 
)  country 
br  a  rail 
,  not  ex- 
about  20 
I  of  some 
'hich,  the 
:ral  miles 
tate.     At 
mes  con- 
fer some 
like,  river 
jrn  side  of 
harie  and 
14  miles, 
iew  of  hill 
ear  Little 
rt  of  the 
)assage  of 
between 
room  for 
d  remove 
aqueduct 
as  requi. 
r  the  rail 
run  very 
ar  in  aj)- 
inds  and 


New- York.  Passing  this,  the  carriages  soon  cross  what 
is  called  "the  Gulf,"  ;juccecding  which,  are  alternate 
rocky  excavations  and  embankments  of  great  magnitude, 
until  the  road  parses  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  village. 
Seven  miles  farther,  after  crossing  the  West  Canada 
creek,  the  road  enters  upon  what  are  called  the  German 
Flats,  which  for  richness  and  beauty  are  not  surj)assed 
by  any  lands  on  the  continent.  Beyond  these,  the 
country  is  less  interesting  until  reaching  within  3  or  4 
miles  of  Utica  ;  when  the  finely  cultivated  farms  indicate 
their  contiguity  to  a  populous  and  flourishing  town.  The 
approach  to  Utica  is  peculiarly  fine, — a  full  view  of  the 
city  being  had  for  some  distance  previous  to  entering  it, 
together  with  the  depot  of  the  company,  and  its  build- 
ings, which  are  spacious  and  handsome.  The  whole 
route,  indeed,  possesses  much  interest,  exhibiting  a 
scenery  unusually  rich  and  diversified.  The  cost  of  the 
road,  including  fixtures,  engines,  &-c.  was  ^1,900,000. 

Schenectady.  (See  p.  120.) 

Amsterdam,  16  miles  west  of  Schenectady,  is  the  first 
village  of  any  magnitude  that  is  reached  on  the  route. 
It  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk  river,  over 
which  there  is  a  substantial  bridge.  .  The  village  contains 
about  150  houses,  and  has  become  a  place  of  considerable 
importance  from  its  proximity  to  the  river  and  the  Erie 
canal,  but  more  especially  so  from  the  creek  which  passes 
through  the  village,  and  which,  within  half  a  mile,  falls 
over  a  number  of  beautiful  cascades,  affording  admirable 
facilities  for  manufacturing  operatioas. 


•  if  R? 
!    'I 


''tWw  *t 


>1 -^  -J 


He  « 


1 M 


i 


II' ;1 


164 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  8TAOE  ROUTE. 


ij*< 


About  one  mile  from  Amsterdam,  on  the  r  >ath  sid ' 
cf  the  rail  road,  is  a  stone  building,  erected  by  Col.  Gu} 
Johnson,  son-in-law  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  vvhich  was 
occupied  by  the  former  previous  to  the  revolution ;  and  a 
mile  farther,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  is  a  stone 
building  which  was  occupied  by  Sir  John,  the  son  of  Sir 
William.  Three  miles  farther,  the  road  passes  around  the 
base  of  I'ripc  Hill,  affording  a  fine  prospect  of  the  country 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  embracing  the  broad  and 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  the  outlet  of  the  Scho- 
harie creek,  the  dam  and  bridge  across  the  same,  and  the 
Erie  canal;  thence  to  Caughnawaga,  an  old  and  un- 
important village,  is  four  and  a  half  miles,  and  to  the 
village  of 

Fonda,  the  capital  of  Montgomery  county,  half  a  m'.!'; 
farther.  It  contains  a  handsome  court  house,  a  first  rate 
public  house  and  several  other  buildings.* 

*  Johnstown,  celebrated  as  the  former  residence  of  Sir 
William  Johnson,  is  four  miles  north  of  tliis  place,  and 
is  the  capital  of  Fulton  county.  The  court  house 
and  jail  were  built  by  Sir  V  ul'nm.  The  Episcopal 
church,  also  built  by  liim,  am^  h>  •  xth  which  his  remains 
were  interred,  was  accidentally  destroyed  by  fire  in  the 
autumn  of  1836.  The  house,  or  what  is  called  the 
*'  Hall,"  formerly  occupied  by  him,  is  about  a  mile  from 
the  village.  Attached  to  it  is  a  building  which  was  used 
by  him  as  a  fort ;  into  which  he  had  occasion,  at  times,  to 
retreat  from  the  assaults  of  the  Indians.  The  marks  of 
tomahawks  are  still  visible  on  the  stair-casic  in  the  main 
building. 

The  battle  of  Johnstown,  October,  1781,  in  which  the 
British  and  Indians  were  defeated,  was  fought  on  the 
*'H?i:"  farm.  The  American  troops,  consisting  of  be* 
tweea  4  and  500.  were  commanded  by  Col.   Willet, 


< 


(«■:;; 


th  aid 
ol.  Gu} 
ch  was 
;  and  a 
a  stone 
n  of  Sir 
lunil  the 
country 
oad  and 
le  Scho- 
and  the 
and  un- 
d  to  the 

If  a  mil':; 
first  rate 


ce  of  Sir 

ace,  and 

•t    house 

i^piscopal 

remains 

*c  in  the 

lied   the 

lilc  from 

viis  used 

time?,  to 

marks  of 

llie  main 

•hich  the 
on  the 

g  of  be* 
Willet» 


POAT  PLAFN. 


165 


I 


The  Nose,  a  rocky  point  origmally  jutting  into  the  riv- 
er, and  which  was  deformed  to  make  room  for  the  rail 

road,  is  six  miles  farther  ;  from  wlicnce  to 

Palatine  Bridg:;  is  5  miles.  A  bridjTc  here  crosses 
the  Mohawk  river  to  the  villaiTc  of  CAXAjonAarR,  from 
whence  a  rail  road  to  Catskill,  noticed  at  page  111,  has 
been  c^ymmonced. 

FoKT  Plain,  a  flourishing  little  village,  is  3  miles  west 
of  Palatine  Bridge,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  A 
fort,  from  which  the  place  derives  its  name,  was  con- 
structed here  duiing  the  revolutionary  war ;  though  but 
little  of  its  remains  arc  now  to  be  seen.  The  place  was 
originally  settled  by  Germans,  who  suffered  severely  from 
the  early  Indian  wars  of  this  country.  During  the  revo- 
lution, thos?  who  had  taken  refuge  in  the  fort,  were  sur- 
prised by  Capt.  Butler,  on  his  return  from  burning  Cherry 
Valley,  and  became  a  prey  to  similar  atrocities. 

The  East  Canada  Creek  is  passed  by  a  substantial 
bridge,  in  going  4  miles  farther  ;*  from  which  to 

Little  Falls  is  6  miles.  This  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  cataract  in  the  vicinity,  which,  in  size,  is  much  in- 


who  died  a  few  years  since  at  New- York.  After  the 
defeat,  the  enjiny  were  pursued  by  him  to  the  Canada 
creek,  where  several  were  killed,  including  Maj.  Butler. 
Out  of  ()l)7  of  the  hostile  force  sent  on  this  expedition, 
but  220  returned  to  Canada. 

*  About  3  miles  west  of  the  East  Canada  creek,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river  and  canal,  a  brick  house 
is  seen,  standing^  on  elevated  ground,  which  was  the  for* 
mer  residence  of  Gen.  Herkimer.  He  received  a  wound 
in  a  skirmish  in  1777,  [i>rc  j>.  175)  of  which  he  died  at 
hia  residence.    His  remains  rcposo  iii  au  adjoining  fiel(U 


}L',k:'\-        ■•■■    »-..,, 


Mjir 


it 


fir  ' 


166 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTE.  ^ 


ferior  to  the  celebrated  Cohoes,  (noticed  at  p.  131,)  and 
has,  therefore,  been  denominated  the  Jjitlle  Falls  of  the 
Mohawk.  A  continuation  of  the  chain  of  the  Catsbergs 
crosses  the  river  at  this  place,  and  forms  a  rou^h  bed  for 
the  waters  of  the  cataract,  which  pour  over  the  rocky 
fragments  in  the  wildest  confusion.  Approachin<x  from 
the  east,  a  loftly  ridge  of  mountains,  frowning  in  grand- 
eur on  either  side,  conceals  the  course  of  the  river  and 
the  falls,  whose  vicinity  is  announced  only  by  the  distant 
din  and  foam  of  its  waters.  For  a  considerable  distance, 
a  narrow  pass  only  is  allowed  for  the  road,  river,  and  ca^ 
nal,  with  immense  natural  battlements  of  rock  on  either 
side,  affording  a  sublime  and  interesting  spectacle. 
About  half  a  mile  from  the  village  the  rail  road  curves  to 
the  left,  presenting  a  view  of  the  falls  tumbling  with  irre- 
sistible violence  over  a  gradual  rocky  descent  of  about 
eighty  vods.  At  the  termination  >f  the  ascent  is  situated 
the  village,  containing  about  200  houses  and  1800  inhab- 
itants. A  cluster  of  buildings,  rising  between  the  rushing 
whalers  of  the  Mohawk  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  rugged 
cliffs  and  emip'^'nces  on  the  other;  the  smooth  current  of 
the  stream  above  gently  gliding  to  the  tumultuous  scene 
below  and  beyond  the  distant  vale  of  the  Mohawk,  diver- 
sified with  fields,  orchards,  meadows,  and  farm  houses, 
all  contribute  to  set  off  the  romantic  appearance  for  which 
this  pi:  CO  ir,  s-^  justly  celebrated.  This  village  derives 
most  of  its  impoi'tance  from  the  facilities  for  trade  and 
commerce  aubrdcd  by  means  of  the  Mohawk  river  and 
the  Erie  canal.  Boats  were  formerly  transported  around 
the  falls  thr  ugh  a  canal  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 
This  old  canal  is  liow  connected  with  the  Erie  canal  on 


LITTLE  FALLS. 


167 


31,)  and 

Is  of  the 
atsbcrgs 
1  bed  for 
ic  rocky 
n<T  from 
1  grand- 
ivcr  and 
c  distant 
distance, 
,  and  ca^ 
on  either 
pectacle. 
lurves  to 
,vith  irre- 
of  about 
I  situated 
)0  inhab. 
J  rushing 
e  rugged 
uirent  of 
us  scene 
k,  diver- 
1  houses, 
or  wliich 
derives 
•ade  and 
iver  and 
d  around 
he  river, 
canal  on 


r-: 


the  soutli  side  of  the  river  by  means  of  an  aqueduct  184 
feet  long.  The  descent  of  tiic  Eric  canal  here,  in  tlic 
distance  of  one  mile,  is  40  feet,  which  is  passed  by  five 
locks. 

The  Aqueduct  across  the  river  is  one  of  the  finest  spe- 
cimens of  masonry  on  the  whole  line  of  the  canal,  though 
less  stupendous  than  the  locks  at  Lockport,  and,  in  ex- 
tent,  falling  considerably  short  of  the  aqueduct  at  Roches- 
ter. Tiie  river  is  passed  on  three  beautiful  arches  of  from 
40  to  50  feet  in  height,  with  flagging  on  either  side  of 
the  canal,  and  a  strong  ^ron  railing. 

The  Eric  canal,  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
winds  its  way  for  some  distance  along  the  side  of  a  bold 
and  lofty  mountain,  the  cliannel  resting  on  a  wall  nearly 
30  feet  high,  constructed  from  the  bed  of  the  river  at  great 
expense.  The  view  atfordcd  of  mountain  scenery  on 
cither  side,  with  a  bare  passage  for  the  da?;]ting  waters  of 
the  Mohawk  between,  is  highly  interesting  and  sublime. 
Whichever  way  the  eve  is  turned,  it  rests  on  huge  masses 
of  granite  and  hmestone,  piled  in  heaps.  These  rocks  in 
some  places  rise  to  a  great  height,  almost  perpendicular, 
presenting  a  bleak  dark  surface,  unbleached  by  the  thou- 
sand storms  v.hich  have  beat  upon  them  ;  others  present 
a  rugged  and  un  nxn  face,  crowned  and  overhung  by  dark 
evergreens,  dipping  their  verdure  into  the  foaming  torrent 
below  ;  ihe  fissures  between  others  of  these  huge  piles 
produce  hickory,  maple  and  other  trees,  which  hang  from 
them,  and  with  their  sombre  shacow  deepen  the  gloomy 
darkness  of  ihe  rocks  from  which  they  spring ;  whilst  the 
scanty  soil  upon  others  gives  life  and  penurious  nourish- 
ment to  dwarf  oaks  and  vegetation  peculiar  to  similar  in* 

o2 


II 


ji 


.,1 


1  "•  r 


4 


168 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTE. 


hospitable  regions.  In  this  scene,  where  tlie  rude  but 
macrnificent  works  of  nature  are  so  profusely  displayed, 
the  imagination  is  overpowered,  in  their  sublimity,  and 
the  proudest  works  of  man,  and  man  himself,  lose  their 
importance. 

The  road,  after  leaving  Little  Falls,  follows  the  bank  of 
the  river,  in  full  view  of  the  rich  alluvial  vale  called  the 
Herkimer  and  (ierman  Flats.  This  region,  now  glowing 
in  all  the  beauty  of  successful  cultivation,  was  once  the 
theatre  of  the  most  sanguinary  warfare.  During  the 
French  and  revolutionary  wars,  it  was  the  scene  of  many 
barbarous  incur:^ions  of  the  whites  as  well  as  savages.  It 
was  invaded  by  the  French  after  the  capture  of  Fort  Os- 
wego  in  1756,  and  in  1757  the  settlements  were  desolated 
by  fire  and  sword.  In  the  centre  of  these  flats  is  situa- 
ted  the  village  of 

Herkimer,  7  miles  from  Little  Falls.  West  Canada 
creek,  on  which  are  the  celebrated  Trenton  Falls,  noticed 
in  pubsequent  pages,  enters  the  Mohawk  river  about  half 
a  mile  east  of  the  village,  and  is  passed  near  its  mouth  by 
a  well  constructed  bridge.  The  village  is  principally  built 
on  two  parallel  streets.  It  contains  a  handsome  court 
house  and  jail,  about  130  dwelling  houses,  and  1000  in- 
habitants.  Between  Herkimer  and  Utica,  on  the  soutli 
side  of  the  river,  is  the  village  of  Frankfort,  about  5 
miles  from  the  former  and  9  from  the  latter  place.  The 
country  after  leaving  Herkimer  is  quite  level,  and  remark- 
ably fertile,  though  not  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 


UTICA. 


169 


rude  but 
displayed, 
mity,  and 
lose  their 

10  bank  of 
called  the 
kV  glowing 
once  the 
during  the 
e  of  many 
vages.  It 
f  Fort  Os. 
;  desolated 
ts  is  situa- 

3t  Canada 

lis,  noticed 

about  half 

mouth  by 

ipally  built 

ame  court 

d  1000  in. 

the  south 

T,  about  5 

ace.     The 

id  remark- 

ation. 


I 


1 


UTICA. 

This  flourishing  place  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  and  occupies  the  site  of  old  '-"ort  Schuyler, 
where  a  garrison  was  kept  previous  to  the  revolution.  A 
few  Germans  were  settled  hero  before  that  period ; 
but  a  part  were  captured  by  the  Indians  and  the 
remnant  sought  a  place  of  more  security.  The  first 
permanent  settler  established  himself  about  4  miles  west 
of  Fort  Schuyler  in  1784.  Five  years  afterwards  a 
few  families  established  themselves  on  the  site  of  the 
present  town.  In  1798,  a  village  charter  was  granted, 
and  in  1832,  the  place  vv-\s  incorporated  inlo  a  city,  and 
contains  at  the  present  time  about  10,000  inhabitants.  It 
is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  of  good  width,  and  mostly 
paved.  Genesee  street,  in  particular,  is  peculiarly  pleas- 
ant,  and  for  the  most  part  adorned  with  elegant  stores 
and  dwellings. 

There  are  numerous  literary,  benevolent  and  religious 
instit'itions  in  this  place  ;  among  which  are  16  churches, 
a  lyceum,  an  academy,  a  high  school.  Female  Institute, 
museum,  and  an  institution  called  the  Young  Men's  As- 
sociation,  in  which  there  is  a  library  and  reading  room, 
which  arc  gratuitously  opened  for  the  use  of  strangers. 
There  are  also  3  banks,  an  insurance  company,  and  from 
6  to  8  newspaper  establishments. 

The  principal  Hotels,  which  are  in  Genesee  street,  are 
Bagg's,  near  the  termination  of  the  rail  road  ;  the  Na. 
tional  Hotel,  and  the  Canal  Coffee  House,  near  the  canal ; 
and  the  City  Hotel  and  Franklin  House,  farther  south. 


it 


Mm 


r 


}'       '' 


1 


w 


!s*:i 


I'l  '^'l 


'Ifi  '''^i 


170 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


The  lands  adjoining  Utica  arc  richly  cultivated,  pre- 
sentinir  a  succession  of  b(autiful  farms  and  country  scats. 
There  arc  also  various  objocisof  attraction  in  the  vicinity, 
a  visit  to  whicli  may  l)e  ranked  amonpf  the  pleasures  of  an 
excursion  to  tlic  west.  C)fth(!se  arc  Trenton  Falls,  at 
the  north  ;  t:.c  York  Mills,  and  Clinton  Village  contain, 
ing  Hamilton  College,  all  within  a  few  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction. 

Trknton  Falls  are  15  miles  from  the  city,  and  a  visit 
thither  generally  occupies  a  day.  They  are  on  the  West 
Canada  creek,  about  22  miles  from  its  confluence  with 
the  Mohawk  river  at  Herkimer. 

The  creek,  in  its  way  from  the  summit  ot  the  highlands 
of  Black  river  to  its  lower  valley,  crosses  a  ridge  of  lime- 
stone 4  or  5  miles  in  breadth,  stretching  tlirough  the  coun- 
try from  the  Mohawk  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  Its  course 
over  this  ridge  by  its  tortous  bed  is  6  or  7  miles,  2  1-2  of 
which  are  above  the  falls.  The  waters,  soon  after  reach- 
ing the  limestone,  move  with  accelerated  strides  over  the 
naked  rocks  to  the  hofcl  of  the  upi)er  fall,  where  they  are 
precipitated  18  or  20  feet  down  an  abru])t  ledge  into  a 
spacious  basin.  The  whole  descent  to  the  head  of  this 
fall  in  the  last  two  miles  is  computed  at  60  feet.  Here  a 
deep  and  winding  raviiie  begins,  which  extends  down  the 
stream  more  than  2  miles.  Its  average  depth  is  estima- 
ted at  100  feet,  and  its  average  breadth  at  the  top  200. 
The  sides  and  bottom  consist  of  limestone  disposed  in 
horizontal  layers,  wliich  abound  with  organic  remains. 
The  sides  are  shelving,  perpendicular  and  overhanging  ; 
and  some  of  the  trees  that  have  taken  root  in  the  fissures 
of  the  rocks  are  pendant  over  the  abyss,  where  they  form 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


171 


od,  pre 
•y  scats, 
vicinity, 
■es  of  an 
b^alla,  at 
contain. 
wcBtcrly 

(1  a  visit 
he  West 
ice  with 

lighlands 
:  of  limc- 
thc  coun- 
ts  course 
2  1-2  of 
cr  rcacli- 
ovcr  the 
they  are 
re  into  a 
d  of  this 
Here  a 
down  the 
s  estima- 
top  200. 
posed  in 
remains. 

hanging ; 
e  fissures 
;hcy  form 


s 


the  most  fanciful  appearancrs  imaginable.  The  country 
adjoining'  is  nu-stly  covered  with  forest  trees,  so  tluit  no 
appearance  of  the  ravine  is  vi.sil)le  until  its  verge  is  reached. 
Of  the  six  talis,  that  above  the  high  bridge  on  the  Black 
river  road  is  called  the  Upper ;  the  second,  a  mile  below, 
the  Cascades  ;  the  third,  a  little  lower  down,  the  Mill- 
dim  ;  the  fourth,  40  rods  farther,  the  Ilitrh  Falls  ;  the 
fifth,  about  70  rods  farther,  Sherman's;  and  the  sixth,  at 
the  termination  of  the  ravine,  C«jnrad's.  All  tluse  arc 
formed  by  solid  reefs  of  rocks  which  cross  the  b«>d  of  the 
stream. 

The  water  at  the  Upper  Fall  descends  18  or  20  feet 
perpendicularly.  Below,  there  is  a  spacious  basin,  out  of 
which  the  stream  issues  in  a  diminished  bed  into  the  ra- 
vine, the  entrance  of  which  is  between  lofty  barriers  of 
rocks.  This  fall,  when  viewed  from  the  bridge,  or  from 
the  high  ground  v.'est  of  the  creek,  has  a  fine  appearance. 

At  the  Cascades,  consisting  of  2  pitches,  with  inter- 
vening rapids,  the  water  falls  1 8  feet.  The  bed  of  the 
stream  is  here  contracted,  and  the  sides  serrjited,  the 
banks  of  the  ravine  rising  with  abruptness  almost  directly 
in  the  rear. 

The  Mill-dam  Fall,  which  is  the  second  within  the  ra- 
vine, has  an  abrupt  descent  of  14  feet,  the  stream  being 
about  60  yards  broad  at  the  break. 

Of  the  High  F'alls,  which  are  3  in  number,  the  first  has 
a  perpendicular  descent  of  48  feet ;  in  floods  the  water 
covers  the  whole  break  and  descends  in  one  sheet ;  but  at 
other  times,  mostly  in  two  grooves  at  the  west  side  of  the 
fall.  The  second  has  a  descent  of  about  11  feet;  the 
third  37  feet ;  and  the  three,  including  the  slopes  and 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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172 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


pitches,  109  feet.  In  freshets  and  floods,  the  entire  bed 
at  the  High  Falls  is  covered  with  water  of  a  milk  whit-j 
color,  and  the  spray  wircli  at  such  time?  a^^r^nds  in  pillars 
t.v.vards  Uk  sky,  v^hcn  acted  upon  by  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
exhibit  the  rainbow  in  all  its  brilliaift  colors. 

Sherman's  Fall  descends  about  33  feel  when  the  stream 
is  low,  and  '67  when  hij]jh.  In  droughts,  the  water 
pitches  down  at  the  west  side. 

The  last  fall,  which  is  at  Conrad's  mills,  at  the  foot  of 
the  ravine,  is  G  feet. 

Besides  the  falls,  there  arc  several  raceways  or  chutes, 
from  10  to  20  rods  long,  through  which  the  waters  pass 
with  great  rapidity.  The  whol .'  depression  of  the  stream 
from  the  top  of  the  Upper  Fall  above  the  high  bridge  to 
the  foot  of  Conrad's,  is  312  feet ;  and  if  we  add  the  de- 
scent  above  the  Upper  Fall,  which  is  computed  to  be  bO 
feet,  and  that  below  Conrad's  fall  in  half  a  mile,  which  is 
estimated  at  15  feet,  we  shall  f  nd  that  the  entire  depres- 
sion  in  less  than  5  miles,  is  387  feet. 

The  falls,  raceways  and  rapids,  and  indeed  the  whole 
bed  within  the  ravine,  exhibit  very  different  appearances) 
at  different  times.  Tlicsc  are  occasioned  by  the  elevi- 
lions  and  depressions  of  the  stream.  In  floods,  the  whole 
is  one  tremendous  rapid,  with  four  cataracts  and  several 
chutes. 

The  best  time  to  visit  these  falls  is  when  the  stream  is 
low,  because  then  there  is  no  inconvenience  or  difficulty 
in  ascending  the  ravine  from  the  foot  of  Sherman's  stair- 
way  to  the  head  of  the  upper  raceway.  The  lofty  rocky 
barriers,  which  constitute  the  sides  of  this  ravine,  advance 
to  the  water's  edge  in  many  places,  and  could  not  be 


t 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


173 


i: 


ritire  bed 
ilk  whit3 

ill  pillars 
f  the  sun, 

lie  stream 
he   water 

he  foot  of 

or  chutes, 
iters  pass 
he  stream 
bridge  to 
Id  the  de- 
\  to  be  bO 
!,  which  is 
ire  deprcs- 

Ithe  whole 

pearancea 

he  elevi- 

Ithe  v;hole 

id  several 

stream  is 

difficulty 

in's  stair- 

Ifty  rocky 

L  advance 

Id  not  be 


f 


passed  in  safety  until  some  of  the  projections  were  blasted 
away  and  chains  cn.'ctcd.  Since  tiicn,  persons  may  go 
up  the  upper  raceway  without  hazard. 

A  fine  hotel  is  kept  near  the  falls,  from  whence  a  path- 
way leads  to  the  stairway,  which  descends  to  the  bottom 
of  the  ravine,  and  another  leads  up  to  the  Hi^h  Falls. 
The  former  is  usually  preferred.  On  rcachinfj  the  strand, 
at  the  foot  of  the  stairway,  you  proceed  up  the  stream  at 
first  upon  the  strand,  and  then  by  a  narrow  winding  foot 
path  to  Sherman's  fall.  From  thence  you  advance  to  the 
High  Falls,  a  part  of  the  w;<y  being  overhung  by  large 
jutting  rocks  which  menace  you  with  destruction.  From 
the  head  of  the  High  Falls  to  the  upper  end  of  the  race- 
way above  the  Cascades,  the  way  is  easy  when  the  stream 
is  low,  but  from  thence  upwardly  it  is  more  difficult  and 
dangerous. 

Organic  remains  are  found  cnveloj)ed  in  the  rocks 
along  the  bottom  and  lower  parts  of  the  ravine,  and  are 
easily  divisible.  They  lie  flat  in  or  between  the  laminte, 
their  contours  and  component  parts  usually  being  little 
distorted  from  their  original  shape  and  dimensions. 
Sometimes  there  is  a  defect  occasioned  in  the  transition 
from  the  animal  to  the  stony  or  fossil  state  ;  but,  in  most 
instances,  all  the  parts  are  so  com{)letcly  defined,  that  not 
only  the  order  but  the  genera  and  species  may  be  recog- 
nized. Their  exteriors  are  commonly  glossy,  often  very 
smooth,  and  ordinarily  of  a  dark  color,  being  transformed 
into  stone,  and  constituting  integral  parts  of  the  rocks 
which  envelope  them.  From  a  careful  examination  of 
certain  of  these  remains,  and  their  positions,  we  are  led 
to  believe  that  their  prototypes  lived  and   died  on  the 


1- 


1^'  1j 

4 1 


•f'^. 


<f' 


W   '!'• 


W   "'I 


i:)j 


174 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTE. 


spot,  and  that  the  rocks  in  which  they  are  entombed  are 
of  posterior  formation. 

Ladies  visiting  the  Falls,  should  be  furnished  with 
calfskin  shoes  or  bootees  They  not  only  owe  it  to  their 
health  to  be  thus  provided,  but  the  best  pair  of  cloth  shoes 
will  be  ruined  by  a  single  excursion  over  these  rocks. 

Returning  to  TTtica,  the  traveller,  in  pursuing  a  journey 
to  the  west,  takes  the 

Utica  and  Syracuse  Rail  Road,  which  is  located  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  canal,  and  for  a  great  part  of  the  route 
over  a  low,  marsiiy,  unsettled  and  uninteresting  country. 
The  road  is  53  miles  long,  and  for  a  considerable  distance 
the  rails  rest  on  piles — the  only  means  of  obtaining  a  foun- 
dation.  Near  its  western  extremity  is  a  deep  excavation, 
rendered  necessary  in  obtaining  a  passage  beneaih  the 
canal. 

Whites  BOROUGH,  4  miles  west  of  Utica,  is  a  handsome 
village,  located  on  a  rich  and  fertile  plain.  The  principal 
street,  containing  several  handsome  dwellings,  with  large 
court-yards  and  gardens,  is  a  short  distance  from,  and 
runs  parallel  with  the  rail  road.  It  may  be  con^sidered, 
indeed,  as  better  adapted  for  a  country  residence  than  a 
place  of  business. 

Oriskany,  3  miles  from  Whitesborough,  is  a  flourishing 
village  of  about  100  houses.  It  is  situated  on  the  Oris- 
kany creek,  which  enters  the  canal  as  a  feeder.  The 
Oriskany  Manufacturing  Company  have  a  woollen  factory 
here,  which  is  the  most  extensive  of  the  kind  in  the  state. 

Rome,  8  miles  farther.  This  is  a  half  shire  town  of  the 
county  of  Oneida,  and  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 


lii 


HOVE. 


175 


ibed  are 

cd  with 
;  to  their 
ith  shoes 
cks. 
L  journey 

cated  in 
:he  route 
country, 
distance 
[g  a  foun- 
cavation, 
eaih  the 

andsomo 
principal 
ith  large 
om,  and 
iisidcrcd, 
than  a 

ourishing 
the  Oris- 
er.  The 
1  factory 
he  state. 

vn  of  the 
de  of  the 


old  canal  connecting  Wood  creek  with  the  Mohawk  river, 
and  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  Erie  canal.*  It  con^ 
tain«  a  bank,  court  iiouse,  jail,  and  *'bout  300  dwelhng- 
houscs,  principally  located  on  one  street,  running  east  and 
west.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Stanwix,  near  the  village  be-^ 
twccn  Wood  crock  and  the  Mohawk,  are  still  visible. 
This  fort  was  erected  in  1758  by  the  British,  and  wae 
afterwards  rebuilt  by  the  Americans  during  the  revolution. 
15  or  1800  men,  including  Indians,  were  sent  from  Mon* 
treal  by  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  to  besiege  the  fort.  They  were 
commanded  by  the  Baron  St.  Lcger.  Gen.  Herkimer, 
commandant  (soe  p.  165,)  of  the  militia  of  Tryon  county, 
(embracing  the  present  counties  of  Montgomery,  Fulton 
and  Herkimer,)  was  sent  against  them  with  about  800  men. 
On  meeting  the  detachment  of  Leger's  forces,  the  militia 
mostly  fled  on  the  first  fire.  A  few,  however,  remained 
and  fought,  by  the  side  of  Gen.  II.,  who  was  mortally 
wounded  in  the  road  between  Whitestown  and  Rome. 
The  Americans  lost  160  killed  and  240  wounded.  The 
fort,  which  was  commanded  by  Col.  Gansevoort,  was  af- 
terwards assaulted  by  Leger's  army  ;  but  they  were  driv- 
en off  by  a  sortie,  directed  by  Col.  Willet,  and  their  camp 
plundered.  Subsequently  the  fort  was  summoned  to  sur- 
render ;  but  through  a  stratagem  of  Gen.  Arnold,  who 
sent  two  emissaries  from  the  camp  at  Saratoga,  to  inform 
Leger  of  the  approach  of  a  powerful  American  army  for 
t!ie  relief  of  the  besieged,  he  ordered  a  precipitate  retreat 
to  the  Oneida  lake,  leaving  all  his  baggage  behind. 

*  In  the  imi)rovement  of  the  canal,  it  is  to  pass  through 
the  village. 


W 


f"      *a 


'  * 


176 


RAIL  ROAD  A^D  STAGE  EOUTE. 


A^  arsenal  belonging  to  the  United  States  is  situate 
iialf  a  mile  west  of  the  village. 

Syraccse,  the  capital  of  Onondaga  county,  38  miles  from 
Rome,  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Eric  can.^l,  and  con 
tains  about  800  dwellings  and  stores,  several  handsome 
chnrchcs,  2  banks,  a  court  house  and  jail.  The  village, 
which  exhibits  much  enterprise,  owes  its  importance 
principally  to  the  salt  produced  in  its  noighborliood,  the 
whole  adjacent  country  being  impregnated  with  it,  and 
springs  from  which  immense  quantities  are  manufactured 
rising  in  various  directions.  A  little  west  of  SjTacuse,  a 
p^.ain  of  400  acres  is  nearly  covered  with  vats  for  the 
manufacture  of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.  The  water  ia 
bropght  in  logs  from  the  great  spring  at  Salina,  one  mile 
distant,  which  supplies,  with  very  little  attention,  the  va- 
rious ranges  of  vats.  A  light  roof  is  constructed  to  each 
vat,  which  can  be  shoved  off  or  on  at  pleasure,  to  permit 
the  rays  of  the  sun  to  act  upon  the  water,  or  to  prevent 
the  dampness  of  the  atmosphere  from  commingling  there- 
with.  The  salt  is  taken  out  of  these  vats  twice  or  three 
times  during  the  warm  season,  and  removed  to  store 
houses  ;  thence  it  is  conveyed  in  barrels  to  the  canal  for 
transportation. 

The  Onondaga  creek,  affording  valuable  water  power, 
runs  through  the  village,  over  which  the  canal  is  carried 
in  a  stone  aqueduct  of  4  arches. 

Salina  is  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  Syracuse,  and 
though  not  on  the  usually  travelled  route  to  the  west, 
should  bo  visited  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  princi- 
pal spring,  and  the  various  salt  establishments  connected 
therewith. 


I  111 


♦•^/ 


•f 


SALINA. 


177 


The  spring  at  Salina  was  first  discovered  by  the  Indians 
many  yeara  since,  by  beinor  the  resort  of  deer  and  other 
animals.  The  first  white  settlers  were  in  the  habit  of 
boiling  the  wjitcr  in  small  vessels  for  domestic  purposes. 
Since  then  the  spring  has  been  excavated  to  a  very  con- 
siderable depth,  and  affords  the  strongest  saline  water  yet 
discovered  in  the  world,  40  gallons  yielding  about  a  bushel 
of  pure  salt.  The  water  is  forced  up  to  the  top  of  an  ad- 
joining hill  by  p.  powerful  hydraulian,  driven  by  the  Rur- 
plus  waters  of  the  Oswego  canal,  which  passes  through 
this  place.  The  salt  water  is  in  this  way  conveyed  85  feet 
above  the  canal  to  a  large  reservoir,  into  which  it  is  dis- 
charged at  the  rate  of  300  gallons  per  minute.  It  is 
hence  carried  to  the  different  factories  in  Salina  and  .Syra- 
cuse. Of  these  there  arc  witliin  a  circuit  of  seven  miles, 
175.  The  works  and  springs  all  belong  to  the  state,  to 
which  imposts  are  payable,  for  the  extinguishment  of  the 
canal  debt.  The  water  is  conveyed  from  the  reservoir  to 
the  different  manufactories  and  evaporating  fields,  by 
means  of  wooden  pipes.  The  salt  is  manufactured  gene- 
rally by  boiling  and  evaporation.  There  arc,  however, 
tv;o  establishments  in  which  it  is  made  in  large  wooden 
vats,  by  means  of  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large 
metallic  pipes.  The  springs  are  considered  inexhaust- 
ible ;  and  the  amount  of  salt  manufactured  at  Salina,  Liv- 
erpool, Syracuse  and  Geddes,  is  between  two  and  three 
millions  of  bushels  per  annum. 

Salina  is  a  flourishing  village,  but  of  less  magnitude 
than  Syracuse ;  though,  from  the  rapidly  increasing 
growth  of  both,  it  is  not  improbable  that  they  will  in 
time  become  a  continuous  town.     A  fine  view  of  the 


f*: 


■vt\. 


* 


ri' 


.:    fei- 


178 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  BTAOE  ROUTE. 


'):■  ■) 


;!,  'M 


i  ii 


111     # 


Ononda^  Lake,  about  a  mile  distant,  is  had  from  the 
place.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad.  At  its  north- 
western extremity  is  seen  the  pleasant  village  of  Liver- 
pool, at  which  the  manufacture  of  salt  is  also  carried  on 
to  considerable  extent. 

The  Oswego  canal,  from  Syracuse  to  Lake  Ontario 
at  Oswego,  is  38  miles  long,  including  20  miles  of  the 
•Oswego  river,  on  which  arc  several  locks  and  dams. 

[This  is  embraced  in  the  *'  Rail  road^  canal  and  steam, 
boat  route  to  Buffalo^^^  referred  to  at  p.  160,  and  more 
particularly  described  under  its  appropriate  head  in  a  sub- 
sequent part  of  this  work.] 

Pursuing  a  journey  still  farther  west,  the  Auburn  and 
Syracuse  Rail  Road  is  taken  at  the  latter  village.  It 
commences  at  the  depo*  he  Utica  and  Syracuse  road, 
and  passes  through  the  \  ^^a  of  Gcddes,  2  miles  distant, 
from  which  place  to  its  termination  at  Auburn,  26  miles 
farther,  the  excavations  and  embankments  are  unusually 
heavy.  At  a  point,  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  Syracuse, 
the  route  for  three  or  four  miles  is  around  the  side  of  a 
mountain  of  gypsum,  from  50  to  60  feet  above  its  base. 

Auburn  is  situated  on  the  Owasco  creek,  two  miles  be- 
low its  outlet  from  tlie  lake  of  the  same  name.  The  vil- 
lage, which  is  among  the  most  flourishing  in  the  state, 
owes  much  of  its  importance  to  the  numerous  mills  and 
manufactories  for  which  its  location  is  extremely  eligible. 
It  contains  about  850  houses  and  6000  inhabitants. 
Among  other  public  buildings  there  are  7  churches,  an 
academy,  museum,  2  banks,  a  court  house  and  gaol, 
and  a  prison  erected  for  convicts  at  the  expense  of  the 


biiii 


AUBURN. 


179 


state.  There  has  also  been  established  a  theological 
seminary,  which  is  patronized  exclusively  by  the  Presby- 
terian denomination,  and  is  at  present  tlic  only  one  of  the 
kind  in  tl;o  state.  Many  cirenmstances  combine  to  ren- 
d-T  this  place  an  ajrrccable  residence  to  the  man  of  taste 
or  business.  The  villaije  is  handsomely  built,  and  pos- 
sesses much  wealth  and  enterprize,  Tt  is  situated  7 
miles  from  Weed's  Port,  on  the  canal,  to  which  place 
Btaires  run  daily,  for  the  accommodation  of  passengers 
wishing  to  take  packet  boats  for  the  west. 

Principal  Hotels. — The  Auburn  House  and  Mer- 
chants' Exchange,  the  American  Hotel,  and  the  Western 
Exchanjre. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Auburn,  is  considered  one  of  the 
best  in  the  Union.  It  was  commenced  in  1816,  and  is 
constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a  hollow  square,  enclosed 
by  a  wall  2000  feet  in  extent,  being  500  feet  on  eacii  side. 
The  front  of  the  prison,  including  the  keeper's  dwelling, 
is  about  300  feet,  and  the  two  wings  extending  west,  arc 
240  feet  each.  The  north  wing  contains  solitary  cells 
and  a  hospital,  and  the  south  wing  is  divided  principally 
into  cells.  Between  these  is  a  grass  plot  with  gravel 
walks ;  to  the  west  of  which  is  the  interior  yard,  sur- 
rounded with  workshops,  forming  a  continued  range  of 
900  feet,  protected  by  a  massive  stone  wall.  The  prison 
being  erected  on  the  bank  of  the  Owasco,  water  power  is 
applied  in  many  cases,  to  great  advantage,  in  propelling 
machinery. 

The  most  interesting  period  for  witnessing  the  prisoners 

is  early  in  the  morning,  from  the  time  they  are  brought 

forth  to  labor  till  after  breakfast.    The  spectator  will  then 

p2 


il'}   !^ 


HI:  'h 


> 


180 


KAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTE. 


•!,!' 


II' 


''m 


m 


I'  i  ■ 


Nilik 


have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  the  prominent  fca. 
tures  of  the  order,  regularity  and  system  with  which 
every  thing  is  conducted.  lie  will  admire  the  precision 
with  which  the  rules  are  executed,  without  the  least  con- 
fusion,  noise,  or  even  comniaud.  The  convicts  silently 
marching  to  and  from  their  rest,  meals  and  labor,  at  pre- 
cise times,  moving  in  separate  corps,  in  single  file,  with  a 
slow  lock  step,  er^ct  posture,  keeping  exact  time,  with 
their  faces  inclined  towards  their  keepers,  (that  they  may 
detect  conversation,  of  which  none  is  ever  permitted,) 
all  give  to  the  ppeetator  somewhat  similar  feelings  to 
those  excited  by  a  military  funeral ;  and  to  the  convicts, 
impressions  not  entirely  dissimilar  to  those  of  culprits 
when  marching  to  the  gallows.  The  same  silence,  so- 
lemnity and  order,  in  a  good  degree,  pervades  every  busi- 
ness  and  department. 

In  addition  to  divine  service  in  the  chapel  of  the  prison 
every  Sabbath,  a  Sunday  school  has  been  establibhcd, 
superintended  by  iLe  students  of  the  theological  seminary, 
which  has  been  attenfJed  with  very  beneficial  effects. 

So  admirable  has  been  the  discipline  of  this  prison,  that 
a  large  proportion  of  the  convicts  discharged  have  be- 
come  honest,  industrious  men,  and  none  are  known  to 
have  become  corrupted  or  made  worse. 

The  Auburn  and  Rochester  Ra^l  Road,  which  is  in 
progress,  is  to  commence  at  the  terminating  point  of  the 
Auburn  and  Syracuse  road,  and  pass  through  the  villages 
of  Geneva  and  Canandaigua  to  Rochester,  a  distance  of 
80  miles.  Until  it  is  completed,  however,  the  route  will 
be  by  stage  as  heretofore. 


lo' 


h  'I  u 


CAYUGA — SiiNECA  FALLS. 


181 


1.  i'lf 


( 


Cayuga,  7  miles  west  of  Aubum,  is  a  small  villapo ; 
but  affords  a  beautiful  prospt  ct  of  the  Cayujja  lake,  and 
the  bridge  extendinjj  across,  wliirh  is  one  mile  and  eijjht 
rods  lorijr,  and  situate  within  2  miles  of  the  outlet.  This 
lake  is  38  miles  in  Icnjitli,  and  is  j,arierally  from  1  to  2 
mil'  s  in  breadth.  The  water  is  shallow,  but  of  sufficient 
depth  for  a  {jood  sized  steamboat,  which  plies  daily  be- 
tween the  bridge  and  Ithaca,  a  beautiful  and  thriving  vil. 


1 


the  h( 


h 


36 


ignmi 


lilcs  distant.  Travel- 
excursion  on  this  lake  to  Ithaca, 
should  })ay  fcr  stage  faro  no  farther  than  the  Cayuga 
Bridge.  From  this  point  they  can  take  the  steamboat  at 
1  o'clock  P.  31.  which  reaches  Tfhaea  ui  between  three 
and  four  hours  ;  where  the  best  of  accommodations  v.ill 
be  found  at  one  of  the  largest  public  houses  in  the  state. 
Passing  the  night  at  Ithaca,  the  daily  stage  can  be  taken 
the  next  morning,  after  breakfast,  for  Bath,  at  tin;  head 
of  the  Seneca  lake,  distant  about  22  miles,  reaching 
the  latter  place  in  time  for  the  steamboat  whieli  leaves  at 
noon  for  Geneva,  noticed  in  a  subseiiuent  page  ;  and  thus 
the  tour  of  both  lakes  be  performed,  and  a  full  view  of 
their  rich  scenery  had  in  the  short  space  of  thirty  hours. 

Senkca  Falls,  four  miles  west  of  Cayuga,  is  a  flour- 
ishing village,  located  on  the  banks  of  the  Seneca  river, 
which  here  falls  46  feet,  affording  important  manufactur- 
ing facilities.  The  village  has  attained  a  very  rapid 
growth  within  a  few  years.  It  contained  in  1836,  450 
dwelling  houses,  5  churches,  a  number  of  flouring  mills, 
and  about  4000  inhabitants.  In  addition  to  its  manufac- 
turing privileges,  a  canal  extends  to  the  Erie  canal  at 
Lakeport,  20  miles  distant,  which,  connected  with  tho 


J:J''*| 


^^fi,  ; 


i  - 


,i|4*f 


182 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE   KOUTE. 


'  1 


I   • 


i  % 


Ji 


river  at  the  villacfe,  affords  an  uninterrupted  water  com- 
munication from  Geneva  to  the  western  lakes  and  tho 
ocean.     Four  miles  farlJier,  is  the  handsome  villajEje  of 

Watf.rloo,  a  half  shire  lown  in  Scneea  county.  It 
contains  ahout  30!)  houses,  a  court  house  and  jail.  Tho 
village  is  principally  situate  on  the  northern  hank  of  tho 
Seneca  outlet,  which  here  prf)pela  several  mills.  Tho 
commencement  of  this  villap^e  was  in  181 G  ;  since  which 
it  has  become  a  plac^*  of  very  considerable  importance  j 
though  it  is  probably  destined  to  yield  in  magnitude  and 
business  to  its  rival  village  at  Seneca  Falls.  From  Wa. 
terloo  to 

Geneva,  7  miles  distant,  the  route  is  delightful,  cm- 
bracing  (a  part  of  the  way)  a  charming  ride  around  the 
north  end  of  the  Seneca  lake,  which  is  here  about  two 
miles  wide.  The  village  is  one  of  the  n\ost  elegant  in  the 
state  ;  and,  with  its  beautiful  scenery,  cannot  fail  of  call- 
ing forth  the  admiration  of  every  visitant.  It  is  located 
on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  tho  bank  of  which  be- 
ing lofty,  affords  an  enchanting  view  of  one  of  the  purest 
sheets  of  water  in  America.  The  number  of  private  and 
public  buildings  in  the  place  is  about  COO,  many  of  which 
are  very  handsome,  and  the  population  about  4000. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  college,  an  academy,  8 
churches  and  a  bank.  The  college  is  located  on  an  em- 
inence south  of  the  village,  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  in 
the  vicinity  of  several  country  seats,  enjoying  an  unusual 
richness  of  prospect,  with  an  almost  constant  breeze  from 
the  water.  The  lake  is  about  35  miles  long,  and  from  3 
to  4  miles  wide.  It  abounds  with  salmon,  trout  and 
other  fish,  and  is  never  closed  v.:th  ice.    A  steamboat 


f 


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SENSVA  LAKE. 


18$: 


runs  daily  from  Geneva  to  Jeffersonville,  at  the  head  of 
the  lake,  leaving  the  former  place  at  7  A.  M.,  and  re- 
turning  at  evening.*     The   ^^rie  canal  passes  about  12 

*  A  passasje  on  tlic  lake  is  peculiarly  delightful  and  in- 
teresting.    Leaving  Geneva  with  its  neat  stores,  and  ele- 
gant dwellings,  its  luxuriant  hanging  gardens,  and  the 
glittering  spires  of  its  churches  and  college,  the  eye  takes 
in  a  southern  water  view  not  surpassed  in  any  part  of  tliis 
world  of  inland  seas.     The  first  village  of  any  note  on  the 
eaftern  shore  is  Ovid,  18  milcH  from  (ieneva.     The  loftv 
cnjiricnce  on  which  it  stano  s  and  the  rich  and  highly  cul- 
tivated farms  in  its  vicinity,  render  it  a  niost  coiis|)icuous 
and   interesting   object.      Directly   opposite   to   Ovid   is 
Dresden,  one  of  the  most  thriving  villages  in  Yates  coun- 
ty.    It  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Crooked  Lake,  and 
extends  nearly  a  mile  back  of  the  shore.     Immediately 
south  of   Dresden,  is  the  faru.  of  the  late  celebrated  Je- 
mima  Wilk'nson,  an  (snthusiast,  who  pretended   that  she 
was  the  Saviour  of  mankind.     Until  her  death,  which 
took  place  some  years  since,  she  had  several  followers; 
and  this  farm,  which  is  very  beautiful,  has  passed  by  will 
into  the  liands  of  one  of  them.     Four  miles  south  of 
Dresden  is  Long  Point,  remarkable  for  a  tree  at  its  ex- 
tremity, which,  by  a  little  aid  from  the  imagination,  puts 
on  the  semblance  of  an  Elephant.     Six   miles  south  of 
Ijong  Point  is  Rapelyea's  ferry,  near  which  is  still  stand- 
ing the  frame  which  Jemima  constructed  to  try  the  faith 
of  her  followers.     Having  approached  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  the  lake  shore^  she  alighted  from  an  elegant 
carriage,  and  the   road  being  strewed  by   her  followers 
with  white  handkerchiefs,  she  walk«  d   to   the  platform, 
and   having  announced   her  intention  of  walking  across 
the  lake  on  the   water,  she  stepped  ankle  deep  into  the 
clear  element,  when  suddenly  pausing,  she  addressed  the 
multitude,  inquiring   whether  or  not  they  had  faith  that 
she  could  pass  over  :  for  if  otherwise,  she  could  not ;  and 
on  receiving  an  affirmative  answer,  returned  to  her  car- 
riage, declaring  that  as  they  believed  in  her  power,  it  was 
unnecessary  to  display  it.     Six  miles  and  a  half  south  of 


t.;,'^ 


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184 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  8TA0B  ROUTB. 


miles  to  the  north  of  Geneva ;  with  which  there  is  a 
water  communication,  by  means  of  the  outlet  of  the 
3encca  lake  and  a  lateral  canal. 

Canandaigua,  15  miles  from  Geneva.  This  village  is 
situated  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake  from  which  it  takes 
?.ts  name,  on  a  gentle  ascent  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  lake  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  The  principal 
fctrect  extends  2  miles  in  length,  and  is  handsomely  dec- 
orated with  trees,  through  which  appear  the  delicately 
painted  dwellings  and  court  yards.  In  an  open  Fquare,  in 
the  centre  of  the  village,  is  the  court  house,  prison  and 
clerk's  office  of  the  county,  the  town  house  and  Eagle 
Hotel.  There  are  also  four  churches,  a  superior  male 
academy  and  female  seminary,  a  bank,  and  about  500 
dwellings.  In  the  vicinity  are  a  number  of  delightfn 
villas,  surrounded  with  gardens  and  orchords,  which, 
with  the  view  of  the  lake  stretching  far  to  the  south, 
form  a  rich  and  varied  scenery  seldom  equalled  in  other 

Rapelyea's  ferry,  is  Starkic's  Point,  where  the  shore  is  so 
bold  that  the  steamboat  passes  within  10  feet  of  the  ex- 
tremity  of  the  Point.  Four  miles  further  on  the  west 
shore  is  the  Big  Stream  Point,,  at  which  there  is  a  mill 
seat  with  a  fall  of  136  feet.  The  land  puts  on  a  wilder 
aspect  as  the  tourist  approaches  the  head  of  the  lake,  and 
the  eminences  are  more  beetling  and  precipitous.  The 
eastern  shore  also  partakes  more  of  the  mountainous 
character,  though  cultivated  far  up  the  summit  lands,  and 
is  here  and  there  marked  by  ravines,  through  one  of 
'.vhich  "  Hector  Falls"  tumble  from  a  height  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet,  and  carry  several  valuable  mills. 
These  falls  are  distant  three  miles  from  the  village  of 
Jcfifersonvillc,  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 


WEST  BLOOMFIELD AVON  SPRING. 


185 


places.    The  principal  public  houses  in  the  village  are 
Blossom's  Hotel  and  Pitt's  Eajgrlc  Tavern. 

From  Canandai^ua,  stages  can  be  tak^n  for  Rochester, 
(sec  "Rail  Road  and  Canal  Route,")  28  miles  distant, 
in  a  northwesterly  direction,  and  the  route  continued 
thence  by  stajrc  over  the  "  Ridge  Road,"  to  the  Falls,  or 
by  cannl  to  Lockport,  and  by  rail  road  thence  to  the 
Falls  ;  or  the  rail  voad  from  Rochester  to  Rata  via,  32 
miles  long,  can  be  taken,  and  stages  from  the  latter  place 
to  Buffalo:  but  if  a  visit  to  .Montreal,  by  the  way  of 
Lake  Ontario,  is  not  contemplated,  it  is  generally  deemed 
a  better  course  to  proceed  directly  to  Buffalo  and  the 
Falls,  and  return  by  the  way  of  Rochester.  In  pursuing 
the  usual  route  from  Canandaigua  to  Buffalo, 

East  BLooMFiKLu  is  reached  in  travelling  9  miles,  and 
West  Bloomfikld  in  going  5  miles  farther.  They  are 
considered  amonjy  the  richest  agricultural  townships  in 
the  state  ;  presenting  a  succession  of  b(^autiful  and  highly 
cultivated  farms.  The  fruit  raised  on  these  lands,  par- 
ticularly apples  and  peaches,  is  not  excelled  in  any  section 
of  the  country. 

Lima  is  4  miles  from  West  Bloomfield,  and  is  a  contin- 
uation of  the  same  rich  and  fertile  soil,  divided  into  high- 
ly improved  and  productive  farms. 

East  Avon*  is  5,  and  Avo\  Post  Office  7  miles  from 
Lima.  The  Genesee  river  passes  through  the  town  of 
Avon,  and  is  navigable  for  boats  to  the  Erie  canal  at 
Rochester,  20  miles  distant. 

'Tlvi  Avon  Spring  is  becoming  a  place  of  considerable 
resort  for  invalids.     Its  waters,  which  are  strongly  im- 


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HAUL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTS. 


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pregnated  with  sulphur  and  alunif  are  found  beneficial  in 

■various  diseases. 

Cal?:donia,  8  miles  from  Avon  Post  Office,  is  more 
particularly  celebrated  as  the  location  of  a  large  Spring, 
than  for  any  thing  else.  The  stage  usually  stops  at  this 
village  long  enough  to  enable  passengers  to  visit  this  nat- 
■aral  curiosity,  which  is  situate  a  few  rods  north  of  the 
principal  street.  Within  a  small  area,  sufficient  water 
rises  to  propel  a  mill,  (of  which  there  are  several  on  the 
stream  below,)  at  all  seasons  of  tlie  year.  The  water  is 
pure,  and  appears  to  rise  from  a  rocky  bottom.  A  stage 
Tuns  daily  from  this  place  to  Rochester,  which  is  20  miles 
distant — a  part  of  the  route  being  along  the  bank  of  the 
Genesee  river. 

Pursuing  the  direct  route  from  Caledonia  to  Buffiilo, 
the  next  place  of  importance  is  the  pleasant  and  thriving 
village  of 

Leroy,  which  is  is  6  miles  west  of  Caledonia,  and  17 
miles  south  of  the  Erie  canal.  Allen's  creek,  which 
passes  througli  the  village,  affijrds  important  mill  privi- 
leges,  and  contributes  much  to  the  value  and  business  of 
the  place.  The  village  contains  300  dwellings,  2  large 
flouring  mills,  and  several  manufactories.  At  this  place 
the  creek  has  a  fall  of  18  feet ;  a  mile  farther,  one  of  27 
feet ;  and  about  a  mile  farther,  one  of  80  feet.  Before 
reaching  the  latter,  however,  the  stream  is  much  dimin- 
ished— suppyling,  as  is  supposed,  the  Caledonia  spring, 
already  noticed.  Numerous  petrifactions  have  been  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  about  200  yards  north  of  the  vil. 
lage  bridge  ;  among  which  are  petrified  turtles,  weighing 
rom  10  to  300  pounds      They  are  composed  principally 


BAT  A  VIA. 


187 


f 


of  dark  colored  bituminous  limestone,  which  is  easily 
split,  and  often  discovers  crystalline  veins,  together  with 
yellow  clay  or  ochre- 

Batavia  is  10  miles  from  Leroy.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Genesee  county ;  and  assumes  more  the  appearance  of 
one  of  the  early  settled  villagrcs  in  New-England,  than 
the  more  flourishing  villager  of  the  west.  It  is  situated 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Tonawanda  creek,  on  an  exten- 
sive  plain,  and  has  several  handsome  private  mansions. 
Besides  the  court  house  and  jail,  it  contains  a  bank,  the 
Holland  Company's  land  office,  and  about  300  dwel- 
lings.  The  Tonawanda  rail  road,  leading  from  Rochester, 
terminates  at  this  place. 

It  was  at  this  village  that  the  celebrated  William  Mor- 
gan had  his  residence  previous  to  his  abduction,  on  the 
frivolous  ground  of  having  revealed  the  secrets  of  mason- 
ry. He  was  conveyed  by  a  mob  to  Fort  Niagara,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Niagara  river,  from  whence  no  trace  of  him 
could  afterwards  be  discovered. 

After  leaving  Batavia  for  Buffalo,  the  country  soon  as- 
sumes a  less  populous  appearance ;  and  the  travelling  is 
renderci  unpleasant  from  the  extensive  causeways  which 
intervene,  consisting  of  logs  placed  transversely  in  the 
road. 

The  intervening  places  between  Batavia  and  Buffalo 
are  Pembroke,  14  miles — Clarence,  8 — Williamsville,  8 — 
from  which  to  Buffalo,  is  10  miles.  [For  a  description  of 
the  latter  place,  see  "  Rail  Road,  Canal  and  Steamboat 
Router] 


'ri  M 


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188 


BRIE  CANAL. 


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ERIE  CAft'AL. 

A  brief  description  of  this  work,  before  entering  upon 
the  route  which  embraces  a  portion  of  it,  will  probably 
prove  acceptable  to  the  tourist. 

Commencing  at  Albany,  on  the  Hudson,  the  canal 
passes  up  the  west  bank  of  the  river  nearly  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Mohawk  ;  thence  along  the  banks  of  the  latter  to 
Schenectady,  crossing  the  river  twice  by  aqueducts. 
From  Schenectady  it  follows  the  south  bank  of  the  Mo- 
hawk  until  it  reaches  Rome.  In  some  places  it  encroaches 
so  near  as  to  require  embankments  made  up  from  the 
river  to  support  it.  An  embankment  of  this  description, 
at  Amsterdam  village,  is  5  or  6  miles  in  extent.  What  is 
called  the  long  level,  being  a  distance  of  69  l-!2  miles 
without  an  intervening  lock,  commences  in  the  town  of 
Frankfort,  about  8  miles  east  of  Utica,  and  terminates 
three  fourths  of  a  mile  east  of  Syracuse ;  thence  the 
route  proceeds  35  miles  to  Lake  Port,  situated  on  the  east 
border  of  the  Cayuga  marshes,  3  miles  in  extent,  over 
which  to  the  great  embankment,  72  feet  in  height,  and 
near  2  miles  in  length,  is  a  distance  of  52  miles ;  thence 
8  1-2  miles  to  the  commencement  of  the  Genesee  level, 
extending  westward  to  Lockport,  nearly  parallel  with  the 
ridge  road,  65  miles.  Seven  miles  from  thence  to  Pen- 
dleton  village  the  canal  enters  Tonawanda  creek,  which 
it  follows  12  miles,  and  thence  following  the  east  side  of 
the  Niagara  river,  communicates  with  Lake  Erie  at  Buf- 
falo. The  whole  line  of  the  canal  from  Albany  to  Buffalo 
is  363  miles  in  length.    It  is  40  feet  wide  at  the  top,  28 


ERIE  CANAI. 


189 


at  the  bottom,  and  4  feet  deep.*  The  whole  rise  and  fall 
of  lockage  is  688  feet,  and  tlie  height  of  Lake  Eric  above 
the  Hudson  568  feet.  The  principal  aqueducts  arc,  one 
crossing  the  Genesee  river  at  Rochester,  804  feet  long  ; 
one  crossing  the  Mohawk  at  Little  Falls,  supported  by  3 
arches,  the  centre  of  70  feet,  and  those  on  each  side  of  50 
feet  chord  ;  and  two  crossing  the  Mohawk  river  near  Al- 
exander's bridge,  one  of  which  is  748  feet  and  the  other 
1188  feet  in  length.  To  the  main  canal  are  a  number  of 
side  cuts  or  lateral  canals  :  one  opposite  Troy,  connecting 
with  the  Hudson ;  one  at  LUica  to  Binghampton  (the 
Chenango  canal)  97  miles  long  ;  one  at  Syracuse,  a  mile 
and  a  half  long,  to  Salina  ;  one  from  Syracuse  to  <^''vvego, 
38  miles  long ;  one  at  Orville  ;  one  at  Chitteningo ;  one 
at  Lake  Port,  extending  to  the  Caytiga  lake,  5  miles,  and 
thence  to  the  Seneca  lake  at  Geneva,  a  distance  of 
15  miles;  and  one  at  Rochester,  2  miles  long,  which 
serves  the  double  purpose  of  a  navigable  leedcr  and  a 
mean  of  communication  for  boats  between  the  canal  and 
the  Genesee  river.  The  Ciiemung  canal,  extending  from 
the  head  waters  of  the  Seneca  lake  to  the  Chemung  riv- 
er, 18  miles  distant,  with  a  navigable  feeder  of  13  miles, 
from  Painted  Post  on  the  Chemung  river  to  the  summit 
level  of  the  canal ;  and  the  Crooked  lake  canal,  7  miles 


*  By  recent  acts  of  the  legislature,  the  canal  commis- 
sioners have  been  authorized  to  increase  the  dimensions 
of  the  canal  to  a  width  of  60  or  70  feet,  and  to  a  depth  of 
6  feet ;  and  to  double  the  locks ;  the  cost  of  which  will 
not  be  less  than  12  or  $15,000,000.  A  portion  of  the 
work  is  already  commenced,  especially  on  the  eastern  di- 
vision, together  with  a  new  aqueduct  over  the  Genesee 
river  at  Rochester. 


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190 


•ARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFFALO. 


long,  connecting  the  Seneca  and  Crooked  lakes,  have  al- 
BO  been  constructed — thus  extending  the  navigation,  com- 
prehending the  Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes,  146  miles. 

FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO   BUFFALO, 


By  rail  road  and  canal, 

Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
From  Saratoga  Sp'gs 
to   Syracuse,   (see 

p.  161,) 153 

By  canal. 

Geddes, 2  155 

Belisle, 4  159 

Nine-mile  creek,,,  1  160 

Camillus, ........  1   l6l 

Canton,,.,.,..,,.  5  166 

Peru, 2  168 

Jordan, 4  172 

Cold  Spring, 1  173 

Wcedsport, 5  178 

Centreport, 1  179 

Port  Byron, 2  181 

Montezuma,  Lake- 
port, 6  187 

Lockpit, 6  193 

Clyde, 5  198 

Lock  Berlin, 5  203 

Lyons, 4  207 

Lockville, 6  213 

Newark, .,,.  1  214 

Port  Gibson 3  217 

Palmyra, 5  222 

Macedonville, ....  4  226 
Wayneport,    ( Bar- 

rager's Basin,)..  3  229 
Perrinton,  (Lindel's 

Bridge,) 2  231 

Perrinton  Centre,,  2  233 


357  miles — Fare  $15. 


miles. 


Fairport, 1 

Fullani's  basin,, . .  1 

Bushnel's basin,, ,,  3 

Pittsford, 3 

Billinghast's  basin,  4 

Lock  No.  3, 2 

Rochester, . , ,  r . . ,  4 

Brockway's, 10 

Spencer's  basin,, ..  2 

Adam's  basin,. ...  3 

Coolev's  basin, ....  3 

Brockport, 2 

Holiey, 5 

Scio, 4 

Albion, ,.  6 

Gaines'  basin,,.,,  2 

Eagle  harbor,....  1 

Long  bridge, 2 

Knowlesville, 2 

Road  culvert, 1 

Medina 3 

Shelby  basin, 3 

Middleport, 3 

Reynolds'  basin, , .  3 

Gasport, 2 

Lockport, 7 

By  rail  road. 

Niagara  Falls, 20  335 

Tonawanda creek,,  10  345 

Black  Rock 9  354 

Buffalo,,... 3  357 


234 
235 
238 
241 
245 
247 
251 
261 
263 
266 
269 
271 
276 
280 
286 
289 
289 
291 
293 
294 
297 
300 
303 
306 
308 
315 


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GEDDES — I'ORT  BYRON. 


191 


234 
235 
238 
241 
245 
247 
251 
10  261 
2  263 
266 
26» 
271 
276 
280 
286 
2  289 

1  289 

2  291 

2  293 
1  294 

3  297 


3 
3 
3 

2 

7 


300 
303 

306 
308 
315 


20  335 

10  345 

9  354 

3  357 


The  route  to  Syracuse  has  been  already  described. 
(See  pp.  161  to  178.) 

Geddhs,  2  miles  by  canal  from  Syracuse,  is  becoming 
a  place  of  some  importance,  in  consequence  of  the  salt 
Borings  in  its  vicinity.  They  are  mostly  within  a  few 
rods  of  the  canal,  as  well  as  numerous  establishments  for 
the  manufacture  of  salt.  A  short  distance  west  of  the 
village,  a  fine  prospect  is  had  of  the  Onondaga  lake  and 
the  villages  of  Liverpool  and  Salina. 

Nine  Mile  Creek,  6  miles  from  Gcddcs.  It  is  a 
stream  of  some  magnitude,  and  is  crossed  by  the  canal, 
over  two  arches. 

Camillus,  1  mile. 

Canton,  a  small  village,  5  miles. 

PerU;  2  miles. 

Jordan.  4  miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  village, 
the  canal  crosses  the  Jordan  creek. 

Weed's  Port,  6  miles.  A  thriving  village  of  about 
120  houses.  A  stage  can  be  taken  here  daily  for  Auburn, 
7  miles  south. 

Centre  Point,  1  mile. 

Port  Bvron,  2  mi)es.  The  canal  here  crosses  the 
Owasco  creek,  a  fjtream  issuing  from  a  lake  of  that  name, 
two  miles  south  of  Auburn.  The  state  prison  is  erected 
on  the  bank  of  this  creek,  the  waters  of  which  are  used 
for  propelling  the  machinery. 

Five  miles  farther  are  the  Montezuma  salt  works, 
north  of  the  canal,  with  a  lateral  cut  leading  thereto ; 
one  mile  from  which  is  the  small  village  of 

r2 


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192 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  CANAL  ROUTE. 


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Lake  Port.  The  Avestcrn  section  of  tlie  canal  (contra- 
distinjruished  from  the  middle  and  eastern  sections)  com- 
mences  at  this  place.  From  Utica  to  Lake  Fort,  the 
mean  descent  of  the  canal  is  45  feet ;  and  there  are  9  locks, 
ascending  and  dcscendinjr.  From  Lake  Port  to  Lock- 
port  the  ascent  is  185  feet,  and  the  number  of  intervening 
locks  21.  Tiic  waters  of  the  canal  at  the  former  place 
are  remarkably  pure  and  crystalline  in  their  appearance, 
not  unfrequently  exhibiting  large  quantities  of  fish  at  their 
bottom. 

One  mile  from  Lake  Port,  the  canal  enters  the  Monte- 
zuma  marshes,  3  miles  in  extent.  They  are  formed  by 
the  outlets  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  lakes,  and  exhibit 
a  most  dreary,  desolate  and  stagnant  appearance.  The 
water  is  generally  from  4  to  8  feet  deep,  and  the  bottom 
covered  with  long  grass,  the  usual  growth  of  swamps, 
extending  frequently  to  the  surface.  A  long  bridge  is 
used  for  a  tow-path  over  a  part  of  these  marshes.  Shortly 
after  leaving  them,  the  canal  crosses  and  unites  with  the 
outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  lake,  a  sluggish  stream,  which, 
with  the  outlets  of  Cayuga  and  Seneca,  soon  form  the 
Seneca  river,  which  enters  and  constitutes  a  considerable 
part  of  the  Oswego  river. 

Cltde,  11  miles  from  Lake  Port,  is  a  flourishing  vil- 
lage, containing  glass  works.  From  thence  to  Lyons,  a 
handsome  village,  containing  a  court  house,  jail,  bank, 
and  about  250  dwelhngs,  is  9  miles  ;  and  thence  to 
LocKviLLE  6  miles,  to  Newark  1  mile,  and  to  Port  Gib- 
son, 3  miles. 

Palmyra,  8  miles  farther,  is  a  thriving  village  in  Wayne 
county.    It  is  built  chiefly  on  a  wide  street,  along  the 


mt: 


ROCHrSTER. 


193 


south  bank  of  the  canal,  and  contains  between  2  and  300 
dwellings.  Mud  creek  runs  eastward  about  40  rods 
ncr!,hotthc  main  street,  and  the  canal  pasi^es  between 
the  creek  and  the  street.  There  arc  several  factories 
and  mills  on  this  creek.  Palmyra  and  Port  Gibson  are 
landing  places  for  goods  designed  for  Canandaigua. 

Fair  Port,  11  miles. 

Fullom's  Basin,  12  miles.  From  this  place  to  Roch- 
ester,  by  canal,  is  IG  mile  ;  while  the  distance  by  land  is 
but  7  1-2.  Travellers,  accordingly,  who  have  seen  the 
Great  Emhankment  over  the  Irondequoit  creek,  frequent- 
ly take  a  stage,  to  shorten  the  excursion  ;  but  those  who 
have  never  passed  over  this  artificial  work,  should  con- 
tinue on  the  canal  route.  The  embankment  is  reached  in 
about  4  miles  from  Fullom's  Basin,  and  is  continued  for 
nearly  two  miles,  at  an  average  height  of  about  70  feet. 
Tlie  novelty  of  a  passage  at  so  great  an  elevation  is  much 
increased  in  the  fine  prospect  afforded  of  the  surround-ng 
country.  Two  miles  from  the  embankment  is  the  hand- 
some  village  of 

PiTTSFORD,  ccntaining  about  lOO  houses  rnd  several 
stores ;  and  10  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  and  impor- 
tant city  of 

ROCHESTER.* 

It  is  situated  on  the  east  and  west  side  of  the  Genesee 
river,  which,  at  this  place  is  50  yards  wide,  and  is  crossed 
by  two  substantial  bridges  within  the  limits  of  the  city. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  lower  bridge,  the  local  distinc- 


*  For  a  descriptioii  of  Rochester  and  the  surrounding 
country,  the  editor  is  principally  indebted  to  Lyman  B. 
Langworthv,  Esq.  of  that  place. 


ti 


194 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  CANAL  ROUTE. 


i  i"  ii 


i],      :i        .     iill 


tions  of  East  and  West  Rochester  have  been  in  a  meas- 
ure  annihilated,  by  the  erection  of  the  Market  and  Ex- 
change  buildings  over  the  Genesc"  making  the  twain  a 
continued  town.  Within  its  \\r  .ro  two  of  the  six  falls 
on  the  rive-;  the  upper  a  small  lall  of  \'2  feet  at  the  foot 
of  the  rapids,  and  immediately  above  the  canal  aqueduct; 
and  the  other,  the  great  fall  of  97  fcot,  about  80  rods  below. 
From  a  po'nt  of  rock  above  the  centre  of  these  falls,  at 
the  foot  of  a  small  island,  the  celebrated  Sam  Patch 
made  his  last  and  I'atal  leap  in  the  autumn  of  1829. 

From  a  complete  wilderness,  Rochester  has  been  re- 
deemed  in  the  comparatively  short  period  of  about  28 
years,  the  first  settlement  haviniir  been  made  in  1812.  Its 
situation  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  canal,  and  only 
7  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  with  a  ship  navigation  within 
two  miles  of  the  town,  and  a  rail  road  connected  with 
the  Erie  canal  at  the  cast  end  of  the  aqueduct,  enable  its 
inhabitants  to  select  a  market  either  at  New-York,  Que- 
bec, or  on  the  borders  of  the  great  western  lakes  ;  and 
the  many  other  natural  advantages  which  it  enjoys  for 
trade  and  manufactures,  destines  it  to  become  one  of  the 
most  important  places  in  the  interior  of  the  state.  The 
population  of  Rochester  in  1835,  was  14,404;  and  its 
pr^..ent  population  cannot  be  less  than  18,000.  The  Erie 
canal  strikes  the  river  in  the  south  part  of  the  city,  and 
after  following  the  eastern  bank  for  half  a  mile,  crosses 
the  river  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  in  an  aqueduct  804  feet 
long,  which  cost  ^80,000.*     The  canal  is  supplied  by  a 

*  The  new  aqueduct,  now  constructing,  is  to  be  com. 
posed  of  limestone  from  the  Onondaga  quarries,  to  be 
much  increased  in  its  dimensions,  and  to  cost  about 
^500,000. 


i 


•■     IF 


a  mca?- 
ind  Ex- 

twain  a 

six  falls 

Ihc  foot. 

juctluct; 

is  below. 

falls,  at 

n  Patch 

29. 

been  re- 
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812.  Its 
and  only 
m  within 
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lied  by  a 

be  com* 

[s,   to  be 
1st  about 


V 


ROCHESTER. 


*• 


195 


navigable  feeder  from  the  Genesee,  which  it  enters  with- 
in the  limits  of  the  city,  and  throufjh  which  boats  may 
enter  and  ascend  the  river  from  70  to  90  miles.*  The 
height  of  the  canal  at  Rochester  above  the  tide  waters  of 
the  Hudson  is  501  feet ;  above  Lake  Ontario,  270  feet ; 
and  below  Lake  Erie,  G4  feet. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  city,  are  a  court 
house,  15  churches,  3  markets,  4  banks,  (one  of  w*>ich  if 
very  splendid)  and  a  museum,  together  with  two  valuable 
institutions,  the  Franklin  Institute  and  Atheneum.  There 
are  also  several  extensive  cotton  and  woollen  manufacto- 
ries, together  with  various  operations  in  iron  and  wood, 
suited  to  Ihc  wants  of  a  great  and  growing  country.  The 
Globe  Buildings,  a  majestic  pile,  rising  from  the  watcr'i 
edge,  5  stories,  exclusive  of  attics,  with  between  130  and 
140  apartments,  suitable  for  workshops",  and  sevt  al  stores, 
were  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  winter  of  1834,  and  rebuilt 
the  following  year.  The  principal  public  houses  are  the 
Rochester  House,  Clinton  House,  Eagle  Tavern,  Man- 
sion House,  Arcade  House,  Monroe  House,  and  City 
Hotel.  There  are  also  two  daily  and  several  weekly 
newspapers. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  city  are  more  than  20  flouring 
mills,  containing  nearly  100  run  of  stones,  capable  of 
manufacturing  more  than  5000  barrels  of  flour,  and  con- 
suming more   than  20,000  bushels  of  wheat  every  24 

*  The  Genessee  Valley  canal,  now  constructing,  is  to 
extend  from  Rochester  to  Olean  Point  on  the  Alleghany 
river,  about  100  miles  in  a  southerly  direction ;  a  con- 
siderable jifoportion  of  which  will  consist  of  slack  water 
in  the  Genesee  river,  by  means  of  locks  and  dams. 


I 


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196 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  CANAL  ROUTK. 


m\^^* 


hours.  Some  of  the  mills  are  on  a  ecale  of  magnitude 
perhaps  not  rqualird  in  the  world.  One  of  them  contains 
more  than  four  acrcB  of  floorings,  and  all  are  considered 
unrivalled  in  the  perfection  of  their  machinery.  Indeed, 
BO  powerful  and  complete  is  the  whole  ftoarin^  ai)paratU8, 
that  there  are  several  Binprle  run  of  stones  which  fjrind, 
and  the  machinery  connected  therewith,  bolt  and  pack 
lOu  barrels  of  flour  per  day. 

The  Arcadk  is  100  feet  in  front,  135  feet  in  dcptli, 
and  four  stories  high,  exclusive  of  the  attic  and  basement. 
It  has  6  stores  in  front,  with  a  large  opening  for  a  pas- 
sage to  the  Arcade^  where  the  j)ost  office,  Athcni;urn,  Ar- 
cade  House,  and  a  variety  of  offices  are  located.  From 
the  centre  arises  an  observatory  in  the  form  of  a  Chinese 
Pagoda,  which  overlooks  the  surrounding  country;  and 
in  clear  weather  the  lake  can  be  seen  like  a  strip  of  blue 
cloud  in  t.ic  horizon. 

The  ToNAWANDA  Rail  Road,  from  Rochester  to  Ba- 
tavia,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  has  already  been  no- 
ticed at  pages  159  and  187.  It  is  over  a  remarkably  lev- 
cl  country,  requiring  but  slight  acclivities,  and  consists 
of  a  single  track  only,  with  occasional  turn-outs.  The 
time  employed  in  going  over  the  road,  32  miles  in  extent, 
is  about  two  hours — fare  ^  1 ,50. 

Stages  leave  Rochester  daily  for  Niagara  Falls,  81 
miles  distant,  by  way  of  Lewiston,  passing  over  the  ridge 
road  ;*  and  the  rail  road  and  stage  hr^e  can  be  taken 
twice  a  day  for  Buffalo,  by  way  of  Batavia,  72  miles. 

*  The  ridge  road  commences  two  and  a  half  miles 
from  Rochester,  over  which  and  the  rail  roads,  the  fol- 


CARTUAOE. 


197 


"Packft  Boats  also  leavo  Rochester  twice  a  day  for 
Buffalo  and  Syracuse. 

The  Lak(!  ( )ntario  Stkam. Boats  touching  at  Carthage, 
two  miles  helow  Rochester,  can  also  bo  taken  daily  for 
Lcwiston  and  Quccnston,  on  the  Niagara  river,  and  for 
Ogdciisburgh  and  Prescott,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  well 
as  the  intornriediato  ports  on  the  lake. 

Before  leaving  Rochester,  (unless  the  ridge  road  or 
steamboat  route  should  be  taken,)  the  traveller  will  find 
it  an  object  of  interest  to  visit 

Cartuaok,  2  miles  down  the  Genesee  river.  This  vil- 
lage  derived  its  consequence  from  a  stupenilous  brid^^e, 
which,  during  its  existence,  formed  the  most  eligible  route 
to  the  western  part  of  the  state.  The  bridge  was  erected 
across  the  river  just  below  the  basin  of  the  falls,  which 
are  70  feet.  It  consisted  of  a  single  arch,  whose  chord 
measured  300  feet.  The  distance  from  the  centre  to  chc 
river  was  250  feet.  This  stupendous  fabric  stood  a  short 
time  after  its  construction,  but  at  length  fell  under  the 
pressure  of  its  own  weight.  One  of  the  abutments  is  stiil 
standing ;  and  from  its  situation,  visitants  may  judge  of 
the  former  position  of  the  bridge,  and  tiro  almost  impious 
presumption  of  man  in  attempting  to  overcome  height, 
space,  gravity,  and  the  resistless  fury  of  the  elements. 
Vessels  from  the  lake,  5  miles  distant,  ascend  the  riv- 
er to  these  falls,  where  they  arc  laden  and  unladen  by 

lowing  arc  the  intervening  distances  between  that  place 
and  Buffalo  ;  Rail  road — Carthage  Falls  2  miles.  Ridge 
road — Parma  9,  Clarkson  7,  Murray  7,  Ridgcway  15, 
Hartland  10,  Cambria  12,  Lewistoii  12.  Railroad — Ni- 
agara Falls  7,  Buffalo  22. 


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198 


RAIL  ROAD  AND  CANAL  ROUTB. 


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Srlf 


means  of  an  inclined  plane — the  descending  weight  being 
made  to  raisa  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior  gravity. 

A  rail  road  from  Rochester  ends  here,  and  is  connected 
with  the  navigation  of  the  Lake — the  carriages  both  for 
passengers  and  for  burthen  passing  up  and  down  every 
half  hour. 

The  great  western  level  on  the  canal  commences  two 
miles  east  of  Rochester  ;  from  which  place  to  Lockpcrt,  a 
distance  of  G5  miles,  there  is  no  lock. 

Brockwavs's  Basin  is  10  miles  from  Rochester  ; 
thence  to  Spencer's  Basix,  a  small  village,  is  2  miles. 
Adam's  Basin  is  3  miles  farther;  thence  o  Cooley's 
Basin  is  3  miles,  and  to 

BiiocKPORT,  Smiles.  Tl  is  is  a  fine,  thriving  village, 
containing  between  2  and  300  houses,  and  about  2500  in- 
habitants, 12  or  14  respectable  stores,  3  churches,  a  semi- 
nary of  learning,  and  all  the  other  concomitants  of  a  neat 
and  industrious  town.  At  this  place  are  annually  pur- 
chased from  4  to  500,000  bushels  of  wheat  for  the  Ro- 
chester mills.  *  -<■ 

HoLLEY,  a  beautiful  and  thriving  little  village,  5  miles. 
A  short  distance  east  of  the  village  is  the  Holley  Em- 
bankment and  culvert,  over  Sandy  creek,  elevating  the 
canal  87  feet  above  the  level  of  the  creek. 

Scio,  4  miles. 

Albion,  10  miles;  a  pleasant  and  improving  village, 
with  a  bank,  court  house,  jail,  230  dwellings,  and  about 
2000  inhabitants.  It  has  some  mill  privileges,  and  is  sur- 
rounded  by  a  fine  agricultural  country.  Eight  miles 
farther,  in  the  town  of  Ridgeway,   a  public  road  passe« 


•^ 


>>*.> 


it  being 

• 

nnccted 
both  for 
'^n  every 

ices  two 
ckpcrt,  a 

jchester  ; 

2  miles. 

Cooley's 

g  village, 
t  2500  in. 
s,  a  semi" 


of  a  neat 


iially  pur. 
the  Ro. 


3,  5  miles. 
)lley  Em- 


'ating 


the 


ig  village, 

land  about 

land  is  sur- 

ght  miles 

»ad  passe? 


ME  DIN  A — LOCKPORT. 


199 


under  the  canal,  through  a  handsome  arch ;  one  mile 
from  which  is  the  village  of 

Medina,  on  the  bank  of  Oak  Orchard  creek.  It  con- 
tains about  250  dwellings  and  2000  inhabitants,  who  de- 
rive  much  advantage  from  the  water  privileges  aftbrdcd 
by  the  creek,  and  from  the  rich  and  fertile  country  in  the 
vicinity.  The  canal  here  crosses  the  creek  over  the 
largest  arch  on  the  whole  route.  There  are  circular  steps 
leading  to  the  bottom ;  v.'hencc  is  a  foot  path  passing 
underneath  and  leading  to  the  village.  Passengers  desi- 
rous of  seeing  this  artificial  work,  should  go  ashore  before 
reaching  it,  and  gain  time  by  a  rapid  walk.  They  can 
be  received  on  board  again  at  the  village,  where  the  boat 
stops  to  land  and  receive  passengers. 

M iDDLEPORT,  6  miles. 

Gasport,  5  miles.  It  derives  its  name  from  in  inflam- 
mable spring,  which  rises  in  the  canal  basin  at  the  village. 

LocKFORT,  7  miles.  By  far  the  most  gigantic  works 
on  the  whole  line  of  the  canal  are  at  this  place.  After 
travelling  between  60  and  70  miles  on  a  perfect  level,  the 
traveller  here  strikes  the  foot  of  the  "  Mountain  Ridge," 
which  is  surmounted  by  5  magnificent  locks  of  12  feet 
each,  connected  with  5  more  of  equal  dimensions  for  de- 
scending — so  that  while  one  boat  is  raised  to  an  elevation 
of  60  feet,  another  is  seen  sinking  into  the  broad  basin 
belov,'.  The  locks  are  of  the  finest  workmanship,  with 
stone  steps  in  the  centre  and  on  either  side,  guarded  with 
iron  railings,  for  the  safety  and  convenience  of  passengers. 
Added  to  this  stupendous  work,  an  excavation  is  contin- 
ued through  the  mountain  ridge,  composed  of  rock,  a 

s 


'IN 

■4l 


■>Aik 


200 


LOCKPORT. 


"lif! 


distance  of  3  miles,  at  an  average  depth  of  20  feet,  and 
under  the  enlarged  plan  is  to  be  increased  to  a  width  of 
60  or  70  feet. 

The  village  of  Lockport  is  partly  located  on  the  moun- 
tain ridge,  immediately  above  the  locks,  and  partly  below ; 
and  though  "  founded  on  a  rock,"  surrounded  with  rocks, 
and  with  little  or  no  soil,  it  has  become  a  place  of  much 
importance.  In  1821,  there  were  but  two  houses  in  the 
place  ;  now  there  are  300,  and  upwards  of  3000  inhabit, 
ants.  The  village  also  contains  7  churches,  a  bank, 
court  house  and  jail,  and  several  commodious  public 
houses.  The  canal  here  being  on  the  highest  summit 
level,  and  supplied  with  water  from  Lake  Erie,  (distant 
30  miles,)  an  abundance  is  obtained  for  hydraulic  pur- 
poses, affording  to  the  village  a  lasting  and  permanent 
power  for  mills  and  manufactories  of  various  kinds. 

A  RAIL  ROAD  is  hcrc  taken,  which  extends  to  Niagara 
Falls,  20  miles ;  and  from  thence  to  Buffalo,  22  miles 
farther. 

[These  places  are  described  in  subsequent  pages.] 


U  i 


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W'lri 


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yti' 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFFALO. 


201 


FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO   BUFFALO, 

By  railroad,  canal  and  steamboat ^  369  miles — Fare  $15. 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
To  Syracuse,  as  men 
tionedatp.  161,., 
By  canal. 
From  Syracuse  to 

Salina, 2  155 

Liverpool, 3 

Cold  Spring, 3 

New  Bridge, 5 

Three  Rivers  Pt.,  .     2 

Phopnix, 2 

Sweet's  Lock, ....     3 


153 


158 
161 
166 
168 
170 
173 


Miles. 

Fulton, 4  180 

Braddock's  Rapid,    4  184 
Tiifany's  Landing,     4  188 

High  Dam, 1  189 

Oswego, 2  191 

By  steamboat. 
Great  Sodus  Bay,.  28  219 
Genesee  river,. ...  35  254 
Fort  Niagara,....  74  328 
Lewiston, 7  335 

By  rail  road. 

Niagara  Falls,....     7  342 

Buffalo, 22  369 


Ox  creek, 3  176 

For  a  description  of  the  route  to  Syracuse,  see  pp.  161 
to  178. 

A  packet  boat  leaves  Syracuse  twice  a  day  for  Oswego, 
reaching  the  latter  place  in  about  10  hours.  The  villages 
of  Salina  and  Liverpool,  through  which  the  canal 
passes,  were  noticed  at  pp.  176,  177  and  178. 

Fulton,  20  miles  from  Liverpool,  is  a  flourishing  place, 
containing  a  number  of  mills,  for  which  an  extensive  wa- 
ter power  is  afforded  in  a  fall  of  the  Oswego  river. 

Oswego,  11  miles  farther,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  Oswego  river  at  its  entrance  into  Lake 
Ontario,  which  is  here  60  miles  wide.  A  bridge  connects 
the  two  parts  of  the  village,  and  the  streets  which  are 
wide  and  laid  out  at  right  angles,  extend  in  a  parallel  line 
from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other.  The  village  owes 
much  of  its  importance,  not  only  to  the  numerous  mills 


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202    RAIL  ROAD,  CANAL  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTB. 

and  manufactories  for  which  its  location  is  extremely  eli- 
gible,  being  unsurpassed  by  any  place  in  the  country  for 
hydraulic  power,  but  also  to  the  extensive  commcioial  in. 
tercourse,  by  means  of  the  lake,  which  it  has  with  the 
Canadas  and  the  west. 

The  surplus  waters  of  the  canal,  by  an  arrangement 
with  the  state,  belong  to  the  Oswego  Canal  Company, 
who,  by  a  subsidiary  canal,  on  thb  east  side  of  the  river, 
have  conveyed  them  to  the  village,  where  they  have  a  fall 
of  19  feet,  and  propel  a  great  number  of  mills.  Mr.  Abra- 
ham Varick,  the  owner  of  an  extensive  property  at  this 
place,  has  also  constructed,  at  great  expense,  a  canal  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  affording  a  similar  fall,  and 
equally  important  facilities  for  mills  and  manufactories. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  river,  jutting  into  the  lake,  the 
U.  S.  government  have  erected  a  pier  or  mole  at  the  ex- 
pense of  »*^200,000,  rendering  the  harbor  the  safest  and 
best  on  the  American  shore. 

Among  the  public  buildings  '.n.  the  village,  are  a  court 
house,  6  churches,  2  banks,  and  an  academy.  The  pop- 
ulation is  about  6000. 

The  Welland  House  is  one  of  the  largest  and  1  ist 
pubhc  establishments  in  the  state.  From  its  upper  story 
an  extensive  and  uninterrupted  view  is  had  of  the  lake, 
which  is  here  60  miles  broad.  The  Oswego  Hotel  is  also 
a  large  and  respectable  establishment. 

There  is  still  pointed  out  to  the  tourist,  the  remains  of 
two  forts  erected  during  the  French  war,  which  were  be- 
sieged by  Gen.  Montcalm  in  1756,  and  also  one  built 
during  the  revolution. 


4 


LAKE  OXTARIO. 


203 


The  STEAMBOATS  which  ply  between  Oswego  and  the 
Falls,  arc  of  the  best  class,  fitted  up  in  superior  style,  and 
afford  to  passengers  every  desirable  comfort  and  conven- 
ience.  They  leave  the  port  soon  after  the  arrival  of  the 
canal  packets,  and  reacli  Lewiston  in  about  12  hours ; 
whence  rail  road  carriages  arc  taken  for  Niagara  Falls,  7 
miles  distant,  and  for  Buffalo,  22  miles  farther. 

LAKE  ONTARIO, 

On  which  the  boat  enters,  after  leaving  the  Oswego 
river,  is  171  miles  long,  and  1G7  in  circumference.  Ip 
many  places  its  depth  has  not  been  ascertained.  In  the 
middle  a  line  of  350  fathoms  h?  i  been  let  down  without 
finding  bottom.  Of  the  many  islands  which  this  lake 
contains,  the  principal  is  Grand  Isle,  in  a  northeast  direc- 
tion  from  Oswego,  and  opposite  Kingston.  At  this  place 
the  lake  is  about  10  miles  in  width,  and  thence  easterly, 
it  gradually  contracts  until  it  reaches  Brockville,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  50  miles,  where  its  width  is  not  ovor  2 
miles.  About  40  miles  of  this  distance  is  filled  with  a 
continued  cluster  of  small  islands,  which,  from  their  num- 
ber, have  been  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  Thousand 
Islands. 

Though  inferior  in  extent  to  the  remaining  four  great 
western  lakes,  Ontario  is  far  from  being  the  least  inter- 
esting. The  northeast  shore  consists  principally  of  low 
land,  and  is  in  many  places  marshy.  On  the  north  and 
nortliwest  it  is  moie  elevated,  and  gradually  subsides  to- 
wards the  south.  The  margin  of  the  lake  is  generally 
bordered  by  thick  forests,  through  which  are  occasionally 
seen  little  settlements  surrounded  with  rich  fields  of  culti- 

s2 


..A_ 


i' 


^  < 


204     RAIL  ROAD,  CANAL.  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE. 

vation,  terminated  by  lofty  ridges  of  land  here  and  there 
assuming  the  character  of  mountnins.  Some  of  the  high- 
est  elevations  of  land  are  the  clitls  of  Toronto,  the  Devil's 
Nose,  and  the  Fifty  Mile  Hill.  The  principal  rivers 
which  empty  into  the  lake  on  the  south,  arc  the  Genesee 
and  Oswego.  York,  (now  Toronto,)  Kingston  and  Sack- 
ett's  Harbor,  all  situated  on  its  borders,  are  well  known 
in  connection  with  the  history  of  the  last  war. 

Great  Sodus  Bay,  28  miles  from  Oswego,  embraces 
East  Port  and  Little  Sodus  Bays,  and  has  three  islands 
of  considerable  size.  The  whole  circumference  of  the 
bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is  about  15  miles. 

Charlotte,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  35  miles 
farther,  is  a  port  of  entry,  where  there  is  a  light  house, 
and  the  commencement  '^f  extensive  piers  building  by  the 
United  States,  for  improving  the  navigation.  The  river 
is  navigable  to  the  Carthage  falls,  4  miles ;  thence  to 
Rochester  is  2  miles ;  to  which  place  passengers  can  al- 
ways be  conveyed  by  rail  road  carriages  in  readiness  on 
the  arrival  of  the  boat.     (See  pp.  193  to  198.) 

Fort  Niagara,*  74  miles  farther,  is  located  on  the  east 
or  American  shoro  of  the  Niagara  river,  at  its  entrance 
into  Lake  Ontario.  It  was  built  by  the  French  in  1725, 
passed  into  British  hands  by  the  conquest  of  Canada,  and 
was  surrendered  to  the  United  States  in  1796.  It  was 
taken  by  the  British  by  surprise  during  the  last  war,  and 
abandoned  on  the  restoration  of  peace.  The  works  are 
now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

*  This  is  the  place  where  the  celebrated  William  Mor- 
gan was  confined  after  his  abduction. 


,  V 


For 

village 

followc 

Americ 

village, 

ject  of 

preserv; 

pied  as 

You? 
Niagara 

Lewi 

sage,  is 

it  was  I; 

by  its  in 

but  it  is 

exhibit  i 

between 

boat  is  cj 

rapidity, 

firms  the 

poured  tl 

abrasion 

sition,  7 

QuEEi> 

in  its  apf 

TheB 

place,  oci 
Renssela( 
Lewiston, 
sion  of  ^ 


M 


LEWISTON — QUEENSTON. 


205 


Fort  George,  or  Newark,  is  directly  opposite.  The 
village  was  burnt  during  the  last  war ;  which  event  was 
followed  by  the  burning  of  several  frontier  villages  on  the 
American  shore,  as  retaliatory.  Fort  George,  near  the 
village,  is  the  most  prominent,  and  perhaps  the  only  ob- 
ject of  interest  presented.  It  is  in  ,a  state  of  tolerable 
preservation,  and  has  generally  since  the  war  been  occu- 
pied as  a  garrison  by  a  small  number  of  soldiers. 

YouNGSTOWN,  a  small  village,  is  one  mile  south  of  Fort 
Niagara,  on  the  American  side ;  from  which  to 

Lewiston,  the  terminating  point  of  the  steamboat  pas- 
sage, is  6  miles  farther.  With  the  other  frontier  villages, 
it  was  laid  in  ruins  during  the  last  war,  and  was  deserted 
by  its  inhabitants,  from  December,  1813,  to  April,  1815  ; 
but  it  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and  its  buildings 
exhibit  much  taste  and  neatness.  A  ferry  is  established 
between  this  place  and  Queenston,  in  crossing  which,  the 
boat  is  carried  down  for  a  considerable  distance  with  much 
rapidity,  but  without  danger.  Every  appearance  con- 
firms the  supposition,  that  at  this  place  the  falls  once 
poured  their  immense  volumes  of  water,  but  by  a  constant 
abrasion  of  the  cataract,  have  receded  to  tlicir  present  po- 
sition, 7  miles  distant. 

Queenston  contains  50  or  60  dwellings,  but  has  little 
in  its  appearance  .'ndicating  a  prosperous  thriving  vUlage. 

The  Battle  of  Queenston,  which  was  fought  at  this 
place,  occurred  on  the  13th  of  October,  1812.  Gen.  Van 
Rensselaer,  who  had  command  of  the  American  troops  at 
Lewiston,  determined  on  crossing  over  and  taking  posses- 
sion of  Queenston  heights.    The  crossing  was  effected 


ti' 


:|' 


m 

m 

m'h: 


l\ 


>;'•  |i: " 


li' 


'.■,(     iF 


^i^ 


206 


tirock's  monument. 


before  day  light ;  and  the  ascent,  which  was  up  a  precip- 
itous ravine,  risinj^  near  300  feet  above  the  river,  was  ac- 
complished amid  the  fire  of  the  enemy  from  his  breast, 
works  on  the  heights.  As  the  Americans  approached, 
the  British  retreated  to  the  village  below ;  where  their 
commandant,  Gen.  Brock,  in  forming  his  lines  to  reascend 
the  heights,  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  random  shot. 
His  aid.  Col.  M'Donald,  then  took  command  and  ascend- 
ed the  heights,  where  he  was  also  wounded  mortally. 
The  Americans  continued  in  possession  but  a  few  hours, 
when  they  recrossed  the  river.  The  pickets  and  breast- 
works, though  in  a  state  of  decay,  are  still  visible. 

The  spot  on  which  Brock  fell  is  pointed  out  to  stran- 
gers. It  was  in  a  vacant  lot  in  the  village,  since  called 
Brock's  lot. 

brock's  MONUMiJNT 

Is  on  the  heights,  one  fourth  of  a  mile  southwest  of  the 
village.  It  is  composed  of  free  stone ;  and,  excepting  the 
base,  is  of  a  spiral  form.  It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  archi- 
tecture, and  from  its  elevation,  is  seen  for  many  miles 
around.  Its  height  is  126  feet ;  and  the  heights  on  which 
it  is  erected  are  270  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Niagara 
river.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  monument  is  by 
means  of  winding  steps,  170  in  number.  It  is  extremely 
fatiguing ;  but  the  prospect  afforded  of  the  surrounding 
country,  for  50  miles  in  extent,  will  richly  repay  the  tour- 
ist for  the  time  and  trouble  in  visiting  this  pinnacle.  The 
following  inscription  appears  on  the  monument : 

"  The  Legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated  this 
monument  to  the  many  civil  and  military  services  of  the 


. 


r 


►recip- 
as  ac 
)reast- 
ichcd, 
)  their 
iscend 
1  shot, 
.scond- 
Drtally. 
hours, 
brcast- 

►  stran- 
)  called 


t  of  the 
,ing  the 
if  archi- 
miles 
1  which 
•Jiagara 
t  is  by 
rcmely 
unding 
,e  tour- 
The 

ted  this 
of  the 


RIDGE   ROAD. 


207 


late  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  Knight,  Commander  of  the  most 
honorable  Order  of  the  Batli,  Provincial  Lieut.  Governor 
and  Major  General,  commandin<r  his  Majesty's  forces 
therein.  He  fell  in  action  on  the  13th  of  October, 
1812,  honored  and  beloved  by  those  whom  ho  jroverned., 
and  deplored  by  his  Sovereign,  to  v.'hosu  services  his  life 
had  been  devoted.  His  remains  are  deposited  in  this 
vault,  as  also  his  aid-de-camp,  Lieut.  Col.  John  M'Don- 
ALD,  who  died  of  his  wounds  the  14th  of  October,  1812, 
received  the  day  before  in  action." 

Stages  leave  Lewiston  every  morning  for  Rochester, 
distant  80  miles,  passing  on  the  Ridge  Road,  or  alluvial 
way,*  and  reach  Rochester  at  evening.  A  rail  road  is 
also  constructed  to  the  Falls ;  but  owing  to  the  ascent  to 
be  overcome  in  the  first  two  miles,  horse  power  only  can 
be  applied  in  drawing  the  carriages. 

*This  ridge  extends  along  tlio  south  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  from  tlie  Niagara  to  the  Genesee  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  80  miles.  The  road  is  handsomely  arched 
in  the  centre,  and  is  generally  from  4  to  8  rods  wide.  In 
some  places  it  is  elevated  120  or  130  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake,  from  which  it  is  distant  from  G  to  10  miles. 
The  first  40  miles  from  Lewiston,  of  this  natural  high- 
way, is  broken  for  a  considerable  extent,  by  log  roads  or 
causeways,  bordered  by  impervious  forests,  occasionally 
relieved  by  the  temporary  huts  of  the  recent  settlers ;  but 
the  remaining  distance  is  unusually  level ;  and,  with  some 
intermissions,  bordered  by  a  line  of  cultivation.  It  is 
generally  believed  that  this  was  once  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  the  lake,  and  that  the  ridge  was  occasioned  by 
the  action  of  the  water.  The  gravel  and  smooth  stones 
of  which  the  ridge  is  composed,  intenningled  with  a  great 
variety  of  shells,  leave  little  room  to  doubt  the  correct- 
ness of  this  opinion. 


m 


m:i 


'Ml 


% 


I%rM 


B'M 


i 


■^: 


; 


i*^  ■  if. 

lev    ' 


\i 


H  f"' 


it  ;' ' 


208 


devil's  hole— whirlpool. 


In  pursuing  the  route  from  Lewiston  to  the  Falls,  the 
rail  road  soon  commences  aHcending  the  heights,  describ- 
injy  the  difFerence  of  altitude  between  Lakes  Ontario  and 
Erie.  At  the  distance  of  two  miles,  the  to^i  is  gained, 
and  affords  an  imposinfr  prospect  of  the  almost  intermin- 
able  expanse  below.  The  course  of  the  mighty  Niagara 
is  easily  traced  to  its  outlet ;  where,  from  their  promi- 
nence, arc  distinctly  seen,  F^rts  Niagara  and  George. 
The  waters  of  the  distant  lake  and  tlic  surrounding  plains 
are  so  charmin'^ly  picturcs(iue,  that  the  traveller  proceeds 
reluctantly,  even  to  participate  i«  the  enjoyment  of  scenes 
more  sublime.  Three  and  a  half  miles  from  Lewiston  is 
what  is  called  the 

Devil's  Hole,  a  most  terrific  gulf,  formed  by  a  chasm 
in  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Niagara,  150  or  200  feet  deep. 
An  angle  of  this  gulf  is  within  a  few  feet  of  the  stage 
road  ;  affording  to  the  passing  traveller,  witliout  alighting, 
an  opportunity  of  looking  into  the  yawning  abyss  beneath. 
During  the  French  war,  a  detachment  of  the  British  ar- 
my,  whilst  retreating  from  Schlosser  (about  5  miles  south) 
in  the  night,  before  a  superior  force  of  French  and  In- 
dians,  were  destroyed  at  this  place.  Officers,  soldiers, 
women  and  children,  with  their  horses,  waggons,  baggage, 
&c.,  were  all  precipitated  down  the  gulph.  Those  who 
were  not  destroyed  in  the  river,  were  dashed  in  pieces  on 
the  naked  rocks ! 

The  Whirlpool  is  one  mile  farther.  It  is  formed  by 
a  short  turn  in  the  river,  and  can  be  seen  on  either  side ; 
though  the  best  view,  connected  with  the  rapids,  is  on  the 
American  shore.     One  mile  farther,  is  a 

Sulphur  Spring,  used  principally  for  bathing. 


NIAGARA  FALLd. 


205 


I  ■  n 


'alls,  tho 

describ- 

Lario  and 

I  fraimid, 

intermin- 

Niagara 

ir  promi- 

George. 

ng  plains 

proceeds 

of  scenes 

jwiston  is 

'  a  chasm 

feet  deep. 

the  stage 

alighting, 

}  beneath. 

Jritish  ar- 

es  south) 

and  In- 

soldiers, 

baggage, 

lose  who 

pieces  on 

irmed  by 
ler  side ; 
is  on  the 


NIAGARA    FALLS 

Arc  a  mile  and  a  half  farther.  They  are  Hituatod  on 
the  Niagara  river,  vvhicli  unites  the  waters  of  the  Upper 
Lakes  and  Lake  Krio  with  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St. 
Lawrence  river.  Lakk  Supkriou,  the  first  and  wcKtcrn- 
most  of  these  inland  seas,  lies  between  46  and  -19  deg. 
of  north  latitude,  and  between  84  and  93  dog.  west  longi- 
tude from  London.  Its  length  is  459,  and  its  average 
width  109  miles.  About  40  small  and  3  large  rivers  en- 
ter into  this  lake,  on  one  of  which,  just  before  its  entrance, 
are  perpendicular  falls  of  more  than  GOO  feet.  The  outlet 
of  the  lake  is  called  the  river  St.  Marie,  which  is  90  miles 
long,  its  waters  flowing  into  Lake  Huron.  This  lake  is 
on  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Canada, 
218  miles  long  from  east  to  west,  and  180  broad.  Besides 
the  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  it  receives  the  waters  of 
Lakk  Michigan,  which  is  300  miles  long  and  about  50 
miles  wide.  At  its  northwest  corner  a  large  inlet  opens, 
called  Green  Bay,  about  100  miles  long,  and  from  15  to 
20  broad,  into  which  Fox  river  empties.  Beside  the  Fox, 
the  St.  Joseph  and  Grand,  two  very  important  rivers,  and 
innumerable  smaller  streams  are  also  tributary.  The  wa- 
ters of  these  lakes  thus  congregated,  enter  the  St.  Clair 
river,  40  miles  long,  to  the  St.  Clair  Lake,  which  is  about 
90  miles  in  circumference.  From  this  lake  they  enter 
the  Detroit  river,  on  which  the  city  of  Detroit  stands,  9 
miles  below  the  lake,  and  communicate  with  Lake  Erie, 
19  miles  from  Detroit.  Lake  Erie  is  on  the  boundary 
line  between  the  United  States  and  Upper  Canada.  It 
is  290  miles  long  from  southwest  to  northeast,  and  in  the 


:'<J 


,i|l^l 


I 


.1^  ■'; 

'    i 


I'i' 


I 


SIO 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


widest  part,  63  broad.  Besides  the  waters  of  tho  upper 
lakes,  it  receives  the  Cuyalioga  river  and  several  tributa 
ry  streams. 

Such  are  the  sources  of  the  Niagara;  a  river  inferior 
in  splendor  to  none,  perhaps,  in  tho  world.  It  is  35  miles 
lonjr,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  5  or  G  miles  wide.  Tho 
banks  vary  in  their  height  abr)ve  the  Falls,  from  4  to  100 
feet.  Immediately  below  the  Falls,  the  precipice  is  not 
less  than  300  feet,  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario  it  gradu- 
ally diminishes  to  the  height  of  25  or  30  feet.  The  Ni. 
agara  river  contains  a  number  of  islands,  the  principal  of 
which  is  Grand  Island,  which  was  ceded  to  the  state  of 
New-York  by  the  Seneca  nation  of  Indians,  in  1815.  It 
is  12  miles  lonir  and  from  2  to  7  broad. 

The  Falls  arc  situated  below  Grand  Island,  about  20 
miles  distant  from  Lake  Eric,  and  14  from  Lake  Ontario, 
At  Chippewa  creek,  on  the  Canada  side,  2  miles  above 
the  Falls,  the  width  of  the  river  is  nearly  2  miles,  and  its 
current  extremely  rapid.  Thence  to  the  Falls  it  gradually 
narrows  to  about  I  mile.  The  descent  of  the  rapids  has 
been  estimated  at  58  feet.  T'he  course  of  the  river  above 
the  Falls  is  north- westwardly,  and  below  it  turns  abruptly 
to  the  northeast,  flowing  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  when  it 
assumes  a  northern  direction  to  Lake  Ontario.  The 
sheet  of  water  above  the  Falls  is  separated  by  Goat  Island, 
leaving  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canadian  side  about  600 
yards  wide,  and  the  liigh  fall  on  the  American  side  about 
300.  The  latter  drops  almost  perpendicularly  to  the  dis- 
tance of  164  foet.  The  grand  or  horse-shoe  fall,  on  the 
Canada  side,  descends  to  the  river  below  in  the  form  of  a 
curve,  158  feet,  projecting  about  50  feet  from  the  base. 


Thf 
abo 


NIAGARA  FMl.fi. 


211 


bo  upper 
1  tributa. 

;r  inferior 
i  35  miles 
do.  The 
1  4  to  100 
lice  is  not 
it  gradu- 
Thc  Ni- 
rincipal  oi 
3  state  of 
1815.     It 

about  20 
:e  Ontario, 
lilcs  above 
les,  and  its 
gradually 
rapids  has 
ver  above 
s  abruptly 
if,  when  it 
■io.      The 
lat  Island, 
bout  600 
ide  about 
,0  the  dis- 
1,  on  the 
form  of  a 
the  base. 


The  whole  hcipht,  including  the  descent  of  the  /apidE 
above,  is  21G  feet. 

Oil  tfui  Amencnu  y'lde, 
A  flight  (;f  stnirs  has  been  constructed  from  the  bank  a 
few  rods  below  the  falls  to  the  bottom.  Tn  conseciucncc 
of  a  rocky  barrier  in  front  of  the  fallint;  sheet,  it  can  be 
approached  to  within  a  few  feet ;  thougli  not  without  en- 
countcrinfr  a  plentiful  shower  of  the  spray.  About  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  fall  a  bridge  lias  been  con- 
structed from  the  shore  to  Bath  Island ;  which  is  con- 
nected by  means  of  another  bridge  with  Goat  Island. 
Tho  sensation  in  crossing  these  bridges,  and  particularly 
the  first,*  over  the  tremendous  ra])id8  beneath,  is  calcula- 
ed  to  alarm  the  traveller  for  his  safety,  and  hasten  him  in 
his  excursion  to  tho  Island.     On  Bath  Island,  mills  have 

*  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  to  whom  the  public  are  indebted 
for  the  construction  of  tliis  bridge,  informed  me  that  its 
erection  was  not  efTected  witiiout  considerable  danger. 
Two  large  trees,  iiewed  to  correspond  with  their  shape, 
were  first  constructed  into  a  temporary  bridge,  the  buts 
fastened  to  tho  shore,  with  the  lightest  ends  projecting 
over  the  rapids.  At  the  extremity  of  the  projection,  a 
small  pier  of  stone  was  first  placed  in  the  river,  and  when 
this  became  secure,  logs  were  sunk  around  it,  locked  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  form  a  frame,  which  was  filled  with 
stone.  A  bridge  was  then  made  to  this  pier,  the  tempo- 
rary bridge  shoved  forward,  and  another  pier  formed,  un- 
til  the  whole  was  com})leteu.  One  man  fell  into  the 
rapids  during  the  work.  At  first,  owing  to  the  velocity 
with  which  he  was  carried  forward,  he  was  unable  to  hold 
ui>on  the  projecting  rocks  ;  but  through  great  bodily  ex- 
ertions  to  lessen  the  motion,  by  swimming  against  the 
current,  he  was  enabled  to  seize  upon  a  rock,  from  which 
he  was  taken  by  means  of  a  rope. 

T 


t  ',  '  I 


t' 


m 


ill 


"'.'"S1 


liii 


^k^' 


w 

m 

lUi 

'T 


212 


niagaha  falls. 


h     ^' 


been  erected,  contiguous  to  what  is  termed  the  race-viay^ 
which  divides  Bath  from  Goat  Island.  The  latter,  which 
is  330  yards  broad,  is  principally  a  wilderness.  On  the 
southern  and  western  banks  an  extensive  view  is  had  of 
the  rapids  above  and  of  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canada 
side.  But  the  best  view  of  the  latter  is  obtained  from 
The  Tower.,  a  stone  build "ng  erected  bctwecn-Goat  Island 
and  the  Terrapin  rocks.  A  bridge,  300  feet  long,  once 
extended  to  these  rocks  and  even  to  the  verge  of  the 
"  Crescent  or  Horse-shoe  Fall ;"  but  is  now  only  kept  in 
repair  to  the  Tower.  The  summit  of  the  latter  is  reached 
by  means  of  a  spiral  stair  case  in  the  interior.  The  view 
from  this  elevation  is  indescribably  grand  and  overpower, 
ing.  The  rapids  above,  the  mist  below,  enriched  by  a 
brilliant  solar  arch,  together  with  the  roar  of  the  immense 
body  of  falling  water,  fill  the  mind  with  reverential  awe 
£nd  dread. 

At  the  foot  of  Iris  Island  (adjoining  Goat  Island)  is 
what  is  called  the  Biddlc  siair-way^  erected  by  N.  Bid- 
DLE,  Esq.  late  president  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  This  affords 
a  safe  and  easy  passage  to  another  favorable  position  for 
viewing  this  stupendous  work  of  nature.  The  elevation 
of  the  island  above  the  margin  of  the  river  or  basin  below, 
is  185  feet.  The  descent  of  the  first  40  feet  is  effected 
by  a  flight  of  steps,  commencing  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  and  descending  in  a  rapid  declivity  to  the  brow  of 
the  perpendicular  work,  through  a  dugway  walled  on 
both  sides ;  the  second  flight  is  by  a  spiral  stair  way  of  88 
steps,  down  a  perpendicular  building  in  the  shape  of  a 
hexicon,  resting  on  a  firm  foundation — the  whole  hand- 
somely enclosed.     From  the  foot  of  this  building  to  the 


J 


wm 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


215 


ace-vmy^ 
sr,  which 

On  the 
s  had  of 

Canada 
led  from 
at  Island 
ing,  once 
;e  of  the 
y  kept  in 
)  reached 
rhe  view 
rcrpower- 
lied  by  a 
immense 
tttial  awe 

island)  is 

N.  Bid. 

lis  affords 

>sition  for 

elevation 

[in  below, 

effected 

)r  of  the 

brow  of 

'^alled  on 

ray  of  88 

tape  of  a 

[lo  hand- 

g  to  the 


river  below,  (about  80  feet,)  are  three  paths  formed  of 
stone  steps,  and  leading  to  the  water  in  different  direc- 
tions.* 

The  amount  of  water  which  passes  over  the  respective 
falls  has  been  estimated  by  Dr.  D wight  at  more  than  lOO 
millions  of  tons  an  hour  !  No  method  can  be  devised  for 
ascertaining  the  depth  at  the  principal  fall ;  but  it  is  not 
improbable  that  it  may  be  6  or  800  feet ;  as  the  depth  of 
the  stream  half  a  mile  below  is  from  250  to  260  feet. 

To  a  stranger  who  shall  examine  the  rapids  above  the 
falls,  it  will  seem  incredible  that  Goat  Island  should  ever 
have  been  visited  previous  to  the  construction  of  a 
bridge.  Yet  as  early  as  17G5,t  several  French  officers 
were  conveyed  to  it  by  Indians  in  canoes,  carefully  drop- 
ping down  the  river ;  and  it  is  but  a  few  years  since  Gen. 
Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  with  some  other  gentlemen,  also 
made  a  trip  to  the  Island  in  a  boat.  They  found  but  lit- 
tle trouble  in  descending ;  but  their  return  was  difficult 
and  hazardous.  It  was  effected  by  shoving  the  boat  with 
setting  poles  up  the  most  shallow  part  of  the  current,  for 
half  a  mile,  before  making  for  the  shore. 

Falling  into  the  current  within  a  mile  of  the  falls,  is 
considered  fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have 
happened ;  and  no  one  (save  in  the  instance  mentioned 
in  a  preceding  page)  has  ever  reached  the  shore.     Many 


*  It  was  from  ladders  erected  at  this  place  that  the 
celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  a  descent  of  118  feet  into  the 
water  below,  a  short  time  previous  to  his  fatal  leap  at 
Rochester,  in  the  fall  of  1829. 

t  Trees  marked  1765  and  1769,  are  still  to  be  seen  on 
the  island. 


.f.i 


it|5'!' 


••§ 


..  i         A- 


^:n 


'M 


214 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


|/  n 


Uill 


I,  .  ^. 


!  '    i 


1    i  I 


V 


I  f. 


bodies  have  been  found  below  the  falls — those  that  have 
fallen  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  without  any  external 
marks  of  injury  ;  and  tliosc  that  have  fallen  near  the 
shore,  much  lacerated  and  disfigured.  The  latter  has 
probably  been  occasionca  by  coming  in  contact  with 
rocks  in  fihallow  water,  before  reaching  the  cataract.  It 
is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian,  partially  intoxicated, 
in  attempting  to  cross  the  river  near  Chippewa,  was  fore. 
ed  near  the  rapid h  ;  when,  finding  all  cfForts  to  regain  the 
shore  unavailing,  he  lay  down  in  his  canoe,  and  was  soon 
plunged  into  the  tremendous  vortex  below.  He  was  nev- 
er seen  afterwards. 

There  are  two  respectable  boarding  establishments  on 
the  American  side,  in  what  is  called  the  village  of  Man- 
chester ;  and  a  third,  on  a  much  larger  scale,  was  com- 
menced a  few  years  since,  but  very  little  beyond  the 
foundation  has  been  perfected.  The  village  was  burnt 
by  the  British  in  1813;  but  it  has  been  rebuilt,  and 
though  small,  is  larger  than  it  was  previous  to  that  event. 

Row  boats  continually  cross  the  river  from  the  foot  of 
the  stair  way  on  the  American  side  to  the  road  leading 
to  the  Chfton  House," 

On  the  Canadian  side. 

The  view  from  the  table  rock  about  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  landing,  has  been  generally  considered  preferable 
to  an}'^  other ;  but  tliis  point  must  be  decided  by  the  ditfcr- 
net  tastes  of  visitors.  The  table  rock  projects  about  50 
feet,  and  between  it  and  the  Falls  an  irregular  arcli  is 
formed,  which  extends  under  the  pitch  almost  without  in- 
terruption, to  Iris  island.  The  descent  from  the  rock  is 
by  means  of  a  spiral  stairway,  which  is  enclosed.    Visi- 


i  pi' 


,t  havo 
sternal 
3ar  the 
ter  has 
it  with 

LCt.       It 

dcated, 
as  fore- 
rain  the 
^as  soon 
vas  nev- 

lents  on 
■){  Man- 
as com- 
ond  the 
19  burnt 
lilt,  and 
,t  event. 
|e  foot  of 
leading 


lie  south 

•eferable 
ditFcr. 

ibout  50 
arch  is 

Ihoat  in- 
rock  is 
.    Visi- 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


215 


tants  desirous  of  passing  in  the  rear  of  the  great  sheet  of 
water,  are  supplied  by  the  keeper  of  the  stairs  with  dress- 
es for  that  purpose,  and  with  a  guide.  On  reaching  the 
bottom  a  rough  path  winds  along  the  foot  of  the  precipice 
and  leads  under  the  excavated  bank,  which,  in  one  place, 
overhangs  about  40  feet.  Tlie  entrance  into  the  tremen- 
dous cavern  behind  the  falling  sheet,  should  never  be  at- 
tempted by  persons  of  weak  nerves.  The  humidity  of 
the  atmosphere,  which,  at  times,  almost  prevents  respira- 
tion ;  the  deafening  roar  of  the  foaming  torrent,  and  the 
sombre  appearance  of  surrounding  objects,  is  oftentimes 
calculated  to  unnerve  the  stoutest  frame.  The  farthest 
distance  that  can  be  approached,  is  to  what  is  called 
Termination  Rock^  153  feet  from  the  commencement  of 
the  volume  of  water  at  Table  Rock.  Few,  however, 
have  the  courage  to  proceed  that  distance,  and  seldom  go 
farther  than  100  feet. 

A  large  crack  in  the  table  rock,  which  has  increased 
annually  for  some  years,  renders  it  very  certain  that  a 
considerable  proportion  will  ere  long  fall  into  the  abyss 
below.  The  part  thus  cracked  is  nearly  50  feet  in  width, 
and  might  be  blasted  off  without  difficulty.  The  height 
of  this  rock  has  been  ascertained  to  be  163  feet ;  while 
that  of  the  Falls,  measuring  from  the  bridge  near  the 
terrapin  rocks,  has  proved  to  be  158  feet  4  inches. 

The  Pavilion,  on  the  Canada  side,  is  on  a  lofty  emi- 
nence above  the  Falls ;  affording  from  its  piazzas  and 
roof  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  It 
is  a  handsomely  constructed  building,  and  can  accommo- 
date from  100  to  150  guests.     Connected  with  the  estab- 

lishment  is  a  platform   along   what   is  called  the  upper 

t2 


il-i 


•  I- 


Hi',    ilfl 
''     mi 


*  (^ 


HI 


fi 


I! 


I ! 


1  I  I  ii  , 


.1 


216 


BURNING  SPRING. 


,t'    , 


bank,  between  the  house  and  river,  giving  an  easy  de- 
scent to  the  Table  Rock.  This  with  the  stair  case  from 
the  rock  to  the  bank  below,  affords  a  pleasant  and  safe 
means  of  obtaining  one  of  the  best  viev/s  of  the  Falls. 

While  on  the  Canadian  side,  tourists  will  find  it 
interesting  to  visit  the  Deep  Cut  of  the  Welland  Ca- 
nal, eight  m^'.cs  west  of  the  Falls.  This  canal,  which 
unites  the  waters  of  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  which 
is  constructed  for  sloops  of  125  tons  burthen,  commences 
at  Port  Maitland,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  river  on 
Lake  Erie,  40  miles  west  of  Buffalo,  and  follows  the 
channel  of  that  stream  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half,  and 
thence  up  Broad  creek  nearly  a  mile,  where  the  artificial 
channel  commences  by  a  cut  of  10  miles  through  a 
marsh.  It  then  proceeds  down  Mill  creek  2  1-2  miles 
until  it  intersects  the  Welland  river  ;  soon  after  which  the 
deep  cut  commences,  averaging  44  feet  for  a  mile,  through 
a  tenacious  clay.  Beyond  this,  for  a  distance  of  4  miles, 
the  canal  preserves  an  elevation  corresponding  with  the 
€ut ;  when,  in  4  miles  farther,  it  descends,  by  means  of 
32  locks,  322  feet.  Thence  to  Lake  Ontario,  a  dis- 
tance of  5  miles,  it  is  mostly  in  the  bed  of  the  Twelve 
Mile  creek.  The  whole  length  of  the  canal,  including 
19  miles  of  slack  wat(;r  navigation,  is  about  44  miles. 

Burning  Spring. — About  half  a  mile  south  of  the  Falls, 
(on  the  Canadian  side)  and  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
Niagara  riv-  /,  is  a  Burning  Spring.  Tlie  water  is  warm 
and  surcharged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas.  The 
water  rises  in  a  barrel,  which  is  covered,  and  me  gas  es- 
capes through  a  tube.  On  applying  a  candle  to  the  tube, 
the  gas  takes  fire,  and  bnrns  with  a  brilliant  flame  luitil 


J-:;!^ 


IJATTLE  OF  BRIDGEWATEIt. 


217 


sy  de- 
5  from 
d  safe 
Us. 

[ind   it 
ND  Ca- 
which 
which 
[nences 
iver  on 
?7S  the 
,lf,  and 
Ttificial 
ouffh  a 
2  miles 
lich  the 
.hrough 
*  miles, 
rith  tlic 
eans  of 
a  dis- 
welvo 
hiding 

OS. 

Falls, 
of  the 
warm 
The 
Igas  es- 
tube, 
10  until 


blown  out ;  and  on  closing  the  building  for  a  short  time  in 
which  the  spring  is  contained,  and  afterwards  entering  it 
with  a  lighted  candle,  an  explosion  may  bo  produced.  A 
small  fee  for  the  exhibition  is  required  by  the  keeper  of 
the  spring. 

Brjogewater,  or  Lundy's  Lane,  is  half  a  mile  fu'-thcr. 
It  is  celebrated  as  the  ground  on  which  an   important 
battle  was  fought  b'^tween  the  British  and  Americans  in 
July,    1814.      In   the   afternoon,   the   British   fidvanced 
towards  Chippewa  with  a  powerful  force.     At  6  o'clock. 
Gen.  Scott  was  ordered  to  advance  with  his  brigade  and 
attack  them.     He  was  soon  reinforced  by  General  Rip- 
ley's brigade  ;  they  met  the  British  below  the  falls.   They 
had  selected  their  ground  for  the  night,  intending  to  at- 
tack the  American  camp  before  day-light.     The  action 
began  just  before  7,  and  an  uninterrupted  stream  of  mus- 
ketry continued  till   half  past  8,  when  there  was  some 
cessation,  the  British  falling  back.     It  soon  began  again 
with  some  artillery,  which,  with  slight  interruptions,  con- 
tinued till  half  past  10,  when  there  was  a  charge,  and  a 
tremendous  stream  of  fire  closed  the  conflict.     Both  ar- 
mies   fought  with  a  desperation  bordering  on  madness  j 
neither  would  yield  the  palm,  but  each  retired  a  short  dis- 
tance, wearied  out  with  fatigue.     For  two  hours  the  two 
hostile  lines  were  within  ^0  yards  of  each  other,  and  so- 
frequently  intermingled,  that  often  an  officer  would  order 
an  enemy's  platoon.     I'he  moon  shone  briglit ;  but  ])art 
of  the  Americans  being  dressed  like  the  Glengarian  regi- 
m-^nt  caused  the  deception. 

The  British  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners  was 
S78,  and  the  American  loss  8G0. 


ii»,'*i 


m  ^ 


'i 


i!i      :,? 


218 


BATTLE  OF  CHIPPEWA. 


lis     '  'a 


mviii. 


The  road  from  the  Fells  passes  directly  over  the  hill 
where  the  British  artillery  was  posted  at  the  time  Scott's 
brigade  commern^ed  the  action ;  and  the  houses  in  the 
village  of  Bridgcw^ater — the  trees  and  fences  in  the  vicin- 
ity,  still  retain  marks  of  the  combat.  Many  graves  are 
seen  upon  the  hill ;  among  others  that  of  Capt.  Hull,  son 
of  the  late  Gen.  Hull,  who  distinguished  himself  and  fell 
in  this  action.  Most  of  the  slain  were  collected  and 
burned  upon  the  battle  ground. 

Chippewa  Village  is  one  mile  south  of  the  battle 
ground.  It  contains  a  small  cluster  of  buildings  and  a 
few  mills  situate  on  the  Chippewa  creek,  which  runs 
through  the  village.     One  mile  farther  is 

The  Chippewa  Battle  Ground.  The  battle  of  Chip- 
pewa was  fought  on  the  5th  of  July,  1814,  and  has  been 
described  as  one  of  the  most  brilliant  spectacles  that 
could  well  be  conceived.  The  day  (says  a  WTitcr)  was 
clear  and  bright ;  and  the  plain  such  as  might  have  been 
selected  for  a  j)arade  or  a  tournament ;  the  troops  on  both 
sides,  though  not  numerous,  admirably  disciplined ;  the 
generals  leading  on  their  columns  in  person  ;  the  ghtter 
of  the  arms  in  the  sun,  and  the  precision  and  distinctness 
of  every  movement,  were  all  calculated  to  carry  the  mind 
back  to  the  scenes  of  ancient  story  or  poetry — to  the 
plains  of  Latium  or  of  Troy,  and  all  those  recollections 
which  fill  the  imagination  w'th  images  of  personal  hero- 
ism  and  romantic  valor. 

After  some  skirmishing,  the  British  Indians  were  dis- 
covered in  the  rear  of  the  American  camp.  Gen.  Porter, 
with  his  volunteers  and  Indians,  were  directed  to  scour  in 


the  hill 
Scott's 
in  the 
Q  vicin- 
ves  arc 
uU,  son 
and  fell 
:cd  and 

)  battle 
3  and  a 
;h  runs 

3f  Chip- 
lias  been 
des  that 
cr)  was 
ive  been 
on  both 
led;  the 
e  glitter 
inctncss 
He  mind 
to  the 
llections 
al  hero- 

lere  dis- 

Porter, 

I  scour  in 


BATTLE  OP  CHIPPEWA. 


2l2f 


the  ac^oining  forcBt.    This  force  had  nearly  debouched 
from  the  woods  opposite  Cliippcwa,  when  it  was  aiscer- 
tamod  that  tlie  whole  British  force,  under  Gen.  Riall,  had 
crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge.     Gen,  Brown  gave  imme- 
diate orders  to  Gen.  Scott  to  advance  with  his  brigade, 
and  to  Gen.  Ripley  to  be  in  readiness  to  support.     In  a 
few  minutes,  the  British  line  was  discovered  formed  and 
rapidly  advancing,  their  right  on  the  woods,  and  their  left 
on  the  river.     Their  object  was  to  gain  the  bridge  across 
a  small   creek  in  front  of  the   American   tncampment, 
wliich,  if  done,  would  have  compelled  the  Americans  to 
retire.     Tlie  bridge,  however,  was  soon  gained  by  Gen. 
Scott  and  crossed,  under  a  tremendous  fire  of  the  British 
artillery,  and  his  line  formed.     The  British  orders  were  to 
give  one  volley  at  a  distance,   and  immediately  charge. 
But  such  was  the  warmth  of  the  American  musquetry 
that  they  could  not  withstand  it,  and  were  obliged  to  re- 
treat  before   the  ap])earance  of  Ripley's  brigade,  which 
had   been  directed   to  make  a  movement   through   the 
woods  upon  the  British  right  flank.     The  British  recross- 
ed  the  Chippewa  bridge,  which  they  broke  down  on  their 
retreat,   having   suiTercd  a  loss   in  killed,  wounded  and 
missing,  of  514.     The  American  loss  was  328. 

Returning  to  the  American  side  of  the  Falls,  a  passage 
is  taken  in  the  rail  road  cars  for  Builalo.  Two  and  a  iiall 
miles  from  the  Faiis  is  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schlosscr  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  rendered  somewhat  noted  in  mod- 
ern times,  as  the  spot  at  which  the  Caroline  steamer  lay 
moored  at  the  time  of  her  capture  by  an  armed  British 
force  in  the  winter  of  1838.  She  was  detached  from  her 
moorings,  set  on   tire,  and  sent    adrift  over  the  Falls. 


!i^ 


li'l  '' 


it: 


♦  1 


uiiill'' 


220 


NAVY  ISL\ND WATERLOO. 


1.;s 


m^ 


One  man  is  known  to  have  been  killed,  who  was  standing 
on  the  shore  at  the  time  of  the  conflict,  and  it  is  generally 
believed  that  some  were  lost  in  the  burning  vessel ;  but 
no  positive  proof  has  ever  been  adduced  on  the  subject. 

Navy  Island,  between  which  and  the  American  shore 
the  Caroline  plied  several  times  previous  to  her  destruc- 
tion, lies  nearly  opposite  Fort  Schlosser.  It  is  at  the 
foot  of  Grand  Island,  and  contains  about  300  acres.  It 
was  in  the  posression  of  a  band  of  Canadian  refugees  and 
American  volunteers  at  the  time  of  the  burning  of  the 
Caroline,  and  was  not  evacuated  by  them,  until  all  sup. 
plies  were  cut  off  from  the  American  as  well  as  Canadian 
shore. 

Black  Rock,  about  1 6  miles  south  of  Schlosser,  is  a 
village  of  considerable  magnitude  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Niagara  river.  It  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1814 ;  but 
has  been  rebuilt,  and  is  much  increased  from  its  former 
size.  A  pier  in  the  river,  about  2  miles  long,  affords  a 
harbor  to  the  village,  and  is  used  as  a  part  of  the  Erie 
canal.  The  dam,  however,  has  been  found  insufficient  to 
withstand  the  force  of  the  current.  Repeated  injuries  are 
sustained,  and  vessels  now  seldom  enter  the  harbor. 
Opposite  Black  Rock,  on  the  Canada  side,  is  the  small 
village  of 

WATERLOO  ;  a  httle  north  of  which  stand  the  ruins  of 
Fort  Erie,  rendered  memorable  as  tV  ^  theatre  of  several 
engagements  during  the  late  war.  The  last  and  most 
decisive  battle  fought  at  this  place,  was  on  the  night  of  the 
15tL  of  August,  1814.  The  fort  was  occupied  by  the 
Americans ;  and  its  possession  was  considered  an  object 
of  importance  to  the  British.     Taking  advantage  of  the 


darkne 

assault 

they  HI 

After  1 

many  1 

Americ 

in  a  sto: 

dous  sla 

rctreute 

were  C( 

prisoner 

cd,  and 

Tliis 

fort  on 

in  a  loss 

oners,  ai 

missing. 

Situati 
Black  R( 
the  advai 
is  destine 
the  state. 
20,000,  a 
canal  cor 
falo  creeh 
level  plot, 
high  grou 
cut,  at  ve 
R     rendering 


BUFFALO. 


221 


darkness  of  the  night,  they  made  repeated  and  furious 
assaults,  and  \verc  as  often  repulsed  ;  until,  at  length, 
they  Hucceeded,  ry  superior  force,  in  gaining  a  la.^tion. 
After  maintaining  it  for  a  short  time,  at  the  expense  of 
many  lives,  accident  placed  it  again  in  the  hands  of  the 
Americans.  Several  cartridges  which  had  been  placed 
in  a  stone  building  adjoining  exploded,  producing  tremen- 
dous slaughter  and  death  among  the  British.  They  sooi: 
retreated,  leaving  on  the  field  221  killed,  among  whom 
were  Cols.  Scott  and  Drummond,  174  wounded,  and  186 
prisoners.  The  American  loss  w^as  17  killed,  56  wound- 
ed, and  11  missing. 

This  action  was  followed  by  a  splendid  sortie  near  the 
fort  on  the  17th  of  the  following  month,  which  resulted 
in  a  loss  to  the  British  of  near  1000,  including  385  pris- 
oners, and  to  the  Americans  of  511  killed,  wounded  and 
missing. 

BUFFAI^Oj 

Situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  is  3  miles  from 
Black  Rock.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  thriving  city,  and  with 
the  advan^  ges  of  both  a  natural  and  artifici?.!  navigation, 
is  destined  to  become  one  of  the  most  important  places  in 
the  state.  Its  present  population  Vi  estimated  at  about 
20,000,  and  the  number  of  buildings  at  2500.  The  Erie 
canal  commences  in  this  city,  near  the  outlet  of  the  Buf- 
falo creek,  and  passes  through  an  extensive  and  perfectly 
level  plot,  equidistant  from  the  shore  ci  the  lake  and  the 
high  grounds  called  the  Terrace.  From  the  canal  are 
cut,  at  very  suitable  distances,  lateral  canals  and  hasinSy 
rendering  the  whole  of  what  has  heretofore  been  termed  the 


»1|M>MW>»M 


322 


>1UFFAL0. 


W 


I'      4 


lower  toioiiy  contiguous  to  water  communication.  Stores 
and  warehouses  arc  po  constructed  as  to  receive  the  boats 
along  side.  Jn  its  location,  ButTalo  iw  in  the  midst  of  the 
entcrprizc  and  business  of  this  new  world.  All  the  man- 
ufactures and  migrating  population  from  the  north  and 
oast  here  find  a  resting  place,  and  the  agricultural  pro. 
ducts  of  the  west,  coming  from  the  long  extended  lakes, 
hero  seek  a  new  avenue  to  the  Atlantic.  At  the  Terrace, 
which  was  formerly  the  dividing  lino  between  the  upper 
and  lower  towns,  but  which  are  now  rendered  continuous, 
^1  gentle  and  equal  rise  of  ground  commences,  continuing 
nearly  and  porliai)s  quite  two  miles,  and  then  falls  away 
to  a  perfect  level  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  bounded  on- 
ly by  the  horizon.  Upon  this  elevated  ground  there  is  a 
charming  view  of  the  lake,  Niagara  river,  tlio  canal  with 
its  branches,  the  Buffalo  creek,  the  town  itself,  and  the 
Canada  shore ;  a  prospect  from  which  every  one  parts 
with  reluctance.  The  streets  are  very  broad,  and  passing 
from  the  high  grounds  over  the  Terrace  to  the  water,  are 
intersected  witli  cross  streets.  There  arc  three  public 
squares  of  some  extent,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
the  city.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court  house,  situated 
on  the  highest  part  of  Main  street,  well  proportioned  and 
handsomely  ornamented,  with  a  large  park  in  front,  en- 
closed  and  set  round  with  forest  trees;  16  churches,  a 
college,  a  literary  and  scientific  academy,  a  lyceum,  a  fe- 
male seminary  and  3  banks.  The  Presbyterian  meeting 
house,  standing  near  lie  Episcopal  church  upon  a  semi- 
circular common  on  Main  street,  is  an  edifice  of  very 
-commanding  appearance ;  and  several  of  the  churches  are 


nUFFALO. 


223 


beautiful  specimens*  of  architecture,  and  would  do  credit 
to  any  city  in  America. 

There  are  several  spacious  public  houses  ;  amon^r  which, 
the  American  Hotkl  is  probably  not  surpassed  by  any  in 
the  United  States,  either  as  to  vsize,  furniture,  or  the  style 
in  which  it  is  kept.  The  Eaglk  Tavfirn,  Buffalo 
House  and  City  Hotfl  arc  also  extensive  and  hijrhly  re- 
s^iectable  cBtablislnaunts,  and  share  liberally  in  the  public 
pi  .tronage. 

The  place  (then  a  villajre)  was  burnt  by  the  British  in 
18i4,  when  there  was  but  one  house  left  standing.  This 
is  st-U  pointed  out  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city.  It  was 
not  until  considerable  time  had  elapsed  after  this,  that 
Buffalo  began  to  be  rebuilt,  nor  until  the  canal  was  loca- 
ted, did  it  rise  with  much  promise.  In  1822  it  was  in- 
corporated as  a  city,  and  is  rapidly  rising  into  impctance. 
A  ship  canal,  80  feet  wide  and  13  deep,  extends  across 
from  the  harbor,  near  the  outlet  of  Buffalo  creek  to  the 
canal,  a  distance  of  about  700  yards  ;  and  a  boat  canal 
from  the  Big  Buffalo  creek  to  the  Little  Buffalo  creek,  a 
distance  of  1600  feet.  Between  40  and  50  steamboats 
ply  between  the  city  and  various  places  on  the  lak  ■.  A 
morning  and  evening  boat  leave  the  harbor  daily  for  De- 
troit, and  additional  boats  are  building  which  will  even 
increase  the  facilities  of  communication. 

As  this  place  was  the  theatre  of  hnportant  events 
during  the  last  war,  the  writer  had  exjiected  to  find  in  the 
city  church  yards  some  monuments  to  the  memory  of  the 
brave  who  fell  during  that  period  ;  but  he  discovered  only 
one  ;  it  contained  the  following  inscription :  "To  the 
memory  of  Maj.  Wm.  Howe  Cuyler,  who  was  killed  at 

u 


ii       > 


:  ( M . 


Smmttm 


224 


BUFFALO. 


.•IHf 


Black  Rock  by  a  shot  from  tho  enemy,  on  thn  night  of  the 
9th  October,  1812,  \vhil(3  humanely  adminintoring  to  the 
relief  of  the  wounded  soldiers,  who  intrepidly  crossed  to 
tho  British  shore,  and  broujrht  over  the  Adams  frigate, 
that  had  been  surrendered  by  Gen.  Hull,  and  tho  Calc- 
donia  ship  belonging  to  tho  enemy.  He  was  in  the  35th 
year  of  his  age,  and  son  of  the  late  Henry  Cuyler,  Esq.  of 
Greenbush  in  this  state." 

The  Seneca  Village^  settled  by  about  900  Indians, 
principally  Senecas,  with  some  Onondagas  and  Cayugas 
dwelling  among  them,  is  from  3  to  4  miles  southeast  of 
Buffalo  They  own  49,000  acres,  reaching  to  the  very 
bounds  of  the  city,  a  greater  part  of  which  is  luxuriantly 
fertile.  A  mission  is  established  on  the  reservation,  and 
a  school  kept  for  the  instruction  of  Indian  children. 
Near  the  Seneca  Village  is  a  sulphur  spring,  which  is 
much  resorted  to  during  the  summer  season. 

Buffalo  being  the  point  at  which  travellers  embark  on 
a  tour  through  the  lakes  or  to  the  western  states,  a  brief 
description  of  the  prominent  routes  is  subjoined,  before 
proceeding  in  tho  excursion  through  Lake  Ontario  to 
Montreal,  &-c.  The  following  are  the  charges  for  fare  to 
tho  most  prominent  places  : 

By  steamboat^  from  Buffalo  to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  $6 ; 
from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  ^8  ;  from  do.  to  Mackinaw  and 
Sault  St.  Marie,  $12  ;  from  do.  to  Chicago,  Green  Bay, 
and  St.  Josephs,  »^20.  By  stage ^  from  Cleveland  to  Pitts- 
burg, Penn.,  ^6 ;  from  Cleveland  or  Sandusky  to  Cincin- 
nati, $12;  from  Pittsburg  to  Wheehng,  $3;  thence  hy 
steamboat  to  Cincinnati,  $10,  or  hy  stage  $14.    By  steam- 


>  * 


BUFFALO  TO  DETROIT. 


225 


t of  the 
to  the 
ssed  to 
irigate, 
0  Calc 
[lo  35th 
Esq.  of 

[ndians, 
Jayugas 
licast  of 
he  very 
uriantly 
ion,  and 
;hildren. 
i^hich  is 

ibark  on 
1,  a  brief 

before 
ario  to 

fare  to 

lio,  $6; 
law  and 
en  Bay, 
to  Pitts- 
Cincin- 
ence  hy 
y  steam- 


fioat,  from  Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  ^4 ;  from  do.  to  St. 
Louis,  $16;  from  do.  to  New-Drloans,  ^25. 

FROM  BUFFALO  TO  DETROIT, 

311  jiiilcs. 

Steamboats  leave  Buffalo  twice  a  day  for  Detroit,  occu- 
pying  about  3G  hours  in  the  passage.  The  intermediate 
places  of  prominence  and  the  distances  are  as  follow  : 


Miles. 
From  Buffalo  to  Stur- 
geonPt,  N.Y..   10 

Cattaraugus, 10    20 

Dunkirk 13     33 

Van  Buren,. 2     35 

Portland, 16     51 

Burgett'sTown,P.  18     69 

Erie, 17     86 

Fairvicw, 11     97 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,..  28  125 


Milfis. 

Fairport, 3^  157 

Cleveland, 30  187 

Sanduskv, 54  241 

Cunningham's  Isl.,  12  253 
North  Bass  Island,  10  263 
Middle  Sister  do.  10  273 
Auiherstburgh,   U. 

Canada 20  293 

Figliting  Island,..  6  299 
Detroit,  Mieh.,...  12  311 


Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  is  at  present  a  smill  village  ;  but  its 
fine  harbor,  which  is  frequently  clear  of  ice  much  earlier 
in  the  season  than  the  Buffalo  harbor,  together  with  the 
termination  of  the  proposed  New- York  and  Erie  rail  road 
.  within  its  precmcts,  will  hereafter  render  it  a  place  of 
much  commerce  and  importance. 

Van  Buren,  2  miles  farther,  is  a  new  and  flourishing 
village,  handsomely  laid  out,  and  is  destined  to  be  a  place 
of  considerable  trade. 

Portland,  16  miles. 

Burgett's  Town,  Penn.  18  miles. 

Erie,  17  miles  farther,  contains  a  court  house,  2  banks, 
5  churches,  and  about  2500  inhabitants,  and  in  its  local 


-■!|cayi 


■^•■' 


226 


CLEVELAND. 


fi 
;^- 


advantages  is  equalled  by  few  towns  in  the  interior.  Be- 
sides a  water  communication  with  all  the  towns  on  the 
western  lakes,  it  is  the  terminating  point  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania  canal,  which  connects  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh 
with  I -^-ke  Erie.  The  village  is  distant  from  Pittsburgh 
120  miles,  and  from  Philadelphia  380. 

Fatrview,  11  miles. 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,  28  miles.  It  has  a  good  harbor  and 
is  a  thriving  village. 

F;  iRPORT,  32  miles,  is  located  at  the  junction  of  Grand 
river  with  the  lake. 

Cleveland,  30  miles.  It  is  the  capital  of  C  yahoga 
county,  and  is  handsomely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a 
creek  of  that  name.  From  a  small  village,  it  has  within 
a  few  years  attained  an  extraordinary  growth,  and  is  now 
one  of  the  most  prominent  towns  in  the  state.  This  may 
bo  attributed,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  termination  of 
the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal  at  this  place — thus  rendering  it 
not  only  a  point  of  great  commerce  with  the  lake,  but 
also  with  the  Ohio  rivor. 

The  entire  length  of  this  canal  is  307  miles.  Com- 
mencing  at  the  mouth  c^  the  Cuyahoga,  568  feet  above 
the  Ohio  river,  it  follows  the  bank  of  that  river  37  miles ; 
whence  it  crosses  Portage  summit  to  the  Tuscarawas 
river,  along  the  banks  of  which  it  descends  to  the  Tomoka 
creek.  Ascending  this  creek  for  a  short  distance,  it 
crosses  over  to  the  Licking  river,  a  branch  of  the  Muskin- 
gum, which  it  ascends  to  a  point  on  the  South  Fork,  a 
lew  miles  south  of  Newark ;  thence  it  crosses  over  to 
Walnut  creek,  a  small  stream  which  falls  into  tho  Scioto ; 


Nr 


CLEVELAND  TO  CINCINNATI. 


227 


lor.  Be- 
3  on  the 
Pennsyl- 
ittsburgh 
ittsburgh 


arbor  and 

of  Grand 

~  yahoga 
louth  of  a 
las  within 
,nd  is  now 
This  may 
lination  of 
ndering  it 
lake,  but 


?s. 


Com- 
eet  above 
37  miles ; 
uscarawas 
e  Tomoka 
istance,  it 
e  Miiskin- 
h  Fork,  a 
Bs  over  to 
ho  Scioto ; 


after  reaching  that  river,  it  descends  along  the  eastern 
bank  to  Circleville,  and  tliere  crosses  over  to  the  west 
bank,  along  which  it  descends,  passing  Chillicothe,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Scioto  at  Portsmouth.  Tlic  dimensions  are 
similar  to  those  of  the  New- York  and  Erie  canal.  Lock- 
age 1185  feet.  Packets  run  daily  un  the  canal,  reaching 
Portsmouth  in  about  3  1-2  days ;  where  steamboats  are 
taken  for  Cincinnati,  Louisville  and  New-Orleans.* 

*  To  travellers  who  design  an  excursion  to  Cincinnati, 
or  to  Columbus,  the  seat  of  government  of  the  state,  the 
following  table  of  distances  on  this  canal  will  bo  useful : 


Miles. 
From  Cleveland  to  the 
Cuyahoga   aqueduct,  22 

Old  Portage, 12 

Akron, 4 

New  Portage, « . .     5 

Clinton, 11 

Mazillow, 11 

Bethlehem, 6 

Bolivar, 8 

Zoar, 3 

Dover, 7 

N.  Philadelphia, 4 

New-Comor's  Town,  . .  22 


Miles. 

Irville, 26 

Newark, 13 

Hebron, 10 

Licking  Summit, 5 

Lancaster  Canaan, ....  11 

CoLUMHus,  (side  cut).,  18 

Bloomficld, 8 

CiRCLEVILLK, 9 

Chillicothe, 23 

Piketon 25 

Lucasvillc, 14 

Portsmouth,  (Ohio  riv- 
er,)    13 


Coshocton,  .•••••,....   17 

From  Portsmouth,  the  distance  by  steamboat  to  Cin- 
cinnati  is  113  miles,  as  follows  ;  Vanccburgh,  Ken.  20 — 
Manchester,  Ohio,  16 — Maysville,  Ken.  11 — Charleston, 
Ken.  4 — Ripley,  Ohio,  6 — Augusta,  Ken.  8 — Neville, 
Ohio,  7 — Moscow,  Ohio,  7 — Point  Pleasant,  Ohio,  4 — 
New  Richmond,  Ohio,  7 — Columbia,  Ohio,  15 — Fulton, 
Ohio,  6 — Cincinnati,  Ohio,  2.  From  the  latter  place  to 
Louisville,  Ken,,  the  distance  is  143  miles ;  thence  to 
the  junction  of  the  Ohio  with  the  Mississippi  river,  366; 
and  thence  to  New-Orleans,  1284  miles. 

u2 


jT^'f 


-r. 


-^- 


228 


AMHERSTBURGII. 


From  Cleveland  to  San  husky,  by  steamboat,  the  dis. 
tance  is  54  miles.  The  village  is  handsomely  located  on 
the  south  shore  of  Sandusky  Bay,  3  miles  from  its  en- 
trance, and  is  a  flourishing  town.  A  rail  road  is  con- 
structing from  this  place  to  Dayton,  on  the  Miami  canal. 
It  will  be  153  miles  long,  and  when  completed,  will  form 
a  rail  road  and  water  communication  between  Lake  Erie 
and  the  Ohio  river. 

Amiierstburgii,  Upper  Canada,  (mouth  of  the  Detroit 
river,)  52  miles.  It  was  more  particularly  known  during 
the  l?st  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain 
as  a  locality  of  some  importance  by  the  name  of  Maiden. 
On  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  shown  the  battle 
ground  of  Brownstown,  where  the  Americans,  under  dis- 
advantageous  circumstances,  and  with  a  sliglit  loss,  rout- 
ed the  British  force.  The  former  were  on  their  way  to 
relieve  the  fort  at,  Frenchtown,  a  short  distance  below ; 
and  in  a  narrow  pass,  where  escape  was  impossible,  the 
British  were  posted  to  receive  them.  The  artillery  of  the 
latter  was  stationed  directly  in  front  on  a  rise  command- 
ing  the  road ;  on  the  right  flank  were  the  regulars,  and 
on  the  leit  the  Indians,  secreted  in  the  woods.  The 
Americans,  under  Gen.  Miller,  approached  and  were  al- 
most  entrapped,  when  the  enemy  was  discovered.  With 
the  rapidity  of  thought,  the  regulars  were  charged,  and 
soon  driven  on  to  the  cannon — the  cannoniers,  afraid  to 
apply  the  match  against  their  own  friends,  threw  away 
their  linestocks  and  fled.  The  Indian  opponents  were 
soon  dispersed,  and  confusion  and  total  flight  ensued. 
The  Americans  collected  the  spoil,  and  pursued  their 
way ;  but  they  came  too  late.    The  massacre  at  French- 


w. 


» 


the  dis- 

lated  on 
its  en- 
is  con- 

li  canal. 

\rill  form 

aJte  Erie 

B  Detroit 
'n  during 
X  Britain 
'  Maiden. 
10  battle 
inder  dis- 
ioss,  rout- 
ir  way  to 
;e  below ; 
sible,  tlie 
cry  of  the 
ommand. 
liars,  and 
ds.    The 
were  al- 
d.    With 
srcd,  and 
afraid  to 
ew  away 
nts  were 
ensued, 
ued  their 
t  French- 


DETROIT. 


S29 


town  had  been  perpetrated  ;  and  the  bonca  of  seven  hun- 
dred of  the  noblest  sons  of  Kentucky  lay  bleaching  on 
the  earth,  the  victims  of  the  most  wanton  perfidy.  Their 
fate,  however,  was  soon  afterwards  avenged  at  the  battle 
of  the  Thames. 

Detroit  is  18  miles  from  Amlierstburgh.  In  natural 
beauty  and  advantages  of  locality,  it  is  surpassed  by  few 
cities  at  the  west.  The  greater  part  of  the  town  is  situa- 
ted on  a  bluff  terminating  a  few  feet  from  the  water,  in 
a  very  extensive  and  beautiful  plain.  As  the  boat  ap- 
proaches  the  city,  the  shores  display  a  succession  of  hand- 
some country  seats,  and  the  town  exhibits  an  imposing 
appearance.  Jefferson  Avenue,  extending  along  the  river 
abojt  a  mile  and  a  half,  with  its  neat  buildings,  shaded 
with  forest  trees,  its  bustle,  life  and  gay  equipages,  is 
justly  the  pride  of  every  inhabitant.  There  are  few 
streets,  indeed,  in  any  city  of  equal  beauty,  or  possessing 
greater  interest.  Formerly,  it  was  principally  lined  with 
low  French  dwellings ;  but  these  have  given  place  to 
those  of  modern  style  and  improved  architecture.  The 
business  and  population  of  the  city,  and  the  value  of  real 
estate  have  greatly  increased  within  a  few  years.  Its 
present  population  is  from  12,000  to  14,000. 

A  rail  road  nas  been  constructed  from  Detroit  to  Ypsi- 
lanti,  33  miles ;  whence  stages  arc  taken  for  Saint 
Joseph,  on  Lake  Michigan,  169  miles;  and  thence  to 
Chicago,  Illinois,  by  steamboat,  92  miles  farther.  The 
route,  by  stage,  is  over  what  is  termed  the  government 
road,  and  passes  through  the  village  of  Jonesville,  68 
miles  from  Ypsilanti;  Coldwater,  20  miles;  Sturge'« 
Prairie,  25   miles ;  Mottville,  17  miles ;   thence  to  the 


r 


'» 


yiM  I 


1*      1 


if 


230 


FROM  DKTROIT  TO  CHICAGO. 


II  .  - 


mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  is  40  miles.  Most  of  the  villages 
arc  new,  but  flourishing  ;  and  the  forests  arc  daily  giving 
place  to  cultivation. 

The  town  of  St.  Joseph,  located  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  (which  is  na\  igable  for  steamboats  for  50  miles)  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  population,  and  will  soon  become  a 
place  of  much  importance.  Its  harbor  is  good,  and  it  has 
been  selected  as  the  terminating  point  of  the  public  im- 
provements  which  are  to  extend  from  Detroit  across  the 
peninsula. 

Steamboats  also  leave  Detroit  once  a  fortnight,  byway 
of  Lake  Huron,  for  Chicago,  touching  on  the  route  at  the 
mouth  of  St.  Clair  river,  40  miles,  Palmer  17,  Fort 
Gratiot  14,  White  rock  40,  Thunder  Island  70,  Middle 
Island  25,  Presque  Isle  65,  Mackinaw  58,  Isle  Brule  75, 
Fort  Howard  (Wisconsin  Territory)  100,  and  Milwaukee 
(W.  T.)  310  miles ;  whence  to  Chicago  is  90  miles. 

But  the  more  common  route,  and  especially  for  those 
who  arc  desirous  of  visiting  Detroit  as  well  as  Chicago,  is 
to  take  a  steamboat  for  Toledo,  and  thence  complete  the 
excursion  by  rail  road,  stage  and  steamboat,  as  follows  : 


iiklli 


I 

■  .,'1  ki 


FROM    DZ:TR0IT    to    CHICAGO, 

Via  Toledo — 309  miles. 


Miles. 
By  steamboat. 

Detroit  to  Toledo, 71 

By  rail  road. 

Adrian, 33 

By  stage. 
Tecumseh, 10 


Miles. 
Niles...... 100 

Michigan  City,  (Ind.)     40 

By  steamboat. 
Chicago,  (Illinois,),,.     55 


Toledo,  71   miles  from   Detroit,  is  the   terminating 
point  of  the  steamboat  passage.    It  is  located  on  the 


ADRIAN — MICHIGAN  CITY. 


231 


Maumee  river,  nine  miles  from  its  junction  with  Lake 
Erie,  and  is  within  what  his  heretofore  been  termed  the 
disputed  territory  between  Ohio  and  Michigan.  In  1834, 
the  space  now  occupied  for  the  village,  with  a  slight  ex- 
ception, was  a  dense  forest.  Now  it  numbers  between 
three  and  four  thousand  inhabitants.  From  its  locction, 
it  cannot  be  otherwise  than  a  place  of  much  importance. 

Adrian,  33  miles,  is  the  present  termination  of  the  rail 
road. 

Tecumseh,  10  miles  farther,  is  a  flourishing  village  of 
between  two  and  three  thousand  inhabitants.  Between 
Tecumseh  and 

NiLES,  which  is  100  miles,  there  are  very  few  villages 
of  importance.  The  country,  however,  is  rapidly  improv- 
ing, and  will  ere  long  be  settled  with  an  extensive  popu- 
lation. The  village  of  Niles  is  located  on  the  St.  Joseph's 
river,  and  contains  a  poulation  of  about  1500  inhabitants. 

Michigan  City  (Indiana)  is  40  miles  farther,  and  is 
the  termination  of  the  stage  route,  (unless  the  traveller 
prefers  passing  around  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
lake.)  The  town  is  situated  on  the  south-eastern  corner 
of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Trail  creek,  in  a  glen, 
surrounded  by  sand  hills.  It  is  the  only  point  where  any 
stream  of  magnitude  from  Indiana  communicates  with 
the  Lake,  and  consequently  the  only  spot  where,  by  any 
possibihty,  she  can  build  a  city.  In  1834,  the  place  con- 
tained only  a  solitary  family ;  now  it  has  a  population  0£ 
1500,  and  its  business  operations  are  ([uite  extensive.  It 
is  the  commercial  depot  for  the  entire  north  of  Indiana — 
her  emporium — and  the  great  mart  for  her  produce.     A 


*    ,  ^3 


-^' 


n 


232 


CHICAGO. 


I 


lfl| 


canal  from  this  place,  to  unite  with  the  Wabash  and  Erie 
canal  at  Fort  Wayne,  on  the  Maumee,  is  in  progress. 
From  Michigan  city  to 

Chicago,  (Illinois,)  the  distance  across  the  lake  is  55 
miles.  It  is  located  on  the  Chicago  river,  at  its  junction 
with  the  lake,  at  that  precise  point  on  the  great  chain  of 
northern  lakes  which  is  most  nearly  approached  by  the 
Mississippi  river.  The  Illinois  river,  through  one  of  its 
branches,  approaches  within  10  miles  of  Chicago.  Through 
its  whole  course,  from  near  the  junction  of  the  two 
streams,  by  which  it  is  formed  to  its  mouth,  navigation  is 
unimpeded ;  and  when  connected  with  the  waters  of  the 
great  chain  of  lakes  by  the  lUinois  and  Michigan  canal, 
whose  commencement  was  celebrated  on  the  4th  of  July, 
183G,  a  line  of  internal  cominunication  between  the  wa- 
ters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi  will  be  completed, 
which  must  be  the  vehicle  of  a  vast  commerce,  bearing 
the  mineral  and  agricultural  resources  of  one  of  the  most 
fertile  regions  of  the  Union  to  an  eastern  market,  and  re. 
compensing  the  producer  of  the  west  with  the  comforts 
and  luxuries  of  other  and  distant  climes.  Chicago  must 
of  necessity  be  the  thoroughfare  of  this  commercial  inter- 
course  ;  and  to  this  calculation,  though  but  recently  made, 
may  be  attribute -1  its  unparalleled  growth.  In  1833,  there 
were  but  a  few  scattering  tenements  in  the  place,  and  on- 
ly four  or  five  arrivals  from  the  lower  lakes.  In  1836,  the 
number  amounted  to  456,  the  buildings  to  more  than 
1000,  and  the  population  to  nearly  5000.  It  already  con- 
tains 7  or  8  churches,  a  bank,  and  a  marine  and  fire  in- 
surance company  ;  and  its  stores,  warehouses  and  public 
buildings  are  continually  augmenting. 


»# 


CHICAGO. 


233 


id  Erie 
rogress. 

ke  is  55 
I  unction 
;hain  of 
[  by  the 
le  of  its 
riirough 
the  two 
gation  is 
rs  of  the 
in  canal, 
1  of  July, 
I  the  wa- 
Dmpleted, 
,  bearing 
the  most 
t,  and  re. 
comforts 
lago  must 
Icial  inter- 
itly  made, 
;33,  there 
I,  and  on- 
1836,  the 
tore  than 
•cady  con- 
d  fire  in- 
Ind  public 


Steamboats  leave  Chicago  daily  for  various  ports  on  the 
lake;  a  visit  to  none  of  wh.ch,  for  a  short  excursion,  will 
prove  more  interesting  than  that  of  Milwaukee,  (Wis- 
consin Territory,)  90  miles  in  a  northerly  direction.  It 
is  the  largest  town  in  the  territory,  though,  like  most  of 
the  western  villages,  its  origin  is  very  recent.  In  1835,  it 
was  scarcely  known.  During  the  following  year,  it  num- 
bered 1300  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Milwaukee  river,  and  must,  in  time,  in  consequence  of 
the  fertility  of  the  soil  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  and  the 
advantages  which  it  possesses  of  a  fine  natural  harbor,  be 
one  of  the  most  important  cities  of  the  west. 

Stages  leave  Chicago  daily  for  Galena,  (the  locality  of 
the  celebrated  lead  mines,)  100  miles  west,  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  to  which  a  rail  road  is  contemplated. 

Stages  also  leave  daily  in  a  S.  W.  direction,  for  Peru,  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  IHinois  river,  passing 
through  Juliette,  a  flourishing  village,  30  miles  distant ; 
Ottawa,  at  the  junction  of  the  Fox  river  with  the  Illinois, 
53  miles  farther ;  whence  to  Peru  is  17  miles.    This  is  to 
be  the  terminating  point  of  a  canal  from  Chicago,  and 
also  cf  what  is  termed  the  central  rail  road,  commencing 
near  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  with  the  Mississippi  liver, 
and  must  become  an  important  town.     From  Peru,  steam- 
boats are  taken  for  Peoria,  60  miles  distant ;  also  for  Al- 
ton, on  the  Mississippi,  (3  miles  above  the  mouth  '^f  the 
Missouri,)  149  miles  farther ;  whence  to  St.  Louis  is  21 
miles.     At  Alton  a  stage  can  be  taken  daily,  for  Vandalia, 
50  miles,  in  an  easterly  direction.     From  Vandalia,  down 
the  Kaskaskia  river,  to  the  village  of  that  name,  is  95 
miles ;  thence  to  the  junction  of  the  Kaskaskia  with  the 


IP 


(! 


«$  ' 


234 


BUFFALO  TO  MONTREAL. 


Mississippi  is  11  miles ;  and  thence  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio  river,  100  miles.  g 


FROM  BUFFALO  TO  MONTREAL, 

Via  Lake  Ontario^  on  the  British  side,  451  miles- 

Fare  $19,50. 

INTERMEDIATE  DISTANCES. 

Miles. 


Miles. 
Dickinson's  Land- 
ing,      38  349 

By  stage. 

Cornwall, 12  361 

By  steamboat, 

Coteau  du  Lac, . .     41  402 

By  stage. 

Cascades, 16  418 

By  steamboat. 

Laehine, 24  443 

By  ''*%ge. 
Montreal, 9  451 


By  rail  road. 
From  Buffalo  to  Nia- 

gara  Falls, 22 

Lewiston, 7    29 

By  steamboat. 
Fort  George, ....       7     36 

Toronto, 30     66 

Port  Hope, 65  131 

Coburg 7  138 

Kingston, 105  243 

Gananoque, 24  267 

Brockville, 32  299 

Prescott, 12  311 

The  route  from  Buffalo  to   Fort  George  has  already 
been  described.     (See  p.  205.) 

Lake  Ontario.     (See  p.  203.) 

Toronto,  30  miles  from  Fort  George,  is  the  capital 
and  chief  city  of  Upper  Canada,  and  is  situated  in  the 
west  riding  of  York,  in  the  Home  district,  on  an  arm  of 
Lake  Ontario,  36  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from 
Niagara,  and  177  miles  southwesterly  from  Kingston. 
The  city  has  a  commanding  view  of  the  harbor,  which  is 
formed  by  a  long  narrow  peninsula,  3  miles  in  extent, 
and  frequently  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit  a  carriage ; 
striking  the  traveller  as  an  artificial  breakwater,  for  which 


.-^.    4 


f  the 


Miles. 
38  349 
12  361 
*41  402 


9  451 

already 


TORONTO — PORT  HOPE. 


235 


it  is  frequently  mistaken.  It  is  perhaps  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  in  the  world — perfectly  safe  at  all  times,  and  so 
capacious  that  a  thousand  ships  of  the  line  may  ride  at 
anchor  within  it.  The  population  of  Toronto  is  12,500. 
The  buildings  are  principally  of  brick,  and  the  city  gen- 
erally has  the  appearance  of  enterprise  and  prosperity. 
It  is  an  important  military  post,  two  regiments  of  regular 
troops  being  usually  stationed  there.  The  public  build- 
ings, including  the  residence  of  the  Lieut.  Governor,  Par- 
liament House,  &c.,  are  very  handsome  specimens  of 
modern  architecture,  and  worthy  the  attention  of  the 
tourist.  There  are  several  good  hotels,  the  principal  of 
which  is  the  North  American,  kept  by  Mr.  Campbell. 
Daily  lines  of  steamboats  cross  the  head  of  the  lake  to 
Niagara  and  Queenston,  and  down  the  lake  to  Kingston, 
touching  at  the  intermediate  ports.*  Taking  the  steamer 
down  the  lake,  the  first  landing  is 

Port  Hope,  a  small  town,  beautifully  situated  on  ei- 
ther side  of  the  river  of  the  same  name.  It  has  a  popu- 
lation of  1500  inhabitants,  dispersed  upon  a  number  of  hills, 
giving  it  an  irregular  but  highly  picturesque  appearance. 


*  While  at  Niagara,  the  tourist  will  be  at  liberty  either 
to  cross  the  Lake  direct  to  Toronto,  or  take  a  steamer  by 
the  head  of  Burlington  Bay,  touching  at  Hamilton  and 
Dundas,  and  thence  to  Toronto.  This  latter  route  will 
nearly  double  the  distance,  but  he  will  be  amply  compen- 
sated by  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  on  both  sides  of  the 
bay ;  besides  being  enabled  to  add  to  his  Sketch  Book, 
"  Hamilton  and  Dundas,"  the  former  of  which  is  the  re- 
sidence of  Sir  Allan  McNab,  the  present  Speaker  of  the 
Upper  Canada  Parliament,  and  is  a  town  of  unsurpassing 
beauty,  containing  some  1200  inhabitants. 


IP* 

■•!'i  Mil 


\'h 


'^4    '    r 


'J 

J-Ci  ^^ 


>r. 


i 


I 


111 


f        tl 

\4 


ri 


236 


CO BURG. 


^i 


Here  are  five  churches  and  several  hotels.  Of  the  latter 
httlc  can  be  said  in  their  praise — the  Royal  Hotel,  for- 
merly a  very  good  house,  having  been  changed  to  a  pri- 
vate residence. 

Port  Hope  river  is  a  small  rapid  stream,  w^hich  aifords 
great  facilities  for  hydraulic  works,  which  arc  improved  to 
a  considerable  extent.  A  survey  for  a  canal  and  slack- 
water  navigation  up  this  river  to  Rice  Lake  has  been 
made,  and  the  work  will  probably  be  constructed.  A  com- 
pany called  the  "  Port  Hope  Harbor  Company,"  recently 
engaged  in  constructing  wharves,  and  deepening  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  have  succeeded  in  making  it  one  of 
the  best  harbors  on  the  lake,  admitting  ships  of  the  lar- 
gest class.     Seven  miles  further,  the  boat  reaches 

CoBURG,  a  pretty  provincial  town,  and  the  seat  of  jus- 
tice for  New-Castle  district,  situated  on  a  plain  slightly 
elevated  above  the  lake ;  the  buildings  chiefly  of  wood, 
painted  white,  and  looking  any  thing  but  like  a  seaport. 
Indeed,  it  can  hardly  be  called  such,  as  there  is  no  natu 
ral  harbor,  and  the  piers  or  wharves  stretching  into  the 
lake  are  continually  being  demolished  by  the  violence  of 
the  waves,  so  that  vessels  unlading  at  Coburg  frequently 
seek  shelter  in  Port  Hope  harbor  in  case  of  threatened 
storms.  It  has  a  population  of  2000  ;  but  which  is  not 
rapidly  augmenting.  Here  are  several  excellent  hotels — 
the  Albion  and  North  American  being  considered  the 
best.  The  village  also  contains  a  respectable  seminary, 
a  Methodist  college,  and  a  court  house  and  jail.  The 
latter  is  built  of  hewn  stone,  with  a  collonade  front,  and 
has  altogether  an  imposing  appearance. 


*•• 


KINGSTON. 


237 


slattef 
el,  for- 
)  a  pri- 

affords 
oved  to 
1  slack- 
as  been 

A  com- 
recently 
ling  the 
t  one  of 

the  lar- 
es 

at  of  jus- 
a  slightly 
of  wood, 
seaport, 
no  natu 
into  the 
^olcnce  of 
i-equently 
[ireatened 
[ch  is  not 
hotels — 
lered  the 
;eminary, 
lail.    The 
front,  and 


A  steamer  runs  3  timers  a  week  from  Toronto  to  the 
mouth  of  Genesee  river,  on  the  American  side,  touching 
at  Port  Hope  and  Cohurg.  Tlic  (lictance  here  across  is 
80  miles,  being  the  widest  part  of  the  lake.  A  new  hne 
of  steamers  is  in  contemplation  from  Oswego  direct  to 
Toronto,  making  Coburg  and  Port  Hope  on  the  way. 
This  would  be  a  very  desirable  arrangement  for  travellers 
who  do  not  wish  to  go  to  Kingston. 

Leaving  Coburg,  and  travelling  105  miles  in  a  north- 
easterly direction,  the  boat  arrives  at 

Kingston,  the  oldest  port  and  the  second  town  in  point 
of  population  in  Upper  Canada,  containing  about  7000 
inhabitants.  The  buildings  are  principally  of  blue,  un- 
dressed limestone,  of  which  there  are  inexhaustible  quar- 
ries in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Kingston  is  the  great 
military  and  naval  depot  of  the  Upper  Province.  It  is 
situated  on  the  northerly  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  near  its 
outlet,  in  the  county  of  Frontenac,  in  the  Midland  dis- 
trict. The  harbor  is  formed  by  a  promontory  running  in- 
to the  lake  opposite  the  city,  which  is  called  Point  Fred- 
erick, upon  which  is  the  navy  yard  and  extensive  ware- 
houses for  public  stores,  &c.  Between  this  and  Point 
Henry,  (the  main  land)  is  another  harbor,  called  Navy 
Harbor.  The  fort,  which  is  built  of  massive  blocks  of 
stone,  hammer-dressed,  is  on  this  last  mentioned  point — a 
little  removed  from  the  sliore,  and  so  elevated  as  not  only 
to  command  the  entrance  to  both  tlie  harbors,  but  also 
the  navy  yard,  and  all  approach  to  the  city  by  land.  Next 
to  Quebec,  it  is  undoubtedly  the  most  impregnable  fortress 
in  America. 


'i  '  iff 


■HL 

m. 


i       k 


it|i  Jill 

.  ■:■;/* 


^'t' 


h 


238 


BELLVILLE — BAY  OF  QUINTE. 


fl 


,  I 


m 


fy  >*" 


Tho  fort  and  navy  yard  on  the  points,  and  the  mem 
house  and  barracks  on  tho  northeast  side  of  the  town,  arc 
worth  the  attention  of  tho  tourist,  and  may  be  seen  by 
procuring  an  order  from  the  sheriff  of  the  district  or  the 
commandant  of  the  station. 

The  British  American  Hotel  and  the  Lambton  House 
are  amonpf  the  best  hotels  which  the  place  affords. 

The  Commercial  Bank  of  Kinjjston,  the  court  house 
and  jail,  the  Catholic  chapel,  and  many  private  residences 
built  of  native  limestone,  are  not  only  substantial  but  el- 
egant buildings. 

Kingston  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  its  natural  location  is 
such  as  to  render  it  the  commercial  capital  of  Upper  Can- 
ada.* Steamers  leave  the  port  daily  for  Coburg,  Port 
Hope,  Toronto,  &c.  up  the  lake,  and  for  Brockvillc  and 
Prescott,  down  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  is  also  a  tri- 
weekly line  to  Oswego,  by  the  way  of  Sackett's  Harbor, 
and  a  line  thence  twice  a  week  directly  across  the  lake,  a 
distance  of  60  miles.     (Fare  $2,50,  by  either  route.) 

A  boat  likewise  leaves  every  day  for  Bellville,  up  the 
Bay  of   Quintet    The  traveller,  who  can  devote  the 

*The  present  political  changes  going  on  in  Canada,  in- 
dicate a  cons^olidation  of  the  two  Provinces,  in  which 
event  a  more  central  point  for  the  seat  of  government 
than  either  of  the  present  capitals  would  be  desirable,  and 
it  is  not  improbable  that  Kingston,  at  no  remote  period, 
may  become  the  capital  of  the  United  Provinces. 

t  The  Bay  of  Quinte,  so  called,  is  in  fact  rather  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Trent,  or  Otonibee,  than  a  bay  of  Lake 
Ontario ;  as  it  has  a  perceptible  current,  and  no  commu- 
nication with  the  lake  for  many  miles  after  it  widens  into 
a  bay.    The  River  Trent,  or  Otonibee,  is  the  outlet  of  a 


^,/. 


RIDEAU  ANU  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


239 


le    HiCflB 

3vvn,  are 
seen  by 
;t  or  the 

n  House 

rt  house 
^sidenccs 
ail  but  cl- 

3cation  is 
iper  Can- 
urg,  Port 
tvillc  and 
ilso  a  til- 
ls Harbor, 

le  lake,  a 

utc.) 

,E,  up  the 

vote  the 


time,  cannot  do  better  than  make  a  trip  to  Brllvillo.  The 
distance  by  land  is  59  miles — by  water,  somcwliat  fur- 
ther.  The  latter  route  seems  to  be  jm'fcrred  on  account 
of  its  ever-varyinjif  scenery.  Now  the  silvery  bay  ex- 
pands to  th(>  dimensions  of  a  broad  lake  ;  anon  it  l)econies 
so  narrow  that  you  fancy  your  projrress  intercepted  by 
the  proximity  of  the  shores  and  tlie  impenetrable  ploom 
of  the  eternal  forest.  Here  on  the  left  you  see  the  plains 
of  Prince  Edward,  stretching;  away  in  "dizziness  of 
distance,"  and  there  on  the  right,  the 

l|                 "  Woods  and  cornfields,  and  the  abodes  of  men, 
"  Scattered  at  intervals," 

of  the  fine  agricultural  counties  of  Hastings  and  Fronte- 
nac.  In  a  fi'V,'  hours  you  reacli  BellviUe,  a  pleasant  town, 
situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  and  near  the  mouth 
of  the  River  Moira,  containing  about  250  dwelling  houses, 
and  from  1000  to  1500  inhabitants.  You  can  return  to 
Kingston  by  boat,  the  following  day. 

While  enumerating  the  advantages,  natural  and  artifi. 
cial,  possessed  by  Kingston,  we  should  not  overlook  the 

RiDKAU  AND  Ottawa  Canal.  This  stupendous  work, 
which  was  constructed  at  the  expense  of  the  home  gov- 
ernment, forms  an  inland  communication  between  King, 
ston  and  Montreal  for  vessels  of  125  tons  burthen.  One 
object  of  its  construction,  was  to  secure  the  transporta- 
tion in  time  of  war,  of  arms  and  military  stores  to  and 
from  these  important  points,  by  a  route  far  removed  from 


long   chain  of  lakes  in  the  northeast  country,  towards 
Lake  Huron,  and  which  falls  into   Lake  Ontario,  near 


Kingston. 


v2 


■i'l*- 


t  '^ 

.  ■  MS 


m 


*'iW 


I 


I 


240 


RIDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


li    '! 
i 

i 


^i 


Ml 

...il 


the  hostile  frontier.  The  entire  length  of  the  canal  from 
Kingston  to  Bytown,  where  it  enters  the  Ottawa  river,  is 
160  miles.  The  Rideau  Lake  and  River  are  used  alter- 
nately  as  found  ])racticable,  so  that  not  to  exceed  one 
fourth  of  the  entire  distance,  is  an  actual  excavation. 
From  the  junction  of  the  canal  with  the  Ottawa  river  at 
Bytown  to  Montreal,  the  distance  is  120  miles.  The  Ot- 
tawa  or  Grand  river  is  the  outlet  of  a  vast  extent  of  coun- 
try (watered  by  numerous  lakes  and  smaller  streams,) 
having  its  source  far  towards  Hudson's  Bay,  and  whose 
embauchere  is  divided  into  two  branches  by  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  where  it  enters  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  dis- 
charge of  the  Rideau  into  the  Ottawa,  is  marked  by  an 
extensive  cove  on  the  right  bank  of  the  latter  river,  in  a 
gulley  existing  between  the  falls  of  the  Chaudiere  and 
Rideau.  This  point  appears  to  have  been  reserved  by  na- 
ture for  the  purpose  to  which  it  is  adapted  ;  and,  indeed, 
bears  every  characteristic,  both  as  to  its  banks  and  valley, 
of  having  been  formerly  the  bed  of  the  Rideau.  The  ele- 
vation of  the  mouth  of  the  canal  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  is  estimated  at  110  feet,  while  it  is  considered  to  be 
283  feet  bclovv'^  the  summit  level  on  "  Rideau  Lake,"  and 
129  below  the  level  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  Kingston. 

Directly  above  the  mouth  of  the  canal,  may  be  seen  the 
beautiful  and  magnificent  cataract  of  the  Chaudiere.  It 
consists  of  a  series  of  falls,  more  or  less  extensive,  and 
amounting  in  all  to  31  1-2  feet  perpendicular.  But  that 
which  stands  most  prominent  to  view,  and  gives  an  ap- 
pearance of  grandeur  to  the  whole,  is  at  the  broadest 
channel  of  the  river,  and  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Grande  Chaudiere,  or  Big  Ktttle,  from  the  peculiar  for- 


ff 


RIDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


241 


il  from 
iver,  is 
d  alter- 
,ed  one 
Lvation. 
river  at 
riie  Ot- 
3f  coun- 
reams,) 
I  whose 
island  of 
rhe  dis- 
d  by  an 
ver,  in  a 
iere  and 
id  by  na- 
indeed, 
d  valley, 
iThe  ele- 
1  of  the 
d  to  be 
e,"  and 

Iseen  the 

lerc.     It 

tvc,  and 

Jut  that 

an  ap- 

jroadest 

of  th(; 

Ihar  for- 


mation of  the  cauldron  into  which  the  waters  fall.  This 
formation  consists  of  a  hard  laminated  lime-stone,  in  hori- 
zontal strata,  and  worn  into  its  present  horse-shoe  shape 
by  the  constant  abrasion  of  the  rolling  water  over  its  sur- 
face. The  depth  of  the  cauldron  is  said  to  be  over  three 
hundred  feet — at  least,  a  sounding  line  of  that  length 
could  not  be  made  to  touch  bottom. 

Next  in  interest  to  these  may  be  mentioned  the  cata- 
ract of  the  Rideau,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  its  dark  green  waters  fall  from  an  eminence  of  37 
feet,  in  a  single  unbroken  sheet.  The  river  finds  its 
source  in  the  Rideau  Lake,  85  miles  from  tlie  Ottawa, 
but  is  not  occupied  as  the  bed  of  the  canal  till  about  6 
miles  above  its  entrance,  it  having  been  found  more  ex- 
pedient to  make  use  of  the  natural  valley  and  bay  already 
alluded  to. 

At  this  point  it  became  necessary,  in  consequence  of 
the  rugged  and  precipitate  nature  of  the  banks  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, to  overcome  the  difference  of  level  between  the 
river  and  canal  by  the  construction  of  a  series  of  locks, 
eight  in  number,  and  each  rising  ten  feet,  giving  an  ag- 
gregate of  eighty  feet  perpendicular  rise  ;  constructed  in 
a  liberal  workmanlike  manner,  and  presenting  an  elegant 
and  commanding  appearance.  The  estimated  cost  was 
£45,700.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  locks  are  two  spacious 
basins  for  the  reception  of  boats  ;  over  one  of  which  there 
is  a  stone  arch,  connecting  Upper  and  Lower  Bytown. 

About  seventy  miles  of  the  route  passes  iiirough  either 
extensive  lakes  with  bold  and  rocky  shores,  or  soft 
swampy  meadows,  where  good  foundations  were  unat- 
tainable, save  at  great  additional  expense.    Hence  it  be- 


■I  %  -ii 


il 


\  i 


...  'iii 


'  n  .!■ 


.5. 


■^ 


.m 


'I 


242 


lllDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


came  necessary  to  do  away  with  the  ordinary  towing 
path,  and  enlarge  the  canal  to  a  surface  of  48  feet,  with 
a  depth  of  5  feet  throughout,  to  admit  the  passage  of 
steamboats  from  one  extremity  to  the  other. 

The  towns  of  Upper  and  Lower  By,  so  named  after  tlie 
commandant  of  engineers,  Lieut.  Col.  John  By,  under 
whose  superintendence  the  works  were  constructed,  have 
already  assumed  a  character  and  importance  which, 
when  their  brief  existence  is  taken  into  consideration,  is 
truly  marvellous.  The  towns  already  contain,  in  addi- 
tion to  their  numerous  dwelling-houses,  two  large  store- 
houses for  the  use  of  the  Ordnance  and  Commissariat 
Departments  ;  three  substantial  buildings  for  the  accom- 
modation  of  the  troops,  erected  on  the  highest  eminence, 
so  as  to  command  both  the  river  and  canal ;  and  at  a 
short  distance  an  excellent  military  hospital. 

In  the  vicinity  may  also  be  seen,  in  the  "  Union 
Bridge,"  the  execution  of  one  of  the  most  daring  plans 
ever  conceived.  It  connects  LTppcr  with  Lower  Cana- 
da, and  is  thrown  directly  over  the  falls  of  the  Chaudiere, 
taking  advantage  of  the  numerous  rocky  islands  embrac- 
ed by  the  diverging  branches  of  the  river  at  this  place ; 
and  forming  altogether  a  most  magnificent  and  imposing 
specimen  of  civil  architecture.  The  bridge  is  composed 
of  six  distinct  arches,  two  of  stone  and  four  of  wood, 
stretching  from  island  to  island  with  various  spans,  as  cir- 
cumstances njquired ;  and  forming  an  aggregate  length 
of  bridge-way  of  781  feet.  Taking  leave  of  Bytown  and 
its  vicinity,  and  proceeding  along  the  line  until  it  strikes 
the  river,  little  of  interest  occurs  saving  a  singular  break 
in  an  interesting  ridge  of  land,  extending  for  several  miles 


h 

an 

W( 


f,H| 


RIDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


243 


towing 
t,  with 
sage  of 

fter  the 
,  under 
d,  have 

which, 
ition,  is 
in  addi- 
e  store- 
lissariat 

accom- 
ainence, 
ind  at  a 


c 


**  Union 
g  plans 
Cana- 
audierc, 
embrac- 
place ; 
nposing 
)mposcd 
wood, 
,  as  cir- 
2  Icncjth 
wn  and 
strilics 
r  break 
al  rniles 


itt  an  average  depth  of  about  thirty-five  feet.  It  is 
known  under  the  name  of  the  "  Notch  in  the  Mountain," 
and  affords  an  opportune  passage  for  the  canal,  which 
would  otherwise,  in  order  to  pass  it,  have  had  to  encoun- 
ter a  heavy  excavation. 

At  the  point  where  the  canal  enters  the  channel  of  the 
river,  are  found  strong  rapids,  confined  on  one  side  by  a 
high  clay  bank,  and  on  the  other  by  a  rocky  shore.  To 
overcome  the  fall  existing  here,  which  is  about  30  feet,  it 
was  necessary  to  drown  the  rapids  by  the  erection  of  a 
large  dam,  and  surmount  the  elevation  by  three  locks. 
This  dam  backs  the  water  as  far  as  the  "  Black  Rapids" 
— to  which  point,  and  indeed  thence  all  the  way  to  its 
source  in  the  "  Rideau  Lake,"  the  channel  of  the  river 
continues  to  be  used.  The  Rideau,  like  other  rivers  in 
Canada,  is  a  combination  of  rapids  and  long  sheets  of  still 
water,  alternately  intervening,  and  to  overcome  which  it 
is  ever  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  locks  and  dams. 
There  are  fourteen  rapids  between  Bytown  and  the 
Rideau  Lake,  which  are  destroyed  by  as  many  dams,  and 
20  locks  of  various  lifts,  amounting  in  all  to  283  feet. 

The  "  Rideau  Lake,"  which  ia  the  proper  summit  of 
the  canal,  is  a  beautiful  expanse  of  clear  green  water,  30 
miles  long  and  12  broad,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  bold, 
rocky  and  precipitous  banks.  The  only  interruptions 
which  the  navigation  encounters  across  this  lake  are  at 
"Oliver's  Ferry"  and  the  "Rideau  Narrows,"  where 
considerable  extra  expense  was  incurred  to  overcome  the 
currents  there  created  by  the  contraction  of  the  waters. 

Continuing  the  use  of  the  Rideau  waters  for  the  space 
of  45  miles  on  the  summit  level  of  the  route,  its  courst 


ii'.'  'i 


'?; 


I 


if 
I 

ill 


d 


244 


RIDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


finally  bends  towards  the  *'  Cataraqui  River,"  which  haa 
an  outlet  in  Lake  Ontario  near  Kingston.  An  excavation 
of  1 0  feet  for  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  across  the 
isthmus,  existing  between  the  "  Ridcau"  and  "  Mud" 
lakes,  was  necessary  to  effect  this  object.  The  latter 
lake  is  3  1-2  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Rideau,  and  has 
a  length  of  12  miles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  10,  stud- 
ded all  over  with  innumerable  small  islands,  which  give  it 
quite  a  picturesque  appearance.  It  is  intended  eventually 
to  raise  the  waters  to  the  level  of  the  summit  lake. 

Leaving  this  lake,  the  canal  enters  tiic  '*  Indian,"  and 
thence,  instead  of  making  the  long  detour  of  the  river, 
encounters  a  shallow  cut.  by  which,  in  a  more  direct  line, 
the  distance  is  considerably  j^liortened.  Thence  following 
the  course  of  the  "  Cataraqui"  to  within  55  miles  of  King. 
ston,  a  dam  is  met  with,  backing  the  waters  as  far  as  the 
last  mentioned  lake.  The  rapids  connecting  this  with 
"  Davis'  Lake,"  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  are  sur- 
mounted by  dams  and  locks,  so  that  the  navigation,  which 
was  before  hazardous,  is  now  perfectly  safe. 

Again,  following  the  course  of  the  "  Cataraqui  river" 
for  the  further  distance  of  eight  miles,  and  successively 
passing  "  Davis"  and  "  Opinicon"  lakes,  together  with 
their  intervening  rapids,  surmounted  as  usual  by  a  dam 
and  lock,  the  tourist  arrives  at  a  point  called  *' Jones' 
Falls,"  35  miles  from  Kingston.  These  falls  descend  61 
feet  within  the  mile,  and  connect  "  Opinicon  Lake"  with 
"  Cranberry  Marsh,"  where  the  river  holds  its  course 
through  a  narrow  rocky  ravine.  This  fall  is  overcome 
by  a  dam  and  six  locks.  Thence,  passing  three  more 
smaller  rapids,  with  their  customary  works,  the  line  at 


tar 


tic  ; 


Vb 


RIDEAU  AND  OTTAWA  CANAL. 


245 


ich  hae 
avation 
ross  the 
■'  Mud" 
3   latter 
and  has 
0,  stud- 
h.  give  it 
entually 

Ik 
J* 

xn,"  and 
le  river, 
rect  hne, 
following 
of  King- 
ar  as  the 
this  with 
are  sur- 
>n,  which 

[ui  river" 
cessively 
ler   with 
»y  a  dam 
"  Jones' 
scend  61 
kc"  with 
s  course 
(verconie 
tee  more 
line  at 


length  reaches  "  Kingston  Mills,"  where  the  Cataraqui 
empties  itself  into  the  Kingston  Bay,  a  part  of  Lake  On- 
tario, and  five  miles  distant  from  Kingston.  This  is  tho 
upper  extremity  of  the  canal  on  the  Canada  side,  and  is 
terminated  at  its  junction  with  Lake  Ontario  by  the  crec- 
tic  1  of  four  locks  of  nine  feet  each. 

The  entire  cost  of  this  canal,  which  with  the  Welland 
canal  (heretofore  noticed)  forms  a  chain  of  ir.ternal  com- 
munication between  Halifax  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  was 
rising  of  ^600,000. 

The  direct  route  from  King^ionto  Montreal,  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,   has  been  so  often  described  as  scarcely  to 
require  a  passing  notice  beyond  a  mere  sketch  of  places 
and  distances;  still  the  route  is  not  barren  of  interest 
to  one  who  travels   it  for  the   first  time.     The  alter- 
nating  between   steamers    and    stage  coaches,   render- 
ed necessary  by  the  frequent  rapids    in  the    St.   Law- 
rence, rcheves  the  tedium  occasioned  by  the  continuation 
of  either.     The  roads,  in  such  parts  of  the  route  as  are 
over  land,  are  generally  good  ;  most  of  the  country  lying 
along  tlie  river  being  improved  farms,  many  of  which  are 
in  a  hiffh  state  of  cultivation.     The  scener^'  in  several 
places  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  commanding  for  the  most 
part  a  view  of  tho  St.  Lawrence  with  its  rapids,  which 
are  not  only  remarkable  for   their  number  but  also   for 
their  extent.     Some  of  them  are  several  miles  long,  and 
the  current  at  the  rate  of  30  knots  an  hour ;  the  water 
foaming  and  tumbling  over  its  rocky  bed,  and  to  use  a 
simile  of  Mrs.  Jameson,  very  like  a  herd  of  young  tigers  at 
play. 


'    \W: 


'M 


■  J 


rk:,.... 


246 


CALEDONIA  SPRINGS. 


« 


m 


il 


B!   I 


l<  t 


The  only  places  of  note  between  Kingston  and  Montreal 
are  Gananoque,  Brockville,  Prescott,  Williamsburg,  Corn- 
wall, Lancaster,  Cotcau  du  Lac  and  Lacliine;  all  small 
provincial  towns,  of  which  Brockville  and  Frescott*  are 
the  most  important,  with  a  mixed  population,  the  trades- 
men and  artisans  being  mostly  Enghsh,  Irish  or  Scotch, 
and  the  poorer  classes  native  hahitans  or  Canadians. 

The  traveller,  whether  in  pursuit  of  pleasure  or  health, 
while  on  his  way  from  Kingston  to  Montreal  or  uice  versa, 
whether  he  take  the  route  by  the  Kideau  and  Ottawa 
canal,  or  the  more  direct  one  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  will 
do  well  to  visit  the 

Caledonia  SniiNGS,  which  are  located  near  the  Grand 
river,  in  the  Ottawa  district,  70  miles  westerly  of  Mon- 
treal, and  125,  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  from  Kingston. 
They  maybe  approached  from  Cornwall,  on  the  St.  Law- 

*It  was  at  Prescott,  on  the  12th  Nov.  1838,  (the  year 
following  the  rebellion  of  the  French  population  in  the 
lower  province,)  that  a  band  of  brigands,  chiefly  Ameri- 
cans, about  180  in  number,  commanded  by  a  refugee  Pole 
named  Van  Shultz,  crossed  the  St.  Lawrence  and  effect- 
ed a  landing,  under  cover  of  the  night,  at  the  Windmill, 
a  stone  edifice  just  below  the  town,  of  which  they  took 
possession.  They  were  here  kept  in  check  by  the  provin- 
cial militia,  until  despatches  could  be  sent  to  Brockville 
for  troops  and  heavy  artillery.  On  the  morning  of  the 
13th,  a  sinmltaneous  attack,  by  land  and  water,  was  made 
upon  the  brigands  in  the  wind  mill,  which  resulted  in  the 
capture  of  all  who  survived  the  conflict.  Van  Shultz 
and  his  comrades  were  taken  to  Kingston,  where  himself 
and  5  of  his  officers  were  tried  and  executed,  several  were 
transported  for  hfe,  and  the  remainder,  through  the  clem- 
ency of  the  government,  were  pardoned  and  sent  back  to 
the  United  States. 


r 

r 


3; 


CALEDONIA  SPRINGS. 


247 


lence,  or  by  way  of  Grand  river,  on  the  Rideau  and  Ot- 
tawa canal  route.  The  f^prino^f?  ^vere  only  known  to  a  few 
huntorp  and  trappers  until  tlio  year  1835,  when  the  first 
attempt  was  made  to  clear  the  forest  in  which  they  were 
situated,  and  erect  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  vis- 
itants. By  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  William  Barker,  the 
proprietor,  a  hotel  is  now  erected  of  sufficient  extent  for 
the  comfortable  accommodation  of  parties  of  pleasure  as 
well  as  invalids. 

The  principal  Springs  are  the  White  Sulphur,  the 
Saline,  and  the  Gas  Spring.  The  waters  of  each  have 
undergone  a  chemical  analysis  by  Dr.  Chilton,  a  celebra- 
ted chemist  of  the  city  of  New- York ;  since  which  the 
celebrity  of  these  fountains  as  a  watering  place  is  rapidly 
extending.  Invalids  are  flocking  thither  from  all  parts  of 
the  Canadas,  from  Great  Britain  and  from  the  U.  States. 
The  waters  are  bottled*  and  forwarded  to  agents  for  sale 
in  Toronto,  Montreal,  Quebec,  New- York  and  elsewhere. 

The  White  Sulphur  Spring  possesses  *iualitics  very 
similar  to  the  White  Sulphur  Springs  of  Virginia.  The 
iodine  found  in  one  of  these  springs  promises  to  be  of 
great  benefit  in  all  diseases  where  that  powerful  remedial 
agent  is  efficacious.  These  waters  are  chiefly  beneficial, 
and  their   medical  effects  most  obviously  displayed,  in 

*  The  process  of  bottling 'these  waters  is  different  from 
that  observed  by  the  writer  at  other  places.  Ordinarily, 
the  bottles  arc  thrust  below  the  surface,  where  they  fill,  and 
are  drawn  out  and  corked  at  the  leisure  of  the  person  em- 
ployed in  the  business  ;  but  here  the  v/hole  process  is  per- 
formed underneath  the  surface,  and  in  a  manner  which 
preserves  the  gases  and  all  the  medicinal  virtues  of  the 
waters  unimpaired. 

w 


5    .IS 


Ill 


MQ 


BUFFALO  TO  MONTREAL. 


W: 


'  I 


m 


'W 


iil 


-cases  of  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  and  in  cutaneous  diseases; 
■but  the  traveller  is  shown  certificates*  of  extraordinary 
cures  performed  by  them  in  diseases  of  the  kidney  and 
liver,  in  jaundice,  dropsy,  &c.  It  is  proper  to  remark, 
however,  that  pulmonary  diseases  are  not  benefitted  by 
these  waters. 

FROM   BUFFALO  TO  MONTREAL, 

Via      Jie  Ontario^  on  the  A?nerican  side^  436  ?niU'S — 

Fare,  ^17,50. 

INTERMEDIATE  DISTANCES. 


Miles. 

Bi/  rail  road. 
From  Buffalo  to  Ni- 

atrara  Falls, ....  22 

Lewiston, 7     29 

Bt/  s^tcamhoat. 
Fort  Niagara,  ....     7     36 
Genesee  river,. ...  74  110 
Great  So^us  Bay,.  35  145 

Oswego, 28  173 

Sacket's  Harbor,..  40  213 
Cape  Vincent,. ...  20  233 

Morristowni, 50  282 

;  Ogdensburgli, ....   12  295 


Milefi. 
Cross  St.  Lawrence 

toPrescott,U.C.    1  29G 
Dickinson's  Land'g  38  334 
By  stage. 

Cornwall, 12  346 

By  steamboat. 

Cotean  du  Lac,. ..  41  387 

By  singe. 

Cascades, 16  403 

By  steamboat. 

Lachine, 24  427 

By  stage. 
Montreal, 9  436 


The  route  from  Buffalo  to  Oswego  has  already  been  de- 
scribed.    (Seep.  201  to  221.) 

*  Dr.  Robertson,  a  scientific  man  and  an  eminent  phy- 
sician of  Montreal,  whose  opinions  being  founded  upon 
experimental  knowledge  are  entitled  to  very  great  respect, 
has  given  his  most  unqualified  assent  to  the  efficacy  and 
beneficial  effects  of  these  waters  in  dyspepsia,  rheuma- 
tism,  chlorosis,  aflfections  of  the  liver,  the  urinary  organs, 
and  some  outaneous  diseases ;  as  well  as  their  renovating 
powers  in  invigorating  the  system  enfeebled  by  the  long 
protracted  and  injudicious  use  of  mercury. 


wil 


i 


PV 


is 


,,i 


6ACKET  S  IIARnOR— OGDENSOURGH. 


241 


diseases ; 
Lordinary 
ney  and 
remark, 
ifitted  by 


?nilf!S — 


Milefi. 
ce 

:.    1  29G 
g  38  334 

> 

*.  12  346 

oat. 

..  41  387 

16  403 

oat. 
.  24  427 

9  436 
y  been  de- 


ncnt  phy- 
dcd  upon 
t  respect, 
icacy  and 
rheuma- 
y  organs, 
novating 
the  long 


jacket's  Harbor,  40  miles  from  (Oswego.  This  was 
an  important  military  and  naval  station  during  tlic  last 
war.  The  Barracks  arc  situate  about  400  yards  north- 
easterly  of  the  village,  on  the  shore.  They  arc  a  solid 
range  of  stone  buildings,  and  add  much  to  the  appearance 
of  the  place.  Two  forts  erected  during  the  war  are  now 
in  ruins.  On  Navy  Point,  which  forms  the  harbor,  there 
is  a  large  ship  of  war  on  the  stocks ;  but  which,  probably, 
will  never  be  finished. 

Cape  Vincent,  20  miles.  Kingston,  in  Uppo-  Canada, 
is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  11  mdcs  du  ar  with 
Grand  Island  intervening. 

MoRRiSTowN,  50  miles.  The  river  here  is  ^\1  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  wide,  on  the  opposite  side  o*'  which  is  the 
village  of  Brock ville. 

Ogdensburgii,  which  terminates  the  passage  of  the 
steamboat,  is  12  miles  farther,  and  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Oswegatchie  river,  at  its  confluence  v.'ith  the 
St.  Lawrence.  This  is  a  tliriving  village,  containing 
about  300  houses,  and  a  population  of  about  3000  inhabi- 
tants. A  military  fortification,  consisting  of  two  stone 
buildings  and  a  number  of  wooden  barracks,  was  formerly 
erected  here  by  the  British  government,  but  was  ceded  to 
the  United  States  in  1796. 

Stages  leave  Ogdensburgii  daily  for  Plattsburgh ; 
whence  a  steamboat  can  be  taken  on  Lake  Champlain  for 
S5t.  John's  or  Whitehall. 

Boats  also  leave  Ogdensburgh  frequently  and  descend 
the  river  as  far  as  lia  Chine,  9  miles  above  Montreal,  in  3 
days.    They  are  usually  furnished  with  every  necessary 


i>i 


['•Ml] 


ij 


230 


RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


implement  for  their  jrood  management,  and  with  skilful 
pilots.  The  latter  are  more  particularly  requisite,  as  the 
current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  generally  very  rapid,  and 
obstructed  by  numerous  shoals  and  islands,  which,  by  r.n 
inexperienced  navigator,  could  not  without  difficulty  be 
avoided.  The  principal  rapids  are  three  in  number — the 
Longue  Sault,  the  Rapids  of  the  Cedars*  and  the  Cas- 
cades of  St.  Louis.  The  first  of  these  arc  9  miles  in  length, 
and  are  usually  passed  in  20  minutes,  which  is  at  the  rate 
of  27  miles  an  hour.  The  Rapids  of  the  Cedars  terminate 
about  3  miles  from  the  Cascades,  which,  after  a  broken 
course  of  about  2  miles,  pour  their  foaming  waters  into 
Lake  St.  Louis.  Lake  St.  Francis,  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
is  25  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth  15.  The  bor- 
ders  of  the  lake  are  so  low  that  they  can  scarcely  be  dis- 
tinguished in  passing  along  its  centre.  At  the  northern 
extremity  of  Lake  St.  Francis  is  situated  the  Indian  vil- 
lage of  St.  Regis,  through  which  passes  the  boundary  line 
between  the  Canadas  and  the  United  States- 

The  usual  route,  however,  is  to  cross  the  river  at  Og- 
densburgh  to  Prescott ;  whence  the  excursion  to  Montreal 
is  by  steamboat  and  stage  alternately,  as  noticed  in  the 
table  of  distances  at  p.  248. 


*  It  was  at  this  place  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of 
300  men,  coming  to  attack  Canada,  were  lost.  The 
French  at  Montreal  received  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town.  Tht; 
pilot  who  conducted  the  first  batteaux  committed  an  er- 
ror  by  running  into  the  wrong  channel,  and  the  other  bat- 
teau  following  close,  all  were  involved  in  the  same  de- 
struction. 


i'  i 


MONTREAL. 


251 


h  skilful 
3,  as  the 
tpid,  and 
,ii,  by  J\n 
iculty  be 
ibcr — the 
the  Cas- 
n  length, 
t  the  rate 
Lerminatc 
a  broken 
aters  into 
ia\sTreiicc, 
The  bor- 
jly  be  dia- 

northern 
ndian  vil- 

dary  line 

rer  at  Og- 
Montrcal 
;ed  in  the 


[rigade  of 
1st.  The 
Ice  of  the 
m.  Th« 
3d  an  er- 
Ither  bat- 
kame  de- 


Lachink,  9  miles  from  Montreal,  is  conncctod  with  tlie 
city  by  means  of  a  canal.  Tlie  staj^e  route  ailords  a  fins 
view  of  the  rapids  between  the  two  places,  Nuns  and  He- 
ron Islandij,  and  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga. 

MOXTREAL 

Is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  the  length  of  which  is  30  miles,  its  mean  breadtii  7, 
and  its  circumference  about  70.  The  city  extends  along 
the  St.  Lawrence,  about  2  miles  in  lengtli  and  about  half 
a  mile  in  width.  The  buildings  arc  mostly  constructed  of 
stone,  and  arranged  on  regularly  disposed  but  narrow 
streets.  A  stone  wall  formerly  encircled  the  city,  which, 
by  the  sanction  of  the  government,  was  some  years  ago 
totally  demolished.  Montreal  is  divided  into  the  upper 
and  lower  towns.  The  latter  of  these  contains  the  Hotel 
Dieu,  founded  in  1644,  and  under  a  superior  and  thirty 
nuns,  whose  occupation  is  to  administer  relief  1 3  the  sick, 
who  arc  received  into  that  hospital.  The  French  gov- 
ernment formerly  contributed  to  the  support  of  this  insti- 
tution ;  but  since  the  revolution,  which  occasioned  the 
loss  of  its  principal  funds,  then  vested  in  Paris,  its  re- 
sources have  been  confined  to  the  avails  of  some  property 
in  land.  The  upper  town  contains  the  Cathedral,  the 
English  Church,  the  Seminary,  the  Convent  of  Recollets, 
and  that  of  the  Sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  The  general 
hospital,  or  Convent  of  Gray  Sisters,  is  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  little  distance  from  the 
town,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  small  rivulet.  This 
institution  was  estabhshed  in  1753,  and  is  under  the  man- 
agement of  a  superior  and  19  nuns. 

w2 


mm 


i 


ni! 


If 


252 


MONTREAL. 


Some  of  the  public  buildinjjrs  arc  beautiful.  '  Among 
thcso,  the  new  Cathnlir  Church,  in  jjrrandour,  capacious- 
ness,  Btylo  and  decoration,  is  probably  not  exceeded  by 
any  edifice  in  America.  It  Ih  255  feet  lonjr  and  34  feet 
wide,  and  is  sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  10,000  persons. 

Nelson's  Monumenf,  near  the  Market  place,  va  an  object 
alHo  meriting  r.n  accurate  survey. 

The  Masfiiun,  belonging  to  the  Sorirty  of  Natural  Ilis- 
tory,  contains  a  numerous  assemblage  of  indigenous  and 
exotic  specimens,  an  examinati(m  of  which  will  prove 
liighly  interesting  to  visitors  of  taste  and  science. 

A  visit  to  the  Nunneries  can  generally  be  ertected  with- 
out difficulty  ;  though  a  trilhug  purchase  of  some  of  the 
manufactures  of  the  nuns  is  generally  expected. 

The  College  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  3  stories  high,  and 
has  a  spacious  yard  on  the  south,  adjoining  to  wliich  is 
a  beautiful  garden.  Connected  with  the  college  there  is 
also  a  preparatory  scho(»l,  under  excellent  regulations. 

The  Parade  is  a  beautiful  public  ground,  on  which  the 
troops  are  usually  drilled. 

The  prevailing  religion  here,  as  well  as  at  Quebec,  is 
the  Roman  Catholic.  The  clergy  derive  a  revenue  from 
grants  of  land  made  to  them  under  the  ancient  regime, 
and  from  contributions  ordained  bv  the  church.  Besides 
these,  a  jmncipal  source  of  revenue  is  from  the  fines  for 
alienation,  which  amount  to  about  8  per  cent.,  paid  by 
the  purchaser  of  real  estate,  every  time  the  same  is  sold, 
and  wliich  extends  to  sales  of  all  real  estates  in  the  seign- 
ory  or  island  of  Montreal. 

The  city,  including  its  suburbs,  contains  rising  of  40,000 
mhabitants. 


jri 


MONTRFAI,  TO  (iUKHKC. 


253 


'J'lio  Mountain  of  Montreal,  from  which  tlic  city  takes 
its  name,  rises  about  2  1-2  miles  dintant.  It  is  elevated 
700  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  and  extends  from 
north  to  south  2  miles.  'I'liis  spot  has  already  been  se- 
lected for  the  residence  of  s(ime  private  jrcntlemen,  whose 
elejrant  white  mansions  appear  beautiful  in  C(mtrast 
with  the  surroundinor  foliatre.  The  island  of  St.  Helena, 
immediately  oj)posite  tiie  city,  is  a  delijrhtful  little  spot, 
whence  is  had  a  fine  view  of  Montreal,  with  its  lofty 
mountain  in  the  back  (Tound,  Ihe  settlement  of  lionjrucil, 
St.  Tiambert  and  lia  Trairie  de  la  Madelaine,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  and  the  waters  of  the  St.  liavvrencc  dash- 
'm<r  over  the  rocks  of  Lachine,  and  sweeping  their  course 
around  a  variety  of  islands. 

The  principal  j)ublic  houses  in  the  city  are,  Masonic 
Hall,  in  thu  nortli  part ;  Coodenough's,  St.  Paul  street ; 
and  jMansion  House,  do. 

FROM    MONTREAL    TO    (iUEBKC — 180  milcs. 

The  following  arc  the  intermediate  distances  : 


Miles. 

Varennes, Jo 

L'Assum])tion, G  21 

Herthicr, 24  45 

Rivere  du  Loup,.. ..  24  09 
Porte  St.  Francis,..   15  84 


Mileff. 

Three  Rivers, 6     90 

St.  Anne, 30  120 

Porte  Neuf, 25  145 

Cape  Sante, 5  1 50 

Quebec, 30  180 


The  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  is  navi- 
gated V  a  number  of  excellent  steamboats,  and  the  pas- 
sage between  the  two  cities  is  delightful.  A  large  major- 
ity of  the  inhabitants  of  Lower  Canada  are  crowded  to 
gether  near  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  few  in- 
terruptions of  forest  land  intervene  in  the  whole  dv  '  ancc 


>      i 


■    '  \i   '■^.  !■« 


I 


lllll 


254 


VARENNES. 


hi 

Mil 


iX: 


1*1. 


1  .,r 


If 


''I 


between  the  two  principal  cities.  The  dw^elHnjrs  and 
cultivated  grounds  are  bo  frequent  and  continuous  that 
•each  side  of  the  river,  in  fact,  becomes  almost  an  un- 
broken street,  with  groups  of  houses  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  several  churches,  which  arc  erected  generally  in  sight 
of  the  passing  steamboat,  except  on  Lake  St.  Peter.  The 
churches  are  from  six  to  nine  mUcs  distant  from  each 
other,  and  upwards  of  twenty  in  number,  forming,  many 
of  them,  prominent  objects  to  give  embellishment  and 
charm  to  the  novel  and  otherwise  very  attractive  scenery. 
All  travellers  sleep  one  night  at  least  on  board  the  steam- 
boat while  journeying  between  the  two  cities  ;  and  it  i.- 
recommended  that  they  should  arrange  the  hour  of  de- 
parture  from  Quebec,  (which  is  always  at  low  water,)  so 
thai  they  may  view  by  day  light  that  part  of  the  river 
whiuh  had  been  before  passed  in  tlie  night.  A  journey  to 
Quebec  and  back  again,  which  a  few  years  since  was  the 
labor  of  some  weeks,  may  now  be  accomplished,  by  means 
of  steamboats,  in  less  than  three  days.  The  distance  be- 
tween the  two  cities  is  180  miles — fare  $4.. 

From  Montreal,  the  boat  first  passes  near  tlic  Fort  on 
St.  Helen's  Island,  and  soon  enters  the  rapids  of  St.  Mary ; 
in  returning  up  which,  steamboats  are  often  drawn 
by  cattle.  Proceeding  down  the,  river,  the  villages  of 
Longueil,  Longue  Pointe,  and  Verchercs,  are  successively 
passed  before  reaching 

Varennes,  on  the  south  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  1 5  miles 
from  the  city,  which  has  become  a  place  of  very  consid- 
crable  resort,  in  consequence  of  the  mineral  springs  in  its 
vicinity.  From  the  Varennes  Springs  Hotel,  located  in 
the  village,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  views  in  North 


r-     r§ 


WILLIAM    HENRY. 


255 


v'ellm|Ts  and 
itiniious  that 
nost  an  un- 
c  vicinity  of 
srally  in  sight 
Peter.    The 
,nt  from  each 
rming,  many 
lishment  and 
ctivc  scenery. 
,rd  the  steam- 
ties  ;  and  it  i.; 
e  hour  of  de- 
ow  water,)  so 
;  of  the  river 
A  journey  to 
since  was  the 
icd,  by  means 
e  distance  he- 
ir the  Fort  on 
of  St.  Mary ; 
often   drawn 
10  villages  of 
successively 

cnco,  15  miles 

very  consid- 

springs  in  its 

el,  located  in 

Hews  in  North 


America,  commanding  in  front  the  mountainous  land  on 
the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence ;  to  the  west,  the 
city  and  inland  of  Montreal,  the  island  and  fortification  of 
St.  Helen's,  and  the  winding  course  of  the  river  ;  and  on 
the  east  a  most  picturesque  group  of  islands,  with  their 
Taried  channels  ;  while  the  rear  presents  the  most  fertile 
and  highly  cultivated  district  in  Lower  Canada,  with  the 
magnificent  mountains  of  Chambly  and  Beloil  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  Hotel,  as  a  building,  is  capacious  and  fur- 
nished in  a  style  of  superior  neatness  and  elegance. 

The  Springs  are  one  mile  from  the  village,  and  arc  ap- 
proached by  a  road  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
forming  a  delightful  promenade,  where  an  extensive  and 
commodious  bath  house  has  been  erected.  By  an  analy- 
sis of  the  waters,  they  prove  to  be  possessed  of  valuable 
medicinal  qualities,  and  arc  free  from  substances  which 
can  be  deemed  deleterious.  Varennes  and  its  vicinity, 
therefore,  present  to  those  travelling  in  pursuit  of  health 
and  pleasure,  many  attractions. 

Leaving  Varennes,  the  boat  passes  the  villages  of  Point 
aux  Trembles,  Contrecoeur,  Repentigny,  St.  Sulpice,  La 
Morage,  Berthier  and  Machiche,  before  reaching  the 
town  of 

William  Henry,  which  is  40  miles  from  Montreal.  It 
stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  11)65,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  Sorel,  at  its  confluence  with  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  present  town  was  commenced  in  1785. 
It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  leaving  a  space  in  the  centre  about  500 
feet  square.  The  number  of  dwellings  docs  not  exceed 
200,  and  its  population  2000.    Near  the  town  is  a  scat 


m 


lr;jj;: 


I  SI 

w 


I  :k 


'■'it; 


^56 


LAKE  ST.  PETER — THREE  RIVERS. 


which  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Governor  Gene- 
ral of  Canada,  during  the  summer  months.  Opposite  the 
town,  the  river  Sorcl  is  250  yards  broad,  and  is  navigable 
for  vessels  of  150  tons,  for  tv/elve  or  fourteen  miles.  On 
the  river,  which  unites  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  are  two  considerable  forts,  the 
one  at  St.  Johns  and  the  other  at  Chambly.  Sorel  was 
occupied  in  May,  1776,  by  a  party  of  the  American  army, 
under  General  Thomas,  on  their  retreat  from  Quebec. 

Lake  St.  Peter,  some  miles  below  the  town  of  Sorel, 
is  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence  to  15 
or  20  miles  in  width,  and  is  21  in  length.  The  waters  of 
the  lake  have  but  little  current,  and  are  from  8  to  11  feet 
deep.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  a  variety  of  small 
islands  are  interposed,  which  are  the  only  ones  that  oc- 
cur in  the  St.  Lawrence  tiJl  you  reach  the  island  of  Or- 
leans, a  distance  of  117  miles.  On  the  north  side  of  this 
lake  is  the  town  of 

Three  Rivers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice,  which 
is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three  branches.  This 
town  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Colonial  Government, 
and  is  now  considered  the  third  in  importance  in  the 
Province.  It  contains  about  400  houses,  including  a  Ro- 
man Catholic  and  an  Episcopal  church,  and  a  Convent 
of  Ursulines — also  the  barracks  formerly  occupied  by  the 
governor,  during  the  French  regime.  The  number  of  in- 
habitants is  estimated  at  3000.  Some  miles  up  the  St. 
Maurice  are  the  celebrated  falls  of  Shawinnegame,  a 
beautiful  cataract  of  about  100  feet  descent. 


.4  j« 


RICHELIEU  RAPIDS. 


257 


Seven  miles  below  Three  Rivers,  the  Richelieu  rapids 
commence.  The  river  is  compressed  within  less  than 
half  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  water  moves  with  great  ve- 
locity for  three  or  four  miles  ;  but  beinjr  deep  and  the  cur- 
rent unbroken,  except  at  the  shores,  the  descent  is  made 
by  steamboats  without  dano^er,  except  in  the  night,  whea 
a  descent  is  never  attempted. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  occasionally  reliev- 
ed by  the  prospect  of  the  distant  mountains,  the  highest 
of  which  does  not  exceed  1000  feet,  but  rising  in  the  back, 
ground  of  the  cultivated  vales  along  the  borders  of  the 
river,  give  an  additional  degree  of  beauty  and  novelty  to 
many  of  its  landscapes.  The  alternate  variety  of  the 
waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  now  reposing  in  stillness  on 
the  bosom  of  an  expanded  lake,  and  now  riishing  witli  the 
rapidity  of  a  cataract,  added  to  the  pleasing  effect  of  the 
landscape  scenery,  afford  an  agreeable  repast  to  the  tour- 
ist, until  he  reaches  the  classic  scenes  of  Quebec.  Soon 
after  leaving  Cape  Rouge,  and  the  httle  village  of  St» 
Nicholas,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  the  tow- 
ers and  citadel  of  this  famous  city  open  to  view,  situated 
on  a  rock  of  345  feet  in  height,  called  Cape  Diamond, 
from  tlie  gem-likc  quality  of  the  chrystals  which  are  found 
intermingled  with  the  granite  beneath  its  surface.  In  ap- 
preaching  the  cil",  you  pass  Sillery  River  and  Cove,  and 
Wolfe's  Cove,  wiiere  he  landed  his  army  to  gain  the 
heights  of  Abraham,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from 
Quebec.  Point  Levi  appears  on  tlie  right,  a  rocky  preci- 
pice, covered  with  white  dwellings,  and  commanding  the 
citadel  of  Quebec  from  the  opposite  shore. 


'I 

k 
.11 


'% 


'•  m 


m 


r 


f" 


:» 


'    .J:      t 


258 


QUEBEC. 


4 


m 


m 


'I  III 


■^h 


IWi 


QUEBEC* 

Is  situated  upon  a  high  peninsular  point  ot  land,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles, 
the  junction  of  which  forms  a  capacious  and  btautiful  bay 
and  harbor. 

From  the  New  Exchanixe  at  the  extremity  of  Ihe  point 
on  the  northeast,  the  limi^^  of  the  city  jurisdiction  ex- 
tend  in  a  direct  line  about  northwest  to  a  bend  in  the 
St.  Charles  river,  near  the  General  Hospital.  On  the  St. 
Lawrence  river  the  southwest  point  of  the  Banlieu  is 
about  eqr  -distant  from  the  Exchange,  the  whole  plat  ap- 
proxima'  ing  to  a  triangle,  the  longest  side  of  which  passes 
a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the  Martollo  Towers, 
measuring  onr?  mile  and  five  furlongs  or  2S60  yards  from 
the  St.  Charles  to  the  St-  Lawrence. 

A  straight  line  drawn  from  one  river  to  the  other,  at 
the  Barrier  on  the  south  and  west,  is  rather  more  than  a 
aile  in  length,  and  the  whole  wall  is  tw<)  miles  and  three 
quarters  in  circuit ;  but  including  the  Citadel,  the  Esplan- 
ade, the  different  larac  gardens,  and  other  vacant  spaces, 
a  considerable  pri;pjrti'  i  of  the  interior  area  wltiiin  the 
fortification  remauxs  unoccupied  for  buildings. 

The  city  and  environs  are  thus  subdivided  :  That  part 
which  is  within  the  walls  is  called  the  Upper  Town,  and 
can  be  approached  solely  by  five  gates.  On  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Cape  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  is  only 
one  avenue  to  enter  it,  b}^^  a  circuitous  steen  hill,  through 


*  For  a  description  of  this  place,  the  writer  is  princi- 
pally indebted  to  the  "  Picture  of  Quebec,"  pubhshed  in 
that  city. 


UUEBEC. 


259 


land,  at  the 
St.  Charles, 
beautiful  hay 

y  of  1  Vie  point 
risdiction  ex- 
bcnd  in  the 
.  On  the  St. 
he  Banlieu  is 
^vhole  plat  ap- 
■  which  passes 
tcilo  Towers, 
60  yards  from 

the  other,  at 
r  more  than  a 
liles  and  three 

1,  the  Esplan. 

acant  spaces, 
lea  wltiiin  the 

fS. 

•d  :  That  part 
\,>r  Town,  and 
u  the  eastern 
I,  there  is  only 
hill,  through 

liter  is  princi- 
1'  published  in 


Prescott  Gate,  wiiicli  is  the  chief  thorounrhfare  for  ail  tlie 
commercial  business  of  the  port,  cspt  cially  durinjr  the 
navigable  season  ;  and  then  Mountain  street,  as  this  route 
is  named,  presents  the  appearance  of  a  crowded  and  ac- 
tive population.     On  the  north  of  the  city,  and  where  the 
promontory  has  considerably  declined  in  height,  there  arc 
two  entrances — Hope  Gate,  not  far  from  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  rampart,  and  Palace  Gate  adjoining  the 
Armory  and  the  Artillery  Barracks.     These  gates  are  on 
that  side  of  the  city  which  is  washed  by  the  St.  Charles. 
From  the  land  there  arc  two  avenues  to  the  interior  of  the 
fortifications  :  that  to  the  east  is  known  as  the  St.  Louis 
Gate,  which  conducts  by  a  beautiful  road  to  the  Plains  of 
Abraham  ;  the  other  is  at  the  end  of  St.  John  street,  and 
thence  denominated  St.  John's  Gate.     This  is  the  route 
through  which  the  chief  part  of  the  country  trade  passes. 
The  lonsr  street  from  the  termination  of  the  Banlieu  on 
the  south-west,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  skirting  the  Cape 
round  to  the  Wood  Yard  belonging  to  the  government, 
including  Mountain  street  to  the  Prescott  Gate,  and  all 
the  other  shorter  streets  below  the  hill  and  the  river,  are 
generally  denominated   the  Lower  To>vn.     The  jjortion 
between  the  road  outside  of  the  Gate  of  St.  Louis  and 
that  of  St.  John  street,  to  the  line  of  the  Banli'    ,  is  call- 
ed the   suburbs  of  St.    Louis.     From   St.   John   street 
northerly  to  the  Cote  St.  Genevieve,  and  returning  to  the 
end  of  the  Banlieu,  all  the  buildings  arc  included  in  the 
St.  John  suburbs  ;  and  the  large  district  extending  from 
tlie  Wood  Yard   along  by  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  wes- 
tern extremity  of  the  Banlieu,  and  bounded  on  the  north- 


I 


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260 


QUEBEC. 


1  I 


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West  by  the  St.  Charles  river,  bears  the  appellation  of  tiiC 
suburbs  of  St.  Roch. 

As  travellers  are  fronerally  restricted  to  time,  they  have 
often  failed  to  gratify  their  curiosity  for  want  of  a  direc- 
lory  or  guide,  by  which  they  might  with  the  greatest  fa- 
cility view  the  most  important  objects,  and  also  from  not 
having  previous=ly  obtained  a  letter  of  introduction  to  some 
respcctablo  citizen  who  would  accompany  them  in  their 
explorations.  To  remove  these  obstacles,  the  following 
methodical  plan  of  an  excursion  through  the  city  and  the 
accompanying  descriptions  are  given.  They  will  be 
found  to  be  accurate,  and  will  save  the  tourist  from  in- 
numerable perplexities,  to  which  he  would  otherwise  be 
subject. 

Taking  the  Upper  Town  Market-House  as  the  place 
of  de})arture,  the  observer  has  on  the  west  the  ancient 
Monastery  of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  as  the  Barracks  for 
the  troops  of  the  gar.lson.  It  is  a  ca])acious  quadrangular 
edifice  of  75  yards  by  67,  encircled  by  a  wall  which 
measures  on  the  north  the  whole  length  of  Fabrique 
street,  and  more  than  200  yards  on  Anne  street.  The 
aioa  enclosed,  and  which  now  is  appropriated  for  the 
parades  and  exercise  of  the  troops,  was  formerly  an  ele- 
gant garden.  Fronting  on  the  cast  side  of  Market-Place 
is  the  principal 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  which  is  open  nearly  the 
w}:ole  hours  of  day-light.  It  is  a  massive  unornamented 
and  spacious  stone  building.  From  the  vestibule,  the 
body  of  the  interior  is  subdivided  into  equal  proportions. 
At  the  termination  of  the  nave  is  the  grand  altar  in  the 
pilddlo  of  the  ellipse  conbtituting  tho  eanctumj  the  walls 


"^^■ 


QUEDEC. 


2G1 


lation  of  the 

c,  they  have 
it  of  a  dircc- 
j  orrcatest  fa- 
ilso  from  not 
ction  to  some 
Lhem  in  their 
the  following 
}  city  and  the 
rhey  will  be 
uiist  from  in- 
otherwise  be 

3  as  the  place 
it  the  ancient 
J  Barracks  for 
quadrangular 
wall  which 
of  Fabrique 
street.    The 
ated  for  the 
rmerly  an  ele- 
Markct-Place 

n  nearly  the 
iinornamented 
vestibule,  the 
il  proportions, 
altar  in  the 
,um,  tho  walls 


of  which  are  ornamented  with  representations  and  fig- 
ures, commingled  with  various  other  graphical  emblems. 
Among  the  pictures  arc  the  Conception — the  Apostle  Paul 
in  his  extatic  vision — the  Saviour  ministered  unto  by  an- 
gels— the  flight  of  Joseph  and  Mary — the  Redeemer  and 
the  cross — the  nativity  of  Christ — the  Saviour  under  the 
contumelious  outrages  of  the  soldiers — tlie  day  of  Pente- 
cost— and  the  Holy  Family.  During  the  siege  of  Que- 
bec, in  1759,  this  church  was  set  on  fire  by  shells  dis- 
charged from  a  battery  on  Point  Levi,  and  all  the  })aint. 
ings  and  ornaments  consumed  except  the  first  above 
mentioned,  which  was  afterwards  found  among  the  ruins. 
Tlie  avenue  north  of  the  church  conducts  the  tourist  to 

The  Seminary,  a  capacious  superstructure  of  stone,  in 
the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  It  is  encircled  by  a  large 
garden,  walled  in,  measuring  in  the  whole  about  seven 
acres.  Tliis  institution  was  established  in  16G3,  and  was 
originally  designed  for  the  education  of  ecclesiastics  ;  but 
this  exclusive  system  was  long  since  abandoned,  and  it  is 
now  open  for  the  reception  of  all  who  comply  with  its 
regulations.  Attached  to  the  Seminary  is  a  museum  of 
natural  curiosities  ;  and  on  the  left  of  the  grand  entrance 
from  Market-Place  is  the  vestibule  of  tlie  cliapel,  in  which 
are  a  great  variety  of  sacred  paintings.  From  this  tho 
tourist  ".an  proceed  to  the  church  ;  and  thence  to  the 

Place  d^Armes,  where,  on  the  east  of  the  Pentagon, 
stood  the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  the  former  residence  of 
the  Governor,  and  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  tho 
winter  of  1834.    On  the  south  side,  and  nearly  adjoin- 
ing, is  ihe 


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262 


QUEBEC. 


Court  Hou8e^  a  plain  neat  building  of  stone,  about  140 
feet  long,  and  as  many  broad.  It  stands  where  once 
stood  a  church  belonging  to  the  order  of  the  Recollets, 
which  was  burnt  in  1790. 

On  the  corner  of  Fort  street,  south  of  the  site  of  the 
Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  is  a  largo  building  used  for  public 
offices,  the  front  room  of  which  on  the  first  story,  con- 
tains the  Museum  of  the  "  Society  for  promoting  Liter, 
aturc,  Science,  Arts  and  Historical  Research  in  Upper 
Canada."  A  visit  to  it  will  prove  extremely  interesting. 
Crossing  the  Place  d'Armcs  to  i)es  Carrieres  street,  the 
visitor  will  next  inspect  the 

Monument^  erected  in  memory  of  Wolf  and  Montcalm. 
This  consists  of  a  base  and  a  pillar,  surmounted  by  a  vig- 
nette of  graphic  delineation.  The  base  is  about  5  by  6 
feet,  and  tfin  whole  height  of  the  monument  is  65  feet. 
It  contains  two  Latin  inscriptions,  ixftcr  viewing  from 
the  promenade  at  the  exterior  of  the  Governor's  quarters 
the  beauteous  landscape  diverging  to  the  northeast,  the 
visitor  will  return  to  St.  Lewis  street,  where,  after  pass, 
ing  the  office  of  the  Commissariat,  he  will  turn  by  Parloir 
street,  to  the 

Ursuline  Nunnery  and  ChurcJi*  This  nunnery  and  the 
land  adjoining  it  occupy  a  space  of  about  7  acres,  which 
is  surrounded  by  a  high  barrier  of  stone.  This  institution 
was  founded  ir»  1  fi.^9,  and  the  edifice,  which  is  of  stone, 
is  2  stories  high,  114  feet  long,  and  about  40  broad.  At 
the  cast  projection.is  the  chapel,  about  100  feet  long  and 
50  in  breadth,  the  interior  of  which  is  highly  decorated. 
The  convent  is  neat  and  includes  a  superior,  42  assistants 
and  7  novices,  the  chief  employment  of  whom  is  the  tni. 


-1 1  ■ 


^wjyjl  I. 


QUEBEC. 


2G3 


ne,  about,  140 
I  where  once 
the  Re  collets, 

he  site  of  the 
3ed  for  piibhc 
rst  story,  con- 
miotinjr  Liter- 
arch  in  Upper 
sly  interesting. 
ires  street,  the 

md  Montcalm, 
anted  by  a  vig- 
is  about  5  by  6 
lent  is  65  feet, 
viewing  from 
rnor's  quarters 
northeast,  the 
re,  after  pass- 
turn  by  Parloir 

lunnery  and  the 
7  acres,  which 
his  institution 
h  is  of  stone, 
40  broad.  At 
feet  long  and 
ily  decorated. 
•,  42  assistants 
iiom  is  the  till- 


I 


tion  of  a  large  number  of  girls  in  common  knowledge  and 
other  qualifications.  They  are  more  rigid  and  retired 
tlian  the  inmates  of  any  other  conventual  institution  in 
Canada.  Persons  of  distinction  only  are  permitted  to  ex- 
amine  the  domestic  departn  mts ;  hut  the  Chaplain, 
whose  apartments  are  on  the  right  of  the  entrance,  per- 
mits  strangers  to  examine  the  ciiurch  on  application  to 
him.  Among  the  paintings  tiiere  exhibited,  arc  the  por- 
traits of  some  of  the  Popes — the  Birlh  of  Immanucl — the 
Saviour  exhibiting  his  heart  to  tlie  Religieuses — the  Sa- 
viour taken  down  from  the  cross — a  eargo  of  Christians 
captured  by  the  Algerines — Louis  XHl.  of  France — and 
several  devices  taken  from  the  scriptures.  The  altars  aro 
highly  ornamented  and  imposing. 

Leaving  the  nunnery,  the  visitor  will  next  proceed  by 
Anne  street,  with  the  south  wing  of  the  barracks  on  his 
right,  to  the  Presbyterian  church.  Passing  its  front  he 
will  leave  the  jad  on  the  right,  where  lie  pursues  his 
course  to  the 

Esplanade.  If  he  has  no  citizen  as  a  companion,  and 
no  other  mode  of  visiting  the  fortification,  he  should  turn 
up  St.  Ursule  to  St.  Louis  street,  and  at  the  military  of- 
fices request  from  the  adjutant  general  a  card  of  admis- 
sion to  walk  round  the  interior  of  the 

Citadel,  This  stupendous  fortress  circumscribes  the 
whole  area  on  the  highest  part  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  not 
only  accommodates  the  garrison  as  a  residence,  parade, 
&c.  but  also  includes  all  tho  njaterials  of  war.  It  j)cr- 
fpctly  commands  tho  city  and  river  »St. Lawrence  '.and  is 
one  of  tho  best  spcchncns  of  military  architecture  oa  the 
American  continent. 

>:2 


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264 


aVEDEC. 


IIavin;T  entered  the  grand  western  pfatc,  where  the  vis- 
itor leaves  his  ticket  with  a  soldier  on  guard,  and  examin- 
ed  the  edifice,  lie  will  first  proceed  round  the  course  of 
the  citadel  to  tlic  fiajr  stall*  and  telenrraph  ;  thence  south, 
erly  h}'  thi;  parajiet  bordering  on  the  river  to  the  machinery 
at  the  head  of  the  rail-^vay,  or  inclined  plane,  which  is  500 
feet  long,  extending  from  the  wharf  to  the  cape,  where  its 
perpendicular  elevation  is  315  feet  above  the  stream. 
This  rail-way  is  used  by  the  government  alone,  to  convey 
stones  and  other  articles  of  great  weight  and  bulk,  for  the 
erection  of  the  fortress. 

Having  surveyed  from  the  highest  point  the  majestic 
scene  in  every  diversified  aspect  of  hill  and  dale,  laud  anJ 
water,  the  visitor  will  follow  the  course  of  the  wall  on  his 
left  hand,  until  he  returns  to  the  same  gate,  and  pursue  his 
walk  by  it,  over  St.  Louis  gate  along  the  Esplanade,  until 
hr  arrives  opjjosite  the  church  of  the  Congreganistes,  im- 
mediately  below  whieli  is  the  national  school  house. 

Proceeding  along  St.  .Tohn  street,  he  will  turn  north  of 
St.  Stanislaus  street,  on  the  east  side  of  which  stands 
Trinity  chapel,  whence  crossing  Carleton  street,  ho  ar. 
rives  attht  artillery  barracks  and  the  armory — the  latter 
of  which  may  bo  inspected,  if  a  resident  of  the  city  be  in 
company. 

Opposite  the  armory  is  the  anatomical  room  of  the  med. 
leal  society.  Thenco  walking  up  Palace  street,  on  thu 
right  hand  is  St.  Helen  street,  where  is  Mr.  Chasseur's 
natural  museum.  Returning  into  Palace  street,  tlic  vis- 
itor crosses  obliquely  above  to  Collins'  Lauc,  in  which 
stands  on  the  left,  the 


*    .• 


^  ♦.- 


n 


dicrc  the  vis- 
,  and  cxamin- 
:h(*  course  of 
thence  south- 
he  machinery 
;,  whicli  is  500 
ape,  where  its 
3  the  stream, 
me,  to  convey 
(1  bulk,  for  the 

t  the  majestic 
dale,  laud  and 
the  wall  on  his 
and  pursue  his 
splanadc,  until 
reganistes,  im- 
ol  house. 
|l  turn  north  of 
which  stands 
street,  ho  ar. 
iry — the  latter 
the  city  be  in 

im  of  the  med- 
jstreet,  on  the 
[r.  Chasscur^s 
^treet,  the  vis- 
me,  ill  which 


»    ». 


Qirr.nKC. 


205 


Chapp.l  of  the  Hotel  Die  it.  These  premises  include  a 
larije  proportion  of  tlio  northern  part  of  tlie  interior  of  thc'^ 
city — commcncint(  from  tlic  j^ate  of  the  burial  ground  on 
Couillard  street  and  extending  to  Palace  street,  witli  a 
wall  on  the  north  i)arallt'l  to  tiie  fortifications  ;  the  whole 
space  occupying  about  12  acres.  The  institution  was 
commenced  in  1G37,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Duchess 
of  Aiguillon,  and  was  consecrated  to  the  r^iception  and 
care  of  the  sick,  who  are  indigent  and  distressed.  It  is  a 
capacious  edifice,  tho  longest  portion  of  which  extends 
nearly  130  yards  by  17  in  dej)th,  and  3  stories  high.  On 
tlic  northwest  side  from  the  centre,  a  range  is  erected  2 
stories  high,  50  yards  in  length,  and  nearly  ar.  many  feet 
broad,  plain  and  unadorned.  This  wing  is  appropriated 
for  tho  patients  ;  the  up[)er  story  of  which  is  occu})ied  by 
f('males.  All  proper  attendance  both  from  the  nuns  and 
physicians,  is  gratuitously  administered. 

In  the  convent  the  sisterhood  reside,  wlio  now  include 
the  superieure,  33rcligeuscs  professes,  two  nf.vices  and  1 
postulante.  The  regularity,  neatness  and  purity  with 
wliieli  the  establishment  is  conducted,  and  the  solaco  of 
the  wretched  who  find  refajro  lu  this  iiospitabic  domain, 
are  highly  exemplary. 

The  church  of  tho  Hotel  Dicu  externally  is  perfectly 
plain,  and  the  interior  is  little  adorned,  'j'hc  paintings 
may  be  examined  upon  appUcatlon  to  the  chaplain. 

Having  completed  an  examination  of  tho  Hotel  Dleu, 
with  the  surrounding  garden,  tho  visitor  may  next  follow 
Couillard,  St.  Joachin  nnd  St.  George's  streets  to  the 
Grand  Battery  and  tho  ancient  palace  of  the  Catholic 
now  used  by  the  provincial  parliament ;  or  he  can 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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return  to  Palace  street,  and  continue  his  progress  to  the 
gate,  where,  by  passing  the  guard  house  and  pursuing  his 
walk  easterly,  he  may  accurately  understand  the  nature 
of  the  defence  which  the  city  can  make  against  external 
assault. 

The  first  house  at  which  he  arrives  is  distinguished  as 
the  former  residence  of  the  renowned  Montcalm.  There 
he  may  turn  to  the  right,  which  will  lead  him  to  Couillard 
street,  or  he  can  continue  his  walk  passing  Hope  Gate, 
until  ho  arrives  at  the  Look-out  from  the  northeast  plat- 
form of  the  battery. 

In  the  lower  town,  the  only  objects  which  merit  notice, 
besides  the  inclined  plane  or  rail- way  to  the  Citadel,  are 
the  Exchange  Reading  Room,  and  the  Quebec  Library, 
which  are  always  open  for  the  admission  of  strangers,  if 
regularly  introduced,  and  are  worthy  of  inspection. 

About  100  yards  from  the  lower  end  of  the  rail-way, 
General  Montgomery  and  hlj  aids  with  other  men  were 
killed  on  the  morning  of  December  31,  1775,  when  pro- 
cecding  to  the  assault  of  Quebec.  The  place  may  be 
easily  recognized,  notwithstanding  the  alterations  which 
have  occurred.  At  that  period  a  narrow  path  only  was 
made  between  the  foot  of  the  hill  and  the  river,  so  that 
vessels  were  fastened  to  the  rock  by  large  iron  bolts,  one 
of  which  still  remains  near  the  spot  where  the  American 
General  and  his  advanced  party  were  discomfited.  The 
wharves,  houses,  &c.  all  have  been  long  since  construct- 
ed. At  the  top  of  the  small  ascent  on  the  street  immedi- 
ately below,  the  small  battery  had  been  erected,  near  the 
plot  where  the  southerly  forge  is  now  stationed.  As 
Montgomery  led  on  the  attack,  the  British  retreated  be- 


^ 


■%^Tr 


QUEBEC. 


\\>. 


SA' 


267 


fore  him.  In  passiigr  round  Cape  Diamond,  the  ice  and 
projecting  rocks  rendered  it  necospary  for  the  Americans 
to  press  forward  in  a  narrow  file,  until  tiicy  arrived  at  the 
block  house  and  picket.  The  General  was  himself  in 
front,  and  assisted  with  his  own  hands  to  cut  down  and 
pull  up  the  picket.  The  roughness  of  the  way  had  so 
lengthened  his  line  of  march,  that  he  was  obliged  to  wait 
for  a  force  to  come  up  before  he  could  proceed.  Having 
re-assembled  about  200  men,  he  advanced  boldly  and  rap- 
idly  at  their  head  to  force  the  barrier.  One  or  two  of  the 
enemy  had  by  this  time  ventured  to  return  to  the  battery, 
and  seeing  a  match  standing  by  one  of  the  guns,  touched 
it  off,  when  the  American  force  was  within  40  paces  of  it. 
This  single  and  accidental  fire  struck  down  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery and  his  aids,  Captain  M'Pherson  and  Captain 
Cheesman. 

The  remains  of  Montgomery  were  interred  by  a  soldier 
of  the  name  of  Thompson  within  a  wall  that  surrounded 
a  powder  magazine  near  the  ramparts  bounding  on  St. 
Lewis'  gate  ;  and  in  1818  were  removed  to  New- York, 
where  they  were  deposited  beneath  a  monument  in  front 
of  St.  Paul's  church. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham  lie  south  and  west  of  Quebec. 
The  visitor,  on  leaving  St.  Louis  gate,  should  turn  up  the 
stairs  of  the  Glacis,  continue  his  course  under  the  citadel, 
and  pursue  a  path  to  the  right.  At  the  termination  of  the 
enclosure,  the  bank  is  ascended  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham, 
near  the  spot  where  Wolfe  died.  The  large  house  at  a 
distance  in  the  front  is  erected  on  the  site  of  a  French  re- 
doubt, which  defended  the  ascent  from  Wolfe's  cove,  and 
was  the  primary  object  of  assault  and  capture,  after  the 


i 
''I 

i 

m 


'1«r 


■m 


i 


268 


QUEBEC. 


1:^1 


top  of  the  hill  had  been  gained  by  the  British  troops.  The 
precipice  at  the  cove,  from  150  to  200  feet  in  height,  and 
full  of  projections  of  rocks  and  trees,  seemed  to  be  ren- 
dered  almost  impassable.  General  Wolfe,  however,  with 
unparalleled  fortitude,  led  the  way  in  the  night,  (Sept.  12, 
1759,)  through  a  narrow  path  winding  obliquely  up  the 
hill,  which,  with  the  assistance  of  boughs  and  stumps, 
enabled  him  and  his  troops  to  gain  the  summit.  Here, 
by  day-light  the  next  morning,  they  were  formed  in  line 
of  battle,  in  readiness  to  meet  the  enemy. 

General  Montcalm,  on  receiving  information  that  the 
British  had  possession  of  the  heights,  broke  up  his  camp 
at|  Beaufort,  crossed  the  St.  Charles  river,  and  at  about 
10  o'clock  in  the  morning  commenced  the  attack.  After 
a  desperate  struggle  of  about  two  hours,  in  which  both 
commanders  had  been  mortally  wounded,  the  French 
gave  way  and  left  the  field  in  possession  of  the  victors. 

Wolfe  fell  at  the  critical  moment  that  decided  the  vie- 
lory.  He  was  wounded  in  the  early  part  of  the  engage- 
ment  by  a  bullet  in  his  wrist — soon  after  by  a  ball  which 
passed  through  his  groin — and  it  was  not  until  a  third  had 
pierced  his  breast,  that  he  suffered  himself  to  be  carried 
from  the  field.  "  I  die  happy,"  was  his  exclamation, 
when  in  the  arms  of  death  he  heard  the  joyful  shouts 
of  victory. 

The  Martello  Towers,  consisting  of  four  circular  forts, 
are  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  about  half  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  exterior 
grand  wall  of  the  fortifications.  They  arc  numbered  from 
the  river  St.  Lawrence  to  the  General  Hospital,  and 
guard  the  approaches  to  the  city  on  the  south  and  west. 


They  ai 
almost  ( 
to  resist 

The  I 
northeas 
its  June 
over  a  p 
may  aim 
cataract 

Theei 
and  subli 
waters  oj 
ty  of  th 
through  1 
from  the 
weigJjt  of 
the  atter 
with  sent 
of  the  fal 
by  steep 
When  vie 
resplendei 
the  summ 
sion  of  th 
various  sn 
rocky  bed 
very  singi 

Remain 
during  th( 
A  battery 
precipice 


FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


269 


They  are  nearly  40  feet  In  height,  with  a  base  diameter 
almost  equal ;  and  the  exterior  wall  is  of  ample  strength 
to  resist  a  cannonade. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  arc  situated  about  8  miles 
northeast  of  Quebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  near 
its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence.  These  falls  pour 
over  a  perpendicular  precipice  240  feet  in  height,  and 
may  almost  compare  in  beauty  and  grandeur  with  the 
cataract  of  Niagara. 

The  effect  from  the  summit  of  the  cliff  is  awfully  grand 
and  sublime.  The  prodigious  depth  of  the  descent  of  the 
waters  of  this  surprising  fall ;  the  brightness  and  volubili- 
ty of  their  course;  the  swiftness  of  their  movement 
through  the  air ;  and  the  loud  and  hollow  noise  emitted 
from  the  basin,  swelling  with  incessant  agitation  from  the 
weiglit  of  the  dashing  waters,  forcibly  combine  to  attract 
the  attention,  and  to  impress  the  mind  of  the  spectator 
with  sentiments  of  grandeur  and  elevation.  Tlic  breadth 
of  the  fall  is  100  feet ;  and  the  basin,  which  is  bounded 
by  steep  cliffs,  forms  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 
When  viewed  from  the  beach,  the  cataract  is  seen,  with 
resplendent  beauty,  to  flow  down  the  gloomy  precipice, 
the  summit  of  which  is  crowded  with  woods.  The  diffu- 
sion of  the  stream,  to  the  breadth  of  ]  ,500  feet,  and  the 
various  small  cascades  produced  by  the  inequalities  of  its 
rocky  bed,  on  its  way  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  display  a 
very  singular  and  pleasing  combination. 

Remains  of  entrenchments  and  fortifications  erected 
during  the  French  war  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the  falls. 
A  battery  occupied  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  June,  1759,  on  the 
precipice  north-east  of  the  falls,  is  yet  visible.     The 


,P 


■K  m 


270 


PALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


I 


:!l!  I  I 


'll'f' 


.^ 


h^': 


French  occupied  the  o|)j)osite  bank ;  and  Wolfe  attempt- 
ed 'o  stonn  tlicir  works  by  fording  the  river  below  the 
falls  and  ascending  the  heights.  Without  forming  in  a 
regular  manner,  and  without  waiting  for  additional  rein- 
forcements which  were  on  their  wav  from  Point  Levi, 
Wolfe's  men  rashly  ascended  the  hill,  eager  for  the  onset, 
and  were  cut  down  by  the  French  artillery  and  musquet- 
ry,  and  obliged  to  retreat.  The  English  loss  was  about 
500 ;  while  that  of  the  French  was  trifling.  A  storm 
coming  on,  further  attempts  to  dislodge  the  French  were 
abandoned.  The  British  afterwards  ascended  the  river, 
and  the  action  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  which  has 
already  been  noticed,  took  place  in  the  month  of  Septem- 
ber following. 

There  are  three  points  which  afford  the  best  views  of 
the  Falls.  1.  From  the  upper  window  of  the  mill, 
whence  the  projecting  leap  is  safely  seen.  2.  Having 
crossed  the  bridge,  the  visitor  proceeds  along  the  brow  of 
the  hill  until  he  arrives  nearly  in  front  of  the  whole  cat- 
aract ;  from  this  summit,  the  view,  with  the  concomitant 
chrcumstances,  inspire  commingled  emotions  of  awe,  ter- 
ror and  astonishment.  From  the  same  spot  there  is  a 
lucid  and  beauteous  prospect  of  Quebec,  with  its  encir- 
cling scenery ;  and  with  an  ordinary  magnifying  glass, 
the  observer  can  discern  all  the  prominent  objects — the 
steeples,  towers,  fortifications,  principal  edifices,  the  ship- 
ping, the  course  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  until  it  is  lost 
among  the  hills — Point  Levi  and  its  vicinity — the  north 
side  of  the  island  of  Orleans — the  point  of  Angel  Garden 
— and  the  shores  of  the  river  as  far  as  Cape  Tourment. 
3.  Hence  the  visitor  descends  the  hill,  and  pursuing  its 


n. 


J^' 


LORETTK. 


^71 


course  to  the  right,  he  may  ordinarily  advance  to  the 
rock  which  interrupts  the  turbulence  of  the  stream  when 
discharged  into  the  chasm.  In  the  view  from  bi.jow,  the 
must  vivid  impressions  of  tliis  gorgeous  cascade  are  pro- 
dnccd ;  and  travellers  wlio  do  not  thus  survey  the  falls, 
can  form  only  a  faint  and  incorrect  idea  of  its  apparently 
changing  effect. 

At  a  considerable  distance  above  the  Falls,  the  chan- 
nel  of  the  river  is  contracted  between  high  vertical  rocks, 
and  the  water  rushes  with  proportionate  velocity.  In 
one  part,  at  about  half  a  mile  from  tlie  bridge,  cascades 
of  three  or  four  yards  in  de{)th  arc  adjacent  to  two  fine 
geological  curiosities,  familiarly  denominated  the  Natural 
Step.s^  which  appear  to  have  been  formed  by  the  attrition 
of  the  stream,  occasioned  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  and 
the  augmented  rapidity  of  the  flood.  Many  of  these 
steps  2.re  so  regular,  that  they  almost  develope  the  pro- 
cess of  human  art.  Tiie  perpendicular  attitude  of  the 
rocks  on  the  east  side — the  tree-crowned  summit—the 
uniformity  of  appearance,  resembling  an  ancient  ca,stle 
v\all  in  ruins — the  precipices  on  the  western  bank — and 
tiio  foaming  noisy  current,  pourtray  a  romantic  wildness, 
which  is  highly  attractive.  Observers  are  amply  remu- 
iterated  for  their  walk,  as  conjoined  with  this  interesting 
object,  they  witness  the  continuous  descent  and  the  ac- 
celerating force  and  celerity  with  which  the  river  is  pro- 
pelled to  the  point,  whence  it  is  precipitated  into  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

LoRETTE,  an  Indian  village,  about  8  miles  from  the 
city,  can  be  taken  in  the  route  to  or  from  the  falls  of 
Montmorenci.     It  is  built  upon  an  elevated  situation, 


^1 


i 


m 


;••'  .i5 


r.  I' 


I'll    'I  «! 


^ ' .  'It'  f  J 


i>72 


CHAUniERF   FALLS. 


VM 


whence  there  is  an  extensively  varied  and  agreeable  land- 
scape, in  many  points  similar  to  that  from  Cape  Diamond, 
but  also  including  some  intcrcstinjr  novelties  of  out  lino. 
It  exhibits  a  bold  and  brsautiful  view  of  Quebec  and  its 
suburbs,  and  in  its  extent  it  is  bounded  solely  by  the  dis. 
tant  southern  mountains.  The  Indian  inhabitants  of  the 
villa<:(c  retain  many  (  f  the  prominent  characteristics  of  the 
aborij^inal  roamers  of  the  forest,  combined  with  vicious 
habits  contracted  by  their  proximity  to  a  larjrc  sea-port, 
and  their  intercourse  with  its  migratory  population.  At 
this  village  is  a  very  charming  view  of  the  river  St. 
Charles,  tumbling  and  foaming  over  the  rocks  and  ledges 
to  a  great  depth.  The  rugged  and  perpendicularly  ele- 
vated woody  cliffs,  in  connection  with  the  impetuous  rush 
of  the  waters,  alihor  '  circumscribed  in  extent,  and 
therefore  affording  n  >aiidcd  prospect  in  immediate 
front,  yet,  as  seen  from  the  Saw-Mill,  and  from  the  bank 
and  the  bridge  at  the  head  of  the  dell,  in  its  different  po- 
sitions and  aspects,  constitute  an  object  which,  when 
contrasted  with  the  more  majestic  cataracts  of  Montmo- 
renci  and  the  Chaudiere,  or  recollected  in  combination 
with  them,  furnishes  in  memorial  an  addition  to  the  va- 
rieties which  those  stupendous  natural  curiosities  embody. 

The  Chaudiere  Falls  can  be  approached  by  land  or 
water.  The  former  is  generally  preferred,  the  distance 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  being  nine  miles  from 
Quebec.  Thence  visitors  can  cross  at  the  ferry  and  take 
an  indirect  path  to  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  or  diverge 
from  the  St.  Lawrence  some  distance  north  of  the  Chau- 
diere, and  arrive  within  a  short  walk  of  the  falls  on  tiic 
eastern  bank.     The  river  at  the  cascade  is  much  com- 


CllAUUIKRi:  FALLH. 


273 


prespcd,  being  only  about  400  foot  across  ;  and  tho  depth 
into  the  Pot,  as  it  is  usually  termed,  is  ahotit  13")  feet. 
Many  rocks  divide  ihe  stream,  precisely  at  the  tall,  into 
three  chief  currents,  of  which  the  westerly  is  tho  largfcst 
— these  partially  reunite  before  their  broken  and  agitated 
waves  arc  received  into  the  basin ;  whert;  each  dashing 
against  the  otiier  maintains  a  turbulent  whirlpool.     The 
form  of  the  rocks  forces  a  part  of  the  waters  into  an  ob- 
lique direction,  advancing  them  beyond  the  line  «;f  the 
precipice,  while  the  cavities  in  the   rocks  increase  the 
foaming  fury  of  the  revolving  waters  in  their  descent,  dis- 
playing globular  figures  of  brilliant  whiteness,  which  arc 
richly  contrasted  with  the  encircling,  dark  and  gloomy 
cliffs,  wliile  the  ascending  spray  developes  all  the  variety 
of  the  coloured  cloudy  arch,  and  enlivens  the  beauty  of 
the  landscape  :  the  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of 
the    overhanging    woods,    the    rapid   motion,    efi'ulgent 
brightness  and  the  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the  cataracts, 
all  combining  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects 
highly  attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor,  emerging 
from  the  wood,  is  instantaneously  surprised  by  the  de- 
lightful scene.     Below,  the  view  is  greatly  changed,  and 
the  falls  produce  an  additional  strong  and  vivid  impres- 
sion.    If  strangers  only  view  the  falls  from  one  side  of 
the  river,  the  prospect  from  the  eastern  shore  is  recom- 
mended as  preferable. 

The  Montmorenci  and  Chaudiere  Falls,  the  village  of 
Lorette  and  Lake  St.  Charles,  together  with  the  scenery 
of  Orleans,  a  beautiful  island  six  miles  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence, Beaufort  and  Point  Levi,  will  always  afford  inter- 
esting excursions  to  the  tourist  at  Quebec. 

4* 


Hi 


ii 


r 


m 


.f 


271 


ST.  LAWRENCE  UIVLIl. 


i:m 


fm 


u 


The  St.  liAvvRF.NCK  BKLOW  QuEBEc. — TliosG  who  havc 
not  seen  this  jiart  of  this  (greatest  oi'  tlio  navigable  rivers 
in  the  worhl,  can  form  but  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  its 
jrrandeur,  and  the  maj^nificencc  of  its  scenery.  Above 
the  island  of  Orleans,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  comparatively 
confined  to  a  narrow  channel  passinj^  through  a  level 
country,  oflcring  much  sameness  on  the  south  shore,  with 
the  mountains  on  the  north,  too  distant  to  produce  mucli 
cfloct.  Tiic  v"''.ws  on  the  great  Lakes  of  the  St.  Law- 
rencc  in  the  Upper  Province,  slrolehing  out  of  siglit  of 
land,  differ  little  from  those  on  any  extended  sea  coast 
Btuddcd  with  islands,  and  bordered  with  towns  and  hab- 
itations. 

The  St.  lawfcnce  below  the  Island  of  Orleans,  from 
many  points  on  its  northern  banks,  lays  open  to  the  view 
f^  a  hundred  miles  of  a  river  var3-ing  from  twenty  to  twenty. 

five  miles  in  width,  the  whole  course  and  coast  of  which, 
in  this  clear  atmosphere,  can  bo  distinctly  discerned. 
Beautiful  islands  covered  with  neat  dweUings  and  culti. 
vated  fields,  contrast  with  those  that  are  of  bare  rock,  or 
covered  with  wood  ;  the  crowded  settlements,  the  villages 
and  distant  highlands  on  the  south  shore,  are  opposed  to 
the  bold  and  lofty  mountains  of  the  north,  crowned  with 
the  native  forests,  and  impending  over  the  margin  of  the 
river,  while  the  valleys  formed  b}  the  streams  and  tor- 
rents  of  these  mountain  regions,  leave  openings  in  which 
the  village  ppircs  are  discernible  in  front  of  the  bare,  rug- 
ged and  stupendous  ranges  in  the  interior.  In  other  pla- 
ces the  settlements  extend  nearly  to  the  tops  of  tlic 
mountains,  presenting  to  the  view  ueat  dwellings,  luxuri- 
ant harvests,  and  green  fields,  etched  out  on  the  face  of 


SAGITENAY  RIVKR. 


275 


the  wildest  of  nature's  domains.  Along  the  main  chan- 
nel of  the  river,  numbers  of  the  thousands  of  vessels  which 
frequent  Quebec  during^  the  season  of  navijration,  aro 
continually  passing  up  or  down  under  crowded  sails,  or 
quietly  anchored,  wailing  the  tides  or  winds,  and  from 
behind  every  cape  and  promontory,  among  the  islands, 
and  in  every  bay  and  creek,  the  smaller  vessels  and  boats 
arc  constantly  plying  in  the  industrious  pursuits  of  the  in- 
habilants,  or  on  excursions  of  social  intercourse.  It  is  a 
scene  which  elevates  the  mind  to  devout  contemplation, 
and  a  just  appreciation  oi  the  benefits  of  peaceful  industry. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
estimated  at  about  100,000. 

The  Saguenay,  which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  on  its 
northern  shore,  about  100  miles  below  Quebec,  is  one  of 
the  most  extraordinary  rivers  in  the  world.  It  is  the 
grand  outlet  of  the  waters  from  the  Saguenay  country 
into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  although  only  a  tributary 
stream,  has  the  appearance  of  a  long  mountain  lake,  in 
an  extent  of  fifty  miles,  rather  than  tliat  of  a  river.  The 
scenery  is  of  the  most  wild  and  magnificent  description. 
The  river  varies  from  about  a  mile  to  two  miles  in  breadth, 
and  follows  its  impetuous  course  in  a  south-east  direction, 
through  a  deep  valley  formed  by  mountains  of  gneiss  and 
sienitic  granite,  which  in  some  places  rise  vertically  from 
the  water  side  to  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet. 

There  is  a  feature  attending  this  ri.ver,  which  renders 

it  a  natural  curiosity,  and  is  probably  the  only  instance 

of  the  kind.     The  St.  Lawrence  is  about  eighteen  miles 

wide  at  their  confluence,  and  has  a  depth  of  about  two 

hundred  and  forty  feet.     A  ridge  of  rocks  below  the  sur- 

y2 


.^i  Hn 


i 


276 


SAGUENAY  IllVER. 


face  of  the  water,  throiifrli  which  thrn;  is  a  cl)anru'l  ahnnt 
onu  liundrcd  and  twenty  feet  deep,  lies  across  the.  jnoutli 
of  the  Sagucnay,  witliin  which  llio  depih  increases  to 
ciglit  hundred  and  forty  feet,  8o  that  tlio  hcd  of  the 
Sajriu-nay  is  absolutely  six  hiuidrrd  feet  below  thatof  ilic 
St.  Lawrence  into  which  it  falls,  a  dij»th  which  is  pre- 
served  many  miles  up  the  river.  So  extraordinary  a  fea- 
ture could  only  occur  in  a  rocky  country,  such  as  is  found 
in  some  j)arts  of  Canada,  where  the  btauties  of  nature 
are  displayed  in  their  wildest  form.  The  course  of  tho 
tide,  meeting  with  rcnistancc  from  the  rockr,  at  tho  mouth 
of  tho  Saj^ucnay,  occasions  a  violent  ripplin|T  or  surf, 
which  is  much  increased  and  exceedingly  danijerous  to 
boats  during  the  ebb  tide.  The  extraordinary  depth  (.1" 
the  river,  and  the  total  want  of  information  concerninfxif, 
has  given  rise  to  an  idea  amon^  the  credulous  fishermen, 
of  its  being  in  many  parts  unfathomable.  This  effect  is 
admissible  on  uninformed  minds,  for  there  is  always  an 
appearance  of  mystery  about  a  river  when  its  water  in 
even  discoloured  so  as  to  prevent  the  bed  from  being 
seen,  and  the  delusion  is  here  powerfully  assisted  by  the 
lofty  overshadowing  precipices  of  cither  shore. 

Following  the  course  of  the  river  upwards,  it  preserves 
a  westerly  direction  to  the  distance  of  GO  miles,  in  some 
parts  about  half  a  mile  broad,  in  others  expanding  into 
small  lakes,  about  two  miles  across  to  their  borders,  hc'mrr 
interspersed  with  a  few  low  islands.  In  the  narrow  parts 
of  the  river,  the  depth  at  the  distance  of  a  few  yards  from 
the  precipice  forming  the  bank  is  six  hundred  feet,  and  m 
the  middle  of  the  river  it  increases  to  nearly  nine  hundred. 
Here  the  navigation  is  suddenly  terminated  by  a  succcs 


UrEOKC    TO    MONTRKAL. 


277 


sion  of  falls  and  rapida,  near  wliich  is  sittiatcd  llic  tradinjr 
port  of  Chicot  imy.  At  this  place  there  is  an  old  chiirch, 
built  about  two  centuries  a;rc,  by  iho  Jesuits,  who  were 
active  in  civilizing  the  native  Indians.  The  church  is 
still  kept  in  decent  repair  by  the  Indians,  and  is  annu- 
ally visited  by  a  missionary  priest.  These  pcoj)le  arc  few 
in  nund»er  and  are  not  to  be  met  with  between  this  tra- 
din^  post  and  the  mouth  of  the  river.  A  fine  tract  of 
country  couinionces  here,  intersected  by  several  rivers 
issuinjr  from  Lake  St.  Jo..n,  distant  about  sixty-seven 
miles  farther  to  ihe  westward.  The  little  connnuniration 
which  is  carried  on  with  this  lake  is,  by  means  of  these 
rivers,  in  bark  canoes  and  batteaux  and  flat  bottomed 
boats  of  the  country  ;  but  it  is  si;bject  t  j  much  intcrrup- 
tion  from  the  portajje  or  carryinjr  places  necessary  to  avoid 
the  numerous  falls  in  them.  The  tide  of  eni'irration  is 
directed  in  this  quarter. 

It  was  in  this  river  that  the  s]ii})S  of  the  French  8(|Uad- 
ron  found  a  secure  retreat,  at  the  memorable  siege  of 
Quebec  under  Gen.  Wolfe. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  LauTcnce,  3G0  miles  helow 
Quebec,  the  river  is  100  miles  wide.  It  here  connects 
with  the  (iulf  of  St.  Lawrcnc(;,  350  miles  lonj^  and  150 
wide,  which  communicates  with  the  Atlantic  by  three 
different  passages. 

FROM    QUEBEC    TO    MONTREAL. 

In  returning  to  Montreal,  the  traveller  (as  before  re- 
marked) should,  if  practicable,  take  a  boat  at  such  an 
hour,  as  to  give  him  a  chance  of  viewing  by  day-light  on 


'I 


.^J 


i 

I 


•  r»    I 


m 


'      f>-i*'i 


278 


MONTREAL    TO    WHITEHALL. 


i  n 


\i\ 


the  river  the  scenery  which,  in  descending,  was  passed  in 
the  night. 

The  approrxh  to  Montreal  in  ascending  the  river  is 
extremely  bci.vutifiil.  Tlie  mount  behind  the  city  clothed 
in  a  rich  and  unbroken  foliage,  the  numerous  adjacent 
country  seals,  the  si)ires  and  edifices  of  the  city,  and  the 
beautiful  woody  island  in  front,  all  conspire  in  presenting 
a  rich  and  truly  diversified  landsca})e,  and  one  that  will  not 
be  easily  effaced  from  the  memory.  [For  a  description  of 
Montreal,  see  j).  251.] 

FROM     MONTREAL*    TO    WHITTIHALL 

Is  178  miles,  and  the  intervening  distances  are  as  fol- 
lows : 


Miles. 

By  stcamhoat. 
From    Montreal    to 
La  Prairie, 7 

By  rail  road. 
St.  Johns, 17  24 

By  steamboat. 

Isle  AuxNoix, 14  38 

Rouse's  Point, 10  48 

Chazy, 12  60 


Miles. 

Plattsburgh, 15     '/  5 

Port  Kent 15     90 

Burlington, 11  101 

Split  Rotk, 12  113 

Essex, 2  115 

Basin  Harbor,....   12  127 
Crown  Point,,....   12  139 

Ticonderoga, 1^154 

Whitehall, 2.^ 


'178 

La  Prairie,  7  miles  from  Montreal,  is  reached  by 
steamboat.     It  is  a  village  of  between  two  and  three  hun- 


*  At  Montreal  a  stage  can  be  taken  for  Danville,  Vt. 
distant  100  miles ;  thence  to  the  Notch  in  the  White 
Mountains,  28  miles ;  thence  to  Concord,  N.  H.,  75 
miles ;  and  thence  to  Boston,  68  miles.  The  whole 
route  is  performed  in  four  days.  [For  a  description 
of  the  White  Mountains,  see  "  Route  from  Burling- 
ton to  Boston."] 


dred 
twee: 

TJi 
at  Ml 
point 
road, 
remar 


p. 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


279 


dred  houses,  and  is  the  grand  thoroughfare  of  trade  be- 
tween Montreal  and  St.  Johns. 

The  La  Prairie  and  St.  Joirxs  Kail  Road  commences 
at  this  place  and  extends  to  St.  Johns,  tlic  terminating 
point  of  steamboat  navigation  on  Lake  Champlain.  Tlic 
road,  wliich  is  17  miles  long,  is  very  ptraiglit,  and  over  a 
remarkably  level  country  ;  and  the  time  usually  employed 
in  passing  over  it  by  steam  is  one  hour. 

St.  Johns,  17  miles.  Tliir  place  was  an  important 
post  during  the  French  and  U^vjl-jtionar}'  wars.  In  ihe 
latter  it  was  taken  after  a  ^^.iUiu.  defence,  by  General 
Montgomery,  as  was  also  C1..  aioiy.  It  contains,  at 
present,  150  houses  and  1000  inhabitants.  Though  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  it  possesses  nothing  in 
its  appearance  or  accommodations  inviting  to  a  stran- 
ger. Steamboats  leave  St.  Johns  daily  for  Whitehall, 
and  touch  at  all  the  intermediate  places  on  the  lake. 
Fare  through,  f^5. 

LAKE    CHAMPLAIN 

Forms  part  of  the  boundar^'  line  between  the  states  of 
New- York  and  Vermont.  Its  length  is  140  miles,  and 
the  greatest  breadth  14.  A  great  proportion  of  the  lands 
on  the  mar«rin  of  the  lake  are  etill  unredeemed  from  a 
state  of  nature,  and  in  some  places,  particularly  at  the 
north  end,  are  low  and  marshy.  After  entering  the  terri 
torics  of  the  United  States,  the  country  is  more  popu- 
lous,  and  under  a  better  state  of  iraprovemcjit.  The  vil- 
lages seen  from  the  lake  all  exhibit  a  cheerful  and  thriving 
appearance.  The  lake  proi)erly  terminates  at  Mount  In- 
dependence ;    whence   to   Whitehall,  a   distance   of  23 


*Mm 


280 


PLATTSBURGH. 


mi  i 


,11 

mi  i'^;: 


miles,  it  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  river,  in  which  little 
more  than  room  is  left  at  any  point  to  turn  the  boat. 
The  history  of  Champlain  involves  many  interesting 
events  associated  with  the  French  and  Revolutionary 
wars.  During  those  periods  several  fortificaLions  were 
constructed,  which  have  since  undergone  some  repairs, 
but  arc  now  in  a  state  of  decay.  Tiic  ruins  of  the  ancient 
fortress  at  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  are  still  visible. 

Isle  Aux  Noix,  ]4  miles  from  St.  Johns.  This  is  a 
strong  military  and  naval  post  possessed  by  the  English. 
The  w^orks  are  generally  in  good  preservation  ;  and  arc 
occupied  by  a  small  military  corps.  In  the  expedition 
against  Canada  in  1775,  the  troops  under  Generals  Schuy- 
ler  and  Montgomery  went  down  the  lake  in  rafts  and 
landed  at  this  island,  whence  they  proceeded  to  St, 
Johns.  The  other  detachment,  under  General  Arnold, 
marched  by  land  through  the  present  state  of  Maine  (then 
a  wilderness)  to  Quebec. 

Rouse's  Pol\t,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  and 
10  miles  from  the  Isle  Aux  Noix,  contains  strong  stone 
fortifications,  erected  by  the  United  States,  but  which  bv 
the  decision  of  the  commissioners  appointed  to  settle  the 
boundary  line  between  the  American  and  British  govern- 
ments, fell  within  ihe  territories  of  the  latter. 

The  village  of  Plattsburgh,  27  miles  further,  is  hand- 
somely located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  river,  on  the 
west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  about  350 
u'.'^ellings,  besides  the  court  house  and  prison  for  tin 
couMty,  a  bank  and  several  churches.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  is  about  3000.     I'his  place  is  rendered  ccle- 


■^ 


rLATTSnURGH. 


281 


hand- 
on  the 
)ut  350 
for  th' 
mber  of 
;d  cele- 


brated by  the  brilhant  victory  of  M'Donough  and  Ma- 
comb, over  the  iiritish  land  and  naval  fi)rccs  under  Sir 
George  Provost  and  Commodore   Downie.     The  naval 
engagement   took  place  in  front  of  tlic  village,  which 
overlooks  the  extensive  Bay  of  Plaltsbiirgh  for  several 
miles.     Here  the  American  Commodore  waited  at  anchor 
the  arrival  of  the  British  fleet,  which  appeared  passing 
Cumberland  Head,  about  8  in  the  morning  of  the   11th 
September,  1814.     The  first  gun  from  the  licet  was  the 
signal  for  commencing  the  attack  on  land.     Sir  George 
Provost,  with  about  14,000  men,  furiously  assaulted  the 
defences  of  the  town,   whilst  the  battle  raged  with  in- 
creasing ardor  betwocn  the  fleets,  then  contending  in  full 
view  of  the  respective  armies.     General  Macomb,  with 
his  gallant  little  army,  consi-^ting  of  about  3000  men, 
mostly  undisciplined,  foiled  the  repeated  assaults  of  the 
enemy,  until  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet,  after  an  ac- 
tion of  two  hours,  obliged  him  to  retire,  with  the  loss  of 
2500  men,  together  with  considerable  baggage  and  am- 
munition.    The  American  force  on  the  lake  consisted  of 
86  guns  and  820  men  ;  and  was  opposed  to  a  force  of 
95  guns  and  1050  men.     Thus  ended  the  aflair  at  Platts- 
Imrgh,  no  less  honorable  to  American  valor  than  disas- 
trous  to  the   British   arms.      Commodore   Downie   was 
killed  in  the  engagement.     He  was  represented  as  a  brave 
and  skilful  officer  ;  but  was  opposed  to  the  method  of  at- 
tack  on  the  American  flotilla. 

A  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Commodore 
Downie,  in  the  church  yard  at  Plattsburgh,  contains  the 
following  inscription  : 


^d 


H 

'li!   i* 
Si 

ri 


282 


PLATTSBURGH. 


mi 


il 


'■;,!■  I 


"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  George  Downie,  Esq.  a 
Post  Captain  in  the  Royal  Britisli  Navy,  who  jrloriously 
fell  on  board  his  B.  M.  S.  the  Confiancc,  whilo  Icadin*^ 
the  vessels  under  liis  command  to  the  attack  of  the  Amcr- 
ioan  flotilla  at  anchor  in  Cumberland  Bay,  off  Plattsburgh, 
on  the  lltli  September,  1814.  To  mark  the  spot  where 
the  remains  of  a  gallant  officer  and  sincere  friend  were 
honorably  interred,  this  st'onc;  has  been  erected  by  his  af- 
fectionate sister-in-la};  Mary  Downie." 

Tho  remains  of  a  number  of  officers  of  both  armies, 
who  fell  in  tho  engagement,  repose  near  the  Commodore, 
v/ith  no  monument  to  inform  the  stranger,  and  with  no 
record  but  tradition  to  denote  the  spot  of  their  interment. 
East  of  Downie  are  five  graves,  occurring  in  the  follow- 
ing order:  commencing  south — Captain  Copeland,  an 
American  ofliccr — Lieut.  Stansbury,  of  the  American  na- 
vy— Lieut.  Runk,  of  the  American  army — Lieut.  Gam- 
ble,  of  the  American  navy — and  a  British  Sergeant.  On 
the  north  side  of  Downie  are  the  remains  of  the  British 
Lt.  Col.  Wellington — on  the  south  two  British  Lieuten- 
ants— on  the  west,  Captain  Purchase  and  four  other  offi- 
cers, three  of  whom  were  British. 

The  traveller  will  find  many  ol.jects  of  interest  at 
Plattsburgh,  which  will  warrant  his  continuance  there 
for  one  or  two  days.  A  short  distance  from  the  village 
are  tho  cantonment  and  breast  works  occupied  by  General 
Macomb  and  his  troops  during  the  last  war.  A  mile  north 
is  shown  the  house  possessed  by  Gen.  Prevost  as  his  head 
quarters  during  the  siege  in  1814;  between  which  and 
the  village,  the  marks  of  cannon  shot  on  trees  and  other 
objects,  are  still  visible.    Farther  onward,  about  5  milesi 


PORT  KENT — ADGATE's  FALLS- 


28»- 


on  a  hill  overlooking  the  village  of  Beekmantown,  is  shown' 
the  spot  where  a  sanjruinary  cnt,^a{rcmcnt  took  place  be- 
tween the  American  and  British  troops,  \\hich  resulted  in 
the  death  of  the  Britisii  Col.  Wrllinirton,  and  several  men 
of  botli  armies.  Col.  W.  was  killed  in  the  centre  of  the 
road,  about  equidistant  from  the  summit  and  foot  of  the 
]..ill. 

Mr.Donou'rJt^s  Farm,  jrrantod  by  the  legislature  of  Ver- 
jnont,  lies  on  Cumberland  Head,  nearly  east  of  Platts- 
burgh ;  a  ride  to  which,  around  the  bay,  in  the  warm 
season,  is  refreshing  and  delightful. 

Port  KexNt,  15  miles  southerly  from  Plattsburgh  by 
water,  and  15  by  land.  It  contains  a  few  buildings  and  a 
wharf,  at  which  passengers  are  landed  from  the  steam 
boat.  From  this  place  may  be  seen,  on  the  north,  the 
Isle  la  Mott,  2G  miles  distant,  Grand  Island,  the  Two 
Sisters,  Point  la  Roche,  Cumberland  Head,  and  Belcore 
and  Macomb  Islands ;  on  the  cast,  Stave,  Providence 
and  Hog  Islands,  Colchester  Point,  and  the  Green  Moun- 
tains of  Vermont ;  on  the  south,  the  village  of  Burlington, 
J  !"out  11  miles  distant,  with  the  high  peak  called  the 
Camel's  Rump  ;  the  whole  forming  a  most  deliglitful  and 
pleasant  landscape  not  excelled  at  any  other  point  of  the 
lake  passage.  Three  miles  west  from  Port  Kent,  are  the 
celebrated 

Adgate's  Falls.  They  arc  situated  on  the  river  Au 
Sable,  and  take  their  name  from  a  person  residing  there, 
who  is  the  proprietor  of  some  valuable  mills  in  the  vicinity. 
The  water  pours  over  a  precipice  about  80  feet  in  height, 
into  a  narrow  chaimel  of  the  river,  the  banks  of  which. 


'\  '1 


r^. 


&84 


1BURL1N0T0M. 


;>^ 


:;      m 


consist  of  rock,  rising  perpendicularly  to  the  height  of 
from  GO  to  100  feet.     At  wliat  is  called  the 

High  Bridge,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  the 
channel  is  narrowed  to  27  feet.  Tiic  height  of  the  rocks 
here,  which  are  perpendicular,  is  93  feet,  and  the  water 
35  feet  deep.  Over  thia  chasm  a  bridjro  was  once  erected, 
by  throwing  timbers  across ;  but  it  has  since  decayed. 
The  sensations  produced  on  looking  into  this  gulf  are  tcr- 
rific,  and  the  stoutest  heart  involuntarily  shrinks  from  the 
contemplation.  There  is  an  indifferent  road  from  the 
falls  to  the  High  Bridge,  but,  with  this  exception,  the 
spot  is  yet  a  wilderness. 

About  4  miles  in  a  v/estcrly  direction  from  this,  is  the 
thriving  village  of  Keesf.ville,  which  contains  several 
manufactories,  a  bank,  and  a  number  of  handsome  resi- 
denccs.  It  is  a  place  of  much  enterprise,  and  is  destined 
to  become  a  large  town. 

BuRLLXGTON*  Is  situatcd  on  the  cast  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  about  24  miles  southeast  of  Plattsburgh.  This  is 
one  of  those  beautiful  villages  which  so  often  attract  tlic 
notice  of  a  stranger  in  the  New-England  states.  The 
ground  rises  with  a  moderate  ascent  from  the  lake,  and 
presents  a  slope  covered  with  handsome  houses  and  trees, 
On  the  highest  part  of  the  eminence,  which  is  330  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  lake,  stands  the  University  of  Ver- 
mont. This  summit  commands  a  noble  view  of  the  lake 
and  the  adjacent  country,  for   many  miles.     There  are 

*  Travellers  designing  to  visit  Bo'-'ton,  frequently  take 
a  stage  at  tliis  place,  on  a  route  which  is  noticed  in  a  sub- 
sequent part  of  this  work. 


J': 


it  of 

,  the 

rocks 
water 
3ctcd, 
5aycd. 
re  tcr- 
im  the 
m  the 
n,  the 

,  is  the 
several 
ne  resi- 
les tined 

Cham- 
This  is 
act  the 
,     The 
:e,  and 
|d  trees. 
130  ^cet 
of  Ver- 
[he  lake 
^ere  arc 

tly  take 
asub- 


bPLIT  ROCK — CROWN  POINT. 


28i; 


here  about  350  hous'^s  and  stores,  two  banks,  a  court 
house,  jail,  and  several  churclics.  About  12  miles  frons 
Burlington,  in  the  town  of  Wiilsborough,  (N.  Y.)  is  what 
is  called  the 

Split  Rock.  This  curiosity  is  a  part  of  a  rocky  prom- 
ontory projectinj^  into  the  lake,  on  the  west  side,  about 
150  feet,  and  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  water  about 
12  feet.  Tlic  part  broken  off  contains  about  half  an  acre, 
covered  with  trees,  and  is  separated  from  the  main  rock 
about  20  feet.  The  opposite  sides  exactly  fit  each  other — 
the  prornmences  in  the  one  corresponding  with  the  cavi-^ 
tics  in  the  other.  Through  this  fissure  a  line  has  been 
let  down  to  the  depth  of  500  feet  without  finding  bottom. 

Crown  Point  is  situated  36  miles  from  Burlington,  on 
the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.     It  is  formed  by  an  ex- 
tensive deep  bay  on  the  west,  skirted   .  y  a  steep  moun- 
tain, and  on  the  north  .ind  east  by  the  body  of  the  lake. 
The  elevated  pi." in  was  first  occupied  by  the  French,  in 
1731,  as  a  military  position,  and  abandoned  by  them  in 
1759,  when  Gen.  Amherst  took  po?f;csRion  of  it,  and  built 
Fort  Frederick.    The  ruins  of  this  fort  may  still  be  traced, 
being  situated  directly  opposite  to  Chimney  Point  on  the 
south  side  of  the  bay.     i^.fter  the  peace  of  1763,  it  was 
occupied  by  a  subaltern  and  a  mere  safeguard,  until  it 
was  burnt  by  accident  some  time  previous  to  the  Ameri- 
can revolution.     In  1775  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Americans,  and  was  afterwards  evacuated  by  them,  on 
the  advance  of  Burgoyne,  in  1776.     A  few  years  since  a 
number  of  British  guineas  were  found  here,  from  the  ac- 
cidental crumbling  of  the  earth  from  the  banks  where 
they  had  been  deposited. 


■  I 


t-i  f 


:i 


.    ,?i'^" 


^T 


11 


ill 


286 


TICONDEROGA — WHITE  itAXL. 


TicoNDERoGA,  whicli  lias  already  been  noticed,  (see  p. 
157,)  is  situated  15  milc.^  south  of  Crown  Point,  and  24 
miles  north  of  Whitehall. 

One  mile  from  Ticonderoga  is  Mount  Independence, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  lake  ;  near  the  foot  of  which  the 
remains  of  a  small  battery  are  still  to  be  seen.  What 
-was  called  the  IlorKe-Shoe  battery  was  on  an  elevation 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear. 

Nine  miles  farther,  the  lake  is  contracted  into  four 
narrow  channels,  bounded  on  the  west  and  east  by  lofty 
mountains. 

South  and  East  Bays  arc  soon  reached,  each  of  about 
5  miles  in  extent.  The  former  was  taken  by  Gen.  Dies- 
kau  and  his  army,  in  their  route  towards  Fort  Edward  in 
1755.  From  the  latter  bay  to  Whitehall,  the  passage  is 
extremely  narrow  and  of  a  serpentine  course,  and  cannot 
be  pursued  in  safety  during  a  dark  night. 

Whitehall,*  terminates  the  steamboat  navigation  of 
Lake  Champlain.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  Wood  creek  at  its  entrance  into 
the  laltc,  73  miles  north  of  Albany,  and  contains  about 
250  dwellings  and  stores,  and  2000  inhabitants.  The  sit. 
uation  of  this  place  is  low  and  unpleasant.  It  derives  its 
principal  consequence  from  the  navigation  of  the  lake, 
w4iieh  is  passable  for  sloops  of  80  tons  burthen,  and  from 
the  Champlain  canal,  which  here  enters  the  lake  Bur- 
goyne  occupied  this  place  for  a  short  time,  preparatory  to 


*  A  route  from  this  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  post, 
p.  306. 


CHAMPLAIN  CANAL. 


287 


his  march  to  Saratoga;  and  on  the  heijyiits,  over  the 
harbor,  are  the  remains  of  a  battery  and  block  house. 

THE  CHAMPLAIN  CANAL, 

Commencinfr  at  "Whitehall,  proceeds  south  5  1-2  miles, 
when  it  enters  Wood  creek,  a  narrow  sluggish  stream,  av- 
eraging  15  feet  in  depth.  The  creek  is  connected  with 
the  canal,  and  is  rendered  navigable  for  boats  for  about 
C  1-2  miles  to  Fort  Ann  village.  Thence  the  canal  pro- 
ceeds through  Fort  Ann,  ivingsbury  and  Fort  Fidward,  to 
Fort  Miller  falls,  below  which  the  canal  enters  the  Hudson 
river,  which  is  made  navigable  3  miles  to  Saratoga  falls, 
where  the  canal  is  taken  out  of  the  river  on  the  west 
side,  and  proceeds  through  Saratoga,  Stillwater  and  Half- 
moitn  to  Waterford,  where  it  enters  the  Hudson,  and  by 
a  branch  canal  enters  the  Mohawk,  which  it  crosses  by  a 
dam  and  continuing  3-4  of  a  mile,  joins  the  Erie  canal 
in  the  town  of  Watervliet.  The  \vholc  lengtii  of  the 
Champlain  canal  is  63  miles.  The  cost  to  the  state,  ex- 
clusive of  the  feeder  from  Glen's  Falls,  was  $875,000. 

The  interveninff  distances  on  the  canal  between  White- 
hall  and  Albany  arc  as  follows : 


Miles.  ' 

Fort  Ann, 12 

Sandy  Hill, 8  20 

Fort  Edward, 2  22 

Fort  Miller  Falls,..  8  30 

Saratoga  Falls, ....  333 

Schuylerville, 2  35 

Bemus'  Heights, ...  12  47 


z2 


Miles. 

Stillwater  V 3  50 

Mechanicsville,. . . .  3  53 

Waterford, 8  61 

Watervliet,  ....<...  2  63 

Gibbonsville, 2  65 

Albany, ..•••.••••  671 


^'^'■^ 


>, 


t' 


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M,i?Wl 


'ft 


1 


k  liil'tJ 


288 


FORT  ANN. 


iid     '» 


M^i^'''n 


FROM   WniTKIIALL  TO  TROY  AND  ALBANY. 

HY  STMii:  AND  RAIL  ROAD. 

Stajres  leave  Whitehall  every  ..ing  on  the  arrival 
of  the  Champlain  steamboats,  ai.  iv,acli  Saratoga  Springs 
in  time  to  dine  ;  whence  the  rail  road  is  taken  for  Troy  or 
Albany  immediately  after  dinner.  The  whole  distance  to 
the  former  place  is  70  miles — to  the  latter  7C,  and  tlie 
intermediate  distances  as  IbUow  : 


Ihf  mil  road. 

Ballston  Spa,* 7  46 

Baliston  L:ike,  ....     5  51 

Sehenectad}^ 10  (i  I 

BiicPsfarm, V2  73 

Albany, 3  7G 


Miles. 
By  sfaffe. 
From  Whitehall   to 

Fort  Ann, 11 

Sandy  H;11, 10  lil 

Fortville, 7  ^8 

Wilton, 4  3r} 

Saratoga  Springs, . .  7  39 

The  route  is  in  a  southern  direction  near  the  line  of 
the  canal,  until  reaching  Fort  Ann  ;  half  a  mile  north  of 
which  place,  at  an  elbow  made  by  Wood  creek,  leaving 
barely  room  between  the  creek  and  a  precipitous  hill  for 
the  road,  a  severe  engagement  took  place  in  1777,  be- 
tween a  detachment  of  Burgoyne's  troops  and  a  party  of 
Americans,  under  the  command  of  Col.  Sterry,  who  were 
on  their  retreat  from  Ticonderoga.  The  Americans  were 
on  the  plain  south  of  the  hill,  which  served  as  a  cover  to 
the  British.  Their  fire  on  S terry's  forces  below  was  de- 
structive, and  compelled  him  to  abandon  his  position. 

The  village  of  Fort  Ann,  11  miles  from  Whitehall, 
contains  70  or  80  houses,  and  is  loacated  on  the  site  of 

*  For  a  description  of  the  rail  road  route  to  Troy,  see 
p.  127  to  132. 


9 


~;j« 
4 


FOllTVILLE. 


989 


the  old  fort  erected  diirin;^  the   b'rcnch  war.     tt  was  at 
the  north  part  of  the  villaj^o  on  the  bank  of  the  creek. 

Bnr^Vnjne^s  mad,  comnitncinir  about  2  miles  south  of 
the  village,  and  pursuinjr  nearly  the  course  of  the  present 
road,  is  still  visible.  It  was  a  causeway,  formed  by  logs 
laid  transversely,  a  labor  which  became  necessary  in  con- 
veying his  cannon  and  baggage  waggons  to  Saratoga. 

Sanuv  IIill,  10  miles  farther.     (See  p.  14!).) 

FoRTViLLE,  a  small  village  in  the  town  of  Moreau,  is  7 
miles  farther.  About  half  a  mile  west  of  the  villagCy 
there  is  a  large  spring,  which  ebbs  and  flows  regularly 
with  the  tide.  It  rises  through  a  body  of  beautiful  fine 
sand,  containing  yellow  particles  of  a  melalic  substancCr 
and  has  been  found  to  answer  every  [uirpose  of  the  j»urest 
emery.  It  partakes,  also,  so  much  of  the  character  of 
quick  sand,  that  every  weighty  substance  pL  ;ed  in  the 
spring,  even  the  longest  sticks  of  timber,  are  soon  drawn 
beneath  the  suface.  Falling,  or  even  stej)ping  into  the 
fountain,  therefore,  is  considered  extremely  dangerous. 
At  low  water,  the  surface  is  nearly  dry;  but  at  high  tide, 
the  water  is  seen  boiling  up  at  several  points,  covering  an 
area  of  near  a  quarter  of  an  acre. 

About  a  mile  south  of  FortvUle,  the  stage  passes  over 
an  eminence,  which  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Green 
Mountains  of  Vermont  at  tJic  east  and  the  intermediate 
country ;  three  miles  from  w  hich  is  Wilton  church ; 
whence  to  Saratoga  Springs  is  7  miles.  [For  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  latter  place,  together  with  the  routes  by  rail 
road  to  Troy  and  Albany,  seep.  119  to  144.] 


.;:?fli 


IH'^;^ 


fit"! 


M 


I 


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1.1  ;;:^ 


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1 


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k 


290  ^ 


NFAV  LEBANON. 


ROUTES  TO   BOSTON. 

These  arc  so  varioun,  tiiat,  llie  traveller  may  always  be 
governed  by  his  own  taste  and  jiujfjnicnt  in  a  selection. 
The  route  from  Albany  has  been  ehosen  by  many  on  ac- 
count  of  cnjoyin^^  in  the  excursion  a  visit  to  the  Lebanon 
Springs,  and  several  of  the  populous  and  wealthy  towns  in 
the  interior  of  Massachusetts  ;  w  bile  others  have  prefer- 
red a  course  whicli  should  embrace  the  rich  mountain 
Hccncry  of  Vermont  and  New-IIampsnirc,  commencing 
their  excursions  cither  at  Saratoga  Springs,  Whitehall  or 
Burlington.  \Vc  therefore  subjoin  a  description  of  the 
different  routes. 

FROM   ALBANY   TO  BOSTON, 

Via  Nein  Lebanon — 1G7  miles. 

The  intermediate  distances  arc  as  follow : 

Miles. 
By  stage. 


Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12  17 

New  Lebanon,. ...  8  2^ 

Pittsfield, 9  31 

Dalton, 6  40 

Peru, 7  47 

Worthington, 8  5.5 

Chesterfield, 9  64 

Northampton, ....  13  77 

Albany,  {see'p.  116.) 

Nsw  Lebanon,  is  a  pleasant  village  in  the  town  of 
Canaan,  N.  Y.  bordering  on  Pittsfield,  Mass.  and  is  25 
miles  from  Albany.  It  contains  a  mineral  spring  of  con. 
siderable  importance,  which  is  much  frequented  in  the 
summer  months  by  invahds.     It  is  principally  used  for 


Miles. 

Iladley, 2     79 

Rclchertown, 10     89 

Ware, 9     98 

Urookficld, 8  1U6 

Spencer, 7  113 

Leicester, 5  118 

Worcester, C  124 

By  rail  road. 
Boston, 43  167 


i^. 


*., 


ays  be 
cction. 

on  uc- 
cbaiion 
jwns  in 

prefer- 
ouula'.n 
icncing 
chall  or 
I  of  the 


Miles. 


2 

79 

10 

89 

9 

98 

8 

1U6 

7 

113 

5 

118 

G 

121 

43  167 


town  of 
[d  is  25 
of  con- 
in  the 
ised  for 


ftrc^nr.LO. 


291? 


llio  piifpoie  of  bathing  ;  but  is  much  inferior  to  the  Sara- 
toga waters  citluras  a  medicine  or  bevcrajre.  Tlic  foun- 
tain issues  from  the  side  of  a  iiij:;h  lii!!,  in  ^^rcat  abundance, 
discharrring  at  tiio  rate  of  IH  i)arrcls  [)er  minute;  and  i3 
used  as  a  ft^edcr  for  rjvcral  mills.  Tiio  water  is  remark- 
ably pure  and  soft,  and  is  perfectly  tasteless  and  inodor- 
ous. Gas,  in  considerable  quautiJie?*,  ct^capes  from  the 
pebbles  and  sand,  and  ke(  p3  the  water  in  constant  mo- 
tion. It  contains  small  ([uantitics  of  nniriate  of  lime,  mu- 
riate of  soda,  sulphate  of  lime,  and  carbonate  of  liuie  > 
and  its  temperature  is  73  degrees  of  Fahrenheit. 

Convenient  bathing  houses  are  kept  in  readiness  at  ail 
times  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers ;  and  there  arc 
a  number  of  boarding  establishments  which,  at  diflerenl; 
rates,  afford  proportionate  fare.  Among  these,  the  Nav- 
arino  Hotel  is  a  spacious  and  well  furnished  establishment; 
calculated  to  accommodate  from  100  to  150  guests. 

Near  the  spring  is  what  is  called  tlic  Shakers'  Village., 
containing  a  number  of  neat  plain  buildings,  generally 
painted  yellow.  The  property  of  this  society  is  held  in 
common  ;  and  they  are  said  to  possess  nearly  3000  acres 
of  fertile  land.  Besides  agricultural  pursuits,  they  carry 
on  several  branches  of  manufactures,  wliicli  are  distin- 
guished by  excellence  of  workmanship.  The  singular 
regulations  and  ceremonies  of  these  people,  constitute  p.n 
object  of  attention  to  tourists.  Nine  miles  from  New 
Lebanon  is  the  village  of 

PiTTSKiELD,  rendered  elegant  from  its  local  situation, 
and  from  the  neatness  of  its  buildings.  The  village  con- 
tains from  150  to  200  houses,  a  bank,  a  medical  college 


■  ' « 


1 .1 


tl 


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3  '■  iT'ifi 


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1 1  .'1  II 


N 


292 


NORTHAMPTON — MOUNT  IIOLYOKE. 


■containing  one  of  the  best  anatomical  museums  in  the  U. 
States,  an  academy  and  several  stores.  Here  are  annual- 
ly held  the  cattle  show  and  fair  of  the  celebrated  Berk- 
shire Agricultural  Society,  which  has  been  incorporated 
by  act  of  the  legislature ;  and  which  has  done  more  to- 
wards improving  the  condition  of  agriculture  than  any 
other  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  union.  The  show  and 
fair,  which  occupy  two  days,  never  fail  to  impart  an  unu- 
sual degree  of  interest,  and  arc  always  attended  by  im- 
mense crowds  of  citizens. 

Northampton  is  43  miles  from  Pittsfield,  and  is  one  of 
the  finest  towns  in  New-England.  It  is  situated  a  mile 
-and  a  lialf  west  of  Connecticut  river,  and  was  settled  as 
early  as  the  year  1654.  It  contains  2  academies,  several 
churches,  a  bank,  court  house,  jail,  and  350  dwellings, 
some  of  which  are  very  elegant.  Here  are  also  several 
manufactories,  and  the  place  exhibits  an  unusual  degree 
of  enterprise  and  wealth.  The  Farmington  and  Hamp. 
^hire  canal  commence,]  at  this  place,  and  extends  to  New- 
Haven,  Conn.  87  miles.  Over  the  Connecticut  river, 
there  is  a  substantial  bridge,  1080  feet  long,  resting  on  6 
stone  piers. 

Mount  Holyoke,  in  the  vicinity  of  Northampton,  is 
much  frequented  by  tourists.  It  is  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  nearly  opposite  the  town.  The  lieight  of  the  moun- 
tain above  the  level  of  the  river  is  1070  feet.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  resort  to  this  place,  which  has  not  been  less 
than  from  2000  to  5000  annually,  two  buildings  have 
been  erected  on  its  summit  for  the  purpose  of  accommo- 
dating visitors  with  refreshments.  The  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive prospect  afforded  from  the  top  of  the  mountain, 


A 


HADLEY. 


293 


will  amply  compensate  the  labor  and  ditficuliry  of  the  as- 
cent.  The  view  embraces  eminences  160  miles  apart, 
witli  several  beautiful  villages  and  a  rich  and  fertile 
country  intervening,  and  is  said  to  be  unrivalled  in  the 
eastern  states. 

Hadley,  2  miles  from  Northampton,  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  the  state.  It  was  the  head  quarters  of  the  army 
employed  for  t'le  dcfeiice  of  the  towns  on  the  Connecticut 
river,  in  the  war  with  Philip  in  .IG75-6  ;  and  was,  for  £e 
long  time,  the  place  of  residence  of  the  two  regicides  or 
judges,  Whalley  and  GofTe,  in  the  time  of  Charles  II.  On 
the  town  being  attacked  by  the  Indians  during  this  war, 
a  stranger,  venerable  in  appearance,  and  differing  in  his 
apparel  from  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants,  suddenly  pre- 
sented himself  at  the  head  of  the  colonial  troops,  and  en- 
couraged them  by  his  advice  and  example  to  perseverance 
in  defending  the  place.  To  his  experience  in  military 
tactics  and  courage,  in  a  great  measure,  was  a  defeat  of 
the  Indians  attributable.  When  they  retreated,  the 
stranger  disappeared ;  and  in  those  times  of  superstition 
it  was  verily  believed  by  many  that  he  was  the  guardian 
angel  of  the  place.  But  he  was  no  other  than  Col.  Goffe, 
who  secinof  the  villafjc  in  danijcr,  left  his  concealment  to 
unite  with  its  inhabitants  in  a  vigorous  defence. 

In  connection  with  the  history  of  this  place,  the  follow- 
ing biogra])hical  sketch  of  Gofle,  Whaley  and  Dixwell 
will  prove  interesting  : 

On  the  restoration  of  the  English  monarch,  Charles  II. 
in  1660,  several  of  the  judges  who  sat  on  the  trial  of 
Charles  I.  were  seized,  condemned  and  executed.  Others, 
foreseeing  the  result,  escaped.    Whalley  and  GolFe,  two 


v.\m 


r  n  If! 


Q 


flu 


294 


HADLEY. 


^■?i:'    '\ 


«i; 


r'li 


of  the  number,  came  to  Boston ;  where,  for  a  time,  they 
received  the  hospitality  due  to  their  rank.  But  on  learn- 
inir  that  several  of  the  rericidcs  had  been  executed,  and 
that  Whallcy  and  GofTe  had  not  been  included  in  the  act 
of  pardon,  the  people  who  bad  harbored  them  began  to 
bo  alarmed  ;  and  the  two  judges  abruptly  deported  for 
-Connecticut.  Subsequently,  the  King's  proclamation 
was  received,  requiring  their  apprehension.  They,  how- 
ever,  eluded  the  vigilance  of  tlicir  pursuers,  by  secreting 
themselves  in  a  cave  and  other  secret  places  at  New- 
Haven,  where  they  continued  between  3  and  4  years,  un- 
til their  retreat  was  discovered  by  the  Indians.  Finding 
that  they  could  no  longer  remain  at  New-Haven  in  safety, 
and  that  a  vigilant  search  for  them  was  still  continued, 
they  resolved  to  remove  into  a  more  secluded  part  of  the 
country.  A  friend  had  succeeded  in  inducing  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Russell,  of  Hadlcy,  to  receive  them  ;  and  after  a  toil- 
some  journey  by  night,  they  reached  his  house  in  October, 
1664.  In  a  chamber  of  this  house,  (which  was  situate 
on  the  east  side,  and  near  the  centre  of  the  present  main 
street,)  having  a  secret  passage  to  the  cellar,  the}''  re. 
mained  undiscovered  for  15  or  16  years.  During  this 
period  GofFe  held  a  correspondence  with  his  wife  in  Eng- 
land, under  an  assumed  name  ;  and  in  a  letter  of  April, 
1679,  it  is  stated  that  Whalley  had  died  some  time  pre- 
vious,  at  Mr.  Russell's.  His  bones  were  discovered  not 
many  years  since  in  a  sort  of  tomb  adjoining  the  cellar 
wall  of  Mr.  Russell's  house. 

Not  long  after  GofTe  and  Whalley  arrived  at  Hadley, 
they  were  joined  by  Col.  .John  Dixwell,  another  of  tiie 
judges.     After  remaining  some  time,  he  went  to  New- 


BROOKFIELO. 


295 


;,  they 
learn- 
d,  and 
the  act 
gan  to 
led  for 
imation 
y,  how- 
jcreting 
t  New- 
:ars,  un- 
Finding 
ii  safety, 
ntinucd, 
rt  of  the 
;he  Rev. 
er  a  toil- 
Jctober, 
s  situate 
nt  main 
they  re- 
ring  this 
in  Eng- 
)f  April, 
Lime  pro- 
Icred  not 
lie  cellar 

Hadley, 
hr  of  the 
Ito  New- 


Haven,  assumed  the  name  of  Davids,  was  married,  liad 
several  children,  and  his  real  name  was  not  known  until 
his  death  in  1089.  He  was  buried  in  the  church-yard  at 
that  place  ;  wlicre  a  coarse  stone  still  marks  the  spot  of 
his  interment,  with  this  inscription  ;  "  J.  D.  Esq.  de- 
ceased, March  18,  in  the  S2d  year  of  his  age— 1688-9." 

After  the  death  of  Whalley,  Goffe  travelled  to  the 
south,  and  no  certain  information  relative  to  his  fate  has 
ever  been  obtained. 

From  Hadley  to  Belcheutown,  a  pleasant  village,  is 
10  miles,  and  thence  to 

Ware  Factory  Village,  is  9  miles  farther.  This 
place,  located  on  the  Ware  river,  has  attained  an  as- 
tonishing growth  within  6  or  8  years.  There  are  few 
places  in  the  country  exhibiting  so  barren  and  rugged  a 
soil  as  the  site  and  lands  adjacent  to  this  flourishing  little 
city  in  miniature.  As  you  approach  from  the  west  or 
cast,  it  bursts  upon  the  view  witli  its  long  range  of  manu- 
factories, its  neat  white  houses,  and  glittering  spires,  pro- 
ducing the  same  sensation  in  the  bosom,  as  the  prospect 
of  a  beautiful  garden  in  the  midst  of  a  desert.  It  con- 
tains several  public  buildings  which  would  be  an  orna- 
ment to  our  most  flourishing  inland  towns  of  more  ancient 
date. 

Brookfield,  8  miles  from  Ware,  is  a  handsome  town, 
though  very  little  improved  by  any  recent  additions  of 
buildings.  This  place  was  burnt  by  the  Indians  in  1675. 
On  the  first  alarm,  the  inhabitants,  in  all  about  70,  re- 
paired to  a  house  slightly  fortified  externally  with  logs, 
and  internally  lined  with  feather  beds,  to  check  the  force 

AA 


-?f 


*!«*'; 


296 


WORCESTER. 


I 


feS'i 


ii 


i 


:..  :ii; 


of  musketry.  This  spot  was  eoon  surrounded  by  the  en- 
emy,  and  a  constant  fire  poured  upon  it  in  all  directions. 
But  the  well  directed  shots  of  the  besieged  kept  the  In- 
dians at  a  considerable  distance.  Various  devices  were 
used  by  the  latter  for  burnin'^  the  building ;  but  their 
plans  were  thwarted  by  the  whites,  aided  by  a  plentiful 
shower  of  rain.  The  attack  continued  for  three  days ; 
when  the  appearance  of  a  body  of  troops  from  Lancaster 
induced  the  Indians  to  seek  their  own  safety  in  a  precipi- 
tate retreat.  All  the  buildings  in  the  vilage  except  the 
one  fortified,  were  destroyed.  Only  one  of  the  inhabit, 
ants,  however,  was  killed  ;  while  the  loss  of  the  Indians 
was  80. 

Leicester,  12  miles.  The  village  contains  an  acad- 
emy, 3  churches  and  about  80  dwellings.  The  principal 
employment  of  the  inhabitants  is  the  manufacture  of  cot- 
ton and  woollen  cards  ;  of  which  a  very  large  amount  is 
annually  made. 

Vv'oRCESTER,  (6  milcs,)  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
important  towns  in  the  state.  It  contains  from  four  to 
five  hundred  houses,  generally  well  bmlt,  a  bank,  a  c  urt 
house,  jail,  and  several  public  buildings.  A  newspaper 
which  was  commenced  by  Isaiah  Thomas  some  time  pre- 
vious to  the  revolutionary  war,  is  still  published  here,  and 
is  one  of  the  oldest  papers  in  the  Union.  Mr.  Thomas 
was  the  author  of  an  elaborate  history  of  the  art  of  print- 
ing, and  conthmed  to  reside  here  until  his  decease,  a  few 
years  since.  He  erected  in  the  village,  at  a  very  consid- 
erable expense,  a  handsome  building,  for  the  reception  of 
the  library  and  cabinet  of  the  American  Antiquarian  So- 
ciety, of  which  he  was  president.    The  library  consists 


€ 


•^' 


en- 

lons. 

In. 

were 

their 

itiful 

lays; 

•aster 

'ccipi- 

)t  the 

habit- 

idians 

acad- 
incipal 
of  cot- 
ount  is 

most 
four  to 
c  urt 
^spaper 
pre- 
|re,  and 
^homas 
print- 
a  few 
Iconsid- 
)tion  of 
lian  So- 
lonsists 


BOSTON  AND  WORCESTER  RAIL  ROAD. 


297 


of  about  6000  vohimes,  many  of  them  of  great  antiquity, 
and  the  cabinet  is  also  very  vaU7''ble. 

The  Blackstone  Canal  commences  at  this  place,  and 
extends  to  Providence,  R.  I.  Length,  45  miles — expense 
rising  of  ^500,000. 

A  rail  road  also  extends  from  this  place  to  Norwich, 
Conn,  on  the  Thames  river,  noticed  hereafter, — length 
59  miles. 

The  Boston  and  Worcester  Hail  Road,  after  leaving 
Worcester,  crosses  the  Blackstone  river,  through  the  val- 
ley of  which  it  passes  for  some  distance,  until  striking  a 
ridge  of  slate  rock,  the  cut  through  which  is  37  feet  deep 
for  a  distance  of  1 500  feet ;  thence  descending  at  the  rate 
of  30  feet  to  the  mile  over  a  rough  country,  it  enters  the 
valley  of  Long  Pond,  which  is  passed  on  a  high  embank- 
ment, until  reaching  Cutler's  Peak  ;  whence  the  valley 
of  Elizabeth  river  is  pursued  to  the  town  of  Westborough ; 
where,  passing  the  Westborough  Swamp,  the  head  of  the 
Concord  river,  the  valley  of  the  latter  stream  is  taken 
until  reaching  the  direction  of  Natic  Pond,  the  south  end 
of  which  is  doubled  by  a  strong  curve.  Ascending  at  the 
rate  of  30  feet  to  the  mile,  the  line  ?oon  enters  Natic, 
whicli  it  leaves  by  a  rock  excavation  of  20  feet,  and  pas. 
ses  the  south  end  of  Morse's  Pond  on  p.n  embankment 
47  feet  high  and  700  feet  long.  Following  for  some  dis- 
tance a  parallel  line  with  the  central  turnpike,  the  road 
crosses  the  Worcester  turnpike  and  reaches  a  pond  half  a 
mile  loiig,  the  waters  of  which  were  originally  7  feet 
above  the  grade  line.  From  this  point  there  is  an  exca- 
vation through  granite  31  feet  deep  and  500  feet  long. 
Passing  the  town  of  Necdham,  there  is  a  succession  of 


-i  ^i 


Ai 


f- 


♦  ' 


'ii 


H] 


y'i  » 


1' 
'i 


*  '<{ 


•^  t!'  J;k 


'%t 


1; 
'in  I 


m 


,'  :m 


ll 


V      -tr 


*  (. 


298 


FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 


i'ki\i 


heavy  embankments  and  excavations,  until  reaching 
Charles  river,  which  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  120  feet  long, 
composed  of  a  single  span.  Proceeding  down  the  valley 
of  the  river,  the  line  passes  Newtown  in  going  two  miles, 
and  reaches  Boston  in  going  8  miles  farther — terminating 
not  far  from  the  foot  of  the  common. 

Worcester  is  456  feet  above  Boston,  but  the  greatest 
descent  in  any  one  place  is  30  feet  to  the  mile.  The  en- 
tire  length  of  the  road  is  43  1-4  miles,  and  the  time  era- 
ployed  in  passing  from  one  place  to  the  other  by  steam,  ia 
from  2  1-2  to  3  hours. 

Boston.     {See  subsequent  pages.) 

FROM    ALBANY    TO    BOSTON, 

Via  Springfield^  Mass. — 177  miles. 

INTERMEDIATE  DISTANCES. 

Miles.  Miles. 


By  stage. 

Greenbush, 1 

Nassau, II  12 

Canaan, 11  33 

Stockbridge, 10  43 

Lee, - 4  47 

Becket, 10  .57 

Westfield, 20  77 

Springfield, 13  80 


By  rail  road. 

Wilbraham, 7  87 

Palmer, 8  95 

Warren, 11  105 

W.  Brookficld,...  3  109 

S.  Brookfield,....  3  112 

Charlton, 9  121 

S.Leicester, 4  12j 

Worcester, 9  134 

Boston, 43  177 


Canaan,  N.  Y.  33  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  small  vil- 
lage, containing  a  shaker  settlement. 

West  Stockbriduk,  Mass.  lO  miles  farther,  is  a  pleas- 
ant village  on  the  banks  of  the  Housatonic  river,  vvhicli  af- 
fords facilities  for  several  manufacturing  establishments; 
among  which  are  a  number  for  the  dressing  of  mavble,  of 
which  the  town  contains  an  abundant  supply.     The  vil- 


4.     ■' 


Lching 
t  long, 
valley 
I  miles, 
inating 

rreatest 
rhe  en- 
ime  om- 
iteam,  is 


Miles. 


7 

8" 

B 

95 

11 

108 

3 

109 

3 

112 

9 

1-21 

4 

125 

9 

134 

43 

177 

tmall  vil- 


Q. 


a  plea 

Iwhicli  af- 

shmcnts; 

lavble,  of 

The  vil- 


SPRINGFIELD. 


299 


lage  is  the  terr  .inating  point  of  the  Hudson  and  Berk- 
shire rail  road,  noticed  at  p.  115.  A  rail  road  is  also  in 
progress  from  Springfield  to  the  state  line  near  this  place, 
and  one  from  Bridgeport,  Conn,  on  the  Long  Island 
Sound,  to  connect  with  the  Hudson  and  Berkshire  road, 
already  noticed. 

The  remaining  part  of  tlic  stage  route  is  through  an 
agricultural  district,  until  reaching 

West  Springfikld,  a  pleasant  village  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  over  which  a  bridge  is 
constructed,  connecting  the  place  with 

Springfield,  on  tlie  opposite  side.  This  is  a  large, 
flourishing  and  handsome  village.  Tlie  houses  are  prin- 
cipally located  at  the  foot  of  a  hill ;  on  the  west  side  of 
which  are  several  elegant  residences,  and  on  the  summit 
a  U.  S.  arsenal.  The  village  contains  a  court  house,  jail, 
bank,  five  churches,  and  several  manufactories. 

The  buildings  composing  the  arsenal  on  the  heights, 
occupy  a  large  square,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  higli  wall. 
They  are  mostly  built  of  brick  and  present  a  magnificent 
appearance.  About  16,000  muskets  are  manufactured 
here  annually.  The  water  works  employed  for  the  pur- 
pose are  on  Mill  river,  a  mile  south  of  the  arsenal. 

Chicapee,  an  important  manufacturing  village,  con- 
taining 1400  inhabitants,  is  within  the  precincts  of  the 
town. 

Springfield  became  the  theatre  of  savage  barbarity  dur- 
ing Philip's  war  in  1675.  The  towns  still  further  up  the 
river  had,  for  some  time  previous,  suffered  severely  from 
repeated  Indian  incursions.    But  the  Springfield  tribe  had 

thus  far  remained  quiet ;  and  it  was  not  till  the  month  of 

aa2 


.f*- 


4] 


V 


- 1 


.*^ 


^^.^ 


300 


SPRINGFIELD. 


\A  .%Vi\ 


October  of  this  year,  that  Philip  could  succeed  by  his  ar- 
tifices to  enlist  them  in  his  favor.  On  the  night  of  the 
4lh,  it  was  ascertained  by  means  of  a  friendly  Indian, 
that  300  of  the  tribe  had  suddenly  and  secretly  assembled 
at  a  fort  on  Long  Hill,  about  a  mile  below  the  villaj[,^c. 
This  intellin^cnce  j)roduced  much  consternation  among 
the  inhabitants ;  and  they  immediately  repaired  to  their 
fortified  houses.  No  dinlurbance,  however,  occurrinj,^  in 
the  night,  hopes  were  entertained  that  hostilities  were 
not  intended  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Lieut.  Cooper, 
the  commandant  of  the  place,  and  another,  accordingly 
resolved  on  repairing  to  the  fort,  for  the  purpose  oi  uis- 
sipating  the  fears  that  still  existed  among  the  inhabitants. 
Having  reached  the  small  stream  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
village.  Cooper  and  his  companions  were  shot  by  Indians 
who  were  concealed  in  the  woods.  This  seemed  to  be  a 
signal  for  attack  ;  as  the  whole  body  immediately  rushed 
into  the  town  with  a  horrid  yell,  and  set  fire  to  the  unfor- 
tified  dwellings  and  barns.  The  whole  were  soon  enve- 
loped in  flames  and  consumed.  During  this  period,  a 
fire  was  kept  up  from  the  fortified  houses  upon  the  In- 
dians, and  several  killed  ;  but  it  was  not  till  they  had  dc 
stroyed  32  dwellings  and  nearly  as  many  barns,  and 
plundered  every  thing  within  their  reach,  that  they  with- 
drew. A  brick  house  standing  at  tiic  time  of  this  catas- 
trophe, is  still  in  tolerable  preservation. 

During  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  in  1786,  the  armory  at, 
this  place  was  attacked  by  him ;  but  he  was  repulsed 
with  the  loss  of  a  few  men,  and  his  followers  subsequently 
dispersed. 


If?,l 


?^ 


t 


t 


^' 


SARATOUA  SPRINGS  TO  UOSTON. 


301 


FVom  Sprinjrficld,  a  rail  road  ia  taken  to  Worcester,  54 
miles  distant,  passinjr  through  the  towns  noticed  at  p.  298. 

Worcester,  and  tiic  rail  road  to  Boston  were  noticed 
at  pp.  296  to  298. 

FROai   SARATOGA    SPUINGS  TO  BOSTON. 

186  miles.     Infcnncdiate  distaures  as  follow  : 


Scliuylerville,, 


Miles. 

12 

Union  Village,. .. .     5     ]7 

Cambridge, 8     25 

Arlington, 15     40 

Manchester, 8     48 

Landgrove, 14     62 

Chester, 16     78 

Bellows  Falls,....   14     92 

Walpole, 4     96 

Keenc, 14  110 

Marlborough, 5  115 


3lilc8. 

.Teffrev 5  120 

New 'Ipswich, 10  130 

Townscnd, 12  142 

Peppcrel, 6  148 

Groton,    3  151 

Littleton, 8  159 

Acton 3  162 

Concord, 7  1 69 

Lexington, 7  176 

Cambridge, 7  1 83 

JJoston 3  186 


A  stage  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morning  (Sun- 
days excepted)  a.t  5  o'clock,  reaching  Boston  the  third 
day  at  noon. 

ScHiJYLERViLLK,  12  miles.  {Sre  p.  hil.)  Passing  across 
the  vale  where  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  tor)k  place  to 
the  river,  (on  the  bank  of  which  in  a  field  adjoining  the 
road  on  the  north,  are  seen  the  remains  of  an  intrcnch- 
mout,)  the  stage  crosses  it  in  a  horse  boat. 

Union  Village,  5  miles.  The  Battcnkill  river  passes 
tlirouffh  the  viltarre,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  several 
mills  and  factories.  There  are  about  200  houses  in  the 
place,  and  there  is  an  exhibition  of  considerable  enterprise. 

Cambridge  and  Arlington  arc  good  agricultural  town- 
iships.     In  the  latter  place,   the  route,  for  a  considerable 


It  1 


'iJ 


^  ttJ 


ao'i 


MANCllKSTF.Il — rUKSTKR — BFLLOWS   FALLS. 


distance,  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Battcnkill,  near  which  are 
several  valuable  and  extensive  (juarries  of  white  marbk'. 

Manciikstkr,  8  miles  fiv-ni  Arlinfrton,  is  a  neat  villajro, 
located  near  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains,  wliicli  are 
seen  stretehinir  to  the  south  and  nortli  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
extend.  Leaving  the  villajje,  the  stacjc  soon  commences 
ascendinjr  the  great  natural  barrier  which  separates  the 
eastern  and  western  sections  of  Vermont.  No  exertions 
have  been  spared  to  improve  the  road ;  and  it  may  be 
considered  by  far  the  best  of  any  which  crosses  the 
mo'mtain.  T'.^:  ascent,  wliich  is  not  precipitous,  con- 
tinues,  with  occasional  descents,  for  10  or  \2  miles  be- 
fore the  summ't  is  reached.  During  tlic  first  G  miles,  a 
most  extensive  and  variegated  prosj^cct  at  the  west  is  en- 
joyed;  and  after  attaining  the  greatest  elevation,  this  is 
suddenly  exchanged  for  a  prospect  nearly  co-extensive  at 
the  cart. 

Chester,  30  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  pleasant  vil- 
lage, situated  on  a  handsome  plain,  and  contains  2  church- 
es, an  excellent  academy,  and  about  60  dwellings  and 
stores. 

Bellows  Falls,  14  miles,  lies  on  the  western  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  river.  The  village  is  flourishing,  con- 
tains  some  very  pleasant  houses,  a  number  of  manufac- 
turing establisiiments,  and  a  beautiful  church,  which 
stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  seen  for  some  miles  distant. 

A  canal,  having  9  locks  and  affording  water  for  a  num- 
ber of  mills,  has  been  constructed  around  the  falls.  It  is 
about  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  whole  descent  of  the 
river  for  this  distance  is  fifty  feet,  and  assumes  the  appear- 


WALPOI.H. 


303 


>ank  of 
',  con- 
nufac- 
which 
istanl. 
num- 
It  is 
of  the 
ppear- 


ance  of  rapida  rather  than  a  cataract.  Over  the  greatest 
descent,  where  the  water  is  compressed  by  ledges  of 
rocks  to  a  very  narrow  8j)ace,  a  hand^•ome  toll  bridge  \n 
erected,  filty  feut  in  height,  from  wliicli  the  water  is  » 
seen  rushing  through  tlie  j>ass  with  great  rapidity,  and 
dashing  upon  tlie  rocks  in  the  wildest  disorder — present- 
ing a  scene  truly  sublime  and  interesting. 

A  short  distance  below  the  falls  are  two  rocks  contain, 
ing  specimens  of  Indian  workniansliip.  On  one  of  the 
rocks  arc  the  indistinct  tracer  of  a  number  of  human  fa- 
ces, represented  by  marks  in  the  stone,  and  probably  in- 
tended as  a  memorial  of  their  deceased  friends  or  chief- 
tains. That  this  place  was  once  the  haunt  of  our  savage 
predecessors,  is  evident  from  the  arrow  points  and  bits  of 
tiicir  earthen  pots  and  fragments  of  other  utensils  which 
may  be  found  in  a  short  walk  over  the  adjacent  fields.* 

On  the  New-Hampshire  side  is  a  chain  of  lofty  moun- 
tains, which  leave  but  a  narrow  passage  between  their 
base  and  the  river.  Around  one  of  these  impending  bar- 
riers  the  road  winds  its  course  to  the  pleasant  village  of 

Walpole,  which  contains  about  100  houses,  including 
some  very  handsome  mansions.  This  place  was  the  scene 
of  many  savage  incursions  during  the  French  war.  It 
was  once  in  the  entire  possession  of  the  Indians,  and  re- 
taken from  them  by  Col.  Bellows,  who  made  the   first 

*  From  Bellows  Falls,  stages  can  be  taken  every  day 
for  Concord,  N.  H.  and  for  Hartford,  Conn.  On  the  lat- 
ter route,  the  course  is  generally  near  the  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  and  through  a  most  delightful  country, 
interspersed  with  several  elegant  villages  and  country 
seats. 


.4 


•'.11 


%*  k 


\7M 


!■        U'l 


'Pill 


lift' 

4i 


i  c'- 


304 


KEEHE—OROTON— CONCORD — LEXINGTON. 


% 


Bcttlement  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  scenery  in 
this  vicinity  is  remarkably  striking  and  romantic.  Four- 
teen miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

Keene.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in 
New-England.  It  contahis  about  300  dwellings,  a 
bank,  a  court  house  and  jail,  3  churches,  and  a  popula. 
tion  of  about  3000.  For  a  distance  of  40  miles  from  this 
place,  no  village  of  importance  intervenes,  though  many 
handsome  dwellin<rs  and  rich  farms  are  discovered  on  the 
route. 

Groton,  41  miles  from  Keene,  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  about  100  houses  and  an  academy ;  eighteen 
miles  from  which  is  the  town  of 

Concord,  rendered  memorable  as  the  place  where  the 
first  efficient  opposition  was  made  to  the  British  troops, 
in  1775.  It  is  a  large  town,  and  contains  many  hand, 
some  dwellings.     Seven  miles  farther  is  the  town  of 

Lexington,  containing  a  few  plain  houses  ;  but  cele. 
brated  in  history  as  the  spot  where  the  first  American 
blood  was  shed  in  tiic  strug  ^^^  for  independence.  This 
occurred  on  the  19th  April,  1775.  A  quantity  of  military 
stores  had  been  collected  at  Concord,  which  the  Britisij 
General  Gage  proposed  to  destroy.  Though  secret  in  his 
operations,  and  though  precaution  had  been  taken  the 
evening  previous  to  scour  the  roads  and  secure  such  citi- 
zens as  the  British  officers  fell  in  with,  yet  the  plan  wa? 
discovered  by  Doct.  Warren,  of  Boston,  who  sent  out 
messengers  to  alarm  the  inhabitants  and  prepare  them  for 
resistance.     On  the  arrival  the  next  morninff  at  Lexinir- 


ion  of 

that  th 

arms. 

the  "r 

fired,  u 

continu 

killed  a 

The* 

which  t( 

while  tl 

number 

with  ord 

one  of  tl 

were  fire 

ed  and  a 

fiturc  of 

ing  conti 

ccived  re 

treat  to  ] 

the  prote 

The   1( 

wounded 

vincialistf 

TJie  bl( 

portant  c\ 

Breed's  oi 

^'hich  is  r 

*  A  har 
^his  action 
'■emains  of 


^ 


LEXINOTON. 


3n5 


icry  m 
Four- 


iges  in 
ngs,  a 
popula- 
om  thia 
h  many 
\  on  the 

village, 
eighteen 

vhcrv.  the 
sh  troops, 
ly  hand, 
n  of 


ton  of  the  British  troops,  8  or  900  Btronpf,  it  was  found 
that  the  militia  of  the  town,  to  the  nmnbcr  of  70,  wcro  iii 
arms.  Major  Pitcairn,  who  led  the  British  van,  ordered 
the  "  rebels"  to  disperse.  Some  scatterinnr  jrijns  were 
fired,  which  were  followed  by  a  j:jcncral  discharjro,  and 
continued  till  the  militia  disappeared.  Eight  men  were 
killed  and  several  wounded.* 

The  detachment  then  proceeded  to  Concord,  a  part  of 
which  took  possession  of  two  bridges  beyond  the  town, 
while  the  remainder  destroyed  the  military  stores.  A 
number  of  militia,  who  had  collected  in  the  vicinity,  but 
with  orders  not  to  give  the  first  fire,  attempted  to  pass 
one  of  the  bridges  in  the  character  of  travellers.  They 
were  fired  on,  and  two  men  killed.  The  fire  was  return- 
ed and  a  skirmish  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the  discom- 
fiture of  the  regulars,  and  a  precipitate  retreat.  Skirmish- 
ing continued  during  the  day,  and  though  the  British  re- 
ceived reinforcements,  they  were  harrassed  in  their  re- 
treat  to  Bunker's  Hill,  where  they  remained  secure  under 
the  protection  of  their  ships  of  war. 

The  loss  of  the  British,  during  this  day,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  prisoners,  was  273 ;  while  that  of  the  pro- 
vincialists  did  not  exceed  90. 

The  blow  thus  struck  was  the  precursor  of  more  im- 
portant cventSj  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  battle  of 
Breed's  or  (as  it  is  generally  denominated)  Bunker's  Hill ; 
which  is  noticed  in  subsequent  pages. 


*  A  handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where 
this  action  was  fought,  beneath  which  are  interred  the 
remains  of  thn  Americana  who  were  slain. 


306 


CAMBRtDGK* 


QUn 


Cambridge  is  7  miles  from  Lexin^rton.  It  is  a  large 
and  handsome  town,  but  derives  its  importance  from  Har- 
vard  UniverHity,  which  is  located  hore,  and  is  one  of  the 
oldest  and  most  celebrated  literary  institutions  in  the 
United  States.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  Rev.  John 
Harvard,  who  died  in  1638,  leaving  to  the  institution  a 
legacy  of  779Z.  17s.  2d.  sterling.  The  edifices  belonging 
to  the  University  are  Harvard,  Massachusetts,  Hollis, 
Stoughton,  Holworthy  and  University  Halls,  Holden 
Chapel,  a  stone  building  and  3  College  houses,  besides 
that  for  the  President-  These  buildincrs  are  all  situated 
in  a  spacious  square,  and  are  handsomely  shaded  with  a 
variety  of  trees.  The  amount  of  property  belonging  to 
the  institution,  it  is  said,  falls  little  short  of  «^600,000.  It 
contains  an  extensive  philosophical  apparatus,  and  a  libra- 
ry  of  about  25,000  volumes.  Cambridge  contains  three 
handsome  villages,  a  court  house,  jail,  state  arsenal,  sev- 
eral houses  for  public  worship,  and  about  5000  inhabitants. 

Two  miles  from  Cambridge  is  the  city  of  Boston.  The 
two  places  are  connected  by  a  bridge  3846  feet  long  and 
40  wide,  with  a  causeway  of  3344  feet.  The  cost  of  tlie 
whole  was  $76,700.  [For  a  description  of  Boston,  see 
subsequent  pages.]  a 


«ri 


14' 


f- 


WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTON. 


307 


FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTON — 178  mileS. 

A  stage  leaves  Whitehall  daily,  (Sundays  excepted,) 
passing  through  the  villages  of  Castleton  and  Rutland, 
connecting  at  Chester  with  the  route  from  Saratoga 
Springs,  and  reaches  Boston  the  third  day. 

Fairiiaven,  9  miles  from  Whitehall,  contains  several 
mills  and  manufactories  of  iron,  and  about  50  houses. 

Castleton,  5  miles  farther,  is  a  handsome  village  of 
about  120  houses,  and  contains  a  medical  college  and 
classical  seminary,  the  latter  located  on  an  eminence 
south  of  the  village,  and  commanding  an  extensive  view 
of  a  rich  and  beautiful  country.  It  is  160  feet  in  length 
and  40  in  breadth,  with  projections  in  the  centre  and  ends 
of  46  and  55  feet,  and  is  3  stories  high,  exclusive  of  a 
basement.  To  the  building  is  attached  a  play  ground  of 
about  6  acres,  a  part  of  which  is  to  be  devoted  to  a  gar- 
den. The  course  of  instruction  in  this  institution,  which 
is  liberally  patronized,  corresponds  with  that  of  the  most 
favored  seminaries  of  learning  in  the  country. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  village,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Hubbardlon  with  the  main  road,  are  slight  remains 
of  a  fort  and  breast  work,  which  were  occupied  during 
the  revolutionary  war ;  two  miles  north  of  which  the 
Hubbardton  road  passes  over  the  ground  where  a  severe 
action  was  fought  between  a  detachment  of  Burgoyne's 
army  and  a  body  of  American  troops.  The  latter  com- 
posed the  rear  guard  of  the  Americans  which  evacuated 
Ticonderoga  in  July,  1777,  and  were  commanded  by  Col. 
Warner.  They  were  about  1000  strong,  and  were  over- 
taken by  a  force  of  nearly  the  same  number  under  Gen. 


*•!. 


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308 


RUTLAND — CHESTER. 


Frazer.  A  long,  severe  and  obstinate  conflict  ensued ; 
when  the  arrival  of  Gen.  Reidsell,  with  his  division  of 
Germans,  compelled  the  Americans  to  give  way  in  all  di- 
rections. The  British  loss  was  stated  by  Gen.  Burgoyne 
at  35  killed  and  144  wounded ;  and  the  American  loss 
was  estimated  by  Gen.  St.  C'air  at  50  killed  and  wound- 
ed. It  is  generally  supposed  that  the  loss  of  both  armies 
was  much  greater. 

The  Americans  retreated  to  the  south,  and  took  part 
in  the  Bennington  battle  on  the  16th  of  August,  and 
in  the  capture  of  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga  in  October  fol- 
lowing. 

Rutland,  10  miles  from  Castlcton,  is  the  capital  of 
Rutland  county.  It  is  situated  3  miles  west  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  in  view  of  Killington  Peake,  and  for  beauty 
of  local  situation  is  not  surpassed  by  any  village  in  the 
northern  states.  It  contains  about  200  houses,  three 
churches,  a  bank,  court  house  and  jail. 

Ton  miles  from  Rutland,  in  the  town  of  Shrewsbury, 
the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains,  which 
are  crossed  in  travelling  12  miles  farther.  No  part  of  the 
passage  is  precipitous ;  though  the  road  is  less  pleasant 
than  that  leading  from  Manchester.     {See  p.  302.) 

Chester  is  40  miles  from  Rutland,  whence  the  route 
to  Boston  is  the  same  as  that  noticed  at  page  302. 


Ji, 


^' 


BURLINGTON   TO    BOSTON. 


309 


FROM    BURLINGTON    TO    BOSTON, 

{through  Windsor,  Vt.) 

From  Burlington,  Vt.  where  the  Champlain  steam- 
boats touch  in  the  passage  up  and  down  the  lake,  stages 
depart  for  Boston  daily,  passing  through  Montpelier  and 
Windsor,  Vt.,  Claremont  and  Amherst,  N.  H.,  Billcrica 
and  Medford,  Mass.,  and  reach  Boston  on  the  third  day. 
Distance  20G  miles — fare  ^8. 
are  as  follow  : 


The  intervening  distances 


Miles. 

Williston, 8 

Richmond, 9  17 

Bolton,. 2  19 

Waterbury, 8  27 

Moretown, 4  31 

Montpelier, 7  38 

Williamstown,. . ..  10  48 

Brookfield,.. ......  8  56 

Randolph, 12  6S 

Royalton, 3  71 

Barnard, 6  77 

Woodstock, 8  85 

Windsor, 14  99 


Miles. 

Lempster, 12  120 

Washington, 7  127 

Hillsborough, 9  136 

Francistown, 9  145 

Mount  Vernon,...  9  154 

Amherst, 6  160 

Merrimack, 3  163 

Dunstable, 7  170 

Tyngsboroiigh,.. ..  6  176 

Chelmsford, 7  183 

Billerica, 4  187 

Woburn, 9  196 

Boston, 10  206 


Claremont, 9  103  | 

Burlington.     {See  p.  284.) 

Montpelier  is  situated  on  the  Onion  river,  a  littlo 
north  of  the  centre  of  the  state,  38  miles  from  Burling- 
ton. It  is  the  scat  of  government,  and  has  a  new  and 
elegant  state  house,  a  court  house,  jail  and  3  houses  of 
public  worship,  besides  a  number  of  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments.    It  contains  about  2000  inhabitants. 

With  the  exception  of  a  narrow  vale,  through  which 
the  river  passes,  the  village  is  purrounded  by  lofty  hills 


(»       i 


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IP 


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310     RANDOLPH — ROYALTON — WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR. 

and  mountains,  which  give  it  the  appearance  of  seclusion 
from  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  road  for  several  miles 
previous  to  reaching  the  village,  and  after  leaving  it,  is  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  mountain  scenery  is  unusu- 
ally  romantic. 

In  passing  from  Montpelier  to  Randolph,  the  route  is 
on  what  is  termed  the  gulf  road.  This  gulf  is  6  miles  in 
extent,  between  lofty  mountains,  with  barely  a  sufficient 
space  for  a  road  and  the  White  river,  a  beautifully  trans- 
parent  stream,  exhibiting,  in  most  mstances,  a  bottom  of 
white  gravel. 

Randolph,  30  miles  from  Montpelier,  is  on  a  lofty  ridge 
of  land  affording  some  of  the  finest  farms  in  the  state. 
The  village  is  small,  but  much  admired  for  its  location 
and  neatness. 

Royalton,  3  miles.    A  pleasant  village. 

Woodstock,  14  miles,  the  capital  of  Windsor  county, 
is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  The  principal  village 
called  Woodstock  Green,  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Queechy 
river,  and  contains  a  bank,  court  house,  jail,  five  churches, 
a  medical  institution  and  a  woollen  factory. 

Windsor,  14  miles,  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river.  The  houses  exhibit  a  very 
neat  and  handsome  appearance,  and  stand  in  a  fertile 
and  richly  cultivated  tract  of  country.  It  contains  3 
churches,  a  court  house  and  the  Vermont  Penitentiary. 
The  bridge  built  across  the  Connecticut  at  this  place,  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  on  the  river.  Ascutney,  a  mountain 
in  the  southwest  part  of  the  town,  is  1732  feet  h.  height, 
and  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  those  who  take  delight 


BURLINGTON    TO    HOSTO.N'. 


311 


west 
a  very 
fertile 
Lains  3 


in  the  "ich  and  diversified  prospects  afforded  from  moun- 
tain summits. 

At  Windsor  the  route  crosses  the  Connecticut  river 
into  New.Hampf;hire,  and  proceeds  througli  a  handsome 
country,  occasionally  interspersed  with  a  pleasant  village, 
to  Boston. 

FROM    BURLINGTON   TO    BOSTON, 

{By  way  of  the  White  Mountahtfi  and  Concord,  New- 
,   Hampshire — 275  miles.* 

The  intermediate  distances  on  this  route  arc  as  follow : 


By  stage. 

Montpclicr, 

Littleton,  N.  H... 

E.  A.  Crawfora  R.. 

Notch  of  the  White 

Mountains,  .... 

Notch  House, 

Crawford's  Farm,. 
Bartlett, 

Conway, 

Six  Mile  Pond,.. .. 
Centre  Harbor,.. . . 
Guildford. 


Miles. 


if, 


38 


40     78 
18    96 


5 
o 

6 
7 
10 
11 
24 
13 


101 
103 
101) 
116 
126 
137 
161 
174 


Miles. 

Union  Bridge, 7  181 

Winnepiseogec 

Bridge, 4  185 

Concord, 17  202 

Hookset, >!  210 

Amoskeag, 7  217 

Piscataqna, 2  219 

Merrimack, 10  229 

By  rail  road. 

Nashua, 6  235 

Tyngsborough,.. ..     8  243 

Lowell, 7  250 

Boston, 25  275 


*  Strangers  designing  to  proceed  directly  to  Boston 
from  Burlington,  via  Concord,  N.  H.  witliout  visiting  the 
White  Mountains,  continue  on  the  route  from  Montpclicr 
to  Randolph,  as  noticed  at  p.  309,  and  thence  to  Han- 
over, 25  miles,  and  to  Concord  55  miles  farther.  (The 
route  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  at  p,  322.) 
Hanover  is  located  ou  a  handsome  plain,  half  i  mile  from 
the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  the  buildings  of  Dart- 
mouth  college  and  about  100  houses.  The  college  de- 
rives its  name  from  William,  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  one  of 
its  principal  benefactors.     It  v/as  founded  in  1769,  by  the 

bb2 


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312 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


A  sUge  ".an  be  taken  at  Burlington  daily  for  Montpe- 
lier,  Vt.,  distant  38  miles,  where  it  is  recommended  to 
travellers  to  proceed  to  Littleton,  N.  H.  40  miles  east  of 
Montpelier,  whence  a  stage  passes  three  times  a  week 
through  the  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains  to  Conway  ; 
and  thence  to  Portland,  (Maine,)  three  times  a  week. 
From  Littleton  to  Ethan  A.  Crawford's  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  18  miles,  about  half  the  distance  is  through  a 
cultivated  country  ;  but  the  remaining  part  is  through  an 
extensive,  and,  but  for  the  road,  an  impenetrable  forest. 

The  first  view  of  the  White  Mountains,  as  distinguish. 
ed  from  the  multitude  of  peaks  and  summits  which  meet 
the  eye  in  every  direction,  is  obtained  a  short  distance 
from  Littleton  ;  but  Mount  Washington  is  not  seen  till 
arriving  near  Crawford's.  The  first  view  of  these  moun- 
tains is  magnificent,  and  as  they  are  approached,  they  be- 
come  more  and  more  so,  until  the  bare  bleak  summit  of 
Mount  Washington,  rising  far  above  the  immense  piles 
which  surround  it,  strike  the  traveller  with  awe  and  as- 
tonishment.  But  the  emotions  which  one  receives  from 
the  grand  and  majestic  scenery  which  surrounds  him 
here,  are  utterly  beyond  the  power  of  description.  There 
is  no  single  object  upon  which  the  eye  rests  and  which 
the  mind  may  grasp  ;  but  the  vast  and  multiplied  features 
of  the  landscape  actually  bewilder  while  they  delight. 

These  mv->untains  are  the  loftiest  in  North  America  east 


late  Doct.  Elcazcr  Wheelock,  Phd  is  in  a  prosperous  con- 
dition. A  medical  institution  is  connected  with  the  col- 
lege, and  is  accommodated  with  a  brick  edifice,  contain- 
ing  besides  rooms  for  students,"a  laboratory,  anatomical 
museum,  mineralogical  cabinet,  library  and'lcctdre  rooms. 


<4. 


WIIITK  MOUNTAINS. 


313 


of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  their  heights  above  the 
Connecticut  river  have  been  estimated  as  follows  :  Wasli- 
ington,  5350  ft. ;  .Jefferson,  5261;  Adams,  5383;  Madi- 
son,  5039  ;  Monroe,  4932  ;  Quincy,  4470.  From  the 
summit  of  Mount  Washington,  the  Atlantic  ocean  is  seen 
at  Portland,  65  miles  S.  E.;  the  Katahdin  Mountains  to 
the  N.  E.  near  the  sources  of  the  Penobscot  river;  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  the  west ;  Mount  Mo- 
nadnock,  120  miles  to  the  S.  W. ;  and  numerous  lakes, 
rivers,  &c.  within  a  less  circumference.  The  iVo/c//  or 
Gap  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains,  and  is  a  deep 
and  narrow  defile,  in  one  place  only  22  feet  wide.  A  road 
passes  through,  which  crosses  the  river  Saco ;  into  which 
several  tributary  streams  enter  from  the  mountain  heights, 
forming  many  beautiful  cascades.  Lafayette  Mountain 
is  situated  in  the  northeast  part  of  the  township  of  Fran- 
conia,  nearly  equidistant  from  Mount  Washington  at  the 
northeast,  and  Moose  Hillock  at  the  southwest,  being 
about  20  miles  from  each ;  and  it  is  obviously  more  ele- 
vated than  any  other  summit  in  sight  except  the  White 
Mountains. 

At  the  Fmnconia  Notch,  near  the  road  leading  from 
Franconia  to  Plymouth,  and  about  3  miles  south  of  Mount 
Lafayette,  a  foot  path  has  been  cleared  out  from  the  road 
to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The  point  where  the  path 
commences  is  6  miles  from  the  Franconia  iron  works,  and 
the  length  of  it  from  the  road  to  the  summit  is  3  miles ; 
and  throughout  this  distance  it  is  almost  uniformly  steep. 
The  ascent  for  the  distance  of  about  2  miles  is  through  a 
tiiiek  forest  of  hemlock,  spruce,  &c.  Higher  up,  the 
mountain  is  encompassed  with  a  zone,  about  half  a  mile 


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314 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


in  width,  covered  with  stinted  trees,  chiefly  hemlock  and 
spruce.  Above  the  upper  edjre  of  this  zone,  which  is 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  top,  trees  and  yhrubs  disappear. 
The  summit  is  composed  cliicfly  of  bare  rocks,  partly  in 
large  masses,  and  partly  broken  into  small  pieces. 

The  view  from  the  top  is  exceedingly  picturesque  and 
magnificent.  Although  it  is  not  so  extensive  as  that  from 
the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  yet  owing  to  tho 
more  advantageous  situation  of  Lafayette,  being  more 
central  as  it  respects  tliis  mountainous  region,  it  is  not  in. 
forior  to  cither  in  beauty  or  grandeur.  The  view  to  the 
northeast,  cast,  south  and  southwest,  is  one  grand  pano- 
rama  of  mountain  scenery,  presenting  more  than  50  sum- 
mits, which  when  viewed  from  this  elevation  do  not  ap- 
pear to  differ  greatly  in  height.  Some  of  these  moun- 
tains arc  covered  with  verdure  to  the  top,  while  the  sum- 
mits of  others  are  composed  of  naked  rocks  ;  and  down 
the  sides  of  many  of  them  may  be  seen  dides  or  avalanches 
of  earth,  rocks  and  trees,  more  or  less  extensive,  which 
serve  to  diversify  the  scene.  The  only  appearance  of 
cultivation  in  this  whole  compass  is  confined  to  a  few 
farms  seen  in  a  direction  west  of  south,  on  the  road  to 
Plymouth,  extending  along  the  Pemigewasset  brancli  of 
the  Merrimack.  To  the  west  is  seen  the  territory  wa- 
tered by  the  Connecticut  and  the  Ammonoosuek. 

At  a  place  in  the  road  through  the  Franconia  Notch 
where  the  path  up  the  mountain  commences,  is  exhibited 
to  the  view  of  the  traveller,  on  the  mountam  opposite  to 
Lafayette,  the  Profile  or  the  Old  Man  of  the  Mouiiiain,^ 
singular  lufius  natural,  and  a  remarkable  curiosity.  It  is 
situated  on  the  brow  of  the  peak  or  precipice,  which  ri?os 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


315 


almost  perpendicularly  from  the  surface  of  a  small  lake, 
directly  in  front  to  the  heijrht  (as  estimated)  of  from  600 
to  1000  feet.     Tlie   front  of  this  precipice  is  formed  of 
solid  rock,  but  as  vievcd  from  the  point  where  the  profile 
is  seen,  the  whole  of  it  appears  to  be  covered  with  trees 
and  vegetation,  except  about  space  enoujrh  for  a  side 
view  of  the  Old  Man's  bust.     All  the  principal  features 
of  the  human  face,  as  seen  in  a  profile,  are  formed  with 
surprising  exactness.     The  little  lake  at  the  bottom  jf  the 
precipice,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Pemigewasset  river.     Half  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  this  there  is  another  lake,   surrounded  with  ro- 
mantic scenery,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  more  than 
half  a  mile  in  breadth.     This  is  one  of  the  sources  of  the 
southern  branch  of  the  Ammonoosuck,  which  flows  into 
tlie  Connecticut.     These  lakes  are  both  situated  in  the 
Notch,  very  near  the  road,  and  near  the  point  where  the 
steep  ascent   of    Mount    Lafayette    commences.     The 
northern  lake  is  900  feet  above  the  site  of  the  Franconia 
iron  works,  and  the  highest  point  in  the  road  through  the 
Notch  is  1028  feet  above  the  same  level.     Otjier  curiosi- 
ties in  this  vicinity  are  the  Basin  and  the  Pulpit. 

A  portion  of  he  Gap,  including  the  Notch  in  the  White 
Mountains^  which  is  the  most  sublime  and  interesting,  is 
about  5  or  6  miles  in  length.  It  is  composed  of  a  double 
barrier  of  mountains,  rising  very  abruptly  from  both  sides 
of  the  wild  roaring  river  Saco,  which  frequentl}  washes 
the  feet  of  both  barriers.  Sometimes  there  is  not  room 
for  a  single  carriage  to  pass  between  the  stream  and  the 
mountains,  and  the  road  is  cut  into  the  mountain  itself. 
This  double  barrier  rises  on  each  side  to  the  height  of 


m 


"^*'^''m 


K 


316 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


I 


rfti 


nearly  half  a  mile  in  perpendicular  altitude,  and  is  capped 
here  and  there  by  proud  castellated  turrets,  standing  higli 
above  the  continued  ridges.  These  are  not  straight,  but 
are  formed  into  numerous  zigzag  turns,  which  frequently 
cut  off  the  view  and  seem  to  imi)ris*on  the  traveller  in  the 
vast,  gloomy  gulf.  The  sides  of  the  mountains  arc  deeply 
furrowed  and  scarred  by  the  tremendous  effects  of  the 
memorable  deluge  and  avalanches  of  182(j.  No  tradition 
existed  of  any  slide  in  former  times,  and  such  as  are  now 
observed  to  have  formerly  happened,  had  been  completely 
veiled  by  forest  growth  and  shrubs.  At  length,  on  tlie 
28th  of  June,  two  months  before  the  fatal  avalanche, 
there  was  one  not  far  from  the  Willey  house,  which  so  far 
alarmed  the  family,  that  they  erected  an  encampment  a 
little  distance  from  their  dwelling,  intending  it  as  a  place 
of  refuge.  On  the  fatal  night,  it  was  impenetrably  dark 
and  frightfully  tempestuous  ;  the  lonely  family  had  retired 
to  rest,  in  their  humble  dwelling,  6  miles  from  the  nearest 
human  creature.  The  avalanches  descended  in  every 
part  of  the  gulf,  for  a  distance  of  2  miles  ;  and  a  very 
heavy  one  began  on  the  mountain  top,  immediately  above 
the  house,  and  descended  in  a  direct  line  towards  it ;  the 
sweeping  torrent,  a  river  from  the  clouds,  and  a  river  full 
of  trees,  earth,  stone  and  rocks,  rushed  to  the  house  and 
marvellously  divided  within  six  feet  of  it,  and  just  behind 
it,  and  passed  cii  either  side,  sweeping  away  the  stable 
and  horses,  and  completely  encircling  the  dwelling,  but 
leaving  it  untouched.  At  this  time,  probably  towards 
midnight,  (as  the  state  of  Lhe  beds,  apparel,  &c.  showed 
that  the  family  had  retired  to  rest,)  the  family  issued 
from  the  house  and  were  swept  away  by  the  torrent. 


WHITE  MOL'NTAiNS. 


317 


Search,  for  two  or  three  days,  was  made  in  vain  for 
llie  bodies,  when  they  were  at  length  found.  They  were 
evidently  floated  alonjf  by  the  torrent  and  covered  by  the 
drift  wood.  A  pole,  with  a  board  nailed  aeross  it,  like  a 
puide  post,  now  indicates  the  spot  where  the  bodies  were 
found.  Had  the  family  remained  in  the  house  they  would 
have  been  entirely  safe.  Even  the  little  jifreen  in  front 
and  enfit  of  the  house  was  undisturbed,  and  a  flock  of 
sheep,  (r  part  of  the  possession  of  the  family,)  remained 
on  this  small  spot  of  ground,  and  were  found  there  the 
next  mor  ling  in  safety — although  the  torrent  dividing 
just  above  the  house,  and  forming  a  curve  on  both  sides, 
had  swept  completely  around  them,  again  united  below, 
and  covcied  the  meadows  and  orchard  with  ruins,  which 
remain  there  to  this  day.  Nine  persons  were  destroyed 
by  this  catastrophe,  and  the  story  of  their  virtues  and 
their  fate  is  often  told  to  the  traveller  by  the  scattered 
population  of  these  mountain  vallies,  in  a  style  of  simple 
pathos  and  minuteness  of  detail,  which  has  all  the  inter- 
est of  truth  and  incident  of  romance  in  its  recital.  The 
scene  of  this  disaster  was  about  7  miles  from  Ethan  A. 
Crawford's,  and  2  miles  from  the  commencement  of  the 
Notch. 

The  number  of  visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  has 
been  considerably  increased,  on  account  of  the  interest 
excited  by  these  avalanches.  The  most  sublime  views  of 
them,  (several  of  wliich  are  nearly  equai  to  the  memora- 
ble one  which  swept  away  the  unfortunate  Willey  family,) 
may  be  seen  all  along  for  several  miles,  in  passing 
through  the  Notch.  They  are  also  observed  from  vari- 
ous points  in  the  country  around,  extending  down  the 


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I  '       ',  r  -  KM 


318 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


fif 


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Bides  of  many  of  the  elevated  mountainn  ;  and  the  aston- 
ishinjr  effects  of  tliis  extraordinary  inundation  are  also 
witnessed  in  the  jrreat  enlargement  of  the  channels  of  the 
streams  whicli  rise  in  these  clusters  of  mountains.  Tliis 
is  the  fact  especially  with  regard  to  tho  channel  of  the 
principal  hranch  of  the  Ammonoosuck,  which  rises  near 
the  summit  of  Mount  Washington. 

The  camp  which  was  huilt  by  Mr.  Crawford  for  tho 
accommodation  of  visitors  over  night,  tw«  miles  and  a 
quarter  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington  was  sit- 
uated  near  this  branch,  and  was  carried  away  by  the 
swelling  of  the  stream.  A  small  camp  has  been  erected 
in  its  place,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  and  affords  no  accom- 
modations for  lodging  visitors  over  night. 

The  distance  from  Crawford's  house  to  the  summit  of 
Mount  Washington,  is  nine  miles.  Through  a  part  of 
this  distance  a  carriage  road  is  now  made,  leaving  only  4 
or  5  miles  to  be  ascended  on  foot.  The  time  usually  oc- 
cupied in  ascending  the  mountain,  reckoning  from  the 
time  of  leaving  Crawford's  house  to  the  time  of  returninrr 
to  it  again,  is  from  ten  to  fourteen  hours ;  and  the  short- 
est time  in  which  the  enterprise  has  been  performed  is 
about  eight  hours. 

Continuing  the  route  through  the  Notch,  the  first  house 
reached  is  the  elder  Crawford's,  six  miles  from  the  "  Notch 
house,"  as  that  once  occupied  by  the  unfortunate  Willey 
is  called.  Thence  to  Bartlett  is  seven  miles.  From  this 
place  to  Conway,  which  is  ten  miles,  there  are  more  ap- 
pearances of  cultivation,  particularly  in  the  little  valley 
through  which  the  road  passes.  The  country  around, 
however,  is  etill  wild  and  unimproved,  displaying  a  sue- 


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rKVEDDRaif. 


319 


cession  of  bold  and  lofty  mountain  scenery.  The  pros-^ 
pcct  at  the  village  of  Conway  is  bounded  on  the  nortli  and 
west  by  liifjli  mountains,  and  tho  several  muamits  of  tlic 
White  Mountains,  risinjr  at  30  miles  distance,  are  more 
easily  distincfuiblied  than  at  any  point  near  them. 

FiiYKBURGH,  in  Maine,  is  10  miles  from  Conway,  and  \& 
generally  taken  in  the  route  to  tlie  White  Mountains 
from  tho  east.  It  is  a  considerable  village,  built  uj)on  a 
wide  plain  upon  two  broad  streets,  and  has  a  respectable 
academy.  It  is  chiefly  interesting  as  being  associated 
with  the  early  history  of  our  country.  About  a  mile  from 
the  village  is  Lovell's  pond,  the  scene  of  the  bloody  fight 
in  1725  between  a  gallant  hand  of  Americans  under  Capt. 
Lovell,  and  tho  rcnmant  of  the  Pequawket  tribe  under 
the  renowned  Chief  Paugus,  From  Fryeburgh  to  Port- 
land, distant  52  miles,  the  road  is  over  a  dull  and  unin- 
teresting country  ;  but  travellers  designing  to  visit  that 
place  in  connection  with  the  White  Mountains  will  find 
it  the  most  direct  route.  [Fur  a  description  of  Portland^ 
sec  the  route  from  Boston  to  that  place  in  subsequeni 
pages.] 


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320 


CONWAY  TO  CONCORD. 


FROM  CONWAY  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. — 76  mileS. 

Returning  to  Conway,  and  proccoding  on  the  route  to 
Concord,  Six  Mile  Pond  is  passed  in  going  11  miles,  and 
Centre  Harbor  is  reached  in  going  24  miles  farther.  The 
road  for  20  or  30  miles,  is  through  a  valley  bordered  with 
lofty  mountains,  exhibiting  only  an  occasional  settlement. 

Centrk  Harbor  is  on  Lake  Winnipiseogec,  the  largest 
lake  in  the  state.  It  is  23  miles  long,  and  from  6  to  14 
broad,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  and  sublime 
scenery.  Tt  discharges  its  waters  through  the  Winni. 
piseogee  river  into  the  Merrimack,  232  feet  below  the 
lake.  From  the  top  of  Red  Muuntain,  in  Centre  HarW, 
1500  feet  high,  and  which  is  accessible  for  about  two 
thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage,  there  is  an  extensive  pros- 
pect.  At  the  distance  of  70  rnilcp  to  the  southwest  may 
be  seen  Mount  Monadnock  ;  at  the  west,  Kyarsage  and 
Simson  mountains;  at  the  northwest,  the  Moose  Hil- 
lock ;  at  the  north,  the  Sandwich  mountains,  with  the 
Squam  laivO  intervening ;  at  the  southeast,  the  Winni- 
pioeogee  lake,  with  its  numerous  islands,  bays,  and  the 
mountains  which  rise  from  its  borders,  including  Ossip- 
pee  on  the  northeast,  Gunstock  on  the  soutlx,  and  a 
semi-circular  mountain  on  the  termination  of  the  lake  at 
the  southeast ;  the  whole  forming  a  vast  billowy  ocean  cf 
lofty  mountains,  with  their  grand  intersecting  curves,  ex- 
hibiting a  complete  panorama  of  the  sublimcst  mountain 
scenery. 

Squam  Lake,  which  lies  west  of  the  mountain,  is  10 
miles  lorg  and  5  wide,  and  like  the  Winnipiseogec,  is 
sprinkled  with  numerous  small  and  beautiful   islands. 


■IF'i 


CONCORD* 


321 


The  finest  of  trout  are  caught  in  tliese  lakes,  and  their 
shores  abound  with  an  abundance  of  game,  affording  to 
the  angler  and  fowler  ample  means  of  employment  as 
well  as  amusement. 

The  route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Concord,*  41  milc&, 
passes  through  an  interesting  country,  affording  a  view  cf 
several  flourishing  villages. 

Concord  is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire.  The  vil- 
lage  is  principally  composed  of  two  streets  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  nnd  contains  a  state 
house,  state  prison,  town  house,  bank,  several  churches, 
4  or  5  printing  ofliccs,  and  about  300  dwelling  houses. 
The  state  house,  located  near  the  centre  of  the  village,  is 
an  elegant  building  of  hewn  granite,  100  feet  long,  with 
a  large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  the  senate  and  repre- 
sentatives' chamber  on  the  second.  The  building  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  spacious  yard,  which  is  enclosed  by  a  hand- 
some wall.  The  state  prison,  a  strong  building,  is  a  short 
distance  from  the  state  house. 

The  Merrimack  river  is  navigable  for  large  boats  from 
Concord  to  Chelmsfcrd  ;  whence  to  Boston  the  commu- 
nication is  continued  in  the  Middlesex  canal,  28  miles  long. 


^ 


*  Another  route  from  Centre  Harbor,  and  which  will 
be  preferred  by  thoso  who  do  not  wish  to  visit  Concord, 
is  to  take  the  steamboat  which  crosses  the  lake,  (which 
is  here  25  miles  wide,)  3  times  a  week  to  Alton  Bay  ; 
whence  stages  are  taken  to  Dover,  N.  H.,  40  miles  dis- 
tant ;  and  thence  stages  and  rail  roads  to  Boston,  through 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  Newburyport  and  Salem,  Mass.,  60 
miles  farther.  By  this  route,  passengers  leaving  Conway 
in  the  morning,  reach  Dover  tlie  same  evening,  and  Bos- 
ton the  next  day  at  noon. 


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>>  ,i 


322 


CONCORD  TO  BOSTON. 


FROM  CONCORD  TO  BOSTON — 73  milcS. 

Stages  leave  Concord  every  day,  passing  through  Hook- 
set,  Amoskeag,  Piscataqua,  and  Merrimack  to  Nashua, 
■whence  a  rail  road  is  taken  to  Boston.  The  routo  is 
mostly  along  the  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river ;  which, 
owing  to  its  rapid  descent,  affords  many  important  manu- 
facturing facilities. 

Nasii'ja,  33  miles  from  Concord,  is  the  most  important 
village  between  that  place  and  Lowell.  It  is  connected 
with  the  Merrimack  river  by  means  of  a  canal  a  mile  and 
a  half  lono",  and  contains  several  manufactories  and  about 
3000  inhabitants. 

The  Nashua  and  Lowell  Rail  Road,  commencing  at 
this  place,  extends  to  Lowell,  15  miles  distant.  It  is 
over  a  favorable  country,  and  its  cost  was  about  e$280,000. 
Carriages  pass  between  Nashua  and  Boston  three  times 
a  day. 

Lowell  is  an  incorporated  city,  and  the  largest  man- 
ufacturing town  in  the  United  States.  It  is  located  on 
the  Merrimack  river  and  the  Middlesex  canal  leading  to 
Boston.  The  falls  of  the  river  at  this  place  are  30  feet, 
and  afford  the  most  ample  means  for  extensive  operations 
by  water  power.  The  first  dwelling  and  factory  were 
commenced  in  1813,  and  the  place  now  assumes  the 
character  of  a  large  bustling  city,  laid  into  streets  with 
much  taste  and  elegance,  and  the  whole  appearance  of 
the  place  is  rendered  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  mag- 
nificent  and  numerous  factories  and  public  buildings  with 
which  it  is  adorned.  Its  population  at  the  census  in 
1835  was  12,363,  and  at  present  (1840)  is  estimated  at 


LOWELL. 


323 


20,000.  This  place  has  been  not  inaptly  termed  the 
*'  Manchester  of  America."  The  whole  amount  of  capi- 
tal invested  is  about  {$8,000,000,  and  the  number  of  large 
mills  in  operation,  24.  These  mills  arc  each  about  157 
feet  long  and  45  broad — of  brick,  5  stories  high,  each  sto- 
ry averaging  from  10  to  13  feet  high,  thus  giving  opportu- 
nity for  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  aggregate  number 
of  spindles  used  is  90,000 — looms,  3500.  The  whole  num- 
ber of  operatives  employed  is  about  5000,  of  which  1200  are 
males,  and  3800  females.  The  quantity  of  raw  cotton  used 
in  these  mills  per  annum  exceeds  80,000,000  pounds  or 
20,000  bales.  The  number  of  yards  of  cotton  goods  of 
various  qualities  manufactured  annually  is  about  27,000,- 
000.  Were  the  different  pieces  united,  they  would  reach 
to  the  distance  of  15,300  miles!  In  this  estimate  is  in- 
cluded about  2,000,000  yards  of  coarse  mixed  cotton  and 
woollen  negro  clothing,  in  the  manufacture  of  which 
about  80,000  pounds  of  wool  arc  used  per  annum. 

The  quantity  of  wool  manufactured  annually  in  cassi- 
meres  is  about  150,000  pounds,  making  about  150,000 
yards. 

The  Lowell  Carpet  Manufactory  is  in  itself  a  curiosity. 
Sixty-eight  looms  are  kept  in  operation  by  hand  labor,  viz. 
50  for  ingrained  or  Kidderminster  carpeting,  10  for  Brus- 
sels, and  8  for  rugs  of  various  kinds.  One  hundred  and 
forty  thousand  pounds  of  wool  in  the  course  of  a  year  are 
manufactured  into  rich  and  beautiful  carpets,  the  colors 
of  which  will  vie  with  any  imported.  The  number  of 
yards  of  carpeting  made  per  animm  is  upwards  of  120,000, 
besides  rugs.     The  operatives  at  present  employed  in  all 

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f    j:-i 


324 


BOSTON  AND  LOWELL  RAIL  ROAD. 


these  mills  receive  for  their  labor  about  $1,200,000  per 
annum. 

The  edifice  in  which  ail  tlic  machinery  employed  in  the 
mills  is  manufactured,  is  termed  the  '  Machine  Shop,'  be- 
longing  to  the  Lockti  and  Canal  Company,  and  is  proba- 
bly  the  largest  '  shop'  in  the  country,  being  built  of  brick, 
4  stories  high,  220  feet  in  length  and  45  in  width. 

The  great  water  power  is  produced  by  a  canal  a  mile 
and  a  half  long,  60  feet  wide,  and  8  feet  deep  from  its 
commencement  above  the  head  of  Pawtucket  falls  on  the 
Merrimack,  to  its  termination  in  Concord  river.  The  Kin. 
tire  fall  is  32  feet.  The  water  is  taken  from  this  canal 
by  smaller  canals,  and  conveyed  to  the  factories,  and 
thence  into  the  Merrimack.  There  are  room  and  water 
power  suflicient  for  50  additional  factories. 

The  Boston  and  Lowell  Rail  Road  commences  at 
the  basin  of  the  canal  in  Lowell,  and  after  passing  through 
a  heavy  excavation  of  rock,  proceeds  over  an  undulating 
country  to  the  Charles  river  at  Boston,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  wooden  viaduct  on  the  west  side  of  the  Warren 
bridge.  The  length  of  the  road  is  25  miles,  and  the  in- 
clination in  no  part  of  the  route  exceeds  10  feet  in  a  mile. 
At  first  a  single  track  only  was  constructed,  but  a  second 
has  since  been  completed.  The  materials  employed  are 
principally  stone  and  iron,  and  the  workmanship  is  highly 
creditable  to  the  company  and  to  the  individuals  engaged 
in  the  construction.  The  cost  of  the  road,  thus  far,  has 
been  Sl'500,000;  and  the  receipts  have  exceeded  the 
original  estimates.  At  Wilmington,  a  branch  7  1-2  miles 
long,  extends  to  Andovcr. 


BOSTON. 


325 


THE  CITY  OF  BOSTON,* 

The  metropolis  of  Ncw-Enoland,  is  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  bottom  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  on  a  peninsula  of  an 
uneven  surface,  two  miles  long-,  and  in  the  widest  part  about 
one  mile  broad.  The  town  owes  its  origin  to  a  spirit  of 
civil  and  rehgious  liberty,  which  was  excited  to  action  by 
the  persecutions  that  prevailed  in  England  during  the 
reigns  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and  Kings  James  and  Charles  I. 
Most  of  those  who  can  prc/Cx  ly  be  considered  ViS  first  set- 
tlers arrived  prior  to  the  year  1G43.  The  place  was  first 
called  Trimountain,  in  consequence  of  three  hills  which 
were  on  the  peninsula.  It  was  afterwards  called  Boston, 
in  honor  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cotton,  a  minister  of  the  first 
church  in  the  town,  whose  native  place  was  Boston  in 
England. 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States.  It 
has  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  vessels  at 
all  times  of  tide,  and  is  accessible  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year.  It  is  safe  from  every  wind,  and  so  capacious  Ihat 
it  will  allow  500  vessels  to  ride  at  anchor,  while  the  en- 
trance is  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit  two  ships  abreast. 
It  contains  about  75  square  miles,  within  which  arc  up- 
wards  of  100  islands  or  rocks ;  and  receiver?  within  its  bo- 
som the  waters  of  tiie  Mystic,  Ciiarles,  Ncponset  and 
Manatticut  rivers,  besides  several  streams  of  less  magni- 
tude. 

Boston  is  very  extensively  engaged  in  commerce,  and 
there  are  probably  few  cities  in  the  world  where  there  is 


*  Bowen's  Picture  of  Boston  will  prove  a  valuable  guide 
to  strangers  visiting  that  city  and  its  environs. 


fefi 


i 

^  t     M 


326 


BOSTON. 


SO  much  wealth  in  proportion  to  tlie  population.  The 
trade,  too,  received  from  an  extensive  inland  country,  is 
very  great,  the  facilities  for  approacliinjr  the  city  being 
rendered  easy  by  means  of  excellent  roads. 

The  appearance  of  Boston  is  much  admired  by  stran- 
gers,  particularly  when  approaching  from  the  sea.  Its 
streets  do  not  exhibit  so  great  a  regularity  as  some  other 
cities;  but  its  beautiful  location  and  elegant  pubhc  and 
private  buildings,  together  with  its  richly  ornamental 
grounds  for  promenading,  render  it  altogether  a  peculiarly 
delightful  and  attractive  place. 

The  city  is  divided  into  five  local  districts,  called  North 
Boston,  East  Boston,  West  Boston,  South  End  and  South 
Boston ;  and  its  population  is  betvv'ccn  80  and  90,000. 
From  Copp's  Hill,  in  North  Boston,  which  is  partly  occu- 
pied  for  a  church  yard,  the  British  cannonaded  the  town 
of  Charlestown  in  1775,  during  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill, 
when  the  village  was  mostly  destroyed  by  conflagration. 

In  the  southwestern  part  of  the  city,  and  in  front  of  the 
state  house,  is  the  celebrated  Common,  presenting  an  area 
CI  about  50  acres,  enclosed  by  an  elegant  iron  fence,  and 
containing  the  Mall,  a  very  beautiful  public  walk,  adorn- 
ed  with  rows  of  trees.  This  is  a  delightful  promenade 
during  the  summer  months,  and  a  place  of  general  resort. 
In  the  centre  of  the  Common  is  an  eminence  still  exhib- 
iting marks  of  the  fortification  erected  by  the  British 
during  the  revolution ;  north  of  which  is  the  Crescent 
JPond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  with  trees. 
Near  the  Mall,  in  Mason  street,  is  the  Medical  collcgo, 
an  edifice  belonging  to  Harvard  University,  surmounted 
by  a  dome  with  a  sky-light  and  balustrade. 


''ilii 


BOSTON. 


327 


The 

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lie  and 
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culiarly 


I'he  Boston  Atheneum  is  located  nesr  the  head  of  Pearl 
street,  and  is  a  very  spacious  bulMin^,  containing  appro- 
priate rooms.  The  number  of  volumes  attached  to  the 
institution  is  about  35,000.  It  also  contains  nearly  14,000 
medals  and  coins,  some  of  which  are  very  rare  and  inter- 
esting-. The  rooms  are  open  from  8  A.  M.  to  9  P.  M.  and 
can  be  visited  by  strangers  introduced  by  subscribers. 

The  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts  is  a  handsome  structure  in 
the  rear  of  the  Atheneum,  and  is  appropriated  for  scien- 
tific lectures,  the  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the 
Massachusetts  Medical  Library,  a  philosophical  apparatus' 
of  the  Mechanic  Institution,  and  for  paintings  ;  the  latter 
of  which  are  exhibited  in  the  upper  story,  and  are  gene^ 
rally  very  elegant. 

Among  the  other  literary  institutions  in  the  city  are  the 
Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  who  have  an  extensive 
library  in  a  spacious  apartment  over  the  arch  in  Franklin 
street;  \he  Boston  Library  Society,  who  have  a  collec- 
tion of  8000  volumes  ;  and  the  Colurdbian  Library,  which 
contains  about  4500  volumes.  There  are  also  numerous 
other  libraries  of  less  note.  Among  the  benevolent  insti- 
tutions are  the  House  of  Industry  at  South  Boston,  of 
rough  dimension  stone,  220  feet  long,  and  43  wide  ;  the 
Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  founded  in  1818,  which 
has  been  richly  endowed  by  the  slate  and  individuals  ; 
the  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary  ;  a  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
the  buildings  for  which  are  at  Charlestown  ;  the  New- 
England  Institute  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind,  situa- 
ted in  Pearl  street,  and  richly  endowed  by  Col.  Perkins 
and  the  munificence  of  the  state  ;  and  the  Farm  School 
for  boys,  on  Thompson's  Isbnd. 


V  -J] 


Nil 


323 


BOSTON. 


IL'I 


•*%•» 


The  first  houses  built  in  the  city  were  plain,  and  the 
streets  narrow   and    crooked ;    but  a  few    years  have 
wroiiglit  a  striking  and    almost  incredible  change ;  new 
streets  have  been  laid  out,  old  ones  straightened  and  im- 
proved,  and  neat  brick  and  granite  dwellings  have  been 
substituted  for    the   ill-shapen   and   decaying  houses  of 
wood.     The  private  buildings,  and  many  of  the  stores  are 
more  splendid  than  in  any  other  city  of  the  United  States. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  State  House,  which 
js  built  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  containing  an  elegant  stat- 
ue  of  Washington ;  the  County  Court  House,  built  of 
stone,  at  an  expense  of  ^9  ^,000  ;  the  Municipal  Court 
House ;    a  stone  .Tail ;    Fanueil   Hall,  where   all   public 
meetings  of  the   citizens   are   held  ;    the   Fanueil   Hall 
Market,  one  of  the  most  expensive  and  beautiful  build- 
ings  of  tlie  kind  in  the  world ;  3  Theatres,  one  of  which 
(the  Treraont)  cost  about  ,^120,000,  being  135  feet  in 
length  and  about  80  in  breadth,  the  front  of  Hallowell  and 
Quiney  granite,  in  imitation  of  the  Ionic  order,  with  four 
pilasters  supporting  an   entablature  and  pediment,  and 
elevated  on  a  basement  of  17  feet ;  the  Custom  House, 
City  Hall,  Masonic  Temple,  Boylston  Market  and  Boyl- 
ston  Hall ;  Congress,  Amory,  Artist's  Gallery,  Concert, 
Corinthian,  Pantheon,  Washington  and  Chauncey  Halls. 
Bridges. — There  arc  seven  bridges  connecting  Boston 
with  the  adjacent  towns.     Charles  River  bridge,  which 
connects  it  with  Charlestown  on  the  North,  1503  feet 
long  ;  Warren  free  bridge,  nearly  parallel  with  the  for- 
mer, and  also  running  to  Charlestown,  1420  feet  long,  on 
piers  and   Macadamized ;  West  Boston  bridge,  connect- 


BOSTON. 


329 


jng  it  with  Cambridge  Port  on  the  west,  7810  feet  hug; 
Cragie's  Canal  bridge,  between  the  hist  two,  conneeting 
it  with  Lechmere  Point,  :2796  feet  long ;  and  two  free 
bridges  uniting  it  to  South  Boston.  The  other  avenue  is 
a  mill  dam,  nearly  2  miles  long  and  50  feet  wide,  across 
the  bay  on  tlie  southwest  side  of  the  city ;  which  not 
only  furnishes  a  bridge,  but  puts  in  operation  extensive 
tide-mills  and  other  water  works.  This  dam  cost  up- 
wards of  «*$600,000.  There  is  a  branch  from  Cragie's 
bridge  also,  which  runs  to  Charlestown  Point,  near  the 
Massachusetts  state  prison. 

Churches. — There  are  rising  of  50  churches  in  Boston, 
many  of  which  have  been  built  at  great  expense,  and  are 
very  elegant.  On  one  of  the  quoins  at  the  southwest 
corner  of  the  Brattle  street  church,  of  which  Gov.  Han- 
cock was  a  benefactor,  his  name  had  been  inscribed  ;  but 
it  was  effaced  by  the  British  soldiery  during  the  revolu- 
tion, and  the  stone  has  been  permitted  to  remain  as  they 
left  it.  A  shot  from  the  Americans  on  the  night  previ- 
ous to  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the  British,  still  re- 
mains in  the  tower  where  it  originally  struck.  In  St. 
Paul's  church,  in  Tremont  street,  there  is  an  elegant 
monument  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Warren,  who  was  slain 
on  Bunker  Hill,  and  whose  remains  are  entombed  in  the 
cemetry  beneath  this  church. 

Burial  Grounds. — In  the  Chapel  burial  ground,  north 
of  the  stone  chapel,  there  are  several  ancient  monuments  ; 
and  among  others  that  of  Gov.  Wir/hrop,  who  died  in 
1649.  In  the  Copfs  Hill  ground  similar  mementes  of 
antiquity  are  found.  In  the  Granary  ground,  the  ceno- 
taph erected  to  the  memory  of  Doct.  Franklin  stands 


■'.-.i 


1 


,!'B 


.if;  \ 


"Vf; 

.:■■'? « 

,■.    '-'i^ 

'  ■    ■    •  r 

■'.Ml: 

330 


UOSTON. 


■,.'l, 

I* 
If.   i 

.'Vi 


over  the  tomb,  \n  which  n-nosc  the  remains  of  both  his 
parents.  The  tombs  of  Governors  Bellingham,  Sumner 
and  Sullivan  are  also  in  tliis  {ground. 

The  New-England  Mu.seuni,  in  Court  street,  is  j)rob. 
ably  the  best  in  the  United  States,  containing  G0,000 
curiosities,  and  shoiUd  be  visited  by  every  stranger  before 
leaving  the  city. 

Hotels — Trcmont  House  is  the  most  superb  hotel  in 
Boston,  and  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  Union.  It  is  three 
stories  high  in  front  and  four  on  the  wings,  exclusive  of 
the  basement.  The  front  and  two  circular  ends  facing 
Beacon  street,  and  the  open  ground  south  of  the  building, 
are  of  Quincy  granite,  and  surmounted  by  an  entablature, 
supported  by  antes  at  each  extremity.  The  portico, 
which  is  of  the  same  material,  is  37  feet  long  by  7  feet  in 
width,  and  25  feet  high.  Four  fluted  columns  support 
the  roof  of  the  portico,  the  proportions  of  which  are  copied 
from  those  of  the  Doric  Portico  at  Athens,  with  the  ex- 
ception that  the  portico  of  the  Tremont  House  di-triglyph, 
the  inter  columniations  being  nearly  equal.  The  whole 
number  of  rooms  is  one  hundred  and  eighty ;  and  the 
principal  entrance  is  nearly  opposite  the  Tremont  Theatre. 
From  the  top  of  this  structure,  an  extensive  and  beautiful 
landscape,  comprising  a  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  amphi- 
theatre of  hills  to  the  west,  and  of  the  towns  of  Charles- 
town  and  Chelsea  to  the  north,  presents  itself.  - 

The  next  hotel  in  extent  is  the  American  House,  in 
Hanover  street,  beautifully  fitted  up  in  the  most  modern 
style.  It  is  lighted  throughout  with  gas,  and  in  point  of 
reputation  will  compare  with  any  house  in  the  country. 
Besides  these,  the  following  axe  well  managed  and  pop 


>.i ' 


^. 


80ST0N. 


33  L 


ular  establishments :  the  Ncvv-Eng^land  Coffee  House, 
the  Pearl  street  House,  the  Exchanprc  Coffee  House, 
Bromficld  House,  Lafayette  Hotel,  Marlboro'  Hotel, 
Franklin  House,  Hanover  House,  Commercial  Coffee 
House,  City  Tavern,  Blackstone  House,  National  House, 
the  Maverick  House  at  East  Boston  and  the  Mount 
Washington  House  at  South  Boston.  The  Shawmut 
House,  in  Hanover  street,  conducted  on  the  iiuropean 
plan,  is  a  very  elegant  establishment. 

The  ^lancock  House,  the  former  residence  of  Governor 
Hancock,  is  still  in  good  preservation  in  Beacon  street, 
near  the  state  house.  There  are  also  several  ancient 
buildings  in  the  vicinity  of  Ann  street  and  Market  scjuarc ; 
in  one  of  which,  opposite  the  Golden  Key,  a  relative  of 
Doct.  Franklin  formerly  resided,  to  whom  he  was  in  the 
habit  of  paying  frequent  visits. 

For  the  benefit  of  public  Louses  and  travellers,  a  Stage 
Register  is  published,  once  in  two  months,  by  Messrs. 
Badger  &l  Porter,  at  the  office  of  the  American  Traveller, 
!No.  47  Court  street,  containing  an  account  of  the  princi- 
pal lines  of  stages,  steamboats,  rail  loads  and  canal  pack- 
ets in  New -England  and  New- York. 

The  country  around  Boston  is  the  admiration  of  every  4' 
traveller  of  taste.  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  state 
house  surpasses  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  this  country,  and 
is  not  excelled  by  that  from  the  castle  hill  of  Edinburgh,  or 
that  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  from  the  castle  of  St.  Elmo. 
Here  may  be  seen  at  one  view,  the  shipping,  the  harbor, 
variegated  with  islands  and  alive  with  business  ;  Charles 
river  and  its  beautiful  country,  ornamented  with  elegant 
private  mansions  ;   and  more   than  twenty  flourishing 

DO 


/I 


m 


4\  HI 


!        ^    "4' 


■ti  -^^ 


332 


EAST    BOSTON — MOUNT    AUBURN. 


«'r   n 


towns.     The  hills  are  finely  cultivated,  and  rounded  by 
the  hand  of  nature  with  singular  felicity. 

East  Boston  is  a  new  part  of  the  city,  built  on  what 
was  formerly  called  Noddle's  Island,  a  tract  nearly  as 
large  as  the  peninsula  of  Boston.  The  island,  like  "  Win. 
nisiment,"  in  Chelsea,  has  grown  up  under  the  manage- 
ment of  an  incorporated  company.  In  1830  there  was 
but  one  house  on  the  island  ;  since  which  it  has  been  laid 
out  into  lots  and  streets  ;  many  handsome  dwellings  have 
been  erected,  and  the  place  now  contains  several  hundred 
inhabitants.  There  are  tliree  steamboats  on  the  ferry 
connecting  it  with  tiie  city,  which  ply  constantly  from 
morning  till  midnight.  The  Maverick  House,  located 
here,  is  a  large  and  well  conducted  hotel. 

Mount  Auburn.  Every  traveller  of  taste  should  visit 
the  new  cemetry  at  Mount  Auburn,  in  Cambridgpc,  5  miles 
from  Boston.  It  is  the  pere  la  chaise  of  this  country, 
and  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  ever 
selected  for  the  repose  of  the  dead.  The  grounds  are 
very  extensive,  comprising  every  variety  of  hill  and  dale, 
covered  with  trees  and  shrubbery  of  almost  every  kind. 
There  are  numerous  "  avenues"  for  carriages,  and  "  paths" 
for  pedestrians,  designated  by  botanical  names.  The  in- 
terments  as  yet  have  not  been  numerous ;  though  the 
lots  are  all  laid  out,  and  many  of  them  finished.  Miss 
Hannah  Adams,  the  historian  of  the  Jews,  was  the  first 
tenant  of  Mount  Auburn.  She  died  in  December,  1831. 
Nature  made  this  retreat  romantic — art  has  rendered  it 
beautiful — the  Creator  formed  it  lovely — man  has  made 
it  sacred. 


^ 


QUINCV — UORCIIP.STIR. 


333 


QuiNcv,  which  is  distinguislicd  for  having  furnished 
two  Presidents  of  the  United  States,  is  10  miles  from 
Boston,  in  a  soutlicrly  direction.  About  liaM"  a  mile  nortli- 
west  of  the  villafTt;  is  the  mansion  of  the  late  John  Ad- 
ams, the  second  president.  His  remains  und  those  of  his 
wife  repose  beneath  the  new  church  at  Quincy,  within 
which  a  iiandsome  monument  to  their  memory  has  been 
erected  by  his  son,  John  Quincy  Adams,  witli  a  suitable 
inscription. 

The  southwest  part  of  the  town  is  mostly  composed  of 
inexhaustible  beds  of  granite,  for  the  transportation  of 
which  a  rail  road  is  used  from  the  beds  to  tide  water,  3 
miles  long.  This  was  the  first  rail  road  made  in  the 
country.  For  a  great  par);  of  the  distance  it  is  on  an  in- 
clination of  one  and  a  half  inch  to  the  rod,  and  the  ordi- 
nary load  drawn  by  a  horse  is  between  8  and  9  tons. 

DoiiciiKSTER,  is  an  ancient  'town,  about  4  1.2  miles 
south  of  Boston,  having  been  settled  in  1 630,  soon  after 
Plymouth  and  Salem.  The  roads  are  numerous  and 
crooked,  but  mostly  level  and  kept  in  good  repair.  Many 
fine  country  scats  and  substantial  farm  houses  are  thickly 
arranged  on  their  sides.  They  have  a  town  house,  three 
congregational  churches,  and  one  for  methodists.  The 
population  is  about  4000.  The  peninsula,  called  Dorches- 
ter Neck,  borders  on  Boston  harbor,  and  a  part  of  it  is 
incorporated  with  the  town  of  Boston.  Savin  Hill,  in  this 
town,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  and  the  peninsula 
of  Squantum  is  famous  for  its  yearly  feast  of  shells.  On 
the  4th  of  March,  1776,  1200  men,  sent  by  Gen.  Wash, 
ington,  threw  up  works  on  Dorchester  heights  in  the  night, 


'^..  i\ 


I  >K^ 


iii  f  i  ■"  f 


m 


f*V.»  1 


It    I 


.f 


t  \i 


if? 


#.. 


334 


BRIGHTON — CHARLESTOWN. 


It 


•  .;»; 


tell 


if 


•i    r 


iiift 


iu'li, 


ill 


which  commanded  Boston  harbor  and  drove  the  British 
army  away.     Traces  of  these  works  still  remain. 

Brighton,  5  miles  west  of  Boston,  was  formerly  a  part 
of  Cambridjrc,  and  lies  between  that  place  and  Brookline. 
Here  is  held  the  famous  Cattle  Fair  and  mart,  which 
was  commenced  during  the  revolutionary  war,  and  has 
been  increasing  in  importance  ever  since.  Most  of  the 
cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  Boston  market  are  brought  in 
droves  to  this  place  ;  often  from  2  to  3000  a  week ;  every 
Monday  is  the  fair  day,  when  the  dealers  resort  thither  to 
make  their  purchases. 

Watertown  is  on  Charles  river,  7  miles  northwest 
from  Boston,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  extensive  manu- 
facturing establishments.  The  provincial  congress  sat 
here  in  1775,  and  were  in  session  during  the  battle  of 
Bunker  Hill.  The  United  States  have  an  Arsenal  estab- 
lished  in  this  town.  Fresh  Pond,  one  of  the  most  en. 
chanting  retreats  in  the  vicinity  of  the  metropolis,  hes 
partly  in  this  town  and  partly  in  Cambridge. 

Cambridge,  2  miles  w^est  from  Boston.     {See  p.  306.) 

Charlestown  is  a  place  of  singular  shape,  extending 
in  a  northwesterly  direction  from  Boston  harbor,  about  9 
miles  in  length,  and  not  averaging  a  breadth  of  one  mile, 
and  in  some  parts  it  is  not  a  quarter  of  ?  mile  wide.  The 
compact  part  of  the  town  is  situated  on  the  peninsula 
next  to  Boston,  and  is  laid  out  in  regular  streets.  Charles- 
town  contains  a  population  of  near  9000.  It  has  5  houses 
for  public  worship,  3  banks,  a  spacious  alms  house,  and  a 
handsome  town  hall  and  market  house.  Besides  CharleB 
river,  Warren  and  Prison  Point  bridges,  which  connect 


irf^ 


.J' 


breed's  hill. 


335 


this  town  with  Boston,  there  is  Chelsea  bridge  on  the 
Salem  turnpike,  and  Maiden  bridge,  both  over  the  Mystic 
river.  Breed's  Hill  and  Bunker's  Hill  both  he  within 
this  peninsula ;  the  former  is  62  feet  in  height,  the  latter 
110  feet.  The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  in  this  town,  consists 
of  about  60  acres  of  land,  on  which  are  built  a  large  brick 
ware  house,  several  arsenals,  magazines  for  various  kinds 
of  stores,  a  ropewalk,  and  a  large  brick  mansion  house  for 
the  superintending  officer.  The  Dry  Dock  in  this  yard, 
is  the  finest  in  the  United  States.  Its  cost  has  been 
about  half  a  million  of  dollars.  The  State  Prison,  at  the 
west  end  of  the  town,  is  built  of  granite,  and  is  a  mas. 
sive  and  imposing  structure.  The  Massachusetts  Insane 
Hospital  is  delightfully  situated  upon  Pleasant  Hill,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  town.  On  Mount  Benedict,  about  2  1-2 
miles  from  Boston,  commanding  one  of  the  most  rich  and 
variegated  prospects  in  the  United  States,  are  to  be  seen 
the  ruins  of  the  UrsuHne  Convent,  burnt  in  the  night  by 
a  mob  in  1835. 

Bueed's  Hill  is  situated  one  fourth  of  a  mile  north- 
east of  the  village  of  Charlestown,  and  affords  a  pleasant 
prospect  of  Boston,  (2  miles  distant,)  the  harbor.  Cam- 
bride  and  its  colleges,  and  of  an  extensive  and  highly  cul- 
tivated  country. 

In  the  month  of  May,  after  the  battle  of  liCxington,  it 
was  conjectured  from  the  movements  of  the  British  army 
that  Gen.  Gage  intended  to  penetrate  into  the  country. 
It  was  accordingly  decided  by  the  provincial  congress  to 
attempt  a  defence  of  Dorchester  Neck,  and  to  occupy 
Bunker's  Hili,  just  within  the  Peninsula  on  which  Charles- 
town  stands.     A  detachment  of  1000  men,  under  Col. 

dd2 


h 


^i.U'i 


•*y. 


-  I'r 


336 


breed's  hill. 


.J  i 


'■i 


m 


mi 


Prescott,  proceeded  to  execute  these  orders ;  but  by  some 
mistake,  Breed's  Hill,  situated  on  the  farther  part  of  the 
peninsula,  was  selected  for  the  proposed  entrenchments. 

The  party  under  Col.  Prescott  proceeded  in  theii  work 
with  so  much  dili'^cnce  and  secrecy,  that  by  the  dawn  of 
day,  they  had  thrown  up  a  square  redoubt  of  about  40 
yards  on  each  side.  Day  light  discovered  this  new  work 
to  the  British,  and  a  heavy  canonnade  was  commenced 
upon  it  from  the  shippings  in  the  river.  The  fire  was 
borne  with  firmness  by  *he  Americans,  and  did  not  pre- 
vent  them  from  soon  constrnctinor  a  breast  work,  which 
extended  from  the  redoubt  to  tlie  bottom  of  the  hill. 

*'  As  this  eminence  overlooked  Boston,  General  Gage 
thought  it  necessary  to  drive  the  provincials  from  it.  To 
effect  this  object,  he  detached  Major  General  Howe  and 
^  Brigadier  (General  Pigot,  at  the  head  of  ten  companies  of 

grenadiers  and  the  same  number  of  light  infantry,  with  a 
proper  proportion  of  field  artillery.  These  troops  landed 
at  Morcton's  Point,  where  they  immediately  formed ;  but 
perceiving  the  Americans  to  wait  for  them  with  firmness, 
they  remained  on  their  ground  until  the  success  of  the 
enterprizc  should  be  rendered  secure  by  the  arrival  of  a 
reinforcement  from  Boston,  for  which  General  Howe  had 
applied.  During  this  interval  the  Americans  also  were 
reinfoiced  by  a  body  of  their  countrymen,  led  by  Generals 
Warren  and  Ponieroy ;  and  they  availed  themselves  of 
this  delay  to  increase  their  security,  by  pulling  up  some 
adjoining  post  and  rail  fences,  and  arranging  them  in  two 
parallel  lines  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other ;  the 
space  between  which  they  filled  up  with  hay,  so  as  to 
form  a  complete  cover  from  the  musketry  of  the  enemy. 


.«■ 


some 

f  the 

3nts. 

work 

wn  of 

ut  40 
work 

lenced 

re  was 

)t  pre- 

which 

I. 

[  Gage 

,t.    To 

wc  and 

inics  of 
with  a 
landed 

5d;  but 

•mness, 
of  the 
al  of  a 
c  had 
o  were 
enerals 
Ives  of 
ip  some 
in  two 
r;  the 
o  as  to 
nemy. 


hreed's  hill. 


337 


"  On  being  joined  by  their  second  detachment,  the 
British  troops,  who  were  formed  in  two  hnes,  advanced 
slowly  under  cover  of  a  very  heavy  discharge  of  cannon 
and  howitzers,  frequently  halting  in  order  to  allow  their 
artillery  time  to  demolisli  the  works.  While  they  were 
advancing,  orders  were  given  to  set  fire  to  Charlestown, 
a  liandsome  village  containing  about  .500  houses,  which 
flanked  tho^r  line  of  march.  The  buildings  were  chiefly 
of  wood,  and  the  flames  were  quickly  communicated  so 
extensively,  that  almost  the  whole  town  was  ii)  one  great 
blaze. 

"  It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  a  more  grand  and  more 
awful  spcctr.cle  than  was  now  exhibited  ;  nor  a  moment 
of  more  anxious  expectation  than  tliat  which  was  now  pre- 
sented. The  scene  of  action  was  in  full  view  of  the 
heights  of  Boston  and  of  its  neicbborliood,  which,  were 
covered  with  spectatorr-  taking  deep  and  opposite  inter- 
ests in  the  events  passing  before  them.  The  soldiers  of 
the  two  hostile  armies  not  on  duty,  the  citizens  of  Boston 
and  the  inhabitants  of  tlie  adjacent  country,  all  feeling 
emotions  which  set  description  at  defiance,  were  wit- 
nesses of  the  majestic  and  tremendous  scene. 

"  The  provincials  permitted  the  enemy  to  approach  un- 
molested  within  less  than  one  hundred  yards  of  their 
works,  when  they  poured  in  upon  them  so  deadly  a  fire  of 
small  arms,  that  the  British  line  was  totally  broken,  and 
fell  back  with  precipitation  towards  the  landinu'  place. 
By  the  very  great  exertions  of  their  officery,  tliey  were 
rallied  and  brought  up  to  the  charge,  but  were  again 
driven  back  in  confusion  by  the  heavy  and  incessant  fire 
from  the  works.     General  Howe  is  said  to  have  been 


'"«'4',;!i'i 


::(lt 


'mi 


4  I, I 


i'M¥!h 


i 


I   '" 


■■■  's 


k.'-i! 


338 


itREED*S  HILL. 


i''li 


m 


ll 


left  at  one  time  almost  alone,  and  it  is  certain  that  verj' 
few  officers  about  his  person  escaped  unhurt. 

"  The  impression  to  be  made  by  victory  or  defeat,  in 
this  early  stage  of  the  war,  was  deemed  of  the  utmost 
consequence  ;  and  therefore  very  extraordinary  exertions 
were  made  once  more  to  rally  the  English.  With  great 
difficulty,  they  were  a  third  time  led  up  to  the  worKs. 
The  redoubt  was  now  attacked  on  three  sides  at  once, 
while  some  pieces  of  artillery  which  had  been  brought  to 
bear  on  the  breast  work,  raked  it  from  end  to  end.  The 
cross  fire  too,  from  the  ships  and  floating  batteries,  not 
only  annoyed  the  works  on  Breed's  Hill,  but  deterred  any 
considerable  reinforcements  from  passing  into  the  penin- 
sula  and  coming  to  their  assistance.  The  ammunition  of 
the  Americans  was  nov:  so  nearly  exhausted,  that  they 
were  no  longer  able  to  keep  up  the  same  incessant  stream 
of  fire,  which  had  twice  repulsed  the  enemy  ;  and  on  this 
third  attempt,  the  redoubt,  the  walls  of  which  the  English 
mounted  with  ease,  was  carried  at  the  point  of  the  bayo- 
net. Yet  the  Americans,  many  of  whom  were  without 
bayonets,  are  said  to  have  maintained  the  contest  with 
clubbed  muskets,  until  the  redoubt  was  half  filled  with 
the  king's  troops. 

"  The  redoubt  being  lost,  the  breast  work  which  had 
been  defended  with  equal  courage  and  obstinacy,  was  ne- 
cessarily abandoned ;  and  the  very  hazardous  operation 
undertaken  of  retreating  in  the  face  of  a  victorious  ene- 
my,  over  Charlestown  Neck  ;  where  they  were  exposed  to 
the  same  cross  fire  from  the  Glasgow  man  of  war  and  two 
floating  batteries,  which  had  deterred  the  reinforcements 
ordered  to  their  aid  from  coming  to  their  assistance,  and 


^^ 


t-iii 


I '4 


V    , 


very 

it,  in 
tmost 
rtions 

great 
vorKs. 

once, 

grht  to 

The 

;s,  not 

■ed  any 

penin- 
lition  of 
it  tliey 

stream 

on  this 
nghsh 
bayo- 
without 

st  with 

d  with 


i 


CH£LSEA. 


339 


had  probably  prevented  their  receiving  proper  supplici  of 
ammuiMtion." 

The  number  of  British  Iroops  cngrajved  in  this  action 
was  about  3000,  and  their  loss  in  killed  and  wound(!d  was 
1050.  The  American  force  has  been  variously  stated 
from  150'J  to  4000  ;  and  their  loss,  in  killed,  wounded 
and  missing,  amounted  to  450.  General  Warren  w^as 
among  the  number  of  the  slain,  and  a  handsome  monu- 
ment now  marks  the  spot  where  he  fell. 

The  corner  stone  of  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  on 
Breed's  Hill,  was  laid  on  the  15th  -»f  June,  1825:  on 
which  occasion  the  Marquis  Lafayette  was  present.  The 
depth,  however,  proving  insufficient,  the  foundation  was 
subsequently  relaid ;  and  the  work  has  since  progressed 
about  80  feet  from  the  foundation.  The  Quincy  granite 
is  used  for  its  structure.  Its  base  is  50  feet  in  diameter, 
and  its  height  is  to  be  220  feet. 

Chelsea  is  situated  about  3  miles  northeast  of  Boston, 
at  the  mouth  of  Mystic  river.  The  surface  of  the  town 
is  broken  into  several  beautiful  eminences,  the  highest  of 
which  is  Richmond  Hill,  known  in  the  period  of  the  rev. 
olution  as  Powder  House  Hill ;  its  height  is  220  feet 
above  the  sea.  Mount  Bcllingham  is  another  eminence 
of  gradual  slope;  it  is  bid  out  into  streets,  and  affords 
delightful  building  lots  over  its  whole  surface.  Chelsea 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  the  vicinity  of  Bos- 
ton ;  and  is  now  the  only  one  which  remains  connected 
with  the  city  to  form  the  county  of  Suffolk.  The  princi- 
pal communication  with  the'  city  is  by  the  Chelsea  bridge, 
through  Charlestown,  and  by  the  Winnissimmot  ferry, 
which  usually  has  three  steam  boats  constantly  plying. 


1 

r 

V 

' '-'    a 

.^' 


..ft-; 


^ 


340 


NAHANT. 


1 

i 

1^  ■ 

>)' 

lii" 

'('-,' 

H'-\ 

i 

m. 

I'i 

m 


i 


At  the  ferry  landing,  Winnissimmet  village  is  the  most 
thickly  settled  part  of  the  town.  Here  are  situated  the 
U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  and  the  U.  S.  Navy  Hospital. 
Chelsea  Beaojj  is  a  great  attraction  to  strangers  during 
the  summer  season. 

Fort  Independence  is  situated  on  an  island  at  the 
outlet  of  Boston  harbor,  3  miles  distant ;  opposite  to 
VJ^hich  is  Governor's  Island,  containing  a  fort  erected  dur- 
ing  the  late  war.  These  two  forts  command  the  en- 
trance  into  the  harbor  of  Boston.  Seven  or  eight  miles 
below  is  the  light  house,  at  the  north-east  extremity  of 
the  channel,  where  vessels  enter  the  Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is  a  peninsula  running  three  or  four  miles  into  the  sea, 
and  is  situated  fifteen  miles  northeasterly  from  Boston. 
It  is  approached  from  the  town  of  Lynn  over  a  beautiful 
beach  of  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  At  the  extremity 
of  this  beach  commences  the  peninsula,  which  is  about 
2  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  parts  half  a  mile  broad, 
although  its  sliores  arc  extremely  irregular,  and  indented 
with  small  bays  worn  into  the  rocks  by  the  unceasing  ac- 
tion of  the  waves. 

The  surface  is  uneven,  rising  in  some  places  to  the  ele- 
vation of  60  or  70  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
shore  is  very  bold,  and  presents,  on  all  sides,  a  grand  em- 
bankment of  broken  massy  rocks.  At  several  points 
these  rt^cks  are  worn  into  fantastic  shapes,  and  at  the 
time  of  high  tide,  or  a  swell  of  the  sea,  the  roar  and  foam 
of  the  waters  among  them  presents  a  most  interesting 
spectacle,  which  is  contemplated  by  the  quiet  observer, 


Beate( 
The  \ 
east,  s 
in  thei 
power^ 
can  ha 
ed  the 
may  be 
the  eye 
down  t 
the  indi 
Besid 
variety  ( 
seen   th( 
Marbleh 
shore  as 
Charlest( 
of  Dorcl 
the  light- 
forming 
beauty  oi 
The  p( 
other  hea 
est  islanc 
the  neare 
the  north 
connectec 
wide.     TJ 


.1: 


most 
d  the 
spital. 
during 

at  the 

site  to 
ed  dur- 
the  en- 
it  miles 


I  the  sea, 
I  Boston. 


NAHANT. 


341 


seated  on  the  summit  above,  with  awe  and  admiration. 
The  whole  expanse  of  the  ocean  spreads  out  toT  ards  the 
east,  and  after  a  storm,  the  rolling  waves  come  pouring 
in  their  immense  burden  upon  these  rocks,  with  such  a 
power,  sublimity  and  uproar  of  contending  elements,  as 
can  hardly  be  conceived  by  any  one  who  has  not  witness- 
ed the  scene.  And  again,  when  the  sea  is  tranquil,  it 
may  bo  seen  covered  with  shipping  of  all  sizes,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  extend,  moving  in  different  directions  up  and 
down  the  coast,  and  exhibiting  an  animating  picture  of 
the  industry  and  activity  of  commerce. 

Besides  a  view  of  the  ocean,  Nahant  presents  a  great 
variety  of  other  interesting  prospects.  On  one  side  is 
seen  the  village  of  Lynn,  Swanscut,  PhiUips'  Beach, 
Marblehead,  Egg  Rock,  Baker's  Island,  and  the  north 
shore  as  far  as  the  highland  of  Cape  Ann;  on  the  other, 
Charlestown,  Boston,  the  islands  in  Boston  harbor,  part 
of  Dorchester,  Braintree,  Nantucket  and  Scituate,  with 
the  light-houses  of  Boston,  Scituate  and  Baker's  Island, 
forming  together  a  panorama  hardly  to  be  equalled  in 
beauty  or  variety. 

The  peninsula  extends  farther  into  the  sea  than  any 
other  head  land  in  the  bay.  It  is  distant  from  the  near- 
est island  in  Boston  harbor,  to  the  south,  7  miles — from 
the  nearest  point  of  the  south  shore,  about  12  miles — from 
the  north  shore  between  2  and  3  miles.  It  is  on  this  side 
connected  with  the  main  land  by  a  beach  a  few  rods 
wide.  Thus  insulated  and  surrounded  by  water,  Nahant 
enjoys  a  climate  and  temperature  very  cool,  and,  com- 
paratively, very  equable — a  circumstance  of  much  im- 
portance to  the  invalid,  and  which  will  determine  the 


i 


iMfl 

■■:•  f.  '^ 

i'f  « 

■■44- »i 


I' 


ifil! 


'Mm 


I 


saniiu 


342 


NAHANT. 


choice  of  a  great  portion  of  those  who  annually  leave  the 
city  for  the  purpose  of  health  or  amusement. 

A  spacious  and  elegant  Hotel  stands  near  the  extremity 
of  the  peninsula,  in  a  very  commanding  and  pleasant  yit- 
uation.  It  is  surrounded  by  piazzas,  which  afford  a  most 
delightful  prospect  in  every  direction,  and  receive  the 
cool  and  refreshing  breezes  every  part  of  the  day.  In  a 
sma  "illr  ,  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  from  the  Hotel,  arc  sev- 
eral p'  ; '  ^'oarding  houses,  for  invalids  and  those  who 
seek  Yk  .!;it<it  Numerous  cottages,  too,  have  been 
erected  by  seveiai  individuals  for  the  purpose  of  affording 
more  extensive  and  elegant  accommodations  to  those  who 
may  pass  the  summer  in  this  delightful  place  of  residence. 

Nahant  has  many  amusements.  Angling  with  the  rod 
may  be  enjoyed  as  a  pleasant  recreation,  standing  on  the 
rocks  ;  and  those  who  would  try  their  skill  in  decoying 
larger  prey,  .lay  go  out  in  boats,  which  are  always  in 
readiness,  and  furnished  with  suitable  apparatus.  Game, 
too,  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity.  But  there  are  few 
amusements  or  pleasures  superior  to  that  of  riding,  at 
suitable  hours  of  the  day,  on  the  beach. 

On  the  whole,  the  proximity  of  Nahant  to  Boston — its 
facility  of  access — the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its  scene- 
ry— and  above  all,  the  singular  local  advantages  it  affords 
for  invigorating  the  constitution,  the  salubrity  and  bracinof 
tone  of  its  atmosphere,  and  the  excellent  accommodations 
it  offers  to  visitors — will  always  make  it  a  place  of  exten- 
sive resort  during  the  summer  months. 


of  the 
dred  si 
part  of 


FORTS  AROUND    BOSTON. 


343 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON,  ERECTED  DURING    THE  REVOLUTION. 

The  fortifications  vvliicli  were  thrown  up  around  Boa- 
ton,  which  held  a  British  army  besieged  during  eleven 
months  of  the  revolution,  and  which  linally  compelled 
them  to  carry  tlieir  arms  and  warfare  into  other  lands, 
will  always  be  regarded  as  objects  of  interest  by  every 
stranger  visiting  that  section  of  country.  Many  of  these 
works  are  still  in  fine  preservation,  while  others  have  be- 
come defaced  by  the  hand  of  time,  or  have  been  removed 
to  give  place  to  modern  improvements.  The  follov  '  g 
description  of  those  remaining  is  extracted  from  ^..lli 
man's  Journal,  and  will  prove  a  guide  to  strangers  u.  ie- 
termininor  their  localities. 

At  Breed\s  Hill^  that  blood-stained  field,  the  -edoubt 
thrown  up  by  the  Americans  is  nearly  effaced  ;  l  ...  cely 
the  slightest  trace  of  it  remains  ;  but  the  entrenchment, 
which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the  marsh,  is  still 
marked  by  a  slight  elevation  of  the  ground.  The  redoubt 
thrown  up  by  the  British  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  may 
be  easily  distinguished. 

Bunker  Hill. — The  remains  of  the  British  fort  are  visi- 
ble  ;  the  works  must  have  been  very  strong,  and  occu- 
pied  a  large  extent  of  ground — they  are  on  the  summit 
and  slope  of  the  hill  looking  towards  the  peninsula. 

Ploughed  Hill. — The  works  npon  this  hill  were  com- 
menced  by  the  Americans  on  the  night  of  August  26th, 
1775,  and  received  more  fire  from  the  British  than  any 
of  the  ctther  forts  ;  in  a  few  days,  more  than  three  hun- 
dred shells  were  fired  at  these  fortifications.  A  small 
part  of  the  rampart  remains,  but  the  whole  hill  is  sur- 

EB 


f 

i 


■0m 
■  '■  li 


i  \ 
■■  Mm 


'■* 


U 


\[  ■•  \ 


''^'^ 


i1 


0'.'    Ai 


344 


FORTS  AROUND  noSTON. 


rounded  by  the  monndB  and  fosse  of  the  ancient  fort, 
whicli  has  been  nearly  obliterated. 

Cobble  or  Barrel's  Hill  was  fortified,  and  occupied  as 
a  strong  post,  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  by  General 
Putnam,  and,  in  consequence  of  its  Ftrcngth,  was  called 
Putnam's  impregnable  fortress.  It  was  commenced  on 
the  night  of  November  22d  ;  and  the  activity  of  its  fire  is 
well  known  to  those  who  have  studied  the  details  of  the 
siege  of  Boston.  This  fort  has  been  destroyed  ;  but  the 
position  is  easily  identified. 

Lpchmere  Point  Redoubt^  one  hundred  yards  from 
West  Boston  bridge,  displays  more  science  in  its  con. 
struction,  and  has  a  wider  and  deeper  fosse  than  most  of 
the  other  fortifications.  It  was  commenced  on  Dec. 
11th,  1775,  and  it  was  several  days  before  it  was  com- 
pleted, during  which  time  it  was  much  exposed  to  the 
fire  of  the  English  in  Boston.  Two  or  three  S"ldiers  of 
the  revolutionary  army  were  killed  at  this  redoubt,  and 
the  Prunus  Virginiana,  with  its  red  berries,  marks  the 
spot  where  they  were  probably  interred.  Upon  one  an. 
glc  of  the  fort,  where  the  cannon  were  point" d  with  most 
destructive  effect,  a  church  is  now  erected. 

A  causeway  mnde  acrocs  tiie  marsh,  the  covered  way 
whifh  crosses  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  the  lines  which 
flanked  Willis'  creek,  are  still  perfect,  and  may  be  traced 
with  great  facility. 

Winter  Hill  Fort  appears  to  have  been  the  most  ex. 
tensive,  and  the  entrenchments  more  numerous,  than 
any  of  the  other  positions  of  the  American  army.  The 
fort  on  the  hill  is  almost  entirely  destroyed  ;  only  a  small 
part  of  the  rampart  siill  remains  perfect. 


A 

marci 

as  art 

A 

hills,  ] 

has  be 

issued 

at  Wh 

post  in 

quartci 

redoubi 

Pros 

strongh 

about  t 

namenti 

who  feci 

gratified 

hills  wei 

can  be 

of  the  fo 

hill  is  di 

dent  mai 

sive  view 

parts,  an 

^'j^  Am' 

-:>^<K  a  f: 


appear  to 
by  a  str 
these  forti 
angles  de 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


345 


t  foTt, 

lied  as 
rcncral 
called 
ccd  on 
s  fire  is 
<  of  the 
but  the 

Is  from 

its  con. 

most  of 
on  Dec. 
vas  com* 
'd  to  the 

hiicrs  of 

lubt,  and 

,arks  the 

one  an. 

ith  most 

[cred  way 

!8   which 
Ibe  traced 

most  ex. 
|ouj',  than 

,y.  The 
|ly  a  small 


A  redoubt  situated  upon  Ten  Hill  Farm,  which  com- 
mar  ded  the  navigation  of  the  Mystic  river,  is  complete, 
as  arc  also  some  slight  entrcncliments  near. 

A  redoubt,  situated  between  Winter  and  Prospect 
hills,  has  been  completely  carried  away,  and  a  quarry 
has  been  opened  on  the  spot.  In  the  general  orders, 
issued  at  Cambridge,  guards  were  directed  to  be  stationed 
at  White  House  Redoubt,  and  this  it  is  believed  was  the 
post  intended.  General  Lee  is  said  to  have  had  his  head 
quarters  in  a  farm  house  immediately  in  the  rear  of  this 
redoubt. 

Prospect  Hill  has  two  eminences,  both  of  which  were 
strongly  fortified,  and  connected  by  a  rampart  and  fosse  ; 
about  two  hundred  yards  are  quite  entire  ;  they  are  or- 
namented with  the  aster,  solidago,  rosa,  «fcc. ;  and  those 
who  feel  any  curiosity  about  these  lines,  will  be  much 
gratified  by  the  view  here  afforded.  The  forts  on  the.ie 
hills  were  destroyed  only  a  few  years  ago,  but  their  size 
can  be  distinctly  seen.  On  the  southern  eminence  a  part 
of  the  fort  is  still  entire,  and  the  south-west  face  of  the 
hill  is  divided  into  several  platforms.  There  are  also  evi- 
dent marks  of  the  dwellings  of  the  soldiers.  The  exten- 
sive view  from  this  hill,  the  walk  on  the  ancient  ram- 
parts, and  the  sight  of  the  various  stations  occnt>ied  for 
th^  ,\m'?ric:n  T'm'-',  wl'I  rer^!'"**  ^''.5  ^^r'Ot,  aL  ;i  ^niijrc  re- 
':?(!,  a  favi'^rit'"  T'-'ort, 

The  Camhil^^e  Liufi,  situat^'J  u>'on  T^ltler'^  Hi'!, 
appear  to  have  consisted  of  six  regular  forts,  connected 
by  a  strong  entrenchment.  The  most  northerly  of 
these  forts  is  perfect.  With  the  exception  of  one  of  its 
angles  destroyed  by  the  road,  it  appears  as  if  just  quit- 


''  I 


I    ; 


,:■* 


346 


FORTS  AROUND  BOStON. 


|! 

I'll 


if- 


ted  by  the  army  of  America  ;  its  bastions  arc  entire, 
the  outline  is  perfect,  and  it  seems  a  chief  d'cEUvre  of  tho 
military  art. 

A  square  fort  may  be  neen  near  the  southern  extremity 
of  these  lines,  in  fine  preservation  ;  it  is  in  a  field  within 
two  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  Cambridge.  The  east, 
em  rampart  is  lower  than  the  others,  and  the  gateway 
with  its  bank  of  earth  still  remains. 

The  Second  Line  of  Defence  may  be  traced  on  the 
college  green  at  Cambridge,  but  its  proximity  to  the  pub. 
lie  halls  may  have  produced  some  inconvenience,  and 
it  has  been  carefully  destroyed. 

A  semicircular  battery,  with  three  embrasures,  on  the 
northern  shore  of  Charles  river,  near  its  entrance  into 
the  bay,  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation.  It  is  rath- 
er  above  the  level  of  the  marsh,  and  those  who  would 
wish  to  see  it,  should  pass  on  the  road  to  Cambridge  until 
they  arrive  at  a  cross  road  which  leads  to  the  bank  of  the 
river  ;  by  following  the  course  of  the  stream,  they  may 
arrive  at  this  battery  without  crossing  the  marsh,  which 
is  its  northern  boundary,  and  difficult  to  pass. 

Brookline  Fortj  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  annals  of  the 
revolution,  the  fort  on  Sewell's  Point,  was  very  exten- 
sive, and  would  still  be  perfect,  were  it  not  for  the  road 
which  divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  With 
this  exception,  the  rampart  and  an  irregular  bastion, 
which  commanded  the  entrance  of  Chsrles  river,  are 
entire.  The  fort  was  nearly  quadrangular,  and  the  forti- 
fications stronger  than  many  of  the  other  positions  of  the 
American  army. 


A 

three 

Fl 
pears 
tion 
ninsu 
troop! 
the  in 
the  hi 
the  ea 
catiuri 
may  s 
fired  L 
On 
quadra 
ing  pel 
was   c 
and  e; 
stationi 
The 
advane 
town,  I 
suia,  ar 
nearest 
Attl 
ish   fori 
may  be 
the  isth 
stores, 
trenchii 
the  fo8£ 


FORTS  AROUND  OOSTON. 


317 


Dntire, 
of  Iho 

rcmity 

within 

ic  cast. 

atcway 

on  the 
the  pub. 
cc,  and 

,  on  the 
ncc  into 
t  is  rath- 
lo  would 
dgc  until 
nk  of  the 
hey  may 
)h,  which 


A  battery^  on  the  southern  shore  of  IVIuddy  river,  with 
three  cmbrasurcp,  is  only  sligiitly  injured. 

Forts  at  Rnxburij. — The  lower  fort  at  Roxb  iry  ap. 
pears  to  have  been  the  earliest  erected,  and  by  its  eleva- 
tion commanded  the  a/enuc  to  Boston  over  the  pc- 
ninsula,  and  prevented  tho  advance  of  the  En^lis^h 
troops  in  that  direction.  It  is  of  the  most  irregular  form, 
the  interior  occupies  about  two  acres  of  ground,  and  as 
the  hill  is  bare  of  soil,  the  places  may  still  be  seen  whence 
the  earlh  was  taken  to  form  the  rampartfj.  This  fortifi- 
cation has  not  been  at  all  injured,  and  the  embrasures 
may  still  be  noticed  where  the  cannon  were  placed  which 
fired  upon  the  advanced  lines  of  the  enemy. 

On  a  higlier  eminence  of  the  same  hill  is  situated  a 
quadrangular  fort,  built  on  the  summit  of  a  rock,  and  be- 
ing  perhaps  their  first  attempt  at  regular  fortification,  it 
was  considered  by  the  militia  of  unparalleled  stren'rth, 
and  excited  great  confidence  in  that  wing  of  the  army 
stationed  at  Roxbury. 

The  Roxbury  Lines,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
advance  of  the  forts,  and  two  hundred  yards  north  o^  tho 
town,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  penin- 
sula, and  may  be  distinguished  by  any  person  going  the 
nearest  road  to  Dorchester,  over  Lamb's  dam. 

At  this  period  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  the  Brit- 
ish fortificati  ms.  The  lines  situated  upon  the  Neck 
may  be  seen  to  great  advantage  on  the  western  side  of 
the  isthmus,  abont  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  green 
stores.  There  appear  to  have  been  two  lines  of  en- 
trenchments carried  quite  across  the  peninsula,  and 
the  fosse,  which  was  filled  at  high  water,  converted 

££2 


-4*' 


m 


Hi'  %l\ 


?  !  f'V 


i/i; 


\f:. 


348 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


Boston  into  an  island.  The  mounds,  ramparts  and 
wide  ditches  which  remain,  attest  the  strength  of  the 
original  works.  The  small  battery  on  the  common,  erec- 
ted by  the  British,  may  perhaps  remain  for  a  long  period 
of  years,  as  a  memorial  of  ancient  times. 

The  Dorchester  Lines, — Of  these  some  very  slight  tra- 
ces may  be  distinguished. 

Forts  on  Dorchester  Heights. — We  now  hasten  to  the 
last  forts,  the  erection  of  which  terminated  the  contest 
in  this  portion  of  the  eastern  states  of  America.  It  is  to 
be  regretted  that  the  entrenchments  thrown  up  by  the 
army  of  the  revolution,  on  the  heiglits  of  Dorchester,  are 
almost  entirely  obliterated  by  the  erection  of  two  new 
forts  in  the  late  war.  But  some  traces  of  the  ancient 
works  may  be  seen  on  both  hills  ;  the  old  forts  were  con- 
structed with  more  skill  and  display  more  science  than 
the  recent  works,  the  ramparts  of  which  are  even  now 
falling  down  ;  and  we  would  gladly  sec  them  destroyed, 
if  from  their  nans  the  ancient  works  could  re-appear. 

A  noble  octagonal  fort  and  two  batteries,  which  may 
be  seen  in  perfect  preservation  upon  the  promontory, 
were  erected  after  the  departure  of  the  English  from 
Boston.  The  fort  is  situated  at  the  point  ;  one  battery 
is  in  the  rear  of  the  House  of  Industry,  whose  inmates 
will  probably  soon  destroy  it,  and  the  other  upon  a  rising 
ground  immediately  below  the  heights  of  Dorchester. 

At  Nook  Hill,  near  South  Boston  bridge,  may  be  seen 
the  last  breast-work  which  was  thrown  up  by  the  for- 
ccs  of  America  during  this  arduous  contest.  Its  appear, 
ance  on  the  mornujg  of  March  17,  1776,  induced  the 
departure  of  the  British  troops  from   Boston  in  a  few 


.'.   (■! 


(iparts  and 
igth  of  the 
Timon,  erec- 
long  period 

ry  slight  tra- 

lasten  to  the 

i  the  contest 
ica.     It  is  to 
m  up  by  the 
Drchester,  are 
of  two  new 
•  the  ancient 
3rts  were  con- 
science than 
are  even  now 
m  destroyed, 
re-appear. 
s,  which  may 
promontory, 
English  from 
;  one  battery 
hose  inmates 
upon  a  rising 
orchester. 
,  may  be  seen 
lip  by  the  for- 
It.     Its  appear, 
induced  the 
iston  in  a  few 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND. 


349 


hours,  and  thus  placed  the  seal  to  the  independence  of 
the  New-England  states.  But  those  who  would  wish  to 
see  this  entrenchment  must  visit  it  soon.  The  enemy 
have  attacked  it  on  three  sides,  and  are  proceeding  by 
sap  and  by  mine  ;  part  of  the  fosse  is  already  destroyed, 
and  the  rampart  nods  to  its  fall. 

FROM   BOSTON   TO  PORTLAND  (Me.)  128  milcS.* 

The  rail  road  and  stage  route  is  as  follows  : 


By  rail  road^ 


Miles. 
Lynn,  (Mass.)....   10 

Salem, 5  15 

Beverly, 2  17 

Rowley, 13  30 

Newbury  port, ....     3  33 
East  Kingston,  (N. 

H.) 11  44 


By  stage. 

Miles. 

Exeter, 4     48 

Portsmouth, 14     62 

York,  (Maine)  ...     9     71 

Wells, 15     96 

Kennebunk  Pt....     6  102 

Saco, 10  112 

Portland, 16  128 


The  rail  road,  which  commences  at  the  depot  of  the 
Lowell  road,  will  ultimately  be  rendered  continuous.  At 
present,  however,  it  is  completed  no  farther  than  East 
Kingston,  near  Dover,  N.  H.,  44  miles  in  extent. 

Lynn,  10  miles  from  Boston,  is  a  large  township,  with 
a  population  of  10,000.  It  contains  8  or  10  churches, 
and  many  large  manufacturing  establishments  for  ladies' 

*The  distance  by  steamboat  is  126  miles,  as  follows : 

Miles. 

Point  Shirley,  ....  4 

Nahant, 6  10 

Marblehead, 6  16 

Salem  Harbor,  ...  3  19 

Gloucester  Harbor,  8  27 

Cape  Ann, 10  37 

Newbury  Harbor,.  16  53 


Mies. 


Boar's  Head, 

7 

60 

Portsmouth  Harbor 

12 

72 

York  Harbor,  .... 

5 

77 

Kennebunk  Harb'r 

12 

89 

Fletcher's  Neck,.. 

12 

101 

Cape  Elizabetb,  . , 

13 

114 

Portland, 

10 

124 

% 


,..•1 
i'i  fit  u 


^:t  ill 
4'  ,   ^ 


!|ti:^ 


"  If 


lu.. 


350 


SALEM      NEWBURYPORT. 


shoes,  which  arc  sent  to  the  southern  states  and  the  West 
Indies.  The  Lynn  Beacli  connects  the  peninsula  of  Na- 
hant  with  the  main  land,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  in  sum- 
mer. 

Salrm,  which  is  entered  by  the  rail  road  through  a 
tunnel,  is  considered  the  second  town  in  New  England 
in  commerce,  wealth  and  population.  It  is  located  on  a 
peninsula  formed  by  two  inlets  of  the  sea,  called  North 
and  South  rivers.  On  the  opposite  side  of  North  river  is 
the  town  of  Beverly,  to  which  a  bridge  leads,  1500  feet 
in  length.  Marblchead  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  South 
river,  which  forms  the  harbor,  defended  by  two  forts. 
Salem  contains  a  court  hou;e,  3  banks,  an  alheneum,  a 
museum,  an  orpiian  asylum,  and  13  churches.  The 
Square^  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a  beautiful  tract 
of  ground,  and  is  surrounded  by  numerous  elegant  pri- 
vate  dwellings. 

Salem  was  settled  as  early  as  1G26,  Its  Indian  name 
was  Naumkeag.  In  1692,  and  for  some  time  afterwards, 
several  of  its  inhabitants  became  a  prey  to  the  greatest 
credulity  and  bigotry.  Its  prison  was  crowded  with  per- 
sons accused  of  witchcraft,  many  of  whom  paid  their  life 
as  a  forfeit  for  their  supposed  crimes.  The  present  pop- 
ulation of  the  town  is  from  12  to  15,000. 

Newburyport  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  three  miles  from  its  mouth, 
rising  on  a  gradual  acclivity  from  the  ^\ater.  The  streets 
arc  wide,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles ;  and 
many  of  the  houses  are  elegant.  The  court  house, 
standing  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  principal  streets  lead- 


EXETER — PORTSMOUTH. 


351 


ing  from  the  river,  adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  place. 
The  village  contains  2  banks,  7  churches,  and  7000  in- 
habitants, and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade  ;  though  it 
suffered  much  during  the  restrictive  system,  previous  to 
the  late  war. 

Exeter  is  handsomely  located  at  the  head  of  tide  wa- 
ter, on  the  Exeter  river,  which  is  r  avigablc  for  vessels  of 
500  tons  burthen.  The  village  exhibits  considerable  en- 
terprise, and  is  the  locality  of  several  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments.  The  academy  at  this  place  is  one  of  the 
most  opulent  and  extensive  in  the  Union. 

Portsmouth  is  the  largest  town  and  only  seaport  in 
New-Hampshire.  It  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Piscataqua  river,  2  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  town  con- 
tains 5  banks,  an  atheneum,  an  asylum  for  females,  an 
alms  house,  c".  ♦om  house  and  7  churches.  A  bridge, 
2371  feet  long,  osses  the  river  at  this  place  to  Kittery, 
Me.,  on  the  opposite  side.  On  an  island  between  the 
two  places,  is  a  navy  yard.  The  town  is  handsome  in  its 
appearance,  is  a  place  oi  considerable  trade,  and  contains 
a  population  of  about  8000. 

In  1695  this  place  v/as  assaulted  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
and  14  of  its  inhabitants  killed,  I  scalped,  who  recovered, 
and  4  taken  prisoners.  After  burning  several  houses,  the 
Indians  retreated  through  what  is  called  the  great  sinamp. 
They  were,  however,  oveitaken  the  next  morning  by  a 
company  of  militia,  dirpersed,  and  the  prisoners  retaken. 

After  leaving  Portsmouth,  the  villages  of  York,  Welles, 
Kennebunk  and  Saco,  are  successively  passed  before 
reaching  Portland  ;  affording  Tery  little  to  interest,  if  w« 


H' 


m 


"m 


^' .  I 


352 


PORTLAND. 


except  an  old  fort  about  three  miles  and  n  half  iiortiieaaT 
of  Welles,  and  the  falls  at  Saco,  on  the  mer  of  thot 
name,  which  rises  in  the  White  Mountains  of  New- 
Hampshire.  These  falls  arc  about  30  feet,  and  afford  fa- 
cilities for  extensive  manufacturing  operations. 

Portland,  the  capital  of  Maine,  and  a  port  of  entry, 
is  a  beautiful  town,  located  on  a  peninsula  projecting-  into 
Casco  bay.  This  peninsula  has  two  prominences,  on 
one  of  wh.ch  stands  several  elegant  dwelling"  houses, 
and  on  the  other  an  observatory.  The  harbor  is  safe, 
well  defended,  and  has  a  light-house  at  its  enl ranee. 
Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  town  arc  an  elegant 
court  house,  a  jail,  custom  house,  2  banks,  an  academy, 
atheneum,  and  10  churches.  Population  about  K5,000. 
From  the  observatory,  an  extensive  prospect  is  had  of  the 
ocean  and  of  the  country  at  the  northwest,  terminated 
by  the  White  Mountains.  On  Bang's  and  House  Islands, 
at  the  entiance  of  the  harbor,  are  Forts  Preble  and 
Scammel.  At  the  east,  'S'2  miles  distant,  is  seen  the 
light-house  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  river,  with  a 
great  variety  of  islanJ"  ;  it,  rvening.  West  of  the  ob- 
servatory, is  FortSumn.  r.o..  a  hill,  with  several  intrench- 
ments  made  during  the  revolutionarv  war. 

Portland  (then  called  Falmouth)  was  nearly  laid  in 
ruins  in  Oclo!)cr,  177.3.  The  in'nbitan^s  were  required 
by  Capt.  Mowatf,  i.'f  •h..  B;  *>u  rioar.  ■'.  \v-»r  Cruioeiin, 
to  surrender  their  arms  ;  and  on  a  refusal,  he  comuicuccJ 
a  bombardment  of  the  town^  which  lasted  nine  hours, 
resulting  in  a  destruction  of  130  houses,  three. fourths  of 
'he  whole  number. 


f 
•*•., 


ortbeaat 

of  Ncw- 
ifford  la- 

of  entry, 
J  ting  into 
snccs,  on 
r  houses, 
ir  is  safe, 
entrance. 
,n  elegant 
academy, 
at   15,000. 
had  of  the 
:err:iinated 
se  Islands, 
•reble   and 
seen  the 
or,  with  a 
of  the  ob- 
,1  intrench- 

Irly  laid  in 

k  required 

|ornin«i»eed 

line  hours, 

.fourths  of 


PORTLAND   TO    EASTPOPT. 


35- 


Stag-cs  leave  Portland  daily  for  the  White  ^fountains, 
in  New  Hampshire,  {see  pp.  312  to  319)  passing  through 
Wcstbrook,  Gorhani,  Standish,  Baldwin,  Hiram,  Browns- 
field  and  Frycburgh  to  Conway,  which  they  reach  at 
evening.  Distance  62  miles — fare  ^3.  From  Conway, 
stages  pass  through  Bartlctt,  Hart's  Location,  over  the 
Avalanches  at  the  Notcli  of  the  White  Mountains,  thro' 
Njtsh  nnd  Swain's  Location,  Bi'itton  Woods  and  Bethle- 
hem, to  Littleton,  on  the  Connecticut  river.  Distance 
48  miles — fare  ^3.  [Littleton  is  17  miles  below  Lancas- 
ter, 100  miles  north  of  Concord,  N.  H  ,  and  is  located  at 
the  mouth  and  falls  of  the  Amanoosuc  river.    See  p  312.] 

FROM  PORTLAND  TO  EASTPORT — 231  mileS. 


Miles. 

Castine  (by  water)  9  118 

Bkiehill 10  128 

Elsworlh, 14  142 

Franklin, 12  154 

Chcrryfieid, 20  174 

Coluinbia, 12  186 

Machias, 15  201 

Whiting, 15  216 

Eastport, 15  231 


Miles. 

North  Yarmouth,.  12 

Freej)ort, 6     IH 

Brunswick, 9     27 

Bath, 7     34 

Wiscasset, 15     49 

Waldoboro', 18     67 

Warren, 9     76 

Thomaston, 4     80 

Camden 11     91 

Belfast, 18  109 

The  route  is  near  the  coast,  and  embraces  an  exter  of 
highly  interesting  and  romantic  country. 

North  Yarmouth,  12  miles  north  of  Pi)rtland,  is  lo- 
cated on  Casco  Bay,  about  35  miles  from  the  occ.in,  and 
is  a  village  of  some  magnitude,  containing  4  churches, 
an  academy,  and  about  4000  inhabitants.  The  bay  af- 
fords fine  anchorage  for  vessels,  and  the  surrounding 
country  is  piclurcsque  and  interesting. 


M  !' 


r  X. 


^«  ill 


■)     ■■.  ; 


I  1,, 


:^ir^  '■ 


354 


FREEPORT— WALDOBORO*.. 


'^m^' 


'm.i 


Freeport,  6  miles  farther,  is  at  the  head  of  Casco  bay, 
and  contains  a  population  of  about  HbOO  inhabitants, 

Brunswick,  9  miles.  The  villagre,  which  is  peculiarly 
pleasant,  is  situated  on  the  southwest  bank  of  the  An- 
droscog^gin  river,  at  the  falls,  which  furnish  valuable  seats 
for  mills  and  manufactories.  Bowdoin  College^  at  this 
place,  is  located  on  an  elevated  and  beautiful  plain,  enjoy- 
ing a  rich  and  diversified  view  of  the  river  and  surround- 
ing country.  The  college  originally  received  a  donation 
of  ^10,000  from  the  late  James  D.  Bowdoin,  Esq.,  and 
five  townships  of  land  from  the  state.  It  also  receives 
$3000  annually  from  the  latter.  From  130  to  150  stu- 
dents  arc  yearly  educated  at  this  institution. 

Bath,  7  miles  farther,  is  a  port  of  entry,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Kennebec  river,  15  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide,  and  the  town  is  built  on  an 
acclivity  for  a  mile  and  a  iialf  in  extent,  and  assames  a 
very  handsome  appearance  from  the  water.  It  is  a  place 
of  extensive  business,  and  contains  two  banks,  an  acade- 
my,  5  churches,  and  a  population  of  nearly  5000  inhabi- 
tants. 

WiscAssET,  15  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry,  located  on  the 
west  side  of  Sheepscot  river,  with  an  excellent  harbor. 
Tiiu  place  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  bank,  insurance 
office,  ynd  some  other  public  buildings,  and  a  population 
of  about  2500. 

Waldo noRo',  IS  miles,  is  a  poU  of  entry,  and  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  containing  a  population  of  about 
3000  inhabitants. 


■m^t' 


!asco  bay, 

tanta. 

pccnliarly 
)f  the  An- 
uable  seats 
o-e,  at  this 
lain,  enjoy- 
d  surround- 

a  donation 
,  Esq.,  and 
ilso  receives 

to  150  stu- 

on  the  west 

L  its  mouth. 

IS  built  on  an 

d  ass:imes  a 

It  is  a  place 

s,  an  acade^ 

5000  inhabi- 

l>cated  on  the 
pUent  harbor. 
[k,  insurance 
a  population 

L  and  a  place 
It  ion  of  about 


fl7ARREN--H:ASTZNB. 


35^ 


Wareen,  9  miles,  is  located  on  St.  Georgc*s  river, 
which  is  navigable  to  this  place  for  sloops. 

Thomaston,  4  miles,  is  a  place  of  extcn^nve  business, 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  Penobscot  bay,  and  on  St. 
George's  river,  12  miles  from  its  moutli.  Th^  state  prison 
of  Maine  is  at  this  place,  and  is  in  a  lot  of  10  acres,  en- 
closed by  a  solid  wall,  within  which  is  an  extensive  quar- 
ry  of  limestone.  There  are  also  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
town  inexhaustible  quarries  of  lime  and  ni.iible, of  which, 
large  quantities  are  annually  exported-  The  village  con- 
tains a  bank,  and  a  population  of  about  3000  inhabitants. 
About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  the  ancient  residence  of 
the  late  Gen.  Knox,  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

Camden,  11  miles,  and  Lincolnville,  7  miles  farther, 
are  both  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Penobscot  bay. 

Belfast,  11  miles  from  Lincolnville,  is  on  the  same 
Side  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  flourishing  village. 

Gastine,  9  miles,  is  situated  on  a  promontory,  near  the 
head  ot  the  east  side  of  Fenobacot  bay.  with  a  beautiful 
harbor  Btretchmg  out  before  the  town.  Castine  can  be 
easily  defended  Jrom  assauU  ;  as  the  narrowness  of  the 
isthmus  whicii  connects  it  with  the  main  land  could  be 
insulated  with  comparatively  a  small  expense  ;  added  to 
which,  strong  batteries  would  enable  it  to  resist  any  force 
which  would  probably  be  brought  against  it-  This  would 
be  the  more  important  in  time  of  war,  as  an  enemy  in 
possession  of  the  place  would  have  command  of  the  in- 
termediate country  from  Penobscot  to  St.  Croix.  The 
place  was  taken  daring  the  last  war,  and  the  British  en- 
trenchments on  a  hill  above  the  town,  are  atill  visible, 

IF 


I'* 


1  u. 


n 


m  1 

m 


356 


MAPHIAS — ROniNSTOWN. 


Blue  Hill,  Elsworth,  Franklin,  Cherryfield  and  Colum- 
bia arc  successively  passed  in  travelling  from  Caatinc  to 

Machias,  a  port  of  entry,  and  capital  of  Washington 
county.  Me.  The  town  contains  two  villajres — one  situ- 
ated  at  the  falls  of  the  east  branch  of  the  Machias  river, 
and  the  other  at  the  falls  of  the  west  branch  of  the  same 
stream.  Between  the  two  villages,  a  bridge  is  trected 
across  Middle  river,  which,  with  the  causeway,  is  1900 
feet  lorg.  Machias  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  four 
churches,  a  very  flourishing  academy,  and  is  a  thriving 
pla3e. 

Eastport  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Moose  island,  in  Pas- 
samaquoddy  bay.  The  island  is  4  miles  long,  with  a 
bold  shore,  the  tide  ordinarily  rising  here  25  feet.  The 
town  is  principally  built  on  the  southern  part  of  the  is- 
land, and  contains  a  bank,  4  churches,  and  about  3000 
inhabitants.  There  are  also  fortifications  in  the  vicinity, 
which  were  constructed  dur,:  ;;  the  last  war.  The  view 
hvin  the  heights  on  the  island  is  very  extensive  and  ro- 
mantic, taking  in  the  bay  with  its  numerous  islands  and 
the  adjacent  coast.  Between  Eastport  and  the  tow^n  of 
Perry,  on  the  main  land,  a  bridge  has  been  constructed 
rising  of  1200  feet  long.  A  line  of  steam  boats  is  estab- 
lished between  this  place  and  Boston,  touching  at  Port- 
land, so  that  travellers  can  take  either  a  water  or  a  land 
route  to  that  city. 

RoBiMSTOWN,  13  miles  north-west  of  Eastport,  located 
at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  river  at  its  entrance  into 
the  Passarnaquoddy  bay,  is  on  the  boundary  line  between 
the  United  States  and  the  British  Province  of  New-Bruns- 
wick,  and  is  opposite  St.  Andrew?. 


■♦W" 


PORTLAND  TO  QUI^BEC. 


357 


id  Colum- 
Jastinc  to 

(^ashinplon 
— one  situ- 
chias  river, 
)f  the  same 
;  is  erected 
ay,  is  1900 
D,  jail,  four 
9  a  thriving 

and,  in  Pas- 
ong,  with  a 
)  feet.     The 
irt  of  the  is- 
1  about  3000 
the  vicinity, 
,    The  vievy 
isive  and  ro- 
s  islands  and 
1  the  town  of 
constructed 
oats  is  estab- 
Ihing  at  Port- 
iter  or  a  land 

tport,  located 
lentrance  into 
line  between 
If  New-Bruns- 


FROM  ponTLAXD  TO  QUEBEC — 258  miles. 

Tlio  road  from  Portland  to  Quebec  is  principally  over 
the  route  pursued  by  Gen.  Arnold  atwl  liis  Iroopa  in  1775, 
previous  to  the  assault  of  that  place  Jy  Gen.  Mojitgom- 
cry.     The  intermediate  distances  arc  as  follow  ; 


Miles, 
Norrigdework, ....   16     91 

Solon, 'A)  in 

Moscow, 13  124 

Ferry   over   Kene- 

bee  river, 17  141 

Monumet, 4H  1F9 

St.  Joseph, 54  243 

St.  Henry, 28  271 

Quebec, 12  283 


Miles. 

North  Yarmouth,  .  12 

Frecport, 6  18 

Brunswick, 9  27 

Bowdoinham,  ....  13  40 

Gardner, 11  51 

Hallov.ell, 4  55 

Augusta, 3  58 

Sidney, 12  70 

WaterviUe, 5  75 

North  Yarmouth,  Freeport,  Brunswick  and  Bath  have 
already  been  noticed. 

Hallowell,  55  miles  fn)m  Portland,  is  a  very  flour- 
ishing village,  on  the  Kennebec  river,  at  the  head  of 
tide  water.  It  contains  an  academy,  a  bank,  tlirce 
cburches,  between  2  and  300  dwelling  houses,  some  of 
which  are  very  elegant,  and  about  31)00  inhabitants. 
Granite  is  here  obtamcd,  which  is  considered  equal  to  any 
ever  discovered  in  the  Union.  Vessels  of  150  tons  bur- 
then ascend  the  river  as  far  as  this  place. 

Augusta,  3  miles,  is  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
state,  and  is  located  on  both  sides  of  the  Kennebec  riv- 
er, over  which  is  a  substantial  bridge.  A  part  of  the  vil- 
lage is  on  a  very  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  and  a 
part  of  it  on  its  banks.  Many  of  the  dwellings  exhibit 
much   taste  and  elegance   in  their  structure,  and  iue 


|if 


JLii 


.      V 


t  HV 


358 


WATKRVIL1.E — NORRIDGEWORK. 


whole  appearance  of  the  place  is  peculiarly  inviting  and 
pleasant. 

The  State  House^  located  here,  is  an  ornament 
to  the  town,  and  highly  creditable  to  the  munificence 
of  the  state. 

SiDNKY,  12  miles  farther,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the 
Keimcbec  river. 

Waterville,  5  miles,  on  the  same  river,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  magnitude,  containing  a  bank.  At  Tecon- 
ick  Falls  in  this  town,  at  the  head  of  boat  navigation, 
there  are  several  manufactories,  and  a  flourishing  village 
is  springing  up.  Watenvlle  Cnllcffe,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Baptist  denomination,  is  located  in  this  town.  It 
was  commenced  in  1818,  and  educates  between  50  and 
60  students  annually  for  the  ministry. 

NoRR'DGEWORK,  16  miles,  is  situated  on  both  banks  of 
the  Kennebec  river.  It  is  the  capital  of  Somerset  coun- 
ty, and  contains  a  court  house  and  jail.  The  village  is 
centrally  located  for  the  trade  of  a  fertile  back  countrv, 
and  is  a  flourishing  place,  containing  a  population  of  about 
2000  inhabitants 

The  route  to  Quebec  continues  tlirough  a  less  popu- 
lous country  for  about  50  miles ;  when,  for  the  remaining 
distance,  it  passcs<  through  extensive  forests,  with  an  oc- 
casional  settlement  only.  These  forests,  however,  are 
giving  way  to  the  arts  of  husbandry,  and  in  a  few  years 
will  doubtless  be  succeeded  by  a  succession  of  settlements 
and  cultivated  farms. 


BOSTON  TO  PROVIDENCE. 


359 


FROM  BOSTO-V  TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. — 40  miles. 

Tho  route  is  over  the  Boston  and  Providence  Rail 
Road,  which  was  begun  in  1831,  and  completed  in  1835. 
The  road  commences  in  Boston,  near  the  soufii-west 
corner  of  tho  common,  and  crossing  the  Boston  and  Wor- 
cester rail  road,  it  proceeds  in  a  sou^h-westerly  direction 
tlirough  Roxbury,  Canton,  Sharon,  Mansfield  and  Altlc- 
bcrough.  The  greatest  elevation  is  at  Sharon,  23  miles 
from  Boston,  the  ascent  in  reaching  which,  for  a  distance 
of  five  miles,  is  at  the  rate  of  37  feet  per  mile.  Tlie  de- 
scent from  this  ridge  towards  Providence  averages  from 
10  to  12  feet  per  mile.  Between  Roxbury  and  Canton  a 
branch,  two  miles  long,  has  been  constructed  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Dedham;*  and  from  Mansfield,  a  branch,  eleven 
miles  long,  has  also  been  constructed  to  the  village  of 
Taunton.  The  main  road  and  branches  are  each  laid 
with  a  single  track,  but  of  the  most  permanent  materials. 
The  viaduct  at  Canton  it?  a  work  of  magnitude,  and  as  an 
object  of  curiosity,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  on  this 
road.  It  is  450  feet  long  and  from  40  to  50  feet  abova 
the  natural  surface,  built  entirely  of  granite,  in  the  most 
permanent  manner. 

Two  trains  of  carriages  for  passengers  pass  daily  (Sun- 

*This  is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  containing  a  court 
house,  jail,  6  cliurches  and  between  12  and  3000  inhabi- 
tants. Charles  and  Neponscl  rivers  nm  through  tho 
place  and  afford  numerous  sites  fur  mills  and  manufac- 
turing establishmenis.  Silk  is  reeled  and  throwsted  here 
on  a  small  scale — the  first  experiment  of  throwating  in 
the  U.  S. 

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PROVIDENCE. 


days  excepted)  from  and  to  Boston  and  Stonington,  Conn, 
via  Providence,  connecting  with  the  steamboats  rmining 
between  New-York  and  the  two  latter  places — so  that 
the  time  employed  in  a  journey  froni  Boston  to  New-York 
does  not  generally  exceed  J  2  or  14  hours. 

PROVIDENCE 

Issitua'cd  at  the  head  of  tide  waters  on  Narraganset 
bay.  just  above  ihc  mouth  of  the  Seekonk  river,  and  about 
3.'^  or  34  miles  from  the  sea.  The  town  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  which  bears  its  name,  on  the  dechvity 
of  a  hill  that  commands  an  extensive  view  of  the  surroun- 
ding country,  and  of  the  beautiful  bay  that  hes  below. 
It  received  a  charter  of  incorporation  and  became  a  city 
in  1832.  Its  situation  is  not  favorable  to  extensive  com- 
merce. Its  wealth  and  enterprise  arc  on  this  account 
principally  devoted  to  manufactures,  for  which  the  nu- 
meroiiJ  streams  in  its  neighborhood  afford  abundant  fa. 
cilities.  It  contains  a  m'niber  of  attractive  public  build, 
ings — among  which  deserve  to  be  mentioned,  a  court 
house,  market,  an  arcade,  a  hotel  near  the  depot  of  the 
Boston  and  Providence  rail  road,  and  especially  several 
of  the  houses  for  public  worship,  which  are  built  witli  un- 
usual  taste  and  elegance.  It  is  also  well  supplied  with 
institutions  of  charity  and  learning.  In  addition  to  near- 
ly 20  houses  of  pubhc  worship,  it  has  an  asylum  for  the 
poor,  a  number  of  academies  and  a  college.  For  the 
healthiness  of  its  situation  and  the  morals  of  its  people, 
Providence  stands  among  the  first  cities  in  the  Union. 
Its  population  is  about  18,000. 


»%w 


PROVIDENCE. 


3G1 


Brown  University^  established  in  this  city,  was  incor- 
porated in  1764,  and  has  always  held  a  respectable  rank 
among  the  colleges  of  New-England.  Since  1827  the 
Rev.  Francis  Wayland,  D.  D.  has  bc;t  .1  its  President. 
Under  the  able  and  well  sustained  administration  of  this 
distinguished  gentleman,  its  character  has  been  very 
much  elevated,  and  its  means  of  instruction  greatly  en- 
largcd.  A  full  and  elegant  philosophical  apparatus  was 
a  few  years  since  presented  to  the  institution  by  a  late 
munificent  merchant  of  !*rovidencc,  and  still  more  re- 
cently a  fund  of  25,000  dollars  has  been  raised  for  the  in- 
crease  of  its  library.  The  eollege  edifices  are  situated  on 
a  commanding  eminence,  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  city, 
in  the  midst  of  a  spacious  inclosure,  adorned  with  trees 
and  approached  through  a  beautiful  street,  lined  on  either 
side  by  over-hangui^r  elms.  The  buildings  are  three  in 
number — University  il:vll,  Hope  College  and  Manning 
Hall.  The  latter  is  a  beautiful  model  of  chaste  and  sim- 
ple architecture  It  is  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  a  chap- 
el and  library.  The  faculty  consists  of  6  professors  be- 
sides the  president,  who  is  also  professor  of  moral  and  in- 
tellectual philosophy,  3  tutors,  and  an  instructor  in  mod- 
ern languages.  The  number  of  its  students  is  not  far 
from  200. 

About  half  a  mile  north-cast  of  the  university  is  a  large 
building  called  the  Quaker  College.  It  was  built  by  the 
Bociety  of  Friends,  and  is  occupied  as  a  boarding  school 
for  that  denomination.  The  building,  which  is  of  plain 
brick,  and  the  spacious  grounds  around  it,  are  made  at- 
tractive by  the  appearance  of  neatness  and  good  order 
that  porvadcB  them.    A  little  to  the  south  of  this  and  of 


^Tn 


'  !! 


$ 


362 


BLACKSTONE  CANAL. 


corresponding  dimensions,  but  richer  architecture,  stands 
the  Dexter  Asylum,  a  noble  edifice,  erected  by  the  town 
from  the  avails  of  a  legacy  left  by  a  late  munificent  citi- 
zen,  whose  name  it  bears. 

The  city  abounds  with  the  most  delightful  private 
residences.  The  new  town  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
has  more  the  appearance  of  a  flourisliing  commercial  city 
than  the  old.  It  also  contains  many  spacious  dwellings, 
which  impart  to  it  an  air  of  superiority.  The  Hill,  or 
East  Providence,  as  it  is  called,  is  occupied  by  gentle- 
men's private  mansions,  or  country  seats,  all  advantage, 
ously  located,  with  fine  court  yards  in  front,  thickly  plan- 
ted  with  shrubbery,  while  highly  cultivated  and  beautiful 
gardens  adorn  the  rear,  and  add  immeasurably  to  their 
comfort.  The  charming  residence  of  Messrs.  Brown, 
Ives  and  Governor  Fenner  are  entiiled  to  particular  no- 
tice. It  was  on  the  present  domains  of  Governor  Fen- 
ner  that  Roger  Williams,  the  founder  of  Providence,  first 
planted  himself. 

The  Blackstone  Canal  terminates  at  this  place  It 
commences  in  the  Blackstone  river  at  Worcester,  Mass. 
45  miles  distant,  and  pursues  the  valley  of  the  river  to 
Woonsokot!  falls,  near  the  Massachusetts  line  ;  whence 
there  is  an  excavation  to  Providence. 

The  Stomngton  and  Providence  Rail  Road,  before 
noticed,  also  terminates  at  this  place.  It  is  about  43 
miles  long. 


The 

Pawtu: 
Mount 
Bristol, 
Newpo 
Point  J 
N.  Lon 
Connec 
Falkne 
N.  Hav 
Black  I 

Pawi 

mouth  ( 
of  consii 

Mou> 

Mount  J 

and  nea 

the  wat( 

the  form 

raganset 

lect  and 

whites; 

killed  ne 

nation. 

Brist( 
populatio 
cated  on 
an  excell 
About 


":f 


PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW-YORK. 


363 


FHOM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW-YORK. 

By  Steamboat,  211  miles. 
The  following  are  intermediate  distances : 

Miles. 


Pawtuxet, 5 

Mount  Hope,  ....     8  13 

Bristol, 2  15 

Newport, 10  25 

Point  Judith, 14  39 

N.  London  Harbor,  35  74 

Connecticut  river,.   14  88 

Falkner's  Island,  .   19  107 

N.  Haven  Harbor,  12  119 

Black  Rock 19  138 


Southport, 

Oldvvell, 

Slamford, 

West  Grccnwi. h,  . 
New-Rochelle,  , ,. 
Frog's  Point,  .... 
Flushing  Bay,  . . . . 

Hurl-Gafc, 

New- York, 


Miles. 

5  143 
151 
159 
U>7 
178 
186 
189 

i{>a 

201 


8 
8 
8 
11 
8 
3 
4 
8 


Pawtuxet,  5  miles  from  Providence,  is  located  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Pawtuxet  river,  and  is  a  flourishing  village 
of  considerable  trade. 

Mount  Hope,  8  miles  farther,  is  on  the  west  shore  of 
Mount  Hope  Bay.  It  is  of  a  conical  form,  with  an  acute 
and  nearly  pointed  apex,  and  rises  about  300  feet  above 
the  water's  edge.  It  is  more  particularly  celebrated  as 
the  former  residence  of  King  Philip,  a  chief  of  the  Nar- 
raganset  tribe  of  Indians,  possessed  of  uncommon  intel- 
lect and  military  prowess.  He  was  a  great  foe  to  the 
whites ;  and  after  many  sanguinary  conflicts,  was  finally 
killed  near  this  place  by  a  renegado  Indian  of  his  own 
nation. 

Bristol,  2  miles  farther,  is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a 
population  of  about  1500  inhabitants.  The  village  is  lo- 
cated on  the  east  shore  of  the  Narraganset  bay,  affbraing 
an  excellent  harbor  for  vessels  of  the  largest  dimensions. 
About  two   miles  from   the  ferrv  there   is  an  extensim 


H'l 


"pf 


•    :i' 


f 

«i 

'i 

i  i,  !l 


♦^ 


364 


BRISTOL — NEWPORT. 


mine  of  anthracite  coal,  from  which  very  considerablo 
quantities  are  annually  taken. 

After  leaving  Bristol,  the  boat  successively  passes  Pa- 
tience and  Prudence  Islands,  and  reaches 

Newport  in  a  distance  of  8  miles  from  the  latter.  It 
"is  a  large  town,  with  an  extensive  harbor,  which  is  defcn- 
<led  by  Forts  Adams  and  Dumplings  at  its  entrance,  and 
by  Fort  Wolcott  on  Go'xt  Island,  opposite  the  town. 
There  is  also  a  small  battery  a  mile  above  the  town, 
called  ForL  Green.  The  village  is  about  a  mile  in 
length,  and  rises  in  a  gentle  acclivity  from  the  harbor, 
giving  it  a  fine  appearance  when  approached  from  the 
water.  It  contains  a  state  house,  theatre,  five  banks, 
twelve  churches,  several  manufactories,  and  a  population 
of  about  8000. 

Ne  .v'port  was  possessed  by  the  British  for  a  considera- 
ble time  during  the  revolutionary  war.  In  1778,  under 
an  expectation  of  aid  from  the  French  fleet,  which  had 
sailed  into  the  harbor,  an  American  force,  of  about 
10,000  strong,  commanded  by  Gen.  SuUivan,  and 
aided  by  Gen.  Lafayette,  made  preparations  for  at- 
tacking the  place.  On  the  approach  of  the  Americans, 
the  British  abandoned  their  outposts  and  retreated 
to  their  works  within  the  town.  These  posts  were  im- 
mediately possessed  by  the  Americans ;  and  the  most 
flattering  prospects  existed,  that  the  allied  forces  would 
be  enabled  to  capture  the  entire  British  army.  But  the 
French  admiral  took  oflence  at  some  of  the  movements 
of  Gen.  Sullivan,  and  refused  a  co-operation.  While  an 
attempt  at  reconciliation  was  going  forward,  a  British 
fleet  suddenly  appeared  off"  Newport,  which  induced  the 


Frenci; 

of  the  ] 

naval  c 

tercd  c 

British 

ing  thii 

and  th( 

BufFerec 

enemy 

On  the 

made  t( 

cans ;  I 

gale,  tl 

pursuar 

Under  i 

ing  the 

on  its  b 

were  p 

sharp  c( 

tween  S 

treated 

From 

the  oces 

several 

the  sum 

PoiNi 
west  si( 
with  lesi 
boat  hen 
wave,  81 


Mt 


NEWPORT — POINT  JUDITH. 


365 


French  admiral,  as  a  precautionary  measure,  to  sail  out 
of  the  harbor.  A  severe  storm  comingr  on,  prevented  a 
naval  engagement ;  and  both  fleets,  heing  left  in  a  shat- 
tered condition  at  the  close  of  the  tempest,  retired — th<v' 
British  to  New- York,  and  the  French  to  Newport.  Dur- 
ing this  time.  Gen.  Sullivan  had  laid  siege  to  the  town  ; 
and  though  interrupted  by  the  storm,  in  which  his  army 
Buffered  considerably,  ho  had  succeeded  in  annoying  the 
enemy  and  keeping  faim  within  the  lines  of  the  village. 
On  the  return  of  the  French  fleet,  another  cftbrt  was 
made  to  induce  the  admiral  to  co.o})erate  with  the  Ameri- 
cans ;  but  his  ships  had  received  so  much  injury  in  the 
gale,  that  he  considered  it  necessary  to  repair  to  Boston, 
pursuant  to  previous  instructions  from  his  government. 
Under  these  circumstances,  Sullivan  determined  on  rais- 
ing the  seige.  A  retreat  was  effected  in  the  night  ;  but 
on  its  being  discovered  the  next  morning,  the  Americans 
were  pursued  by  the  British  to  Quaker  Hill,  where  a 
sharp  contest  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the  loss  of  be- 
tween 2  and  300  of  each  army.  Sullivan  afterwards  re- 
treated to  Massachusetts. 

From  its  elegant  and  healthy  situation,  its  proximity  to- 
the  ocean,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  Nowpovt,  for 
several  years,  has  been  a  place  of  considerable  resort  in 
the  summer  months  for  invalids  and  parties  of  pleasure. 

Point  Judith,  14  miles  from  Newport,  a  cape  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Narraganset  bay,  is  generally  passed 
with  less  pleasure  than  any  other  part  of  the  route.  The 
boat  here  frequently  encounters  the  full  swell  of  the  ocean 
wave,  subjecting  passengers  to  sea-sickncss  and  its  kin.^ 


;  f 


^    *  ^ 


;ii      )' 


ii 


366 


PROVIDENCB   TO  NSW-YORK. 


dred  evils ;  and  to  avoid  this,  the  inland  route,  by  the 
way  of  New-London,  is  generally  preferred. 

Watch  Hill  Light  House  is  passed  in  going  9  miles 
farther ;  whence  to  New-London  Harbor  is  26  miles. 
This  is  4  miles  from  the  city,  noticed  at  p.  368.  The  mouth 
of  the  Connecticut  river  is  14  miles  farther  ;  whence  to 
the  New-Haven  harbor,  4  miles  from  the  city  (seep.  379) 
is  31  miles. 

Black  Rock,  a  small  village,  is  19  miles  farther 
whence  to  Southport,  is  5  miles  ;  thence  to  Oldwell,  8 
thence  to  Stamford,  6  ;  thence  to  West  Greenwich,  8 
thence  to  New  Rochelle,  1 1  ;  thence  to  Frog's  Point,  8 
thence  to  Flushing  Bay,  3  ;  thence  to  Hurl-Gate,  (see  p 
98,)  4  ;  thence  to  New- York,  (see  pp.86  to  100)  8  mfles 

FROM    PROVIDENCE    TO    NEW-YORK. 

By  rail  road  and  steamboat — 188  mile^ 

INTERMEDIATE    DISTANCES. 

By  rail  road.  Mih*. 


Mil  PS 
;55loninj2rton,  ......   49 

By  ateamhoat. 
N.  London  Harbor  12     61 


l^hcnce  to  New. 
York,  as  in  ta. 
ble  of  distan- 
ces, p. 363,....    127  188 


The  rail-road  mentioned  at  p.  360,  is  taken  to 

Stonington,  49  miles.  The  village  is  incorporated ; 
contains  a  United  States  arsenal,  several  factories,  a  bank, 
an  academy,  4  churches,  and  a  population  of  about  4000. 
It  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 

The  settlement  of  the  place  commenced  as  early  as 
1649.  It  had  previously  been  a  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  Fequots,  a  powerful  and  warlike  tribe  of  Indians. 
The  early  Enghsh  settlers,  in  different  parts  of  Connecti- 


cut,  h: 

1G37,  i 

cxpuisi 

wlio,  w 

ragans< 

May,  a 

from  I 

miles  i 

whicii 

before 

proachii 

700  stK 

watch, 

singing, 

their  shi 

On  a  cl( 

the  fort  I 

Fequots 

aroused 

mediate] 

palisades 

part  of 

their  coi 

bravery  ; 

and  ano 

who  cut 

bayonets 

dered  th( 

in  all  di] 

palisades 

shot  dow 


V 


.  1  > 
V- 


STONINQTON. 


367 


i88 


fy  as 
jry  of 

lians. 

lecti- 


cut,  had  been  frequently  annoyed  by  this  tribe;  and,  in 
1G37,  it  became  necessary  to  take  cfVicient  stops  for  their 
expulsion.  An  expedition  was  entrusted  to  Capt.  Mason, 
who,  with  about  1)0  colonists  and  2Ul)  Moliocan  and  Nar- 
raganset  Indians,  encamped  on  the  nijnrlit  ol  the  iiCth  of 
May,  at  a  place  called  Porter's  rocks,  a  i^hort  distance 
from  tlic  present  village  of  Stoninj^on,  and  about  three 
miles  from  one  of  the  principal  forts  of  the  Pequots, 
which  was  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill.  Two  hours 
before  day,  the  little  army  was  in  motion  ;  and  on  ap- 
proaching  the  fort,  it  was  found  that  the  enemy,  about 
700  strong,  were  in  a  profound  sleep,  without  their  usual 
watch,  having  spent  a  portion  of  the  previous  night  in 
singing,  dancing,  insulting  the  English,  &c.,  because 
their  ships  had  passed  by  the  harbor  a  few  days  previous. 
On  a  close  approximation  of  Mason's  men,  a  dog  within 
the  fort  commenced  barking,  which  awakened  one  of  the 
Pequots ;  who,  perceiving  the  approach  of  the  assailants, 
aroused  his  comrades  from  their  slumbers.  Mason  im- 
mediately advanced,  and  through  the  apertures  of  the 
pahsades  poured  in  a  fire,  and  then  rushed  in  through  a 
part  of  the  fort  slightly  barricaded.  Notw^ithstanding 
their  confusion,  the  Pequots  defended  themselves  with 
bravery  ;  but  having  but  few  other  wxapons  than  bows 
and  ariows,  they  were  unable  to  withstand  the  assailants, 
who  cut  them  down  without  mercy  with  their  swords  and 
bayonets.  To  render  the  victory  com])lete,  Mason  or- 
dered their  wigmans  to  be  fired.  The  blaze  soon  spread 
in  all  directions,  compelling  the  besieged  to  ascend  the 
palisades;  from  whence  more  than  one  hundred  were 
shot  down  by  the  assailants  who  had  then  surrounded  the 

GG 


i.'  ^ 


^! 


n 
f  J 


368 


8TONINOTON  TO  NEW-LONDON. 


fort.  Others,  attempting  to  break  throufrh  the  lines  of 
the  troops,  were  either  phot  or  cut  down,  and  poveral  per- 
ished in  the  flamc^s.  Tlic  scene  continued  about  an  hour, 
when  it  was  found  that  seventy  wigwams  had  been  de- 
stroyed, and  that  the  ground  was  strewed  with  tlie  bodies 
of  between  five  and  six  hundred  of  the  slain.  Mason's 
loss  was  only  two  men  killed  and  sixteen  wounded. 

In  August,  1814,  a  bombardment  of  Stonington  took 
place  from  a  British  74,  a  frigate,  a  sloop  of  war  and  an 
armed  brig;  but  with  the  aid  of  two  18  pounders  and 
a  four  pounder,  the  inhabitants  defended  the  place,  pre- 
vented the  landing  uf  troops  from  barges,  and  finally 
compelled  th.e  enemy  to  haul  oflT,  with  his  brig  considera- 
bly shattered. 

For  a  notice  of  the  residue  of  the  route,  sec  p.  366. 

FROM   STONINGTON  TO  NEW-LONDON. 

12  miles. 
The  route  is  by  stage,  in  a  westerly  direction,  over  a 
pleasant  and  handsomely  cultivated  country. 

New-London,  located  on  the  west  bank  of  Thames 
river,  within  3  miles  of  its  mouth,  is  a  city  and  port  of  en- 
try. It  has  the  best  harbor  in  Connecticut,  and  is  de- 
fended by  Forts  Trumbull  and  Griswold.  It  contains  a 
court  horse,  two  banks,  six  churches,  and  a  population  of 
about  4L00  inhabitants.  Many  of  the  houses  on  the 
heights,  back  of  the  town,  and  a  few  in  the  city,  are  hand- 
some  ;  but  the  general  appearance  of  the  place  is  uninter- 
esting. 

New-London,  like  Stonington,  was  once  within  the 
territory  of  the  Pequot  Indians,  and  was  settled  at  the 


In 


'» 


NEW.LOXDON. 


369 


Ml 


•ame  time.  About  4  miles  cast  of  the  city,  on  what  is 
called  Fort  Hill,  this  nation  had  ihcir  strongest  fortress. 
But  slight  remains  of  it,  howcve.',  arc  now  to  bo  seen. 

In  September,  1781,  after  the  treason  of  Arnold,  an  ex- 
pedition was  entrusted  to  his  care  against  New-London. 
A  strong  detachment  landed  on  both  sides  of  the  harbor 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Arnold,  who  commanded  in 
person  the  troops  which  landed  on  the  west  side,  immedi- 
ately advanced  against  Fort  Trumbull,  an  adjoining  re- 
doubt, and  New-London.  These  posts  being  untenable, 
were  abandoned  on  his  approach.  Col.  Eyere,  who  coni- 
manded  the  detachment  which  landed  on  tlu;  eastern  side, 
proceeded  to  storm  Fort  Grisvvold,  situate  on  Groton 
Hill.  It  was  occupied  by  a  garrison  of  IGO  men,  com- 
manded by  Col.  Ledyard,  a  part  of  whom  had  just  evacu- 
ated the  works  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Led- 
yard defended  the  fort  until  the  British  succeeded  in  en- 
tering the  embrasures  with  charged  bayonets.  Fiu*ther 
resistance  being  useless,  Ledyard  surrendered  his  sword 
to  the  British  colonel ;  who,  in  defiance  of  every  rule  of 
civilized  warfare,  plunged  it  into  the  bosom  of  the  con- 
quered officer,  and  continued  the  carnage  until  the  great- 
er part  of  the  garrison  was  destroyed.  Eyere,  however, 
Iqpt  his  own  life  in  the  affair,  and  200  of  his  men  wero 
either  killed  or  wounded.  New-London  was,  at  the  same 
time,  set  on  fire  by  the  direction  of  Arnold,  and  most  of 
its  buildings  and  all  the  public  stores  deposited  in  the 
place  consumed  in  the  conflagration. 

Forts  Griswold  and  Trumbull  are  still  in  tolerable  pre- 
servation ;  and  were  garrisoned  by  the  government  dur- 
ing  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 


w 


'I 


370 


NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH. 


A  filcam  boat  IcavuH  Xorwicli  and  Ncw-L'indon  daily 
for  Now- York,  and  runs  in  conjunction  with  the  Nor- 
wich and  Worcester  rail  road,  noticed  at  p.  372. 

Stanrcs  also  leave  New  London  at  H  A.  M.  and  arrive 
at  Hartford  at  5  P.  M.  passing  through  Watcrvillo, 
Montville,  Salcni,  Colehcslor,  Hebron,  Marlborough, 
Glastrnbury  ajid  Kasf  Hartford.  Distance  47  miles — 
fare  I^Xl.  This  is  the  mojit  direct  route;  but  the  traveller 
will  find  it  interestinjT  to  take  a  trip  uj>  the  Thames  to 
Norwich  ;  whence  a  conveyance  may  be  had  to  Hartford, 
as  noticed  hereafter. 


f4 


FROM   NEW-LOXnOIV   TO  NORWICH, 

Bi/  stcnmhoal — 14  miles. 
Previous  to  the  settlement  of  New-London,  in  1648, 
the  Thames  was  called  the  Pecjuot  river ;  but  at  tha»  pe- 
riod it  received  its  present  name.  It  rises  in  the  Massa- 
pacug  pond  in  Union,  3  miles  N.  E.  of  Hartford,  passes 
into  Massachusetts,  re-enters  Connecticut,  and  pursues 
a  southerly  course  till  it  falls  into  Loner  Island  JSound. 
It  is  navifjable  for  larjre  vessels  no  farther  than  Norwich. 
During  the  late  war,  while  New-London  was  blockaded, 
the  U.  S.  ships  Macedonian,  Lhiited  States  and  Hornet, 
were  moored  in  a  cove  above  Massapeaug  Point,  and  a 
small  battery  erected  for  their  protection. 

MoHEGAN  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  four 
miles  south  of  Norwich,  and  is  the  residence  of  about  300 
Mohegan  Indians,  the  only  remnant  of  that  once  power- 
ful tribe,  who  formerly  owned  this  section  of  country. 
On  IJorton's  Hill,  not  far  from  this  place,  the  lines  of  an 
old  Indian  fort  can  still  be  traced* 


!S 


NORWICH. 


371 


Tradino  Covk,  about  1  milo  farther,  is  a  briy  extend- 
ing  a  phort  distarico  into  what  was  unce  the  Indian  coun- 
try, and  derived  its  name  from  the  traffic  which  was  here 
carried  on  between  the  colonists  and  the  Mohcpans. 
The  re8id«:nco  of  Uncas,  t'.ieir  sachem,  and  early  friend 
of  the  whites,  was  near  this  cove,  now  the  centre  of  the 
Indian  reservation. 

NORWICH 

Is  an  incorporated  city.  It  contains  three  compact 
settlements;  of  which  Chelsea  Landing,  situate  at  the 
point  of  land  between  tlie  Shetucket  and  Y antic  rivers, 
is  the  princij)al.  Its  location  is  peculiarly  romantic  ;  and 
it  is  a  place  of  much  enterprise  and  business.  What  is 
called  the  Town  is  2  miles  northwest  of  Chelsea,  contain, 
ing  the  court  house  and  some  other  public  buildings ; 
and  a  third  settlement  is  Bean  Hill,  in  the  western  part 
of  Norwich.  The  city  contains  a  bank,  4  or  5  churches, 
and  several  manufacturing  establisliments.  The  Yantic 
Falls,  J  mile  from  Chelsea,  are  handsome,  and  afford  fa- 
cilities for  mills  and  manufactories.  From  a  rock  70  or 
80  feet  in  height,  which  overhangs  the  stream,  tradition 
says  a  number  of  Narragansets  once  precipitated  them- 
selves when  pursued  by  the  Mohegans. 

Settlements  were  commenced  at  Norwich  as  early  as 
16G0.  A  part  of  the  town  was  first  conveyed  to  Thomas 
Leffingwell,  a  colonial  militia  ofHccr,  by  the  sachem  Un- 
cas, in  consideration  of  services  rendered  him  in  a  war 
with  a  neighboring  tribe. 

On  an  elevated  bank  north  of  what  is  called  the  Cove, 
and  near  the  Yantic  falls,  is  the  burying  ground  of  the 

G02 


'<«v 


I 


'» 


'  ( 


?•'„ 


372  i* 


NORWICH  TO  HARTFORD. 


royal  family  of  the  Mohejrans,  commonly  called  "  the 
buryinjr  ground  of  the  Uncases."  Many  of  their  graves 
are  still  designated  b\'  coarse  stones,  on  some  of  which 
are  English  insc.iptions.  Uncas  was  buried  hero  and 
many  of  his  descendants  ;  but  his  family  is  now  nearly  or 
quite  extinct. 

The  Plain  near  the  burying  ground  was  the  summer 
residence  of  the  Mohcgans,  and  is  a  most  dcliglitful  spot. 

The  Norwich  and  Woucr.sTKU  Rail  Road  commen- 
ces at  Norwich  and  extends  to  VV^orcestcr,  Mass.  distant 
59  miles,  (sec  p.  297,)  affording  to  the  inhabitants  on 
the  line  a  ra])id  and  easy  communication  by  steam  with 
Boston  or  New- York.  The  traveller,  indeed,  who  is  de- 
sirous of  seeing  tlic  interior  of  Massachusetts  and  Con- 
necticut, as  well  as  the  most  important  towns  in  either 
state,  may,  in  a  few  iiours  reach  Worcester  ;  from  which 
point,  if  he  has  already  visited  Boston,  he  may  proceed  by 
rail  road  to  Springfield  on  the  Connecticut  river,  noticed 
at  p.  299  ;  thence  proceed  to  Hartford  by  steamboat ; 
thence  to  New- Haven  by  rail  road ;  and  thence  to  New- 
York  by  steamboat.  Pursuing,  however,  tlie  systematic 
route  contemplated  in  these  pages,  wc  next  subjoin  that 


FROM  NORWICH  TO  HARTFORD. 

Stages  leave  Norwich  in  the  morninof.  and  arrive  at 
Hartford  in  the  afternoon.  Distance,  39  miles — fare 
$2,50.  The  mtcrmcdiato  distances  and  places  arc  as 
follow : 


Miles 
Bozrah, ...........  5 

Lebanon...... 4    9 

Coventry, 12  21 


Miles. 

Bolton 4  25 

East  Hartford, 13  38 

Hartford 1  39 


-^ir*^ 


irc  as 

Mihs. 

4  25 

l3  38 

1  39 


HARTFORD. 


373 


East  Hartford  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  directly  opposite  Hartford,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  an  eleg'ant  bridjrc,  which,  including  the 
causeway,  is  nearly  a  mile  lon^. 

HARTFORD. 

A  settlement  was  commenced  by  the  English  at  this 
place  in  1G34.  The  Dutch,  from  New-Netherlands,  had 
previously  established  a  trading  house  and  a  port  at  the 
place,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  a  commerce  with 
the  Indians,  and  were  disposed  to  prevent  the  English 
{row.  j)urlicipating  in  the  traffic.  But  finding  that  this 
co'i'd  not  be  efT''-:ctcd,  without  a  bloody  contest,  they 
abandoned  the  design. 

The  charter  which  was  originally  granted  to  the  col- 
onists of  Connecticut,  having  been  demanded  by  the 
English  monarch  in  1G8G,  through  the  medium  of  an 
agent,  it  was  regularly  surrendered  by  the  colonial  legis- 
lature. This  took  place  in  an  evening  ;  and  while  it  re- 
mained on  a  table  in  a  room  where  an  agent  and  several 
British  officers  had  assembled,  the  windows  being  open, 
on  t  preconcerted  signal,  the  candles  were  extinguished 
by  persons  in  the  street,  and  the  charter  seized  by  a  citi- 
zen  in  the  room,  and  conveyed  to  a  tree  ;  in  the  cavity  of 
which  it  remained  for  several  years.  This  tree  is  still 
standing  ;  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Charter  Oak. 
It  is  located  in  the  lower  par^  of  the  town,  in  the  street 
running  east  from  the  south  church,  and  is  directly  in 
front  of  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Wyllis  family.  The 
charter  is  still  preserved  in  the  office  of  the  secretary  of 
state. 


'-,  I 


i  ^^1 


^:^^r 


374 


HARTFORD. 


Hartford  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecti- 
cut  river,  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  50  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  city  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and 
contains  a  number  of  elegant  buildings  and  private  resi- 
dences.  Among  its  public  buildings,  are  a  state  house, 
arsenal,  5  banks,  an  academy,  a  female  seminary,  besides 
several  select  schools  of  an  academical  character,  all  of 
which  are  well  conducted  ;  a  college,  an  asylum  for  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  a  retreat  for  the  insane,  and  12  churches. 
It  also  contains  a  jail,  on  the  modern  penitentiary  system, 
which  is  already  considered  a  model  and  may  challenge 
comparison  with  any  in  the  United  States.  The  popula- 
tion of  the  city  is  about  12,000. 

Washington  College  is  in  Main  street,  in  the  south  part 
of  the  city.  It  consists  of  two  edifices  ;  one  of  which  is 
150  feet  long  and  4  stories  high,  and  contains  the  rooms 
of  the  students.  In  the  other  is  the  chapel,  recitation 
rooms  and  library.     It  is  in  a  prosperous  condition. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  on  Lord's  Hill,  one 
mile  west  of  the  city ;  and  was  the  first  institution  of  the 
kind  established  in  the  United  States.  The  permanent 
fund  of  the  institution,  including  a  donation  of  land  by 
congress,  amounts  to  ^215,539,  of  which  sum  »*$80,000 
are  available.  The  number  of  pupils  is  generally  about 
70,  many  of  whom  arc  supported  by  public  and  private 
charities. 

The  Exchange  Buildings,  on  the  corner  of  Main  and 
State  streets,  are  deserving  of  notice  as  a  specimen  of 
good  taste,  and  as  ornamental  to  the  city. 

The  City  Hall^  at  the  corner  of  Temple  and  Market 
streets,  just  east  of  Main  street,  is  a  substantial  and  con- 


necti- 
milcs 
t,  and 
e  resi- 
house, 
esides 
,  all  of 
or  the 
jrches. 
ystem, 
illenge 
popula- 

ith  part 
;hich  is 
)  rooms 
citation 
I. 

ill,  one 
I  of  the 
nancnt 
and  by 
80,000 
about 
private 

urn  and 
jen  of 


HARTFORD. 


375 


venient  structure,  and  creditable  to  the  munificence  of 
the  inhabitants.     It  contains  the  Centre  Market. 

The  New  Episcopal  Church  and  the  Orphan  Asylinn^ 
m  Washington  street,  occupy  a  prominent  place.  The 
latter  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  commanding  eminence, 
and  ranks  in  spaciousness,  beauty  and  excellent  manag  % 
ment,  with  the  most  favored  establishments  of  the  kind 
in  other  cities.  The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  monument  of 
liberal  public  spirit  guided  by  good  taste,  and  is  surpassed 
in  design  and  execution  by  few,  if  any  similar  buildings  in 
our  country. 

The  Hospital  for  the  Insane^  is  a  stone  building,  150 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  4  stories  high,  with  wings  of  3 
stories.     It  is  located  a  little  south  of  the  city. 

Hartford  has  undergone  a  surprising  change  within  a 
few  years.  Its  streets  have  been  greaily  improved  ;  many 
of  its  old  buildings  have  given  place  to  new  and  elegant 
dwellings,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  citv  exliibits 
an  unusual  degree  of  enterprise  and  prosperity. 

STEAMBOATS. 

A  steamboat  leaves  Hartford  for  New- York  daily, 
(Sundays  excepted,)  at  2  P.  M.  reaching  New- York  ear- 
ly the  next  morning  ;  and  leaves  New- York  daily  at  4 
P.  M.  reaching  Hartford  the  next  morning  before  break- 
fast— fare  ^2. 

Steamboats  also  pass  daily  between  Hartford  and 
Springfield,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  distant  28  miles 
(noticed  hereafter.) 


•  :M 


\ 


i 


1 

1^ 


h.    ' 


[arket 
id  con- 


m 


376 


HARTFORD. 


> 


STAGES. 

To  Boston. — Stages  leave  daily  fcr  Boston,  passing 
through  Ellington,  Tolland,  Willington,  Ashford,  Thomp- 
son, Douglass,  Mcndon,  Medway,  Dover  and  Brooklyne. 
Distance  110  miles. 

To  Liichjield  Ct.^  and  Poughkeepsiej  N.  Y. — A  stage 
leaves  Hartford  daily  (Sundays  excepted)  at  11  A.  M. 
and  arrives  at  Litchfield  the  same  afternoon,  and  Pough- 
keepsie  the  next  day. 

To  Hanover,  N.  H.  {up  Connecticut  river.) — A  stage 
leaves  Hartford  daily,  (except  Sundays)  arrives  at  Brat- 
tleborough,  Vt.,  the  first  day,  and  Hanover,  N.  H.,  the 
second — passing  through  East  Windsor,  Ct.,  Springfield, 
Northampton,  Deerfield  and  Greenfield,  Mass.,  Brattle- 
borough  and  Westminister,  Vt.,  Walpoleand  Charlestowuj 
N.  H.,  Windsor  and  Hartford,  Vt.,  to  Hanover.  [This 
line  intersects  the  rail  road  line  from  Springfield  to  Bos- 
ton, and  the  daily  stage  for  Saratoga  Springs  at  Charles- 
town.]  Distance  from  Hartford  to  Hanover,  152  miles — 
fare  $7,25. 

To  New-London. — A  stage  leaves  ILi.tford  at  7  A.  M. 
and  reaches  New-London  at  2  P.  M. — Distance  47  miles — 
fare  $2. 

To  Albany. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  at  10  P.  M.  and  arrives  at  Albany  the  next  af- 
ternoon.— Distance  96  miles — fare  ^5. 


^ 


HARTFORD  TO  MIDDLETOWN. 


377 


FROM  HARTFORD  TO  MIDDLETOWN — 15  iniles. 

The  route  is  by  stage  through  VVethcrsficld  and  Rockjr 
Hill. 

Wethersfield  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  4  miles  below  Hartford.  The  soil, 
which  is  of  the  finest  order,  is  principally  devoted  to  the 
culture  of  onions ;  of  which  large  quantities  are  exported 
annually.  The  labor  is  principally  performed  by  women 
and  children.  The  penitentiary  of  the  state  is  at  this 
place. 

Rocky  Hill,  3  miles ;  a  parish  in  the  town  of  Weth- 
ersfield, containing  a  lofty  eminence,  from  which  a  rich 
and  variegated  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country  is  en- 
joyed. Six  miles  farther  is  a  village,  called  Middletcwn 
Upper  Houses  ;  from  which  place  to  the  city  of  Middle- 
town  is  2  miles. 

MIDDLETOWN 

Is  a  port  of  entry,  and  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  31  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Among  its  public  buildings  are  a  court  house, 
jail,  alms-house,  2  banks,  7  churches  and  a  university  sus- 
tained by  the  Methodists.  There  are  also  several  extcii- 
sive  manufactories  of  rifles,  swords,  buttons,  ivory  combs, 
woollen  and  cotton  goods,  &c.  The  population  of  the 
city  is  about  8000. 

Th"  Wesley  an  University  ^  founded  in  1831,  is  an  insti- 
tution  of  great  promise,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Meth- 
odist  Episcopal  church.  Its  buildings  are  eligibly  situa- 
ted,  on  a  hill  adjacent  to  the  city,  and  command  a  fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.    It  possesses  a  valua- 


A 


J*  »i. 


.•^ 


378 


HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVKN. 


ble  library,  cabinetof  minerals,  chemical  and  philosophical 
apparatus,  &,c.  w<^  , 

On  the  cast  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  opposite  to  iNIid- 
dletown,  arc  several  quarries  of  free  stone,  used  for  build- 
ing. Immediately  below  the  city,  the  river  turns  abruptly 
to  the  south-east ;  and  passes  between  two  lofty  hills, 
forming  what  are  called  the  Narrows.  Within  these 
Narrows,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  lead  mine, 
which  was  used  during  the  revolutionary  war.  It  can 
be  approached  only  in  boats  or  by  means  oi  a  foot  path.* 

FROM  HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVEN— 34  iniles. 

The  route  is  by  rail  road  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Newington, 4 

Worthington,  ....     7     11 
Meriden 6     17 


Miles. 

Wallingford, 4    21 

North-Haven,  ....     6    27 
New-Haven,....,     7     34 

The  villages  in  the  reEpcctive  towns  through  which 
the  road  passes  being  on  elevated  ground,  while  the  val- 
leys and  low  grounds  have  necessarily  been  selectc  1  ^or 
the  site  of  the  road,  no  important  settlements  are  seen 

until  reaching 

• 

^Continuing  a  course  down  the  river,  the  steamboat 
successively  passes  Middle  Haddam,  Haddam,  East 
Haddam,  Essex  or  Pettipaug,  and  Saybrook,  where  the 
river  enters  Long  Island  Sound.  The  shores  are  gener- 
ally bold  and  rocky,  and  present  but  few  objects  of  inter- 
est.  Saybrouk  was  the  first  town  settled  on  the  river  ; 
at  which  time  (1635)  a  small  fort  was  erected  at  the 
place.  The  town  was  originally  granted  to  Lord  Say 
and  Seal,  Lord  Brook  and  others,  and  derived  its  name 
from  these  proprietors.  Yale  college  was  located  here  for 
a  time,  and  afterwards  removed  to  New-Haven. 


BCW.HAVEN. 


87» 


NEW-HAVEN. 

Tliis  city,  whicli  is  usually  pronounced  by  travellers  to 
be  one  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  the  Union,  is  located 
around  a  harbor  which  sets  up  about  4  miles  from  Long 
Island  Sound,  and  is  the  semi.capital  of  the  state.  It  is 
built  on  a  large  plain,  encircled  on  all  sides  except  those 
occupied  by  the  water,  by  hills  and  lofty  mountains,  and 
is  divided  into  two  parts,  called  the  old  and  new  town- 
ships, in  each  of  which  is  an  open  square.  The  houses 
are  g^enerally  neat,  and  some  are  very  elegant.  To  each 
dwelling  there  is  generally  attached  a  garden,  and  fre- 
quently a  beautiful  yard  in  front.  Added  to  which  sev- 
eral of  the  streets  are  adorned  with  lofty  trees,  giving  the 
whole  a  rural  and  most  delightful  appearance.  Among 
the  public  buildings  are  a  state  house,  the  college  edifices, 
6  churches,  \  court  house,  jail,  2  banks,  a  custom  house 
and  3  or  4  academies.  The  population  is  between  12 
and  14,000. 

The  Public  Square  or  Green^  near  the  centre  of  the 
city,  is  an  elegant  spot,  containing  several  acres,  and  is 
surrounded  by  stalely  elms.  In  the  centre  are  three 
churches  and  the  state  house  ;  on  the  west  side,  the  col- 
lege buildings ;  and  on  the  east  side,  fronting  the  state 
house,  the  Tontine  Coffee  House. 

Yale  College  was  founded  in  1701,  and  was  named  af- 
ter its  early  benefactor,  Elihu  Yale,  governor  of  the  East 
India  Company.  It  was  originally  located  at  Killing- 
worth;  afterwards  removed  to  Saybrook,  (sec  p.  378;) 
and  thence,  in  1717,  to  New-Haven.  The  faculty  is 
composed  of  a  president,  10  professors,  a  librarian  and  8 

IIH 


*,;!*' 


1' 

m 


t^' 


380 


NEW.JlAViN. 


It' 


-.^,^ 


tutors.  The  library  consists  of  about  10,000  volumes; 
and  the  literary  societies  among  the  students  have  libra- 
ries amounting,  collectively,  to  5000  more.  Tlie  cabinet 
of  minerals  is  very  extensive,  ind  by  far  the  most  valua- 
ble of  any  in  the  Union.  The  college  buildings  consist 
of  four  spacious  edifices,  each  4  stories  high,  104  feet 
long  and  40  wide,  and  each  containing  32  rooms  for  stu- 
dents ;  two  chapels,  one  containing  a  philosophical  chara- 
ber  ;  a  Lyceum,  containing  the  library  and  recitation 
rooms  ;  and  a  handsome  dining  hall  in  the  rear  of  the 
other  buildings.  Seven  of  these  buildings  stand  in  a  line 
fronting  the  green,  the  Lycum  occupying  a  central  posi- 
tion  ;  and  the  whole,  with  the  charming  scenery  around, 
form  a  most  enchanting  and  elegant  landscape.  The 
medical  institutiim  fronting  College  street  is  connected 
with  the  college,  and  has  a  valuable  anatomical  museum. 
The  number  of  students  at  Yale  is  generally  from  450  to 
500. 

The  Burying  Ground,  containing  several  acres,  is 
divided  into  parallelograms,  which  are  subdivided  for 
families.  The  ground  is  planted  with  trees,  mostly  wil- 
lows; and  the  white  monuments,  several  of  which  are 
obelisks,  seen  through  the  foliage,  with  the  taste  and  uni- 
formity  every  where  discovered,  give  to  the  whole  a  most 
impressive  and  solemn  appearance. 

The  Tontine  Coffee  House  is  one  of  the  best  establish- 
ments of  the  kind  in  the  U.  S.  It  is  located  directly  in 
front  of  the  state  house  and  college  edifices,  the  public 
square  intervening,  commanding  from  its  upper  or  fourth 
story  a  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  city  and  the 
surrounding  country. 


Nia 


.r 


u* 


WEST  AOCK — FARMINOTON  CANAL. 


381 


Inmefl ; 
e  libra- 
cabinet 

valua- 
consist 
)4  feet 
for  stu- 

cham- 
citation 
•  of  the 
n  a  line 
al  posi- 
around, 
I.  The 
nnccted 
lusoum. 

450  to 

cres,   is 

ded  for 

ly  wil- 

ch  are 

md  uni- 

a  most 

tablish. 
ctly  in 
public 
fourth 
uid  the 


West  Rock  is  2  miles  north-west  of  Ncw-Haven.  It 
is  the  southern  extremity  of*  the  east  ridje  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  and  is  a  perpendicular  blufT  fronfing  tho 
south,  400  feet  in  heijrht.  Tlie  village  of  Hotchkisstown 
is  at  its  foot.  Tho  cave  in  v.'hich  the  regicide  judges, 
Whallcy  Sl  Goffc,  secreted  themselves  for  three  or  four 
years,  {see  p.  293,)  is  on  tho  summit  of  the  rock,  about  a 
mile  north  of  the  bluff,  'i  he  cave  is  formed  by  the  crev- 
ices between  several  large  rocks,  apparently  thrown  to- 
gether by  some  convulsion,  and  is  entirelj''  above  ground. 
N?ar  the  lop  of  one  of  tlic  rocks  is  this  inscription  :  '*  Op* 
position  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God."  During  the 
continuance  of  the  regicides  at  this  place,  they  were  fur- 
nished  daily  with  food  by  a  family  who  resided  near  the 
foot  of  the  mountain. 

East  Rock  is  2  miles  north-east  of  New-Haven,  and  is 
the  southern  termination  of  the  Mount  Tom  range  of 
mountains.  It  is  370  feet  high,  and  from  its  top  a  fine 
V  ew  is  had  of  New-Haven,  its  harbor,  the  Sound  and 
Long-Island.  ' 

The  Farmington  Canal,  which  was  originally  com- 
menced at  the  north  line  of  the  state,  terminates  at  New- 
Haven — distance  58  miles,  lockage  218  icet.  This  canal 
has  since  been  extended  to  Northampton,  Mass.  between 
20  and  30  miles  farther ;  and  a  branch  has  been  con- 
structed  from  Farmington  up  the  Farmington  river,  to 
New-Hartford,  15  miles. 

The  towns  bordering  on  the  Sound,  near  New-Haven, 
are  visited  in  the  summer  months  by  numerous  invalids 
for  the  benefit  of  the  sea  breeze  and  a  salubrious  climate. 
Among  these  towns,  Guilford,  15  miles  east  of  New- 


"■i '} 


t  m 


iWf 


1  ^ 


BRI DOEPORT — FA  IRFIELD. 


Haven,  is  generally  preferred.  It  has  two  liarbors,  is  u 
place  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  conetantly  supplied 
with  the  best  of  oysters,  lobsters  and  fish,  taken  in  and 
near  ♦>      «rbors. 

SL  >*ooat8  ply  between  Ncw-Havcn  and  New- York 
daily,  and  the  passage  is  generally  performed  in  8  or  9 
hours.    Fare  $2. 

Stages  leave  New-Haven  daily  for  Boston,  Albany  and 
New- York.  Dislanco  to  Boston,  13G  miles;  to  Albany, 
110  miles  ;  to  New- York,  8fi  miles.* 


*This  route  is  usually  performed  in   lf2  or  14  hours, 
and  the  intervening  places  and  distances  are  as  follow  : 


Miles 

Stratford, 13 

Bridp-cport, 3     16 

Fairfield, 5    21 

Norwalk, 10     31 


Miles. 

Stamford, ll     42 

Greenwich, 6    48 

Harlcem, 30     78 

New-York, 8     86 

BRHKiKPORT  is  liaudsomcly  situated  on  both  banks  of 
the  Pujrhquonnuck  river,  which  here  empties  into  the 
Bridgeport  harbor,  communicating  with  Lang-Island 
Sound,  3  miles  below.  The  village  contains  a  population 
of  between  2  and  3000,  and  is  destined  by  means  of  a 
rail  road  which  is  now  in  progress  to  West  Stockbridge, 
Mass.  {nee  p.  299,)  to  become  a  place  of  imporfance. 
When  finished,  this  road  will  afford  a  winter  communi- 
cation, by  steam,  between  New- York  and  the  city  of  Hud. 
son,  k8  miles  below  Albany ;  and  on  the  completion  of 
the  road  from  W\'8t  Stockbridge  to  Springfield,  a  like 
communication  in  the  interior  to  Boston. 

Fairfield  5  miles  from  Bridgeport,  is  a  port  of  entry 
on  Long  Island  Sound,  containing  a  court  house,  acade- 
my, sevvTal  churches,  snd  a  population  of  about  2'}00.  It 
was  on  a  low  level  piece  of  ground,  which  is  seen  on  the 
left  side  of  the  road,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  after  leaving 
the  village,  that  the  remnant  of  the  Pequot  tribe  of  Indi- 
ans, after  the  destruction  of  their  fort  by  Capt.  Mason  at 
Mystic,  {see  p.  366,)  were  either  killed  or  captured.  The 
battle  was  severe  and  bloody,  and  some  rches  of  arms 


NEW. HAVEN    TO    LITCHFIELD. 


383 


rs,  ifl  a 

upplicd 

in  and 

w-York 
8  or  9 

any  and 
\lbany, 


I  hours, 
How : 

Allies. 

II  42 
6    48 

30    78 

8  86 
>anks  of 
into  llie 

Island 
)ulation 
ains  of  a 

bridge, 
jrlance. 
mrnuni- 
ofHud. 
etion  of 

,  a  like 

)f  entry 
acadc- 
}00.  It 
on  the 
leaving 
Df  Indi- 
ason  at 
The 
)f  arms 


FROM    NKW-IIAVEN    TO   LI  TCII  FIK  LD. 

A  stajrc  KavTs  Ncw-IIavcn  daily  for  r<itchfirl(i,  pass- 
inj^  through  Watcrbury  and  Watcrtown — distance  38 
miles. 

Passinir  ^y^^*  Rock,  (sf^r  p.  381,)  and  proceeding 
thence  for  a  eonsidorable  distance  in  a  nortlierly  direction, 
througli  a  beautiful  valley,  having  on  its  right  a  lofty 
rocky  barrier,  wilh  rude  perpendicular  precipices,  Bea<'on 
Mountain  is  reached  in  travelling  14  miles  from  Now- 
Havcn.  Tliis  mountain  is  a  ridge  cf  almost  naked  rocks 
stretching  to  the  soulliwcst.  '*  The  road,  which  is  form- 
ed in  the  natural  gap  of  the  mountain,  hero  winds  through 
a  bold  gulf  or  dtfile,  so  narrow,  that  at  one  place  only  a 
single  carriage  can  pass  at  once.  On  both  sides,  theclltfs 
are  lofty,  particularly  on  the  left  ;  and  on  the  right,  a 
little  distance  froi  the  road,  they  overhang  in  a  frigiitfui 
manner."     Beyond  this  gap,  the  road  turns  more  to  the 


used  in  the  contest  are  at  this  day  occasionally  found  by 
the  inhabitunls. 

NoRWALK  is  on  the  Sound,  and  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  an  aeademy  and  3  churches. 

VV'f-:st  CubisTEa  C'ointv,  which  is  entered  in  a  few 
miles  after  leaving  (ireenwieii,  and  which  was  "  neu- 
tral  ground"  during  the  revolutionary  war,  was  selected 
by  Mr.  Ceoper,  the  novelist,  as  tlie  principal  scene  of  his 
♦•  Spy." 

At  HoRSENECK,  33  miles  from  N.  York,  the  traveller 
is  shown  the  steep,  down  which  Gen.  Putnam  descended 
on  horseback  during  the  revolution. 

At  HARLi*;M,  8  miles  from  New-York,  the  road  passes 
near  the  East  river,  affordmg  the  traveller  a  view  of 
Hurl  Gate.     {Seep.  98.) 

hh2 


t , 


3P4 


MTCIIFIEU). 


left,  running  along  a  nvulct  ;  and  after  tiireo  or  four 
miles,  on  rising  an  eminence,  the  Naugatuck,  a  branch 
of  the  Ilousatonic  river,  is  discovered.  It  runs  through  a 
deep  and  narrow  j'ulf,  which  i.s  neen  from  tlic  road. 

Watkrtown,  26  miles  from  Ncw-Ilaven,  is  on  a  com- 
manding hill,  and  m  a  beautiful  little  village,  containing 
two  churches. 

IiiT(;HFiF,LD  is  on  a  handsome  eminence,  and  is  consid- 
ered one  of  the  most  pleasant  villages  in  the  state.  The 
principal  street  extends  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  and 
contains  a  collection  of  neat  houses,  adorned  with  gar- 
dens and  court.yards.  Among  the  public  buildings  arc  a 
court-house.  Jail,  bank  and  two  churches. 

Mount  Torn,  near  the  Kouth-west  corner  of  this  town, 
is  700  feet  above  the  river  at  its  base,  and  affords  from  its 
top  an  extensive  prc.-pect. 

The  Great  Pond  in  Litchfield,  comprises  an  area  of 
about  900  acres,  is  the  largest  in  tlie  state,  and  is  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  Waaler,  affording  at  its  outlet  a  number  of 
valuable  mill  sites. 

Mount  Prospect^  is  a  rocky,  wood  clad,  elevated  ridge, 
of  two  miles  extent.  From  its  summit  an  interesting  and 
diversified  view  is  presented  of  villages  and  lakes,  and  of 
a  well  cultivated,  healthy  country. 

From  Litchfield,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily,  passing 
through  East  Goshen,  Norfolk,  Canaan,  Sheffield,  Great 
Barrington,  West  Stockbridge,  Chatham,  Nassau,  Seho- 
dack  and  Grcenbush  to  Albany,  and  reaching  the  latter 
place  in  about  24  hours.  Distance  72  miles — fare  «^4.  This 
is  the  most  direct  route,  also,  from  Litchfield  to  Saratoga 


# 


LITCHFIELD    TO    IIARTFORI). 


385 


)r  four 
branch 
•ough  a 

i. 

a  com- 
laining 

consid- 
!.  The 
Ih,  and 
ith  frar- 
[j8  arc  a 

is  town, 
from  its 

area  of 
a  beau- 
mber  of 

jd  ridge, 
ing  and 

i,  and  of 

1  passing 
I,  Great 
I,  Scho- 
ip,  latter 
4.  This 
laratoga 


Springs ;  but,  to  makf)  the  tour  of  New  Enprland  moro 
complete,  it  is  rcconirnend«'d  to  proccLd  Irom  Litclificld 
to  Hartford,  and  thc:ic«'  np  Iho  beaut ifui  vulicy  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  which  is  vari'iga'ed  vvitli  villages  and 
country  scats,  and  presents  some  of  tlie  finest  scenery  on 
the  continent. 

FROM    LITCHFIKLI)  TO   IIAIITFORI). 

A  stage  may  be  taken  at  Litehfi(;Id  daily,  except  Sun- 
days, passing  through  Harwinton,  Burlington  and  Farm- 
ington,  and  reaching  Hartford  in  about  7  liours.  Distance 
30  miles— fare  »f  2. 

Harwinton  is  a  small  village,  7  miles  from  Litchfield, 
on  the  Naugatuck  river. 

Bl'rlinoton',  7  miles. 

Far MiNGTON,  G  miles.  This  is  a  pleasant  village,  loca- 
ted on  the  Farmington  river,  which,  after  leaving  the  vil. 
lage,  takes  a  northerly  course  for  15  miles,  wliere  it  is 
joined  by  the  Salmon  river.  It  then  Unna  to  the  south- 
east, passing  between  lofty  mountains,  and  descends  a 
cataract  of  150  feel  ;  after  which  it  is  called  the  Wind- 
sor river,  and  joins  the  Connecticut  4  miles  above  Hart- 
ford. Farmington  contains  3  churches  and  a  population 
of  between  2  and  3000.  [For  a  notice  of  the  Farming. 
ton  canal,  which  passes  through  this  place,  see  p.  381.] 

Hartford,  10  miles.     {Seep.  313.) 

w. 


386 


EAST    WINDSOR SUFFIELD, 


r 


'*./ 


BOUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE    CONNECTI- 
CUT RIVER. 

Steamboats  run  daily  up  the  Connecticut  river  a^  far 
as  Springfield,  28  miles  from  Hartford.  In  llie  stage 
route,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  the  first  village  reach- 
ed is 

East  Windsor,  8  miles  from  Hartford.  Settlements 
were  commenced  at  this  place  as  well  as  at  Hartford,  in 
1G33.  At  East  Windsor  Hill,  one  of  the  most  delij^htful 
localities  in  the  whole  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  the  trav- 
eller passes  the  hands:jme  buildings  of  the  East  Windsor 
Theological  Seminary.  This  institution,  which  has  been 
recently  founded,  is  under  the  presidency  of  the  Rev. 
Doct.  Tyler,  assisted  by  several  professors,  and  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition. 

Enfield,  10  miles  farther.  A  canal  has  been  construc- 
ted around  the  falls  at  this  place,  of  sufficient  dimensions 
to  receive  the  largest  class  of  canal  boats.  Its  depth  va- 
ries from  four  to  twenty  feet ;  the  average  width,  at  the 
surface  of  the  water,  is  about  seventy  feet,  and  its  length 
five  and  a  half  miles. 

SuFFiELD,  1  mile  from  Enfield,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  is  a  beautiful  town.  The  village,  which  is  on  an 
eminence  about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  road,  is  compos- 
ed principally  of  one  street,  half  a  mile  in  extent.  The 
houses,  with  their  handsome  gardens  and  yards,  present 
a  picturesque  and  elegant  appearance.  A  sulphur  spring, 
a  mile  or  two  southwest  of  the  village,  is  a  place  of  some 
resort  by  invahds. 


rl 


SOUTH   HAULBY    FALLS — HATFIELD. 


337 


Springfield,  9  miles  farther.     {See  p.  299.) 

South  Hadlky  Falls,  arc  12  miles  from  Springfield, 
The  river  here  descends  in  the  distance  of  two  and  a  half 
miles,  52  feet  ;  and  on  the  cast  side,  commencing'  at 
South  Hadlcy  village,  a  canal  has  been  constructed,  cor- 
responding  in  extent  with  these  falls,  through  which  lum- 
ber and  the  largest  boats  pass. 

Previous  lo  reaching  Northampton,  the  river,  passes 
between  Mount  Tom  on  the  south,  and  Mount  Holyoke 
{see  p.  292)  on  the  north.  North  of  the  latter  mountain, 
a  most  charming  and  extensive  plain  is  presented,  cm- 
bracing  many  elegant  villages  and  country  seats. 

Northampton,  5  miles  from  South  Hadley.  {Seep, 
292.) 

Hauley,  2  miles  cast  of  Northampton.     {See  p.  293.) 

Hatfield,  5  miles  north  of  Northampton,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  is  a  neat  and  venerable  town,  having 
been  settled  as  early  as  1658.  In  October,  1675,  Lifter 
the  burning  of  Springfield,  {see  p.  299,)  tiie  Indians  un- 
der Philip,  flushed  with  their  repeated  successes,  made 
an  at:ack  on  Hatfield  ;  which  was  then  defended  by  two 
companies,  aided  by  a  third,  which  came  to  their  relief 
during  the  conflict.  The  Indians  were  about  700  strong, 
and  made  a  furious  assault  upon  the  town  in  various  di- 
rections, pillaging  and  burning  several  of  the  houses.  But 
they  were  defeated,  and  compelled  to  seek  safety  in  a 
precipitate  flight. 

On  the  30th  of  May  of  the  following  year,  another  at- 
tack was  made  upon  Hatfield  by  600  Indians.     Twelv* 


>    ft 


388 


MUDDT    BROOK. 


f 


unfortified  buildings  were  immediately  burnt  ;  but  the 
others,  which  were  pallisadcd  were  defended  by  a  few  in- 
habitants. Part  of  the  Indians  then  repaired  to  the  fields, 
and  attacked  the  men  at  their  labor  ;  but  25  young  men 
crossed  the  river  from  Hadley,  and  rushing  upon  the  en- 
emy, killed  several,  and  finally,  with  the  aid  o/  the  inhab- 
itants, dispersed  them. 

?IuDDY  Brook,  9  miles  from  Hatfield,  is  a  small  vil- 
lage, deriving  its  name  from  a  stream  which  passes 
through  the  place,  bordered  by  a  narrow  morass.  The 
place  in  1675,  and  for  some  time  subsequent,  was  called 
Bloody  Brook,  in  consequence  of  a  battle  which  was 
fought  with  the  Indians  on  the  18th  of  September  of  that 
year.  Capt.  Lothrop,  who  had  been  despatched  with  80 
men  and  several  teams,  to  secure  a  quantity  of  wheat  in 
Dcerficld,  two  or  three  miles  farther  north,  was  surprised 
on  his  return  through  this  place,  by  a  party  of  700  Indi- 
ans, who  had  secretly  watched  his  movements,  and  who 
lay  in  ambush  awaiting  his  arrival.  He  had  no  sooner 
crossed  the  small  stream  above  mentioned,  than  they 
rushed  upon  him,  pouring  in  such  a  deadly  fire  as  to  pro- 
duce complete  discomfiture.  Lothrop  and  his  men  fled  ; 
but  being  pursued  and  overtaken  at  all  points,  they  re- 
solved to  sell  their  lives  in  a  vigorous  struggle.  They  ac- 
cordingly posted  themselves  behind  the  neighboring  trees ; 
when  the  conflict  became  a  trial  of  skill  in  sharp  shoot- 
ing. At  length  the  struggle  terminated  in  the  annihila- 
tion of  nearly  the  wliole  of  the  English.  Lothrop  was 
killed  in  the  early  part  of  the  action  ;  and  his  loss,  inclu- 
ding  teamsters,  amounted  to  ninety.  The  troops  at  Deer- 
field,  under  Captain  Moscley,  hearing  the  musketry,  has- 


MTDDY    BROOK — I>EERPIELD. 


389 


tienrd  to  the  scene  of  combat,  and  arrived  soon  after  its 
close.  They  found  the  Indians  stripping  the  slain.  Mosc- 
ly  improving  the  favorr.blc  opportunity,  rushed  upon  them 
and  cut  them  down  in  all  directions,  driving  the  remain- 
der into  the  adjacent  swamps.  The  next  morning  it 
was  found  that  a  few  Indians  had  returned  to  the  field  of 
battle  for  the  purpose  of  plunder  ;  but  they  were  soon  dis- 
persed. 

Though  the  loss  of  the  enemy  on  the  previous  day  was 
estimated  at  about  100,  the  engagement  was,  neverthe- 
less, more  disastrous  in  its  consequences  to  the  English. 
The  destruction  of  ninety  valuable  men,  the  flower  of  a 
thinly  scattered  population,  was  calculated  to  produce 
much  despondency,  and  occasion  tiic  most  serious  appre- 
hensions for  the  safety  of  the  remaining  colonists. 

The  place  where  this  battle  was  fought  is  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  about  30  rods  south  of  the  church. 
The  bridge  over  the  stream  is  located  at  the  place  whera 
Lothrop  crossed. 

Deerfield,  3  miles  from  Muddy  Brook,  and  17  milc3 
north  of  Northampton,  is  a  handsome  village  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
very  fertile  and  beautiful  country,  presenting  a  succession 
of  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms  The  town  was 
among  the  errly  settlements  on  the  river  ;  and,  more 
than  any  other  place,  was  the  theatre  of  Indian  warfare. 
In  September,  1675,  an  attack  was  made  on  Ihe  place, 
one  man  killed,  and  several  houses  reduced  to  ashes.  For 
about  20  years  subsequent  to  this,  owing  to  repeated  in- 
cursions of  the  savages,  the  inhabitants  were  often  com- 


r 


ii 


•u 


890 


deerfielo. 


pelled  to  abandon  their  dwellings  and  seek  a  temporary 
asylum  in  the  neighboring  towns.  During  the  French 
wars  under  William  and  Anne,  however,  they  maintained 
their  ground  until  1704  ;  made  many  improvements  and 
enclopcd  the  centre  of  the  village  by  an  extensive  but 
imperfect  pallisadcd  work.  This  fortification  was  attack- 
ed by  about  3.50  French  and  Indians,  in  the  month  of 
February  of  that  year.  They  had  secretly  taken  a  po- 
sition two  miles  north  of  the  village  on  the  evening  of  the 
9th  ;  whence  they  cautiously  proceeded  to  the  fort  the 
tiext  morning  before  day.  There  Leing  no  sentinels 
posted,  the  fortification  was  easily  entered,  and  the  work 
of  destruction  commenced  ere  the  inhabitants  had  arous- 
ed from  their  slumbers.  A  feeble  resistance,  only,  could 
be  made.  All  the  houses,  except  one,  within  the  pah- 
Bades,  were  burnt  ;  between  40  and  50  of  the  inhabitants 
Were  killed,  and  112,  including  women  and  children, 
made  prisoners.  In  the  drear  of  winter,  with  a  scanty 
supply  of  provisions,  and  with  little  clothing,  the  unfortu- 
nate  captives  were  compelled  to  take  up  their  line  of 
march  for  Canada.  Mr.  Williams,  the  clergyman  of  the 
place,  and  his  family,  were  of  ho  number.  His  wife* 
was  murdered  in  two  or  three  days  after  commencing  the 
excursion  ;  and  sixteen  others  either  died  or  were  massa- 
cred before  reaching  the  Province.  Most  of  those  who 
survived,  after  remaining  in  captivity  for  some  time,  were 


*  She  was  afterwards  with  her  husband,  interred  in  the 
church-yard  at  Decrfield,  and  marble  slabs  placed  over 
their  graves. 


OEERFIELO — TURNER'S   PALLS. 


891 


nporary 
French 
ntained 
nts  and 
live  but 
i  attack- 
lonth  of 
2n  a  po- 
ig  of  the 
fort  the 
sentinels 
he  work 
d  arous- 
1}%  could 
the  pali- 
labitants 
children, 
I  scanty 
unfortu- 
,r  line  of 
in  of  the 
is  wife* 
icing  the 
e  niassa- 
losc  who 
171C,  were 


ed  in  the 
iced  over 


redeemed.  A  daughter  of  Mr.  Williams,  however,  who 
had  married  an  Indian  chief,  refused  to  return.  She  as. 
sumed  the  habiliment  of  a  savage,  and  died  in  Canada 
some  years  afterwards.  Several  of  her  descendants  arc 
still  living  there. 

Tlie  house  which  survived  the  conflagration  at  Deer- 
field  is  still  standing.  It  is  in  a  tolerable  state  of  p.cser- 
vation,  and  exhibits  to  this  day  the  pci  \>r.ition  made  in 
the  door  by  tomahawks,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  bails  in 
the  interior.  One  of  these  marks  is  shown  as  having 
been  made  by  a  ball  which  killed  a  female  in  the  house  ; 
and  in  one  of  the  timbers  a  bullet  is  seen,  which  has  nev- 
er been  extracted. 

Greenfield,  4  miles  from  Dcerfield,  is  a  large  and 
pleasant  village,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river ;  from  which 
it  is  distant  2- miles.  It  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  bank 
and  3  churches.  It  is  a  central  position  for  the  trade  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  is  a  place  of  wealth  and  en- 
terprise. 

Turner's  Falls,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  are  3  miles 
from  Greenfield,  in  a  north-easterly  direction.  The  road 
taken  in  visiting  them  is  east  of  the  ordinary  stage  route  ;. 
and  it  is  customary  therefore,  after  an  excursion  to  the 
falls,  to  return  to  Greenfield.  The  route  is  principally- 
over  the  ground  taken  by  Capt.  Turner,  in  his  attack  on 
the  Indians  in  1676.  Tlic  fall  is  between  forty  and  fifty 
feet ;  but  by  the  erection  of  a  dam  for  the  accommodation 
of  a  canalt  the  cataract  has  lost  much  of  its  original  wild- 
ness. 

The  Indians,  arr^ounting  to  several  hundreds,  having 
taken  a  position  on  elevated  ground,  on  the  west  bank  of 


» 


■lii 


I 


392 


turner's  falls. 


i 


the  river  at  the  head  of  the  fall,  it  was  deemed  important 
to  dislodge  them.  This  service  was  undertaken  by  Capt. 
Turner,  at  the  head  of  about  1  GO  mounted  troops.  He 
left  Hatfield  on  the  17th  of  May,  JG76,  and  reached 
within  half  a  mile  of  tho  Indian  encampment  before  day 
the  next  morning  without  discovery.  Here  his  men  left 
their  horses,  and  by  a  rapid  march,  reached  the  camp  be- 
fore  the  Indians  awoke  from  their  slumbers.  A  deadly 
and  destructive  fire  was  immediately  commenced.  Be- 
lieving it  to  proceed  from  their  ancient  and  powerful  ene- 
my the  Mohawks,  many  of  the  Indians  fled  to  the  river, 
and  leaped  into  their  canoes;  but,  in  attempting  to  cross, 
they  were  mostly  shot  or  precipitated  over  the  cataract. 
Others  fled  to  the  rocks  of  the  river  bank,  where  they 
were  (iut  down  without  resistance  ;  and  few  escaped  the 
victorious  arms  of  the  assailants.  One  hundred  were  left 
dead  on  the  fi  .Id  ;  one  hundred  and  forty  were  seen  to 
-descend  the  cataract  ;  and  their  whole  loss  was  after- 
wards ascertained  to  have  been  300.  Turner  lost  but 
one  man. 

In  his  retreat  he  was  less  fortunate.  He  was  attacked 
by  other  parties  of  Indians  on  the  route — his  men  divi- 
*<ded — himself  killed  ;  and  the  loss  of  his  party,  before 
they  reached  Hatfield,  amounted  to  between  30  and  40. 
•Capt.  T.  is  supposed  to  have  fallen  in  what  is  called 
Greenfield  Meadow,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  on 
which  a  mill  now  stands  ;  as  his  body  w^as  afterwards 
found  at  that  place  by  a  scouting  party  of  the  English. 

Bernardstown,  5  miles  north  of  Greenfield. 


, 


7 


VERNON — CIIARLESTOWIf. 


393 


nportant 
by  Capt. 
ips.  He 
reached 
fore  day 
men  left 
;amp  be- 
L  deadly 
ed.  Be- 
irful  ene- 
ihc  river, 
to  cross, 
cataract, 
ere  they 
aped  the 
were  left 

seen  to 
as  after. 

lost  but 

attacked 
nen  divi- 
y^  before 

and  40. 
s  called 
cam,  on 

erwards 
Sflish. 


Vernon,  6  miles  ;  the  first  town  reached  in  entering 
the  state  of  Vermont.  Fort  Dummer,  built  to  protect  the 
inhabitants  against  the  Indians,  was  located  at  this  place 

Guilford,  5  miles.  Here  are  two  slate  quarries  and 
several  mills  and  manufactones. 

BRATTLEBOROuriii,  G  milcs,  a  flourishing  village,  is  lo- 
cated on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river  ;  over 
which  their  is  a  permanent  bridge.  White  stone  creek 
also  passes  through  the  place,  affording  a  number  of  good 
mill  sites.  The  village  contains  a  bank,  the  most  extcn- 
siue  printin[i^  establishment  in  the  state,  and  several  man- 
ufactories.  Stages  pass  daily  between  this  place  and 
Boston,  Hartford,  Albany  and  Hanover. 

DuMMERSTON,  5  milcs. 

Putney,  5  miles. 

Westminster,  5  miles.  The  first  newspaper  printed 
in  Vermont  was  issued  from  a  press  at  this  place  ;  though 
it  was  discontinued  several  years  since  for  want  of  pat- 
ronage. The  village  is  located  on  a  beautiful  plain  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  ;  but  it  has  not  improved 
much  within  the  last  twenty  years. 

Walpole,  N.  H.  to  which  a  bridge  leads,  is  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river,  and  is  noticed  at  pag**,  303. 

Bellows  Falls,  on  the  Vermont  side,  4  miles  from 
W^alpolc.  {See  p.  302.)  Proceeding  up  the  river  over  a 
beautiful  plain, 

Charlestown,  N.  H.  is  reached  in  travelling  8  miles 
from  Bellows  Falls.  It  is  handsomely  located  on  tb«^ 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  is  a  neat  village,  containing  a 
co^t  house,  jail  and  bank. 


i 

I 


■n- 


"** 


m 


'  cttktitxSTown. 


1 


A  fort  was  built  for  the  defence  of  Ihiii  place  in  T743, 
on  rising. ground  south  of  the  church,  over  which  the  pr^ 
sent  street  passes.  In  March,  1747,  while  the  fort  was 
occupied  by  Capt.  Stevens  and  thirty  men,  a  furious  as- 
sault  was  made  upon  it  by  a  large  body  of  French  and 
Indians,  under  the  command  of  M.  Debcline.  The  fort 
being  composed  of  materials  which  were  combustible,  the 
enemy  attempted  its  destruction  by  setting  a  log  house 
and  the  fences  to  the  windward  on  fire.  To  guard 
against  a  conflagration,  the  besieged,  through  great  ex- 
ertions, succeeded  in  making  several  subterranean  pas- 
sages under  the  parapet,  with  an  opening  at  the  top  of 
each.  From  ihcse  passages,  which  were  deep  enough  to 
protect  the  men  from  the  enemy's  ^^hot,  water,  taken  from 
a  well  within  tiic  fort,  was  thrown  upon  the  parapet,  and 
the  plan  of  the  enemy  frustrated.  A  sort  of  mantelet, 
loaded  with  dry  faggots,  set  on  fire,  was  then  forced  to- 
wards the  fort,  accompanied  with  flaming  arrows ;  but  all 
to  no  purpose.  Stevens  maintained  iiis  position,  continu. 
ed  a  fire  upon  the  enemy  whenever  he  presented  himself, 
and  refused  all  propositions  of  a  surrender.  After  an  as- 
sault of  three  days,  and  suflTering  severely  in  the  loss  of 
•his  men,  Debellne  withdrev/  from  the  siege.  None  of  Ste- 
vens'  men  we're  killed,  and  but  two  wounded. 

For  this  brave  defence,  Sir  Charles  Knowles,  comman- 
dant of  a  naval  force  then  in  Boston  harbor,  sent  Captain 
Stevens  an  elegant  sword.  The  town  was  subsequently 
named  in  honor  of  Sir  Charles.       4 

From  Charlestown  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily  for  Sar- 
atoga Springs,  passing  through  Chester,  Manchester,  inc.; 


1. 


s  in  1743, 

h  the  pre- 

B  fort  wa« 

urious  as. 

cp.ch  and 

The  fort 

stiblc,  th« 

log  house 

Fo  guard 

great  cx- 

mcan  pa<;- 

the  top  of 

snough  to 

aiken  from 

apet,  and 

mantelet, 

forced  to- 

;  but  all 

continu- 

d  himself, 

er  an  as- 

le  loss  of 

ne  of  St€- 

comman- 
Captain 
sequently 

for  Sar- 
iter,  &<c.; 


w 


iPRINOFIELD— HANdVrR. 


395 


OT  for  Boston,  passing  through  Walpolc,  Kccnc,  &c.  {See 
p.  301  ^o306.)  .  •* 

Springfield,  Vt.  on  the  west  side  of  tlic  river.  5  miles 
from  Charlestown. 

Weathersfield,  6  miles ;  a  fine  agricultural  town- 
ship. Jarvis'  farm,  at  what  is  termed  VVcalhcrsficld  Bow 
(a  turn  in  the  river)  is  considered  one  of  the  best  in  Ver- 
mont. -'*:' 

Windsor,  7  miles.    (See  p.  310.) 

HartlaxNd,  7  milesr 

Hartford,  7  miles.  There  arc  two  handsome  villager 
in  this  town  ;  one  near  the  junction  o^  the  White  river, 
and  the  other  near  the  junction  of  the  Queechy  river 
w^ith  the  Connecticut.  In  both  there  are  several  mills 
and  manufactories.    From  Hartford  the  river  is  crossed  to 

Hanover,  (noticed  at  p.  31 1 ,)  from  which  place  a  stago^ 
may  be  taken  daily  for  Burlington,  Vt.  or  Boston. 


a"» 


i     • 


'  •  ■-.»!^?^v■.i. 


■» 

k 


FI  WIS 


'■■J 


i 


•;*■    • 


•      * 


♦        # 


♦  tiT . 


*« 


